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Thread: Petrol Saving Strategies

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    Default Petrol Saving Strategies

    1. If you see a bike’s specification there will be a section about the vehicle’s torque @ certain rpm. Torque denotes the pulling force that the vehicle can offer at that particular engine speed. Every engine has certain rpm range where it can offer maximum torque. Try to keep below that range (not too low) so that you don’t burn a lot of fuel.
    2. Clutch riding / half clutch tends to wear out the clutch facing quickly. This considerably reduces the power transmitted from the engine. Some adjust the play to half clutch owing to the reason that it is easier to drive in slow moving traffic, but they won’t realize that they are doing it at the cost of frequent fuel refills and clutch replacement.
    3. Selection of appropriate gear is mandatory. Under-gearing / over-gearing are not good friends of fuel economy. Riding in higher gears at very low speeds (by clutch partially engaged) and lower gears at high speeds tends to draw more fuel. So don’t hesitate to shift gears appropriately.
    4. Starting earlier to work/college will also help saving fuel indirectly. As the peak hour approaches the traffic density increases and it demands frequent stops and crawling speed. So why waste your precious time and fuel?
    5. Always ensure that your vehicle’s transmission is sufficiently lubricated. This is because if there is more friction between the parts the engine will draw more fuel to compensate your speed demand. Also friction is not healthy exercise to the parts.
    6. The engine can not only be used for moving the vehicle but also to slow it down. This is called engine braking When the throttle is released only idling amount of fuel will be supplied to engine and the power will be transmitted from wheels to the engine. Thus the vehicle slows down due to the resistance offered by the engine. There are some places to use this phenomenon like when you are about to stop for an obstacle which is say some 10-50 meters (Note: this range depends on your speed) ahead of you just release the throttle rather than breaking hard near it and let the ‘engine braking’ work its magic (can also be employed in slow moving traffic). You can also down shift if you need to. This thereby reduces unwanted fuel consumption and also saves brakes from wearing out.
    7. Don’t have your head lamps turned unnecessarily ON which in turn demands more fuel by the engine to charge the battery/run the alternator. Unwanted electrical accessories can also be avoided.
    8. Make sure that your vehicle’s idling speed is set as per the manufacturer’s specification. If set higher intakes excess fuel during idling and if set lower engine tends to stall frequently this in turn needs richer mixture to start the vehicle.
    9. At times when you have to wait in a traffic signal for more than 30 secs switch OFF your engine. If you have self starter try alternating between kick starter also to avoid heavy load acting on battery frequently.
    10. Above all these maintain a log book about your fuel refills, type of journey distance covered per journey (even if it is very short), fuel consumption per liter to know about your driving performance so that you can improve further.


