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Thread: 2L-TE head cracking issue

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    Exclamation 2L-TE head cracking issue


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    Yes.

    Use thermostat.. keep cooling system clean and use Coolant

    Use an Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) gauge to monitor the exhaust temperatures and keep EGT within safe below 1200F range. An aftermarket temperature gauge will also help in registering degree changes in coolant temperature.. the temp needle at the dash usually raises when damage has been done!
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    Quote Originally Posted by akifjanjua View Post
    Yes.

    Use thermostat.. keep cooling system clean and use Coolant

    Use an Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) gauge to monitor the exhaust temperatures and keep EGT within safe below 1200F range. An aftermarket temperature gauge will also help in registering degree changes in coolant temperature.. the temp needle at the dash usually raises when damage has been done!
    thanks akif bahi thats mean its full time monitoring

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    Quote Originally Posted by akifjanjua View Post
    Yes.

    Use thermostat.. keep cooling system clean and use Coolant

    Use an Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) gauge to monitor the exhaust temperatures and keep EGT within safe below 1200F range. An aftermarket temperature gauge will also help in registering degree changes in coolant temperature.. the temp needle at the dash usually raises when damage has been done!
    @akifjanjua

    Akif please mention where the EGT should be installed...in exhaust manifold before Turbo charger or after Turbo charger....what kind of difference can we expect in the temp reading
    -

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    @hsumbal1

    Ideally EGT probe should be installed Pre Turbo.. just where exhaust gasses from all 4/6 cylinders meet and feed the turbo. However, out of fear of probe breaking and destroying the turbo, ppl do install it after the turbo.. the temperature reading is 200-300F lower after turbo as much heat is dissipated from turbo

    I hav been using a kisi kaam ki nai EGT that doesnt even work.. got it from lahore.. its very low quality.. installed it pre turbo and the tip hasn't broken off yet So i am sure the probability of a good EGT gauge's probe tip breaking off is pretty low

    My recommendation install EGT Probe Pre-turbo
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    I would think an EGT Guage is an expensive toy and is not needed unless its for performance or racing etc. On a 2LT adding an engine oil cooler works very well in my experience in helping keep the engine cool and preventing any head damage. Nevertheless, if the cooling system is working well and the turbo is not over boosted, there is no reason for the head going off unless there is some other factor at play.
    "If YOU don't believe in what you're doing it'll never work."

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    Quote Originally Posted by SuhaibKiani View Post
    I would think an EGT Guage is an expensive toy and is not needed unless its for performance or racing etc. On a 2LT adding an engine oil cooler works very well in my experience in helping keep the engine cool and preventing any head damage. Nevertheless, if the cooling system is working well and the turbo is not over boosted, there is no reason for the head going off unless there is some other factor at play.
    sir the thing Marked in this picture called engine oil cooler
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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    yes! These ones are I believe off of a Shahzore. Pajero ones are also readily available
    "If YOU don't believe in what you're doing it'll never work."

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    @SuhaibKiani sb for such detailed answer
    thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by salmanzahid View Post
    is there any way or precaution to save 2L-TE from head cracking issue ??
    The easiest way is to keep the cooling system in top condition and never remove the thermostat valve. These systems come equipped with a bypass and if the thermostat is missing, the hot water just keeps circulating in the galleys without passing through the radiator. You may want to use a thermostat with a cooler opening temperature. If you know your way around a multimeter or have access to OEM resistors for the injection pump, you can use a higher value on the timing resistor to advance the injection timing by a reasonable bit. I had a chart at hand that listed resistor values and corresponding advance, will share if I can find it. People on international forums say that these engines come with retarded injection timing for NOx emissions standards and to compensate for the resulting loss in power, are over fueled; more diesel and a retarded timing is a great mix for sky rocketing EGTs and cracked heads. You could also intercool the charge to the engine which coupled with timing advance should yield great results both with power and lowered EGTs. However, you must be careful to not go commando with timing advance since lowering the EGTs inversely affects turbo spool up i.e. increases turbo lag. Also, a cast iron head from a metallurgical point of view should get stronger over the years since the 'fault lines' move outwards while being 'heat treated' during use. So a head that hasn't cracked already has a lesser chance of doing that if you do the aforesaid.
    Flat six flattening things out!

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    Quote Originally Posted by SuhaibKiani View Post
    I would think an EGT Guage is an expensive toy and is not needed unless its for performance or racing etc. On a 2LT adding an engine oil cooler works very well in my experience in helping keep the engine cool and preventing any head damage. Nevertheless, if the cooling system is working well and the turbo is not over boosted, there is no reason for the head going off unless there is some other factor at play.
    Oil coolers can at best only be a tertiary line of defense since the head does not have oil flow in amounts significant enough to help with cooling. The head only cracks here because of the nature of the material used i.e. cast iron and a combination of deteriorated cooling systems, retarded IP timing and too much fuel from factory. Coupled together, these factors create localized 'hot spots' at points that run hottest i.e. around valve seats/combustion chambers and the temperature differential from surrounding 'cool' points is enough to exploit the metals nature i.e. cracking instead of warping.
    Flat six flattening things out!

