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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    Quote Originally Posted by waqasahmed85 View Post
    @speedster

    Eadiator cap is OK and i don't over fill, and there is no dampness on the carpet as well. This started happening when i had the t-stat valve installed (its a genuine t-stat and i also checked it in boiling water).

    can this be the reason that when engine is hot to the optimum level, more water is evaporated. When i didn't have t-stat installed the temp needle used to stay a little above "C" and now it stays in the middle of C & H.

    and i just noticed a typo error im using Caltex coolant not calcite

    you cannot have evaporation inside a cooling system. The low level in the radiator is caused by water/coolant mix not being sucked back into the system when it cools down.

    You have to find this leak.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by waqasahmed85 View Post
    @speedster

    Eadiator cap is OK and i don't over fill, and there is no dampness on the carpet as well. This started happening when i had the t-stat valve installed (its a genuine t-stat and i also checked it in boiling water).

    can this be the reason that when engine is hot to the optimum level, more water is evaporated. When i didn't have t-stat installed the temp needle used to stay a little above "C" and now it stays in the middle of C & H.

    and i just noticed a typo error im using Caltex coolant not calcite
    As mentioned by Xulfiqar, there can't be any evaporation inside a closed container. There is a small leak somewhere. Check the thermostat housing, clamps and pipes. I caught my car's leak from the red colour of the coolant which I was using. The water used to evaporate but the colour left its mark. So try checking it that way.
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    you cannot have evaporation inside a cooling system. The low level in the radiator is caused by water/coolant mix not being sucked back into the system when it cools down.

    You have to find this leak.
    He said that the reservoir bottle is decreasing its level. Means that the radiator is sucking water/coolant but there is some leak in the cooling system due to which the radiator decreases it level and then sucks water from reservoir.
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    @ Speedster & Xulfiqar

    Yup i saw your post, in fact i read this blog from the very first post to date. I checked the t-stat housing and clamps and pipes thoroughly for leaks but there was none.
    Today the coolant level in reservoir dropped to half just after a drive of 20 Km, earlier it used to decrease to this level after 2~3 days.
    And I guess i caught the leak, i believe its the water body, vl be confirmed when the mechanic checks it.I find water dripping from the right side at the left corner of engine oil pan near the timing belt housing, and the red colour of coolant confirmed that its the radiator water. The flow was not constant though sometimes it was very rapid and at times just a few drops.

    vl have it checked tomorrow, thnx

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    @ Xulfiqar & Speedster

    yup you guys are right there cant be an evaporation inside the cooling system, it was a dumb logic

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    is it just me or the website's host server has a lag of 5 hours

    my current post is timed 12: 02 PM and its almost 5 PM

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedster_101 View Post
    He said that the reservoir bottle is decreasing its level. Means that the radiator is sucking water/coolant but there is some leak in the cooling system due to which the radiator decreases it level and then sucks water from reservoir.

    Your logic is a bit flawed.

    here is how it works - first have a look at the radiator cap - it has a rubber faced valve with a strong spring under it - you can push this valve with the palms of your hands and a hat shaped valve that you have to pull with your finger nail.

    The heavy spring valve is the item that "sets" the system pressure at the rating stamped on the cap. As we all learnt in school that you can raise the boiling point of a liquid by increasing its pressure - thats why we have that valve in the cap.

    As the engine runs - it generates heat and the coolant sucks it up - it then wants to expand (natural phenomena) but the cap is stopping it till the rated pressure (lets assume it at 14.7 psi above atmospheric) as soon as the cap sees anything above the spring starts to collapse and water leaks past the seal - this is collected in the plastic bottle on the fender. When the engine is shut off and the system cools down the liquid will contract and start to create a vacuum.

    This causes the little hat shaped valve to be sucked open and water/coolant is sucked from the expansion tank. Both these phenomena happen every time you drive.




    lesson 2

    if you have a pin hole leak in the expansion tank pipe or the radiator cap neck or the cap on the expansion tank itself the system suck air from this leak (air is lighter than water) and once the vacuum is gone the activity stops. Now as you have air in the system the water/coolant will boil - and when you check it you will find low level under the cap.

    Its quite simple
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Your logic is a bit flawed.

    here is how it works - first have a look at the radiator cap - it has a rubber faced valve with a strong spring under it - you can push this valve with the palms of your hands and a hat shaped valve that you have to pull with your finger nail.

    The heavy spring valve is the item that "sets" the system pressure at the rating stamped on the cap. As we all learnt in school that you can raise the boiling point of a liquid by increasing its pressure - thats why we have that valve in the cap.

    As the engine runs - it generates heat and the coolant sucks it up - it then wants to expand (natural phenomena) but the cap is stopping it till the rated pressure (lets assume it at 14.7 psi above atmospheric) as soon as the cap sees anything above the spring starts to collapse and water leaks past the seal - this is collected in the plastic bottle on the fender. When the engine is shut off and the system cools down the liquid will contract and start to create a vacuum.

    This causes the little hat shaped valve to be sucked open and water/coolant is sucked from the expansion tank. Both these phenomena happen every time you drive.




    lesson 2

    if you have a pin hole leak in the expansion tank pipe or the radiator cap neck or the cap on the expansion tank itself the system suck air from this leak (air is lighter than water) and once the vacuum is gone the activity stops. Now as you have air in the system the water/coolant will boil - and when you check it you will find low level under the cap.