    Adapted from bikeadvice.in

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/122285329@N03/

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tabi_hawk View Post
    1. If you see a bike’s specification there will be a section about the vehicle’s torque @ certain rpm. Torque denotes the pulling force that the vehicle can offer at that particular engine speed. Every engine has certain rpm range where it can offer maximum torque. Try to keep below that range (not too low) so that you don’t burn a lot of fuel.
    2. Clutch riding / half clutch tends to wear out the clutch facing quickly. This considerably reduces the power transmitted from the engine. Some adjust the play to half clutch owing to the reason that it is easier to drive in slow moving traffic, but they won’t realize that they are doing it at the cost of frequent fuel refills and clutch replacement.
    3. Selection of appropriate gear is mandatory. Under-gearing / over-gearing are not good friends of fuel economy. Riding in higher gears at very low speeds (by clutch partially engaged) and lower gears at high speeds tends to draw more fuel. So don’t hesitate to shift gears appropriately.
    4. Starting earlier to work/college will also help saving fuel indirectly. As the peak hour approaches the traffic density increases and it demands frequent stops and crawling speed. So why waste your precious time and fuel?
    5. Always ensure that your vehicle’s transmission is sufficiently lubricated. This is because if there is more friction between the parts the engine will draw more fuel to compensate your speed demand. Also friction is not healthy exercise to the parts.
    6. The engine can not only be used for moving the vehicle but also to slow it down. This is called engine braking When the throttle is released only idling amount of fuel will be supplied to engine and the power will be transmitted from wheels to the engine. Thus the vehicle slows down due to the resistance offered by the engine. There are some places to use this phenomenon like when you are about to stop for an obstacle which is say some 10-50 meters (Note: this range depends on your speed) ahead of you just release the throttle rather than breaking hard near it and let the ‘engine braking’ work its magic (can also be employed in slow moving traffic). You can also down shift if you need to. This thereby reduces unwanted fuel consumption and also saves brakes from wearing out.
    7. Don’t have your head lamps turned unnecessarily ON which in turn demands more fuel by the engine to charge the battery/run the alternator. Unwanted electrical accessories can also be avoided.
    8. Make sure that your vehicle’s idling speed is set as per the manufacturer’s specification. If set higher intakes excess fuel during idling and if set lower engine tends to stall frequently this in turn needs richer mixture to start the vehicle.
    9. At times when you have to wait in a traffic signal for more than 30 secs switch OFF your engine. If you have self starter try alternating between kick starter also to avoid heavy load acting on battery frequently.
    10. Above all these maintain a log book about your fuel refills, type of journey distance covered per journey (even if it is very short), fuel consumption per liter to know about your driving performance so that you can improve further.


    Adapted from bikeadvice.in
    I agree to all of them bro nice sharing but there is a little bit of confusion about "Don’t have your head lamps turned unnecessarily ON which in turn demands more fuel by the engine to charge the battery/run the alternator. Unwanted electrical accessories can also be avoided."

    Some MOTORCYCLE WELFARE ORGANIZATIONS say that its a good idea to keep light on in daytime.

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    these are good tips ,, but tip 7 is causing confusion,,
    because electricity is generated from changing magnetic filed (force) which is created by magnetto flywheel which is picked by the coil,, the fly wheel always rotates at crank speed,, in other words its always rotating no matter u make use of it or not,,


    apart from above things
    always make sure to use a proper type of filter and chane at proper time..
    make sure carb is tuned properly according to elevation,, it has huge difference,,a motorcycle properly tuned for 500 m above sea level wont perform at 2000 m above sea level,, the mixture is ver rich so fuel is not only wasted but poewr is also reduced,, to chek if u r on proper mixture check the condition of the spark plug..

    make sure to use a good quality ngk spark plug and precisely gaped,,,

    use good quality fuel

    always ride in the economy speed indicated on bike meter and use aas tall gear as possible,,

    check both wheels for proper rotation and alignment

    make sure chain is properly adjusted and lubricated,,,

    make sure all nuts and bollts are tight,, esp in the path of air / fuel intake side,,

    avoid frequent use of clutch ,, most people ride in high gear with a bit high revs in traffic congestion and use clutch to avoid bike from stalling,, this is not good instead use lower gear say first and avoid clutch to maximum posible extent, this way u would be ensuring to get most use of power generated,, because when u pull the clutch lever power is wasted,,

    if ur engine is old,, do a compression test and if there is a reasonable loss of compression try to solve it as early as possible,,

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    well said..
    I would add, Do NOT think of smoking others when the traffic signal goes green (off course, if and only if you want to save fuel and money).

    my 50 cents!

