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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    it was raining so i didnt went near as the back side was not under shade, will check in morning.

    If engine oil looses its colour(gets black) and viscosity very early, but there is no decrease in oil level. what could be possible reason for this??

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    @ daniyal

    i want detail of carb and complete electrical wiring diagram.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    I never recommend thinning out those bolts - they are hardened bolts and carry the load of the car as they are under the springs. You do not want to imagine what happens when they snap off.
    I had the same argument but the alignment guy said: "Bhai to aap he bata dain phir ke camber kaise set kroon main?"
    Anyways what is the best solution now?
    Should I get new bolts?

    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    You can oblong the hole in the strut in an upwards curve to set the camber if your car's chassis is bent out of shape or you have lowered so much that it is out of range. This car from the factory has fixed camber which is set by the ride height (springs) The caster is also fixed.
    Chassis is in place, no issues carefully examined by myself and confirmed by 2 various denters, moreover I don't want these denters to play with the strut mount as I know that they'll ruin the mounts.
    Ride height is normal, car is on normal springs, hasn't been lowered so this thing is also out of the equation.

    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    If you want to check for rack centre, remove the wheels, remove the tie rod ends and turn the steering lock to lock and calculate the centre - now arrest the wheel in this position (easy if you have an assisant) or you have to bribe your younger/older brother/sister or ammi/papa/dadajee to hold it right where you want it, check the amount of toe on the hubs and calculate if you can remove this problem with the threaded ends. (use a ruler)

    If you see that the steering is way off - then you need to see what is causing this, is one rack end too long?
    Now this is my next step.
    I'll do this and report back to you!
    Thanks a bunch!
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    @ daniyal

    do you any idea about the size of jets in khyber carb??

    is there any gud mechanic of khyber in pindi or isb??

    im thinkin about going to suzuki central

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    Quote Originally Posted by waqasahmed85 View Post
    @ daniyal

    i want detail of carb and complete electrical wiring diagram.
    Okay.
    I'll get it.
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    ^
    thnx bro

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    @ Xulfiqar

    If engine oil looses its colour(gets black) and viscosity very early, but there is no decrease in oil level. what could be the possible reason for this??

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    Quote Originally Posted by waqasahmed85 View Post
    @ Xulfiqar

    If engine oil looses its colour(gets black) and viscosity very early, but there is no decrease in oil level. what could be the possible reason for this??

    every oil will darken after use - its normal. It may also seem to thin out excessively specially if you check it warm. Its normal. Make sure the engine gets nice n hot while running to remove all water condensate from the oil, also unscrew the PCV valve from the intake manifold and clean it out with carb cleaner, its in the middle of the manifold and looks like a tall nut, it would have a rubber pipe connected to it.

    It keeps the oil clean.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    yup i cleaned the PCV valve today with WD40 and carb cleaner.

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    One more thing Xulfiqar bhai

    when i asked about smoke from silencer

    you said "burnt oil - check your engine"

    even if its not in my case just for knowledge sake

    Does this mean that engine oil is dirty and change is over due or something else??

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    Name:  ImageUploadedByPW Forums1393540159.577186.jpg
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    My Khyber pls comments
    -

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    nice ride buddy

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    @ Nice ride bro. Share some details about the steering assembly. As for the car looks good. I personally like khyber in its stock condition. Your interior looks good. And which car seats are these?

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    @ Xulfiqar Bhai

    Does the length of fuel pipes from solenoid to fuel pump and from fuel pump to carb matter???

    I changed the pipes myself, but increased the length to avoid any hard bends.

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    Thanks all of you. Its Japanese Alto steering assembly with EPS and seats bougth from Shair Shah... Shop keeper called its Indus GTi...!
    -

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    Does the length of fuel pipes from solenoid to fuel pump and from fuel pump to carb matter???

    I changed the pipes myself, but increased the length to avoid any hard bends.

    also

    is it ok fill the radiator completely with coolant or it should be in some ratio with water

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    the length of the fuel pipe does not matter as long as its not rubbing on anything.



    you should never use neat coolant - it wont work. You need to use half coolant and half distilled water. Make sure you have 100% coolant and not premixed. If you have premixed you should not use additional water.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    the length of the fuel pipe does not matter as long as its not rubbing on anything.



    you should never use neat coolant - it wont work. You need to use half coolant and half distilled water. Make sure you have 100% coolant and not premixed. If you have premixed you should not use additional water.
    thnx xulfiqar bhai

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    Quote Originally Posted by daniyalahmad View Post
    I had the same argument but the alignment guy said: "Bhai to aap he bata dain phir ke camber kaise set kroon main?"
    Anyways what is the best solution now?
    Should I get new bolts?



    Chassis is in place, no issues carefully examined by myself and confirmed by 2 various denters, moreover I don't want these denters to play with the strut mount as I know that they'll ruin the mounts.
    Ride height is normal, car is on normal springs, hasn't been lowered so this thing is also out of the equation.


    Now this is my next step.
    I'll do this and report back to you!
    Thanks a bunch!

    If you say that your ride height is correct then how come you have bad camber? The only way that happens is when you use spacers to lift the car - this pushes the strut down which causes negative camber.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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