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Thread: Synthetic Vs Mineral Engine oil for Motorcycles ?

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    Default Synthetic Vs Mineral Engine oil for Motorcycles ?

    Hi
    of late i have been reading about engine oils .. mostly we use havline api-sg 10w50 .. in our bikes .. which is mineral oil..

    now there are various engine oils which are semi or fully synthetic ..like shell ax 5 and ax7 ..

    kia kissi na use kia ha koi synthetic ?

    i have red too much good about synthetic oils ..
    Please Share ur experience..

    Thanks


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    Quote Originally Posted by munnapk89 View Post
    Bhayya, mine 100cc needs 0.6litre engine (transmission) oil. And if the oil level increases, it may indicate symptoms like overheating the engine.

    2 and 4 strokes cannot be compared in terms of oil capacity.4 strokes completes combustion in 4 steps and 2 stroke 2..So there are many aspects todiscuss

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    @devilkreed
    Thanks for explaining, I have some idea about that but plz explain how 20w-40 of a car oil is different from bike?
    Do u know about these SL, SM grades?

    Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2

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    API-SN (Introduced October 2010)
    Category SM were introduced in October 2010 for 2011 and older vehicles, designed to provide improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons, more stringent sludge control, and seal compatibility. API SN with Resource Conserving matches ILSAC GF-5 by combining API SN performance with improved fuel economy, turbocharger protection, emission control system compatibility, and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85

    For bikes=Not recommended//Resource conserving oil have extra additives which hamper bike's lubrication in the long run,,also added friction modifiers cause wet clutch slippage(not recommended for Jap scooters)


    API-SM (Introduced on 30 November 2004)
    Category SM oils are designed to provide improved oxidation resistance, improved deposit protection, better wear protection, and better low-temperature performance over the life of the oil. Some SM oils may also meet the latest ILSAC specification and/or qualify as Energy Conserving. They may be used where API Service Category SJ and SL earlier categories are recommended.

    For Bikes=Not recommended if energy conserving,,

    API-SL(2001 Gasoline Engine Service):

    Category SL was adopted to describe engine oils for use in 2001. It is for use in service typical of gasoline engines in present and earlier passenger cars, sports utility vehicles, vans and light trucks operating under vehicle manufacturers recommended maintenance procedures. Oils meeting API SL requirements have been tested according to the American Chemistry Council (ACC) Product Approval Code of Practice and may utilize the API Base Oil Interchange and Viscosity Grade Engine Testing Guidelines. They may be used where API Service Category SJ and earlier categories are recommended..

    For bikes(Higly recommended--->>>Devilskreed choice award<<<)Non energy conserving good for bike with not extra added friction modifiers but low ZDDP(Zinc-phosphorus quantity than predecessors' i.e(0.05%-- ZDDP is a last resort protection against metal-to-metal contact).However, this in itself may not be a problem since normal operation of a motorcycle on the street would never result in metal-to-metal contact any more than it would in your automobile. Remember these SL oils meet the most demanding protection requirements of modern, high-reving, powerful 4-stroke automobile engines (among others). And there is no reason to believe the lubrication requirements of street motorcycles is measurably different.

    API-SJ (1997 Gasoline Engine Service)

    Category SJ was adopted in 1996 to describe engine oil first mandated in 1997. It is for use in service typical of gasoline engines in present and earlier passenger cars, vans, and light trucks operating under manufacturers recommended maintenance procedures. Oils meeting API SH requirements have been tested according to the American Chemistry Council (ACC) Product Approval Code of Practice and may utilize the API Base Oil Interchange and Viscosity Grade Engine Testing Guidelines. They may be used where API Service Category SH and earlier categories are recommended.

    ForBikes=COmpatible and recommended..

    API-SH Obsolete For model year 1996 and older engines.

    For bikes=Compatible but there are better alternatives

    API-SG Obsolete For model year 1993 and older engines.

    For bikes=Compatible but there are better alternatives

    API-SF=Chacha oil--recommended on all pakistani bikes..Can be used but there are WAY WAY better alternatives

    Synthetic or Conventional

    All motor oils have several special additives formulated into the oil to protect from corrosion and wear, plus detergents to keep combustion products in the oil. For normal (non-extreme) use, "dino" oils protect as well as the synthetic oils. However, if you plan to race, run at extremely high temperatures, or plan to extend oil-change intervals, or simply want the best, then a synthetic or semi-synthetic may be your best choice.

    By far liqui-moly is the best available mineral oil in 20w50 Viscosity ratings..

    I am still looking for a good fully-semi synthetic oil..Till now found none..Zic oils have a history of causing ruckus in Honda 100CC's and above to i tend to stay away,.

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    Hmm so now I got it, its too slippery for the bike..
    Id look for some other now, thanks

    Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2

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    @devilskreed
    You have termed API-SF=Do not use >>>damages engine

    and Honda Oil is API-SF/CD, it means we are damaging our engines ?????
    Moreover, which brand is offering API-SL Oil?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mfdarvesh View Post
    @devilskreed
    You have termed API-SF=Do not use >>>damages engine

    and Honda Oil is API-SF/CD, it means we are damaging our engines ?????
    Moreover, which brand is offering API-SL Oil?
    Well because of our super obsolete engines..API-SF would still be sufficient..It is termed as obsolete by api and API has moved onto better ratings..Btw API-CC can damage but its API-CD which is acceptable..More over khud sochain 1988 kay base oil specs still in use?Yeh pakistan main hi possible hai..Manuals recommend API-SF as our bikes are not so advanced

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    Quote Originally Posted by devilskreed View Post
    Well because of our super obsolete engines..API-SF would still be sufficient..It is termed as obsolete by api and API has moved onto better ratings..Btw API-CC can damage but its API-CD which is acceptable..More over khud sochain 1988 kay base oil specs still in use?Yeh pakistan main hi possible hai..Manuals recommend API-SF as our bikes are not so advanced
    Ji
    Bike technology is still in 80s
    and in this way oil standard is much advances as of 90s

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    red somewhere that the new ratings were necessary due to the use of non aesbestos clutch plates which were necessiated by EPA .. so whats the possibility of such in pakistan ...