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackzero_01 View Post
    well said..
    I would add, Do NOT think of smoking others when the traffic signal goes green (off course, if and only if you want to save fuel and money).

    my 50 cents!
    Your 2 Cents, I believe
    Talk to The Hand =;

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    Quote Originally Posted by asjdsm View Post
    these are good tips ,, but tip 7 is causing confusion,,
    because electricity is generated from changing magnetic filed (force) which is created by magnetto flywheel which is picked by the coil,, the fly wheel always rotates at crank speed,, in other words its always rotating no matter u make use of it or not,,
    you are wrong and it matter
    i explain it when magnetto flywheel rotates it generates Magnetic flux this fulx excites stationary (stator) winding and then AC generates ,with rectifier it converts to DC and then a DC charger charges the battery so how you can say it does not matter it takes mechnical power(rotainal)
    a RX115 megnetto has 4 pole magnetto flywheel and a single winding it generates 12v on 2500rpm and 14v on 8000 rpm and 1.4amp current to charge 12v battery and 6amp on 8000rpm.RX115 generator has capability to 146watts .it raelly consumes power coz 1 hp=746 watts and charging a 12 v battery on 6apm current it takes 72watts ...
    i think you can calculate exact power now which is taken from crank.

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    Quote Originally Posted by YamahaYB100 View Post
    you are wrong and it matter
    i explain it when magnetto flywheel rotates it generates Magnetic flux this fulx excites stationary (stator) winding and then AC generates ,with rectifier it converts to DC and then a DC charger charges the battery so how you can say it does not matter it takes mechnical power(rotainal)
    a RX115 megnetto has 4 pole magnetto flywheel and a single winding it generates 12v on 2500rpm and 14v on 8000 rpm and 1.4amp current to charge 12v battery and 6amp on 8000rpm.RX115 generator has capability to 146watts .it raelly consumes power coz 1 hp=746 watts and charging a 12 v battery on 6apm current it takes 72watts ...
    i think you can calculate exact power now which is taken from crank.

    the magnetto always rotates generating flux,, the flux is then used by the stator to create current,, now if u use it or not the flywheel is rotating,, so the mechanical side is always at work irrespective of whether the electrical side converts it into electrical work,,, so the only thing that i can imagine to consume more fuel is to put the load/frictio on the flywheel,, since there is no mechanical friction from electrical side the only friction i see is the magnetic which is pushed through the coils, but this is so tiny that it can hardly be cconsidered ,,
    practically switching lights off would have almost zero effect on fuel consumption.


    more over i think all the coils are not for one thing,, some are for charging battery,,some for ignition,, some for lightening ,,
    but expert comments are needed on both points,,

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    moreover when we talk of new technology we should also think in termas of efficiency
    and these are the technologies that honda has for bikes which needs to be implemented in local honda bikes,,

    Honda idling stop
    Honda Worldwide | Motorcycle Picture Book | Idling Stop System
    Honda Worldwide | Motorcycle Picture Book | Idling Stop System

    fuel injection pgm-fi

    for more honda innovations check this site
    Honda Worldwide | Motorcycle Picture Book

    and this
    http://world.honda.com/motorcycle-technology/

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    Quote Originally Posted by asjdsm View Post

    the magnetto always rotates generating flux,, the flux is then used by the stator to create current,, now if u use it or not the flywheel is rotating,, so the mechanical side is always at work irrespective of whether the electrical side converts it into electrical work,,, so the only thing that i can imagine to consume more fuel is to put the load/frictio on the flywheel,, since there is no mechanical friction from electrical side the only friction i see is the magnetic which is pushed through the coils, but this is so tiny that it can hardly be cconsidered ,,
    practically switching lights off would have almost zero effect on fuel consumption.


    more over i think all the coils are not for one thing,, some are for charging battery,,some for ignition,, some for lightening ,,
    but expert comments are needed on both points,,
    o bhai off light par koi load nahin but jo cdi aor iginition coil chal rahi hai usy to current chahiye k nahin jab light off hoti hain to us time pick up coil aor source coil main current generate hote hai jis se cdi aor bike ki iginition coil chalti hai..
    isi liye jab bike main battery na bhi tu bike kiase start hoti hai?
    inhi coils main jo current generate hota hai usi ki wajaha se.