  12. 23-07-2014, 01:34 PM

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    Best is to make sure that cooling lines are not scaled and obstructive. I have faced a cracked head on a 3C-TE already. Use Toyota red coolant once you are sure that lines are clean. Rest of the advices given are all valid of course. Just added my 2 cents.
    Keep a cool head and wear seatbelts!

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    @spectra

    Please share your experience with EGT gauge.. how easily EGT shoots up on climbs etc

    Quote Originally Posted by spectra View Post
    Best is to make sure that cooling lines are not scaled and obstructive. I have faced a cracked head on a 3C-TE already. Use Toyota red coolant once you are sure that lines are clean. Rest of the advices given are all valid of course. Just added my 2 cents.
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    EGT on 3C-TE (Estima Lucida) which has regulated fuel supply supposedly goes above 600c easily on sightly hard acceleration with AC on. on Climbs, it touches 700c easily. The max i have seen at a speed of 165 was 770c. The gauge is from Depo racing and is accurate. Anything above 650 can be problematic. I dont kmow if 2L will behave the same or not. Having an EGT helps with adjusting diesel supply and youc an strike a blance between economy and power very precisely based on readings. I do not have that luxury because of EFI although i am an old timer and like playing around with old school diesels
    Keep a cool head and wear seatbelts!

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    sir first of all thanks to you all Experts to giving me such good information
    @SuhaibKiani @akifjanjua @HamzahF @spectra

    my question is that daily we see many 2l-TE pardo's 5 door and 3 door surf /Hilux's on road they all have doing such carefully monitoring with fear any time head will be cracked ?

    one thing more 2l-te head crack issue is so popular but still people buying 2L-TE engines and swapped them in jeeps and market is also full of 2LT surfs and pardo,s

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    Not many of the vehocles which came with a 2L either got swapped or they changed the head from a 3L. In like last 10 years I havent seen a factory spec 2L or one without alterations or a head crack incident. Those few who are still running it make sure they are using appropriate coolants and maintenance is up to date.
    Keep a cool head and wear seatbelts!

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    Offtopic: 2lte is underpowered engine and one day or the other it will blow its head and when you have to care for stuff it takes away the fun. Better to buy vehicle which does not have 2lt or swap in something else.
    RIP

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    Quote Originally Posted by HamzahF View Post
    Oil coolers can at best only be a tertiary line of defense .....
    That is correct but having an oil cooler gives you sort of an extra half a chance to catch something that is going wrong. In most cases, that extra chance is all you need to get home with a leaked radiator pipe or a fan problem etc and spare yourself a steaming hood and a cracked head.

    Basically any turbo diesel engine is a ticking time bomb when you spike up diesel timing, delivery and / or turbo pressure without any other upgrades. The 2LT being a small engine with a relatively big turbo has all that much more rope to hang yourself with. You will come across very few 2LTEs with head crack issues as there is little tinkering that can be done with the electronic pump. On the mechanical pumps, even when diesel pump timing / fuelling is calibrated to normal / factory standards by our local diesel lab techs & mechanics, it actually is at moderate to sufficiently advanced levels. Add an AC and our summer ambient temps and going for a motorway drive pushing 130 kmph is quite a nice a recipe for disaster.

    In the end I would think that along with everything above, the best prevention for a cracked head on a 2LT is to ensure that the engine timing and fuelling is at factory standards, which in local lingo normally means to retard the damn thing. You don't lose all that much power and acceleration and it will help you make the dinosaur last a while longer! All the best!
    "If YOU don't believe in what you're doing it'll never work."

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    very nice discussion, and very technically informative

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    At long last, a thread to which I, a diesel dinosaur, can relate. All you guys are very experienced and technically and technologically adept - to say the least.

    I have a Jeep M170 which has hada Toyota 2LT in it for the past 13 years. I bought the engine from Shersha Kabari market in 2001 Jan, and except for one year (well eleven months in 2004), I have used it nearly everyday ever since. And I finally rebuilt it in Sept/Oct 2013. The credit for which largely goes to Suhaib Kiani. (He convinced me to rebuild the engine rather than putting another one in).

    My experience, with this engine so far has been that if one's cooling system is fine, and you dont tweak around the fuel pump too much, it well serve you reliably well, like a sturdy mule. It doesnt have tones of power like a 1KZ-TE does, but it usually has enough power to get your out of four wheeling trouble if drive it right. The Toyota 2L-TE is I feel a more powerful engine, but the saada non-EFI 2LT isnt too bad either and has good fuel economy too.

    The most notorious of the L series engines, in my opinion, is the 3L. Nearly everyone I know who swapped a 3L in his Jeep cursed it, because it invariably cracked heads. One friend went through 3 heads and two engine, before he finally swapped a 1KZ-TE.

    I might be wrong about the 3L, but in either case, I would like to hear your views on it.

    Last but not the least, has anyone here tried boring out a 3L block to accomodate 5L pistons? (In effect, rebuild a 2800cc 3L into a 3000 cc 5L). Is it worth the time and money? Do the gains, if any, justify the effort?

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