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Thread: Very poor mileage of my Honda 125

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    Default Very poor fuel average of my Honda 125

    I have honda 125 2014, 7000km driven. A few days ago its carb was stolen. I have bought a new one from atlas honda dealership, but the problem is that I'm getting an averge of just 17 km per litre.
    Can some one here explain me the reason. I have checked the carb by mechanic and he is saying that it is fine??


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    May be your petrol is also stolen...
    Check for any leaks and specially the overflow from carburetor.

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    Also must check PLUG. Few days ago I had this problem of very poor fuel average with my bike. fuel adjustments and air filter changed did not work. Finally after replacing plug with new original NGK plug, the fuel average got excellent.

    Also as said by metalhead, petrol stealing is too much these days.

    hope this helps.

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    @ metalhead nd -k,,Thanks for the replies.
    @ metalhead,,, Bro, I have replaced the petrol pipe with a new one and also the accelerator cable, at the time of installing new carb. I have also inspected the carb area for any leaks, but it was fine.
    I have recently added a new plug in my bike(a week ago). It would might be a problem of poor average.
    I visited a mechanic today and told him the story. He opened the slide of the carb and took out the c clip needle. The c-clip was in the middle position. He set it to the top position and said that now, the average would be fine..
    One more thing to mention is that, 4 months ago, in order to increase the speed(as advised by mechanic) I had done, the grinding of head.
    Aside from the issue, my bike, before the stealth of carb, was just awesome to ride, it used to start on first kick, even in cold, with rpm set to 0.7.
    But now it is having starting issues. The rpm is set to 1.2 , but still it does not start in first kick and shuts off after some time. I'm very disappointed...

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    A mileage that low will accumulate carbon soot at the exhaust. If its not there, you are losing petrol somewhere else.
    How is your bikes acceleration/pick?
    The starting problem could merely be a mixture problem, tappet adjustment.
    I would suggest to consult the shop where you got the new Carb. May be the Carb is not good or not tuned for your model.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quetta_Balochistan View Post
    I visited a mechanic today and told him the story. He opened the slide of the carb and took out the c clip needle. The c-clip was in the middle position. He set it to the top position and said that now, the average would be fine..


    You have Euro 2 2014 model.....the carb which came on it from factory was also Euro 2 one.......when buying new carb you were suppose to say "give me Euro 2 one"

    Why have you bought non-Euro carb ??

    The needle position in Euro 2 carb is fixed and it cannot be adjusted. The retainer holds the needle in place in a fixed position with no adjustable option (See pic below). There is no c-clip and no grooves on the needle of a Euro 2 carb

    Very poor mileage of my Honda 125 -1611417



    The non-Euro one which you have purchased has this set-up



    Very poor mileage of my Honda 125 -1611418Very poor mileage of my Honda 125 -1611419


    Also another main feature of Euro 2 carb which is absent in non-Euro is the ACV (Air cutt off valve).
    ACV during heavy deceleration cuts of the air supply to prevent lean condition from taking place (as petrol has been shut due to release of throttle) and thus prevents popping in the exhaust.
    If you ride like there's no tomorrow, there won't be.

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    From the helpful replies of the members , I have come to the point that, I have actually purchased a non euro2 carb, and it is not meant to work and adjust properly with my bike.
    As Friday today, and the shops r closed, so tomorrow I will go to the shop nd do the change..

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    @metalhead,,, there is no carbon deposit in the silencer, and regarding to mixture settings, the mixture jet is set to just one rotation out from a fully closed position.
    I think that this carb, that I have purchased is not suitable for my bike, and I should buy a euro2 version..

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    I have seen in manual to unscrew 2.25 turns out from full closed position. And my bike is running fine on this setting. My bike is 2006 model.
    Don't know about euro 2 setting.

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    Quote Originally Posted by metalhead View Post
    I have seen in manual to unscrew 2.25 turns out from full closed position. And my bike is running fine on this setting. My bike is 2006 model.
    Don't know about euro 2 setting.
    Thanks..!!
    Well I'm gonna change my carb tomorrow, with euro2 one.
    You would be quite happy with ur bike performance and average, provided that u have done the mechanical maintainaces on time and its equipped with the original carb.
    Although new carbs are a vailable from honda dealerships, but they are not of the quality that comes with the new bikes.
    You might have checked that , with the original carb, if you set your rpm as low as 0.7 , the bike not only manages to stan start but also starts at first hard, prolonged kick. This low rate of rpm makes your bike soundless, and also saves fuel to some extent.
    My bike was the s a me, but now I think that it would never come to this position again..:-(

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    As mentioned earlier, and I have done the head work(grinding of head). Does it have something concerned with the timing of the bike? I mean to say that, if the timing would have been changed at that time, and now it is causing the starting problem??

