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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    AOA

    Dear members and experts. I own a 1993 Khyber. I just started reading this thread from the very beginning and m half way now, i must say its very informative. Specially the info provided by xulfiqar, smijaz, fass, cracked, daniyal and others.

    I will be bugging you guys for queries off and on.

    As of now i need a service manual for Khyber. All links available in this thread are not working.

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    ^ Welcome on board!
    I have the owner's manual of Khyber, will post pictures of it ASAP.

    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    This does not look like a suzuki 310/khyber rack - the pinion angle that is more upwards is correct, The other issue you have is that the rack ends make the steering longer.
    Yes the original rack has a much straight angle, now its fitted in my car.
    Like I said that I was having a steering assembly of a complete genuine Khyber, which I was using as a standard.
    The tie rods I got were of the same length and with equal threads, even after attaching the rack ends, the length of the tie rods was same to the standard steering assembly.

    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    You would need to remove the rack ends, get them rethreaded with about 5 or 8 more threads and cut the leading edge about 3 or 4 threads. This will give you a bit room to adjust.
    Which side to cut?
    Outer one?
    I'll try to get a picture of the car's bottom.
    Please highlight it on the picture.

    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    The binding at full lock is bad - it is caused by incorrect camber due to excessive turn in but the other wheel cannot pull it back on centre. This is usually caused by faulty caster angle and is sometimes also caused by bad toe in problem along with sloppy ball joints which changes the camber a lot when turning.
    Another thing I would like to mention here.
    This happens only on right turn, where as on left turn (which locks at less i-e at around 1.60 turns instead of 1.75) the RH wheel never does this wheel dragging thing and the steering returns back to its center position normally.
    Slop in ball joints of the steering or of the lower suspension arms?
    Caster angle seems to be alright and both wheels seem to be properly centered in the wheel well. Both strut mounts are in proper place, however the LH camber is not correct.
    I got the car aligned and after 2 days the LH front wheel had a bad toe angle.
    I showed this to that alignment guy, he said "Aap ne kisi khadday main maari hogi" -.-
    He adjusted it again and today the front left wheel is back to that faulty position, outwards from up and inwards from bottom.
    Don't know what to do with it now.
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    what sort of alignment guy is this? your car has fixed camber - it cannot just change on its own by hitting a pot hole unless you bent something out of shape.

    When repairing this I usually like to tie the steering wheel dead straight with the seat belt or even something to arrest it from the roof - remove the rack and mark the pinion. Then count the turns from edge to edge - divide by 2 - stop at centre and check the mounting fitment and length of both rack ends.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    what sort of alignment guy is this? your car has fixed camber - it cannot just change on its own by hitting a pot hole unless you bent something out of shape.
    Can it be due to the bolts which were tooled to a thinner size, to adjust camber?
    I inquired him about this and asked him to re-torque those bolts which he did.
    BTW these are the threads which he counted and they are and should be equal on both sides.
    Are these the check nuts which can be used to reduce/increase the turn on either side?
    Plus do note the gap developing in the inner frame and outer shield and what should be the best way to repair it?

    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    When repairing this I usually like to tie the steering wheel dead straight with the seat belt or even something to arrest it from the roof - remove the rack and mark the pinion. Then count the turns from edge to edge - divide by 2 - stop at centre and check the mounting fitment and length of both rack ends.
    That's the problem here, itni bareeki main jaata koi nahi.
    You can get the idea that the image I posted above of the steering assembly, was treated as a genuine SA-310's steerin assy. until I got hold of genuine steering and showed them the difference. -.-
    I try to rectify every issue by bringing everything back to normal, according to its original specs, arguing at every small difference and everytime I get this response" Oh yaar itne se faraq se kuch nahi hota, aap ka veham hai, hum din main 10 gaariyan krte hain aur sab main aise he kaam krte hain , kabhi koi faraq nahi aaya"
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Your carburettor "DOES" have a system for the headlamps and radiator fan idle up. Its a little vacuum pod at the back of the carburettor, Its also adjustable. Adjust it such that when any of the items switch on the rpm remains stable @ 950 rpm.

    Just like the A/C compressor idle up vacuum pod.

    The cold start requires the choke to be pulled out for fast idle speed. Keep it pulled till the engine gets stable.
    I looked into it and found vacuum pipe blocked against each other. also there is a pin hole in it and i can feel the vacuum leak.
    will have to search for a new vacuum inlet screw type thing
    I was driving it by a kind of instinct, only I was in a different dimension...............................Ayrton Senna

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    thnx daniyal, do you have a service manual in pdf?

    or Anybody else? , a little help here.

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    Quote Originally Posted by daniyalahmad View Post
    Can it be due to the bolts which were tooled to a thinner size, to adjust camber?
    I inquired him about this and asked him to re-torque those bolts which he did.
    BTW these are the threads which he counted and they are and should be equal on both sides.
    Are these the check nuts which can be used to reduce/increase the turn on either side?
    Plus do note the gap developing in the inner frame and outer shield and what should be the best way to repair it?


    That's the problem here, itni bareeki main jaata koi nahi.
    You can get the idea that the image I posted above of the steering assembly, was treated as a genuine SA-310's steerin assy. until I got hold of genuine steering and showed them the difference. -.-
    I try to rectify every issue by bringing everything back to normal, according to its original specs, arguing at every small difference and everytime I get this response" Oh yaar itne se faraq se kuch nahi hota, aap ka veham hai, hum din main 10 gaariyan krte hain aur sab main aise he kaam krte hain , kabhi koi faraq nahi aaya"
    @ daniyal
    all these alignment guys are the same, im still looking for someone who atleast justifies what they are charging, if not completely then to some extent will do. you are right these are their fav dialogues to satify the customer.

