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Thread: An initiative against cost saving and dangerous procedures by illiterate mechanics

  1. #1
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    Lightbulb An initiative against cost saving and dangerous procedures by illiterate mechanics

    I have a tendency to gather as much information as I can about the things I use or consume. Unfortunately, however, that always results in utter disappointment and horror when it comes to our region; be it the impurity of Milk, or the jahalat employed by the ustaads. Granted, a portion of the blame is on us short-sighted consumers who insist on saving money at all the wrong things, but at the very least we should be informed of how that affects the machines that can injure and kill us.

    I hope that this thread will serve as a helpful summary of some of the procedures/techniques used by our illiterate mechanics which are either just time and cost saving at the expense of durability, or downright dangerous to the riders. But more importantly, I hope that the more enthusiastic and DIY-loving readers will use this to fight back this rusted culture by sharing proper procedures and locations to buy the necessary tools.

    To start things off, I will mention some tips and summarize information I have gathered about brake pads, air filter and front fork oil. My personal experiences with these relate to Suzuki GS-150, but the problems listed apply to almost all bikes.


    Brake shoe spring lubrication:
    Very few scenarios are more dangerous than finding out your brakes are effectively useless because of a layer of lubricating oil ON the surface of the brake shoe. I was greeted by this puzzling image after a hairy moment when descending from a mountain. It turned out that the lubricating grease the mechanic used was not a high melting point grease. This means that in summer-- and possibly in winters too--after a bit of driving the temperature inside the brakes will rise to the point where the cheap grease melts and coats the drums. I am not sure how prevalent this issue is, but whenever you see them applying any lubrication to the brake springs, either make sure that the grease has a high drop/melting point or ask them not to apply it at all. I haven't had it applied for more than 8 months now, and haven't had any issue with noise or repeat of the useless-brake-horror.

    (Foam type) Air filter oil:
    If your bike has foam type air filter, be advised that the filter itself is not designed to perform any filtering duties. That job is outsourced to the filter oil that is trapped between the minute gaps of the foam.

    What we are gifted with instead, is a few drops of used dirty engine oil which is barely smeared on the foam. Apart from changing the colour of the filter to the blessed black, this doesn't do much to keep the intake clean.

    What is needed instead is the filter to be dipped (and later squeezed to drain any excess oil) in a specially formulated foam filter oil, that is designed to be more tacky and sticky than any engine oil, so it stays trapped between the foam and not leak out of it after a few days (which mine did, even though I used the gear oil recommended by readers here).

    It is not hard to imagine the type of damage unfiltered air will do to your valves and piston, despite the mechanics insisting that it is even okay to use a filter with holes in it. I have tried my best to find any shop that has any type of foam filter oil, but unsurprisingly the result was confusing looks and stupid remarks. A little ray of hope came from a LiquiMoly distributor, who said that they can order it if there is enough demand for it.

    Fork oil (front shock absorber oil):
    I had to get one of my fork seal replaced after oil started leaking from it, but again to my disappointed the mechanic said he didn't have any fork oil (Suzuki recommends their own G-10 oil) and poured used engine oil without even measuring the correct amount. The result of which is that at high speeds, the front side of the bike seems to skid ever so slightly in one direction.

    Even if you are not having any noticeable problem because of wrong type of oil in forks, keep in mind that the shock absorbers not only are designed to make the ride comfortable, but a very important job of theirs is to keep pushing the wheel to the road at all times and conditions. The damping force the oil provides thus influences the grip of your wheels during braking and turns.

    Properly designed fork oils have anti-foaming agents among others, and stay at a relatively stable viscosity over changing temperatures. Engine oils have none of these qualities, while they are considerably thicker than any recommended fork oil (Kinematic viscosity of 100cSt+ for engine oils, while 10w fork oil are at ~33cSt). ATF (Automatic transmission fluid) can be a better alternative, provided it has similar viscosity as the recommended fork oil and doesn't damage the seals. Hydraulic oils are relatively thinner, but they don't have any anti foaming agents (prevents bubbles from forming)

    Unsurprisingly I couldn't find any type of fork oil in Pakistan. but abobobilly mentions in this thread that a LiquiMoly distributor told him that he will order if it there is enough demand for it. So please, if you feel like you would benefit from using either a proper foam filter oil or fork oil, mention it here and call the number posted there so we can collectively benefit from each other.

    One more thing I would like to add is the importance of properly tightening the bolts to their specific torque recommendations. Thanks to the "Making up for durability" thread we have the factory service manual for GS-150 and all the recommended torque settings, it would be great if any of you can post those specifications of other bikes. As most people won't have access to torque wrenches, one possibility is sharing and using them at various PW group meetings. After all, we are all here to help each other out.

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    very nice share brother. keep it up
    Man's heart away from nature becomes hard.

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    Subscribed

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    i agree with u dear last sunday i had a chance to read the workshop manual of CG-125 as i owned one.. i red many things and procedures with our so called usted Gs dnt follow at all..they use wrong tools too and ruin the bike..their are very few who knows the right way to work with bike...

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    lubrication on brake show springs that is a very serious matter i personally experienced this problem i was coming to ISD from muree (on my CG125) i feel that the brakes are loosing its grip i stop on a workshop that was not a bike workshop i borrowed some tools and i had spare brake show in bike tapa my friend helped me to loose the nuts and bolts. i saw that the grease coated on drum surface i cleaned the drum and show spring with patrol problem solved.

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    Very nice initiative bro, keep the good work up :-)

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    True stuff. Very true stuff.

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    If you buy a honda motorcycle (i dont know about other brands but they do give instructions i think) the manual has full brief instructions on how to tune a bike. If you dont want to get your hands dirty than atleast read the manual and when a mechanic does something atleast stop him or question him. Nuksan agar apna krwanay ka bhaut shok ni hai to.

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    The main problem is that most people buy bikes/cars with no technical sense what so ever. And they are the ones who make these idiots and retards into USTADS.

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    I have been searching for front fork oil last two weeks for my Honda 70, however its new but some tak noise coming on every bump so i visited Antenna shop they simply poured engine oil in forks and said now its ok but after test it become more worst and hard, told them to correct but they said yeah aisa he hota hay. so i discussed with several honda and non honda workshops for this irritating issue but no vein all are just consider to repour 20w-50 oil which seems jahalat.
    I searched pakwheel forum and other web resources honda shop manuals and finally results to proper alternative Power steering Fluid(PSF) or ATF with anti corrosion and anti foaming capability with rubber seals protection.
    Visited ZIC shop and got ATF XP III dexron-III (Anti foaming + anti corrosion+ Ruber seal compatible)@ 530 Rs and poured in front forks. after testing of shocks i feel great change tak sound went away and shocks performed so smooth no bump or vibration excellent smooth drive.
    Thanks to all wheel members who contributed and shared knowledge. Technical spec of oil can be viewed at
    Hi Tech Lubricants Limited

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    ASLAAMULIKUM bahi ye app main se koi apni qoume zuban main tarjoma kar sakta hai? urdu main yahan main to pakistan se hun

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