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    Yesteray I went to the dealership and exchanged the earlier purchased carb with the euro 2 one, ofcourse by paying Rs 900 as depreciation.
    I asked their senior mechanic to have an overall go through, of my bike. According to him, the bike is mechanically perfect, and there is no need of work required.
    Even after installation of this new carb. ,,starting problem and idle standing issue was there,, bike was not standing stable , below 1.3 rpm.
    To this mattet, the mechanic replied that this this matter wiil remain as it is, because, tjis is not the carb as the genuine one.
    Further he spent about half an hour to do the premium fuel settings, inorder to resolve the above discussed starting nd other issues, but he failed. He showed me another euro2 bike standing there, and di the same procedure with it, and that bike started well and stand stood at 0.85 rpm.
    Now what the hell, I can do to get the genuine carb??
    Of what use are these dealerships are eof, when they cannot keep the genuine parts.??
    Can somebody guide me to get the genuine carb??
    If the answer is Honda dealerahip, then please remind this thing, that they have the spate parts that are manufactured in honda plant sheikhupira, while the new bike spare parts are japan made, as because engines are imported from japan(or China, or whatsoever, they have contracted from) and fitted here.
    kindly,
    @metalhead
    @Chaudhry 007
    nd others..

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    Sorry for your loss and hope your problem resolves soon.
    How the mechanic checked for mechanically fit? Any compression test?
    What if the thief who stole three Carb threw a screw or something and it damaged your intake valve... just a thought.
    Why not discuss with any other mechanics?

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    @abobobilly
    Can you or anyone you know help this brother out?

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    In this type of situation you have to go for elimination strategy.

    Put your Euro 2 carb on another bike (Euro 2) and see if it gives problems there.
    You said there was another euro 2 standing there (i presume it had genuine carb) fitted on it you should have told the mechanic to fit it's carb on yours to absolutely make sure that carb is the problem. If the problem was solved then carb is the culprit otherwise there are lots of other things including the insulator, valves rockers arms..etc

    To be honest i think the shaving of the head is causing the problem, i don't understand what people want out of their cg's. 2014 model and you had it's head opened on the advice of the mechanic.

    Anyone correct me if i am wrong shaving means the dome of the head has been slightly deepened so that there is more space above the piston and the blast which takes place is more than normal. This would not only have a worse effect on the valves (which i personally thing are the reason) but also don't expect the piston to last much longer either.

    Very poor mileage of my Honda 125 -1612606


    Check your sparkplug as well......unstable rpm could also mean you are running lean (plug becomes whitish)
    Although it looks highly unlikely as mechanic has tried different settings there.
    If you ride like there's no tomorrow, there won't be.

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    Thanks to the dear members, @metalhead, @chaudhry 007 and others. As told by chaudhry 007, today just about 3 hours before, I went to the mechanic and asked him to put out a carb from any genuine Euro-II standing at his place and equip it in mine, in order to have a comparison test. After a bit of hesitation , he agreed and did the thing. In order to check the mileage, the mechanic drained all the fuel out of my tank, and opened one of the nut of the carb to drain off the fuel in the bowl. Then he brought a big syringe type thing, and filled it petrol, till 100ml, and then poured it in my tank. Now he gave me some fuel in a bottle and asked to ride the bike and note the meter reading when the engine turns off on its own. I did the procedure and marked the reading.
    The average was nearly about 0.38km/100ml, with speed kept between 40-70. This showed that my bike can give upto 38km in one litre.
    So, the story is finished. My bike is OK, the only thin which I need to have is a original carb(Don't know from where??).
    And finally, I'm now satisfied.
    Again thanks alot, @metalhead , @chaudhry 007 and the other respectful members.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quetta_Balochistan View Post
    The average was nearly about 0.38km/100ml, with speed kept between 40-70. This showed that my bike can give upto 38km in one litre.
    I hope there is some typing mistake there as 0.38km/100ml comes out to 3.8km/1000ml or 3.8km/L
    Must be 3.8km/100ml ????


    1L=1000mL
    If you ride like there's no tomorrow, there won't be.

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    if carb is the issue try changing both the pilot and the main jet to 90 and 38 number respectively.
    Use hi-octane with petrol.....
    If you ride like there's no tomorrow, there won't be.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chaudhary007 View Post
    I hope there is some typing mistake there as 0.38km/100ml comes out to 3.8km/1000ml or 3.8km/L
    Must be 3.8km/100ml ????


    1L=1000mL
    Yes my mistke,,its ~3.8km:-)
    Tomorrow InshaAllah, I will go for the jets change..
    Would you please tell me their effect on the bike's performance??

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quetta_Balochistan View Post
    Yes my mistke,,its ~3.8km:-)
    Tomorrow InshaAllah, I will go for the jets change..
    Would you please tell me their effect on the bike's performance??
    bigger jet more petrol passes through less economy better performance.
    If you ride like there's no tomorrow, there won't be.

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