    BTW Havoline for the Win .. for now ..

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    best oil for pridor?one thing more after the drive of 2km i can feel the heat from engine,is it normal?the bike is only 30km driven know.
    Sada nai banya.......Chalo koi gul nai....mitti pao...its ok..!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Anyone View Post
    best oil for pridor?one thing more after the drive of 2km i can feel the heat from engine,is it normal?the bike is only 30km driven know.
    Which oil are u using these days? Oil grade? And is ur running complete?
    During running ur required not travel long distances without giving a break to ur bike to cool down, its s new engine I suppose and its normal for it to heat.

    Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Anyone View Post
    best oil for pridor?one thing more after the drive of 2km i can feel the heat from engine,is it normal?the bike is only 30km driven know.
    Bhai break in period main Bike normal say thora ziada garam hota hai..drive at speeds of not more than 35 Km/hr for first 300 Km atleast--500 recommended..Break inkay baad engine garamkam ho gi..Btw if you are unsure if the bike oil in ur ride is not branded i would suggest you to replace it with honda oil..Oil draining intervals are 500Km during break in period

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    I usually use ZIC 20-50w HIFLO in my 125cc, the remaining from my car oil change. Its also gud i think, no problems at all

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    Quote Originally Posted by devilskreed View Post
    Bhai break in period main Bike normal say thora ziada garam hota hai..drive at speeds of not more than 35 Km/hr for first 300 Km atleast--500 recommended..Break inkay baad engine garamkam ho gi..Btw if you are unsure if the bike oil in ur ride is not branded i would suggest you to replace it with honda oil..Oil draining intervals are 500Km during break in period
    yup bike breakin mein zyada garam ho ga, no need to worry..
    But i am not sure about that break in procedure... 35Km/h for first 500Km??? seems too slow and will make the engine habituated to low rpms i guess aka bike will not be able to achieve very high rpms later ... that much speed is ok for first 200Km, then i would say change the engine oil and start giving some speed to bike , but not more than half of the throttle and definitely not for extended period of time, such as slowly accelerate to 50~60Km/h for short periods of time also. And after 500Km/h , start giving little bursts of acceleration along with it. Just keep in mind to let the engine cool down in between, don't drive for long time and you should be good to go....
    well that's what i think, now let the experts come in

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    Yaar baray mazay kind baat hai yeh neya junoon pak wheelers k ung ung men sama *** hai pta nai kabse? :p
    Short bursts of speed wala

    Khair in my bike manual and in Yamaha crypton T105 scooter from where junoon has got its engine, currently sold in Malaysia and many other countries in 100 - 110cc variants.
    ^ Yamaha has suggested this way of breaking in: 1/3 throttle for 1st 250kms, 1/2 for the next 500 km and 3/4 throttle after that till 1000kms. Including first oil change at or before 500.

    Thus its what Yamaha recommends for these engines internationally.

    Bdw the engine on junoon also supports a self starter, abroad the same engine is offered with one... 5amp, 12 volt system.
    In Pakistani junoon place for self starter is also given beneath the engine.
    It can be installed but whole electrical system is to be upgraded, thus not worth it.

    However, I have an insider news Dyl has made a prototype 125 one model with disc and alloys, other with simple spokes.
    But we know its gonna be a chonda


    Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Automotorsport_Lover View Post
    Yaar baray mazay kind baat hai yeh neya junoon pak wheelers k ung ung men sama *** hai pta nai kabse? :p
    Short bursts of speed wala


    ^ Yamaha has suggested this way of breaking in: 1/3 throttle for 1st 250kms, 1/2 for the next 500 km and 3/4 throttle after that till 1000kms. Including first oil change at or before 500.

    Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2
    I guess short bursts are good to keep bike in shape, aka to make it ready for vroom vroom kind of ride also...
    anyway those throttle ranges are good , all i wanted to tell that general misconception of taking it too easy on the bike during break in is not good ....

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    yes I know

    Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2

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    for first 500Kms anything above 40 is not recommended..Koi chair chaar say bike ki consumption permanently kharab ho jayay gi..I did 60+on my bike afte 750Kms..ANd its consumption is really really well 64 Km/L at 50-60Km/hr..Bike's response is also top notch..Hard breaking is not recommended by honda

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    Today seen ZIC 4T
    It is fully synthetic, 10-40W, API-SL, JASO MA Certified
    in 0.7L capacity

    So far this oil seems perfect ...
    Synthetic Vs Mineral Engine oil for Motorcycles ? -1078326

    Synthetic Vs Mineral Engine oil for Motorcycles ? -1078327

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    ZIC 4t Incompatible with Honda's 100,125

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    Quote Originally Posted by mfdarvesh View Post
    Today seen ZIC 4T
    It is fully synthetic, 10-40W, API-SL, JASO MA Certified
    in 0.7L capacity

    So far this oil seems perfect ...
    This oil seems perfect on paper, i did try this oil in my Junoon also and didn't like it at all.
    Though it is a 10W/40, aka at cold rated "10" and at 100 degree rated "40", so basically when engine is full hot, it should behave similar to other 20W40 oils but it doesn't. kinda feel like you are using something like 10W30...

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