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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    in the pictures above - the carburettor is missing the A/C idle up diaphragm.

    About connecting the vacuum pipes, you need to run on from the red filter on the inlet manifold to the solenoid directly - and one from the solenoid to the diaphragm. do this on both solenoids. test by turning on A/C or headlamps rpms should increase and then fall when switched off, if the rpms dont reduce you need to reverse the pipe connections on the solenoid.

    The alternator load adjustment should be such that when you turn on your headlamps and your rpms should rise enough to return to normal idle speed not higher than idle - Your A/C one should be set the same way.
    Thank you, it worked.... hurray!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by daniyalahmad View Post
    ^ Well I would say that whenever you accelerate it,
    It always gives one big jerk after releasing the clutch.
    My mechanic used the term " Ghut kar race pakar rahi hai gari".
    No matter how slowly and how late you release the clutch, It gives jerks.
    The mechanic wanted to check the distributor as the problem was not sorted out after the cleaning of the carb but it was time for aftari so I postponed it.
    Your issue seems to be that your plunger pump in the carb is not squirting fuel fully or your powervalve in the carb is leaking - that makes it run a little rich and can cause stumbles on acceleration, and secondly your vacuum advance seems to be inoperative.

    I solved this problem in an old carby Honda Accord, its plunger pump was weak and its distributor had a siezed centrifugal advance and a dead vacuum advance. This car also had a miconnected dashpot that was causing dead spots on overrun and acceleration
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    ok..i went to the mechanic today..i told him about a missing diaphragm n he agreed tht its missing..so ive asked him to aragne one for me...he says will cost around 500 with both the diaphragm n the vaccum thingy..
    plus i purchased the thermostat valve for 150.used one,dont knw of wat car but it will fit in khyber..its opening temperature is 80'C ..
    xulifiqar
    this is wat i did..i put some boiling water n put the thermostat valve in it..it opened,n then i took it out n put cold water on it n it came back..did this 3 times...it opens n closes OK..
    i wana knw how much shud it open?i mean how much shud it b opening?
    any picture will help...also ill upload pic of thermostat vavle in opened n closed position so tht u can see n tell if its ok or not..
    shopkeeper says he will change if it didnt work fine so no worries..
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    ok..i went to the mechanic today..i told him about a missing diaphragm n he agreed tht its missing..so ive asked him to aragne one for me...he says will cost around 500 with both the diaphragm n the vaccum thingy..
    plus i purchased the thermostat valve for 150.used one,dont knw of wat car but it will fit in khyber..its opening temperature is 80'C ..
    xulifiqar
    this is wat i did..i put some boiling water n put the thermostat valve in it..it opened,n then i took it out n put cold water on it n it came back..did this 3 times...it opens n closes OK..
    i wana knw how much shud it open?i mean how much shud it b opening?
    any picture will help...also ill upload pic of thermostat vavle in opened n closed position so tht u can see n tell if its ok or not..
    shopkeeper says he will change if it didnt work fine so no worries..
    nice prices you got for the said items. you got good links
    according to SA310 service manual opening temp should be 88C (+- 2C) and at 100C the valve should be fully opened (2.5cm approx)

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    posting it here just for reference
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/whe...51#post2275571

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    Thanks for the advice.

    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    @daniyal

    oh.. one more thing
    is the jerking related just to release of clutch or it also happens when you rev the engine while the car is standstill.
    Yes it does, but since its stationery so no jerks are felt.
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Your issue seems to be that your plunger pump in the carb is not squirting fuel fully or your powervalve in the carb is leaking - that makes it run a little rich and can cause stumbles on acceleration, and secondly your vacuum advance seems to be inoperative.

    I solved this problem in an old carby Honda Accord, its plunger pump was weak and its distributor had a siezed centrifugal advance and a dead vacuum advance. This car also had a miconnected dashpot that was causing dead spots on overrun and acceleration
    A bundle of thanks!
    I,ll get them checked.
    Thankyou.
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    ok..i went to the mechanic today..i told him about a missing diaphragm n he agreed tht its missing..so ive asked him to aragne one for me...he says will cost around 500 with both the diaphragm n the vaccum thingy..
    plus i purchased the thermostat valve for 150.used one,dont knw of wat car but it will fit in khyber..its opening temperature is 80'C ..
    xulifiqar
    this is wat i did..i put some boiling water n put the thermostat valve in it..it opened,n then i took it out n put cold water on it n it came back..did this 3 times...it opens n closes OK..
    i wana knw how much shud it open?i mean how much shud it b opening?
    any picture will help...also ill upload pic of thermostat vavle in opened n closed position so tht u can see n tell if its ok or not..
    shopkeeper says he will change if it didnt work fine so no worries..
    Interesting!
    If you can then do post the pictures of the thermostat valve as I would like to see how it actually looks.
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    @smijaz
    yup..hope i get them in the mentioned prie cuz u never knw wats gonna b the payable amount for anything in pakistan..hehe
    @daniyal
    ok.ill post pix 2mrw with thermostat opened n closed...