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    Quote Originally Posted by asjdsm View Post

    the magnetto always rotates generating flux,, the flux is then used by the stator to create current,, now if u use it or not the flywheel is rotating,, so the mechanical side is always at work irrespective of whether the electrical side converts it into electrical work,,,,
    kabhi generator dekha hai us main bhi ek side par alternator laga hota hai tu kya us main alternator ka koi load nahin hota?
    jab alternator par load dalta hai tu wo bhi zaida petrol us karta hai agar wo bina load k start khara rahe tu kam petrol use kare ga

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    Quote Originally Posted by asjdsm View Post

    more over i think all the coils are not for one thing,, some are for charging battery,,some for ignition,, some for lightening ,,
    but expert comments are needed on both points,,
    3 coils hoti hai 1 pick up coil. 2 for battery charger 3 source coil

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    Quote Originally Posted by asjdsm View Post

    since there is no mechanical friction from electrical side the only friction i see is the magnetic which is pushed through the coils, but this is so tiny that it can hardly be cconsidered
    @asjdsm
    aap kaise keh rahe ho k electrical side se koi load nahin parta ?
    kabhi Electromagnetism sutdy kiya hai pehle parho phir baat karo maine parha hai

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    Quote Originally Posted by YamahaYB100 View Post
    @asjdsm
    aap kaise keh rahe ho k electrical side se koi load nahin parta ?
    kabhi Electromagnetism sutdy kiya hai pehle parho phir baat karo maine parha hai
    Everyone here has studied the physics of INTERMEDIATE level. So no need to get emotional

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver_Knife View Post
    Everyone here has studied the physics of INTERMEDIATE level. So no need to get emotional
    ok but bhai agar koi sahi baat kahe tu kisi ki baat bhi man leni chahiye..

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    Quote Originally Posted by YamahaYB100 View Post
    ok but bhai agar koi sahi baat kahe tu kisi ki baat bhi man leni chahiye..
    Iam not much of the physics guy, let the asjdsm come and clear the matters himself, i was just referring to the fact that your way of discussion is very rude. Hope you understand

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver_Knife View Post
    Iam not much of the physics guy, let the asjdsm come and clear the matters himself, i was just referring to the fact that your way of discussion is very rude. Hope you understand
    i am not rude i just talk straightforward and sorry if i hurt you and the last post was not for you..it is for asjdsm

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver_Knife View Post


    Some MOTORCYCLE WELFARE ORGANIZATIONS say that its a good idea to keep light on in daytime.
    No need to be so sarcastic about it, wearing bright colored clothing and leaving motorcycle headlamp on even in daylight are considered some of the standard riding safety features and are taught in riding schools all over the world.
    It isnt going to save enough fuel to compromise safety anyway.
    I work only because it pays for three F's. Food for me, Fuel for my bike and Film for my camera.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lovebikes View Post
    No need to be so sarcastic about it, wearing bright colored clothing and leaving motorcycle headlamp on even in daylight are considered some of the standard riding safety features and are taught in riding schools all over the world.
    It isnt going to save enough fuel to compromise safety anyway.
    With all due respect SIR:

    There is nothing SARCASTIC in my post. I was just quoting a point that in order to have safety ride you have to drop this point for fuel efficiency. Everybody is ready for criticism instead of understanding the point of discussion. Hope you understand what i tried to said

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver_Knife View Post
    With all due respect SIR:

    There is nothing SARCASTIC in my post. I was just quoting a point that in order to have safety ride you have to drop this point for fuel efficiency. Everybody is ready for criticism instead of understanding the point of discussion. Hope you understand what i tried to said
    Ok. I hope no hard feelings.
    I work only because it pays for three F's. Food for me, Fuel for my bike and Film for my camera.

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    c'monf fellows,,
    its nice to discuss the things,, i think it more of electric machines topic? generators?

    @YamahaYB100

    so whats ur take on the original question..
    does it affects fuel avg? if yes how much? negligible or considerable?

    my take is no,,in fact it has such a minor effect that one cant even consider it,, though i cant quantify it,, my reason would be that in post 7.

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