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    Aslam-o-alikum! Friends today i disconnect all wires from distributor cap and also from spark plugs from my khyber 1989 model...no i have no idea how to re-fit these cables....can any one guide me how can i re-fit it
    Regards

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    Fareed at Honda pit stop cavalry is a nice guy and does a good job

    Sent from my SGH-I747M using PW Forums mobile app
    https://www.facebook.com/OsamaAbbasPhotography

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    Quote Originally Posted by daniyalahmad View Post
    Can it be due to the bolts which were tooled to a thinner size, to adjust camber?
    I inquired him about this and asked him to re-torque those bolts which he did.
    BTW these are the threads which he counted and they are and should be equal on both sides.
    Are these the check nuts which can be used to reduce/increase the turn on either side?
    Plus do note the gap developing in the inner frame and outer shield and what should be the best way to repair it?


    That's the problem here, itni bareeki main jaata koi nahi.
    You can get the idea that the image I posted above of the steering assembly, was treated as a genuine SA-310's steerin assy. until I got hold of genuine steering and showed them the difference. -.-
    I try to rectify every issue by bringing everything back to normal, according to its original specs, arguing at every small difference and everytime I get this response" Oh yaar itne se faraq se kuch nahi hota, aap ka veham hai, hum din main 10 gaariyan krte hain aur sab main aise he kaam krte hain , kabhi koi faraq nahi aaya"

    I never recommend thinning out those bolts - they are hardened bolts and carry the load of the car as they are under the springs. You do not want to imagine what happens when they snap off.

    You can oblong the hole in the strut in an upwards curve to set the camber if your car's chassis is bent out of shape or you have lowered so much that it is out of range. This car from the factory has fixed camber which is set by the ride height (springs) The caster is also fixed.

    now back to your problem - you can try to adjust the tie rods from here by moving the centre towards your favored bias - thread clockwise on one side and anticlockwise on the other side.

    If you want to check for rack centre, remove the wheels, remove the tie rod ends and turn the steering lock to lock and calculate the centre - now arrest the wheel in this position (easy if you have an assisant) or you have to bribe your younger/older brother/sister or ammi/papa/dadajee to hold it right where you want it, check the amount of toe on the hubs and calculate if you can remove this problem with the threaded ends. (use a ruler)

    If you see that the steering is way off - then you need to see what is causing this, is one rack end too long?
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    I have a question regardin brakes. The problem is if i dont over fill the brake oil bottle(up to its neck), i dont feel any pressure/strength in brakes but if i over fill brake oil then the brakes work gud, also the oil level gradually decreases a substantial after 4, 5 days.
    I showed it to my mechanic there is no visible leakage at servo or at brake calipers.
    wat can be the issue?

    do suggest a gud mechanic for khyber in pindi or isb.

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    ^
    substantial amount *

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    What are the the exact slow jet and main jet nos for khyber's carb. i had my carb serviced, butterfly was damaged which was changed.
    mechanic changed a jet aswell he said "long wala jet kharab ha, and asked me to get a 95 no jet which was not available so he asked me to get a 92 no and said he will adjust it". now i dont know wat was it. but im not satisfied with the mileage. wana get the carb reserviced. (suggest a good place to get it done with)

    any suggestions wat should i check and the stock jet numbers please.

    i want a good mileage but i also dont wana have my engine begging for petrol.

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    about the carb jets, a bigger number means more dia or vice versa.

    like 95 no has more dia than 92 no???

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    Friends i faced a very strange situation while i opened my plugs of 89 khyber...all plugs are settelled with adaptor and centre adopter got free while tighten back...Any solution for it plz

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    i have following queries

    Self Tunning  Khyber G10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -1366303

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    Few days back my cars engine caught fire, my bro was lucky enough to notice a sudden rise in temp and smoke coming out at front, he immediately turned off the engine, when he opened the bonut engine was on fire. couple of buckets helped put out the fire.

    mechanic said it was due to leakage of petrol from a damaged pipe or some pipe burst. it wasnt electrical shortcircuit since 90 % of the wiring was intact. I personally believe that he left some clamp loose when he serviced my carb. I remember the pipes to be in mint condition with zero cracks.

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    should i get the carb reserviced?? and somebody please answer my question about jets in carb

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    @fas133
    if u are still here bro, couple of years back, u shared a google docs link of khyber service manual, its not working

    can u please share a new link

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    Quote Originally Posted by waqasahmed85 View Post
    i have following queries

    Self Tunning  Khyber G10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -1366303
    Those two pipes are a vacuum source for the vacuum solenoids you see, Whoever connected them both together is in need of mental help. The little red thing is actually a filter. It should have 3 ports and one would be blocked. It is used when in the factory A/C cars as it was used to route vacuum to the A/C idle up vacuum pod.

    The two green arrows you made.

    left side = secondary throttle opener
    right side = headlamp idle up vacuum pod

    the blue arrows point to vacuum pipes

    the secondary throttle directly connects to the carby in the picture
    the pipe going to an electric switch and then to the headlamp idle up is just that "the headlamp idle up"

    When you switch on the headlamps or the radiator fan kicks on this solenoid energizes and raises idle speed by sucking on that vacuum pod.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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