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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    you said that the idle mixture is not affecting anything - this is bad, it means that something else than the idle circuit is making the engine idle - the only circuit that is above the idle circuit is the primary jet circuit - the secondary jet circuit is above both.

    The top hat of the carburettor has tiny air passages in it to "foam" the fuel and be properly utilised in the idle circuit at the throttle opening. If it is plugged - the fuel quantity increases ten fold as raw liquid is sucked (black smoke). If its clean then recheck the float height for correct working and also check that the throats are installed correctly - infact the engine should idle even with primary and secondary jets blocked. The idle circuit takes care of that.

    how a carby works

    1 - idle speed = idle to fast idle rpm
    2 - 1000 rpm to midrange - 3000 rpm plus idle circuit (primary throttle open, secondary closed)
    3 - 3000 - 6000 rpm = secondary circuit plus primary circuit plus idle circuit. (both throttles opened fully)
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Zulfiqar Bhai, Are you talking about the two copper/bronze ports each in primary and secondary bore. They both lead to the fuel bowl. I thought it is meant to push fuel in to jets.

    Self Tunning  Khyber G10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -1386739

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    No, he's talking about the top hat of the carby..looking at the pic you posted it is the top part which can be removed by unscrewing the top 5 or 6 screws..which would reveal the float bowl and you'd be able to remove the venturies as well..

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    Default Top hat of Carb.

    Top Hat of carb.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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    In the pic i posted, i was refering to the air passages that @zulfiqar mentioned in his last two posts which he said the tiny air passages are there to "foam" the fuel.

    "The top hat of the carburettor has tiny air passages in it to "foam" the fuel and be properly utilised in the idle circuit at the throttle opening. If it is plugged - the fuel quantity increases ten fold as raw liquid is sucked (black smoke)"

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    Zulfiqar Bhai, Are you talking about the two copper/bronze ports each in primary and secondary bore. They both lead to the fuel bowl. I thought it is meant to push fuel in to jets.

    Self Tunning  Khyber G10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -1386739
    The two bronze colored slanted ports are float vents

    Self Tunning  Khyber G10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -1388023


    this is the carby hat bit - use very strong carby cleaner to clean the air passages.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Why does receiver drier sight glass gets permanently heavy fogged, even with ac off?
    Attached Images Attached Images   

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    It may be because of access of refrigerant oil (PAG) in the system.

    Have you installed a new sealed dryer while fitting the AC system in your car?

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    the drier was changed with a new one.

    i got it checked, there is little amount of residue left in the AC pipes, after its flushing(with CTC), which is sticking to sight glass.

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    to check the resistance of ignition coil, do I have to unplug any wire other than the high tension wire (that goes from coil to distributor)?.
    do i have to disconnect negative battery terminal or any other wire?

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    @Hitman1
    No other wire removal required just the HT for secondary coil resistance.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using PW Forums mobile app

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    Thanks.
    PMed U , these tools are easily available at few specialized dealers at Brandreth Road (Lahore) with huge price differences so it is advisable to check from a couple of shops before buying.
    price?
    Veni, Vedi, Vici

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    This thread is pure gold for khyber owners. Extremely helpful.

    Resistance test.
    Sumitomo plug wires (at 20 k ohm setting)
    HT lead 10.6
    14.3 , 12.5, 11.6

    Coil denso 12V OEM.
    14k ohm
    1.3 ohm (after deducting .3 resistance between multimeter two probes)


    Are these within range?

    How much variation in plug wires readings is acceptable?

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    can anyone explain wich one r the exaust and wich ones r intake valves????

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    Guys i have a missing issue with my khyber. It usually misses on lower rpm and does it in every gear. I cleaned, adjusting spark plug gap to 0.75mm and even changed the plugs but no improvement.......wires were changed with Sumitomo japanese ones but no difference in missing........coil was recently changed earlier this year as previous one had gotten weak and in the cold mornings of winter car would take 2-4 selfs to start(it still does though in winter). When accelerating and at high rpm it can't be felt at all but low rpm driving is not smooth. My driving is mostly cruising at 60kmph on 4th gear. Any help would be appreciated.

    My mechanic cleaned the pins on the new coil and the distributor cap with sandpaper.......is this the right way to clean them?

    Also, while turning the car off the engine hesitates to die and shakes a little before completely dying.

    I would really like a detailed exp on how to fix it D.I.Y as i don't want to go to mechanic who will fix 1 problem and create 10 more.

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    get a new distributor cap, it is not supposed to be cleaned

    the symptom where the engine does not immediately shut off after ignition is switched off is called dieselling, your fuel cut solenoid might be bad resulting in this problem

    80% of the time the tappets are set wrong so that needs to be redone, by an expert or the owner himself

    the timing must be at factory spec if you want to run it at petrol and you need to check the timing advance with a timing gun
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    @margallar Thanks for the quick response.
    Any idea how much and where i can get the cap from new?
    Where is the fuel cut solenoid located? Can i adjust it or would i have to replace it?

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    the cap is a very common item available at most shops.

    ask some one to switch the ignition off and on many times, if you hear a click sound from the carb every time then the solenoid should be good, it is replaced if it is bad, no adjustment or repairs possible. it cuts off the fuel flow in the idle circuits
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    the cap is a very common item available at most shops.

    ask some one to switch the ignition off and on many times, if you hear a click sound from the carb every time then the solenoid should be good, it is replaced if it is bad, no adjustment or repairs possible. it cuts off the fuel flow in the idle circuits
    Thanks.
    Ok i'll try to find it and see if it solves the missing issue.
    Yes i can hear the click sound so the solenoid should be good. The 'dieselling' happens occasionally. Does the idle adjustment have anything to do with this?

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    i am not so sure about the idle setting, but first of all check the two wires that plug into the carb, maybe they are damaged, what is the history of this car's carburetor?

    and also try another thing

    start the car on petrol and leave it at idle, unplug the carburetor's wiring connector, tell us if it stalls or keeps idling
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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