    smijaz..
    2.5 cm APP ...ok..ill chk how much do my bought thermostat opens.....
    ill get the diaphragm in day or 2 so lets see if it makes prob run off...fingers crossed..

    ive a question..
    khyber suspenesion is very noisy,im using marshall made in china tyres .at start they were sofyt but like aftr 15k kms,they have become kinda hard.tread is as new as it cud b but on bumy roads car makes too much noises..
    wat r the best tyres for khyber tht r soft enuff to make it SHUT UP on bumpy roads...
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    ive a question..
    khyber suspenesion is very noisy,im using marshall made in china tyres .at start they were sofyt but like aftr 15k kms,they have become kinda hard.tread is as new as it cud b but on bumy roads car makes too much noises..
    wat r the best tyres for khyber tht r soft enuff to make it SHUT UP on bumpy roads...
    Bridgestone B70 (Japanese) 165/70 R12 is the best in road grip, silence and comfort.

    Currently using Nexen SB702, very good tyre with good grip and low noise but its a bit low on comfort.

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    can u mention the price of these two brands plz???
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    Bridgestone B70 165/70 R12 Rs. 3800+ approx

    Nexen SB702 165/70 R12 Rs 2900/tyre from metro dont know about market rate.

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    how about singa tyres n general euro?
    cuz my frnd is using general tyre in his 95 khyber n he has alot less noise in his car than mine..
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    @ Cracked
    Are you sure you have no alignment/suspension issues??

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    alignment is fine...month back it was done both alignment n wheel balancing..
    suspension is not fully ok cuz its been one year wen it was done...problem is rear tyres also make noise so if it was the suspension,only front tyres area wud have been makin noise but both back n front tyres r KHAR KHAr karing..!!!
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    hae wen i turn off the ac,car seems like dying..i mean it deacclerate very quickly tht it takes jerk wen i turn off the ac..matlb jb ac off kro tou gari aik dam sy rpm lose krti hy n gari baray su jhatky k sath normal rpm py aati hy,i mean at the idle speed without ac..
    is it with my khyber or this works this way?
    i guess ac k off hony k baad gari ko smoothly rpm decrease krna chaeay..nae?
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    @daniyal
    ok.ill post pix 2mrw with thermostat opened n closed...
    And where will you put this valve?
    Please explain it to me.

    ive a question..
    khyber suspenesion is very noisy,im using marshall made in china tyres .at start they were sofyt but like aftr 15k kms,they have become kinda hard.tread is as new as it cud b but on bumy roads car makes too much noises..
    wat r the best tyres for khyber tht r soft enuff to make it SHUT UP on bumpy roads...
    I never had any problems with my suspension,
    They are working fine.
    I was using Kumho Power Star in size 145/80/12 and then upgraded them to 165/70/12 early this year.
    Got Dunlop digityre ECO this time.
    Tyre is soft and there is no noise with its stock suspension.
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    hae wen i turn off the ac,car seems like dying..i mean it deacclerate very quickly tht it takes jerk wen i turn off the ac..matlb jb ac off kro tou gari aik dam sy rpm lose krti hy n gari baray su jhatky k sath normal rpm py aati hy,i mean at the idle speed without ac..
    is it with my khyber or this works this way?
    i guess ac k off hony k baad gari ko smoothly rpm decrease krna chaeay..nae?
    The car taking a jerk when you turn on the AC during driving is normal, but on turning it off it should not behave like this.
    Why dont you get it checked?
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    I believe you either have a sticking ac compressor relay - that can cause rpms to drop even when you have shut off your A/C.

    anyways about the thermostat, its supposed to open up atleast 2.0 mm when at marked temperature, 80 degrees seems ok as it will regulate the temps rightly, your radiator fan switch will kick on at 95 degrees celcius and cut out at 88 degrees - and a thermostat keeping it there, you will have one very very happy engine
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    about releasing rpms smoothly - the dashpot in your carb must be stuck contracted or is missing its slow release valve in the vacuum pipe - this diaphragms function is to hold the throttle open slightly for about half second when you release the pedal. if its not functioning the the rpms will drop immediately - thats bad.

    There is also another thing called the hot idle compensator on the carb - it adds extra air to the mixture when the carb becomes hot - if it has failed internally it can be a direct vacuum leak in the manifold - causing misfires, stumbles and all sort of stupid behaviour
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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