    Its quite simple
    ^^
    I understand how this whole cooling system works (though thanks for explaining it once again in detail)
    I know that once pressure in radiator exceeds the pressure written on the cap, coolant flows into the reservoir bottle and when the car cools down, the coolant is sucked back into the radiator due to vacuum. Thats the reason I asked the OP not to top up the reservoir bottle.

    The thing is if the coolant level in the reservoir bottle remains constant and coolant level in radiator lowers, then it means that there is a sucking issue.
    But if radiator is full everytime but the level of coolant in reservoir bottle is decreasing, then it means that there is some leak in the cooling system, due to which coolant in the radiator is decreased and then the radiator covers that loss of coolant from reservoir bottle. So there is no sucking issue.
    What do you say?
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedster_101 View Post
    ^^
    I understand how this whole cooling system works (though thanks for explaining it once again in detail)
    I know that once pressure in radiator exceeds the pressure written on the cap, coolant flows into the reservoir bottle and when the car cools down, the coolant is sucked back into the radiator due to vacuum. Thats the reason I asked the OP not to top up the reservoir bottle.

    The thing is if the coolant level in the reservoir bottle remains constant and coolant level in radiator lowers, then it means that there is a sucking issue.
    But if radiator is full everytime but the level of coolant in reservoir bottle is decreasing, then it means that there is some leak in the cooling system, due to which coolant in the radiator is decreased and then the radiator covers that loss of coolant from reservoir bottle. So there is no sucking issue.
    What do you say?
    In this case the leak only happens at cold to warm up.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    water body was the culprit, had it changed and things are fine now. Have to refill the coolant though , i put 2 liters of Caltex coolant just a week ago and its all wasted

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    it drained out in 2 weeks? Must be physically dropping
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Aslam-o-alikum! Friends! Can any one guide me rom where i got speed meter cable for khyber...as earlier got one and mechanic said me that its for cultus not for mhyber....if any know plz guide ...i am from Gujranwala but no prob if you gave address of lahore
    regards

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    i have purchased this cable from Mir autos gujrat last year

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    xulfiqar..... my khyber was drinking petrol and giving black smoke and mechanic said its giving kacha oil.....it gave only avg of 5 to 6 in city area.... i have changed carburetor kit but no improvement... now i have changed both butterfuly and shaft of carburetor which reduced smoke upto 50% ..... the mixture of carburetor is not giving any kind of effect either to fully tight it or loose it no changes happen on engine.... pls pls advise me

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    it drained out in 2 weeks? Must be physically dropping
    xulfiqar..... my khyber was drinking petrol and giving black smoke and mechanic said its giving kacha oil.....it gave only avg of 5 to 6 in city area.... i have changed carburetor kit but no improvement... now i have changed both butterfuly and shaft of carburetor which reduced smoke upto 50% ..... the mixture of carburetor is not giving any kind of effect either to fully tight it or loose it no changes happen on engine.... pls pls advise me

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    Aslam-o-alikum! ACMAATIF! i also own a khyber which drunk too much, i not think so that you believe, but it happen with me that it drunk 7 liter in 20KM main road drive. OK now came to your ride...are you tight mixture screw by your self? if so then by which tool and which screw..I mean the outer one or inner one....outer one is freely moved around the inner one..you need to loose inner one with the help of tester or flat screw driver. 2ndly check air intake that there should be no leakage in this area...Regards
    I am junior member and have no most mechanical background but keep interest in mechanical work of my khyber and believe on DIY

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    Quote Originally Posted by gujartaj View Post
    Aslam-o-alikum! Friends! Can any one guide me rom where i got speed meter cable for khyber...as earlier got one and mechanic said me that its for cultus not for mhyber....if any know plz guide ...i am from Gujranwala but no prob if you gave address of lahore
    regards
    purchased one day before local made. fitting proper nahe aate gear box main rs 320
    i suggest purchase a original one . rs 500
    swift ki tip flat ho ge r khyber ki round shape main

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    Default new led

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    Quote Originally Posted by acmaatif View Post
    xulfiqar..... my khyber was drinking petrol and giving black smoke and mechanic said its giving kacha oil.....it gave only avg of 5 to 6 in city area.... i have changed carburetor kit but no improvement... now i have changed both butterfuly and shaft of carburetor which reduced smoke upto 50% ..... the mixture of carburetor is not giving any kind of effect either to fully tight it or loose it no changes happen on engine.... pls pls advise me
    If your idle mixture is not affecting anything, you have a bad idle circuit in the carburettor - find a better carburettor mechanic and get him to clean out the top hat of the carburettor, its probably plugged in the idle emulsification circuit and all fuel is being sucked from the main primary circuit - specially if you rebuilt the throttle plates.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    If your idle mixture is not affecting anything, you have a bad idle circuit in the carburettor - find a better carburettor mechanic and get him to clean out the top hat of the carburettor, its probably plugged in the idle emulsification circuit and all fuel is being sucked from the main primary circuit - specially if you rebuilt the throttle plates.
    dont got it xulfiqar bhai....... i think u r telling about reopening of top carburetor and refitiing it...... is it so.... can it be due to mixture size. is something missing in carb or not fitted properly..... or vaccume pipe fitting problem is effecting this]

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