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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    xulifiqar bhai whats the purpose of choke breaker.khyber has manual choke
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    xulifiqar bhai whats the purpose of choke breaker.khyber has manual choke
    It only opens the plate slightly to let a little air pass when the engine starts on choke.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Thanks a lot Xulfiqar bhai. Today, I adjusted rpms accordingly and also corrected the diaphragms connections.

    How do we clean blower fan motor resistor?
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    In my khyber the no. 1 was not present and the no. 4 was used as AC-idle-up. But xulfiqar has discussed in detail.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hitman1 View Post
    Thanks a lot Xulfiqar bhai. Today, I adjusted rpms accordingly and also corrected the diaphragms connections.

    How do we clean blower fan motor resistor?
    degreaser (soap) and water, dry thoroughly and put back into service.


    Please do not be aggressive with it as the coils may break.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Regarding carburetor vacuums connections, I have few questions, as I got few wrong connections.

    1) Choke breaker (3) is not connected. Where to connect it?

    2) Dashpot connection and it's screw adjustment, as rpms decrease quickly when foot from accelerator is taken off. While revving engine and upon suction (by mouth), the blue pin moves inwards (to the right).

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    For further clarification, the pictures were taken with engine off.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    the hot idle compensator the the rectangle piece on top of the carb that has one vacuum pipe connected to the mouth from the top and one pipe at the bottom going to the throttle butterfly.

    It operates by engine heat - the heated air opens its thermostatic plate inside it - adding a little additional air to lean out the mixture reducing petrol consumption and emmissions.

    Check it by blowing through a cold one - it should be blocked - a hot one should allow slight air inlet.
    (6) is hot idle compensator. With cold engine, its blocked both ways (suction, blow). Which number is throttle butterfly?

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    Where do 6,7 and 8 connect?

    What are names of 9 and 10?
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    The dashpot plunger is to be in contact with the screw, rather it should press a little further. When the engine starts the plunger pulls inward. When you increase the rpm, the plunger comes out quickly. When throttle is released, it is held by this plunger a little and then the plunger slowly goes inward, thus decreasing the rpm slowly but only near the idle rpm.

    I think you can adjust it for your ease now.

    No. 6 is to be connected such that it bypass a little amount of air to lean out the mixture when the engine is hot enough. Leaving it open will let the dirty air go into the carb top and also disturb the idle.

    No 9 looks a mixture set screw to me. And 10 is a port that is plugged.

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    Quote Originally Posted by metalhead View Post
    The dashpot plunger is to be in contact with the screw, rather it should press a little further. When the engine starts the plunger pulls inward. When you increase the rpm, the plunger comes out quickly. When throttle is released, it is held by this plunger a little and then the plunger slowly goes inward, thus decreasing the rpm slowly but only near the idle rpm.

    I think you can adjust it for your ease now.

    No. 6 is to be connected such that it bypass a little amount of air to lean out the mixture when the engine is hot enough. Leaving it open will let the dirty air go into the carb top and also disturb the idle.

    No 9 looks a mixture set screw to me. And 10 is a port that is plugged.
    Thanks a lot.
    I just swapped ( 7 ) and ( 8 ) pipes and now dashpot pin/plunger moves inwards on idle and outwards in high rpms. Adjusted its clearance to 1 mm. Before, it was working opposite. The "so called carburetor expert" connected them all wrong!.

    I closed (6) temporarily until I get to know the exact connection points.

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    @Xulfiqar, how to check the carburetor's throttle body/ butterfly
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    hot idle compensator connects to a port near the mixture screw and should be below the throttles, to me it looks like the one that is blocked.

    The dashpot should have no clearance at all - it infact pushes the throttle plate about 1 mm when the engine is shut off.
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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    @Xulfiqar, how to check the carburetor's throttle body/ butterfly
    rotate the arm and try to wiggle it. If its moving then the bushings are worn, in worst cases it causes the engine to idle badly.
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    Yesterday my Khyber's electronic fuel pump gave up.
    I installed this electronic fuel pump around 3 years ago because the car was/is on CNG, the diaphragm of mechanical fuel pump was leaked.

    What I have figured out is that these after market electronic pumps, installed in engine bay for carby cars are not at all reliable. They can give up anytime. Plus the noise of dug dug dug all the time.

    The car was running on CNG earlier but with the current CNG situation, it is not possible to find CNG.
    What do you recommend, should I go for the mechanical pump or electronic one?

    With mechanical pump, a solenoid valve is installed which blocks the petrol supply when car is on CNG. I removed that solenoid when I installed electronic pump, but I still have it.
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    I would suggest to for the original mechanical pump
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    There are no vaccum pipes ( small black pipes from hat type things may b dashpots of carby) connected in my carby. Nd m tooo much mad with carby.

    Sent from my HUAWEI G610-U20 using PW Forums mobile app

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    Kindly tell me the correct pipe connection

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    I m.having one prob. My engine isnt stable on petrol. But if i totally block the air from air cleaner, rpm increases nd it gets smoother. I removed the cleaner, put a hand on the bore of carby while engine was running, it gets smoother as already told. I was thnking that carby is taking air from some place in aircleaner. But after removing aircleaner, it seems like carby is getting air from somewhere else. Any suggetions?

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    I have re-operated ac a few days back, ac mechanic (abubakar from universal ac) asked me to tell my mechanic to install ac switch or pump( To upgrade the rpm when car is on signals or stopped) like thing. My mechanic said there is no such thing =-O. Wot does this means?

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