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Thread: A rarely discussed topic - bike engine seals

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    Unhappy A rarely discussed topic - bike engine seals

    Salam all. I want to discuss something that I have not seen on previous threads on PWs. Last year I went to muree on my cg125 classic 2008. One week after I came back the bike's engine oil started leaking from the left side. I had the seals changed from my local mechanic. 4 months later the seals again gave way and this time I got them changed from another mechanic. Now after 3 months again engine oil was dripping from left side. But this time I thought to buy original seals from a honda 5s dealer. Today when I went to change the seals the mechanic said that these seals will not fit your bike. He said your bike is old and you need over sized seals. The bike was already open so I had no option but to go with his seals. He says seals break after 5 to 6 months and that is normal in all bikes.
    I want to ask following questions:
    1. is there something called oversized seals? do older bikes have different seal sizes?
    2. is it normal to change engine seals after 5 or 6 months? This is the first time someone has said this to me!
    3. I asked a couple of other mechanics in my area and one said when bike gets very hot seals break and the other said if you wash your bike while it is hot then seals will break. Are they right?

    Brothers I have very busy schedule and I am very fed up with this engine leaking. Kindly suggest a remedy. If my mechanic was lying about oversized seals then I am never going to him again.
    I am hoping that all bike riders would give their opinion.


  2. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by asjdsm View Post
    haha dial guage tho kharadiya ka paas bhi mnahi hoga,,,,anyhow,, the way u outlined is proper way but unfortunately it is not practised,,
    all good machinists have dial gauges - I used to get mine balanced on a regular lathe with a tyre tube going through the connecting rod small end to prevent it flapping about, hook dial gauge to machine and rest its pointer on the axle after first roughing it up with a copper hammer.

    I had an old RX115 yamaha, and I'll tell you how i balanced the crank.

    individually polish the crank wheels on a crankpolish tool so there is no runout on the dial gauge, next assemble the crankshaft assy and use late setting bearing lock solution (loctite or loxeal yellow bearingloc) Now we have 30 minutes before the solution hardens.

    Now mount the crank on V blocks positioned on a true flat surface (machinists also have a true flat). mount the dial gauge on the V block foot and spin the crank by watching the dial gauge, use a copper hammer to align as required. Once done and the bearingloc locks the crankpin - you will experience a smooth running crank.

    On a 2 stroke do not use a hammer to drive the crankshaft onto the main bearing, use a puller or press to draw it in. Similarly drive the bearing onto the crankwheel of a 4 stroke by supporting the individual crankwheel.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by asjdsm View Post
    یار جب میکینک حظرات ایک پراپر ٹول کی بجائے ہتوڑی اور پیچکس استمعال کرتے ہیں تو سیل کی جہگیں ٹیڑی میڑی ہو جاتی ہیں ۔ ۔۔۔
    اور جب وہ ہتوڑا استمعال کرتے ہیں تو مجے سخت غصہ آتا ہے ان پر۔۔۔
    لیکن کیا کریں ۔۔ کتے کی دم سو سال کینجو تب بھی ٹھیڑی ہی رہتی ہے۔۔
    I dont think that this tool is expensive - must cost 50 paisas i think..
    A rarely discussed topic - bike engine seals - 5138201hr

    screw into oil seal and use a set of pliers to pull seal out
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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