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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    Quote Originally Posted by shaidbokhari View Post
    But u said any type will work. By the way, for activating pods, switch shld block or release vaccum?

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    Quote Originally Posted by shaidbokhari View Post
    I bought this one.

    Sent from my HUAWEI G610-U20 using PW Forums mobile app
    that big round thingy is a filter
    when the svs is off you should be able to blow in from the left horizontal pipe (with ref to the picture) and out from the filter
    no air should come out the vertical nozzle

    once the svs is on you should be able to blow from the left nozzle in and out the vertical nozzle - no air should come out from the filter

    if either case is bad you get a new svs
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    Quote Originally Posted by DUDE007 View Post
    Is the circled screw also called the mixture screw? My khyber is running rich as plugs are black but there is no black smoke while running(except for cold starts) so how should i turn it to make the mixture leaner? @Xulfiqar @smijaz @cracked
    Self Tunning  Khyber G10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -1460811
    yes that is the mixture screw

    no you don't screw with it unless your ignition system is upto mark including ignition timing and spark plug cables - a good air filter - all vacuum lines correctly installed with no vacuum leak

    does your car have auto choke?
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    Quote Originally Posted by syncview View Post
    tap into the ac compressor for signal
    so when you turn ac on the svs will open

    connect a vacuum line from intake manifold to the svs to the ac idle up vacuum pod

    what happens is when you turn ac on, the vacuum sucks the vacuum pod plunger up increasing / maintaining idle speed
    Can u see ac idle up solenoid in these pictures? Sorry for upside down picture. Ist picture is from front, 2nd is from backside

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    @syncview nd there are two holes in intake manifold. One will be conncted with svs, which will cause other to leave opened, wot to do with that?

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    Quote Originally Posted by shaidbokhari View Post
    Can u see ac idle up solenoid in these pictures? Sorry for upside down picture. Ist picture is from front, 2nd is from backside

    Sent from my HUAWEI G610-U20 using PW Forums mobile app
    the pictures are confusing and useless for me


    Quote Originally Posted by shaidbokhari View Post
    @syncview nd there are two holes in intake manifold. One will be conncted with svs, which will cause other to leave opened, wot to do with that?

    Sent from my HUAWEI G610-U20 using PW Forums mobile app
    how is that possible?
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    Quote Originally Posted by DUDE007 View Post
    Is the circled screw also called the mixture screw? My khyber is running rich as plugs are black but there is no black smoke while running(except for cold starts) so how should i turn it to make the mixture leaner? @Xulfiqar @smijaz @cracked
    Self Tunning  Khyber G10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -1460811
    That screw can only adjust the idle mixture setting. It cannot help with partial or full load fuelling. If your carburettor is running rich then before any setting - ensure the ignition system is A-OK and the tappet gaps etc are correct.

    If all are good then you need to open the carby and clean it up. Most probably the emulsification circuits are clogged.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    your pictures have markings of dashpot 1 and 2 - they are not dashpot.

    the thing you are calling dashpot 1 is choke breaker and what you call dashpot 2 is secondary throttle opener. The real dashpot is on the other side of the carburettor and has a plastic plunger, the last vacuum pod which is on top of the carby is the electric load idle up.

    Your carburettor is missing the A/C idle up vacuum pod - its from a model that did not have factory A/C. Buy the vacuum pod and install it on the carby. Mechanics and scrappies call it "adlap vekum"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    your pictures have markings of dashpot 1 and 2 - they are not dashpot.

    the thing you are calling dashpot 1 is choke breaker and what you call dashpot 2 is secondary throttle opener. The real dashpot is on the other side of the carburettor and has a plastic plunger, the last vacuum pod which is on top of the carby is the electric load idle up.

    Your carburettor is missing the A/C idle up vacuum pod - its from a model that did not have factory A/C. Buy the vacuum pod and install it on the carby. Mechanics and scrappies call it "adlap vekum"
    Yes. I was also feeling so :-) that atleast one of em is missing.
    Plz reffer from where i can purchase adlap vekum :-P nd how to connect it? means is there any place to fit it ?

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    I thnk the pod on right side with rod is actual dashpot. It has a plastic type pin in it

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    Quote Originally Posted by shaidbokhari View Post
    Yes. I was also feeling so :-) that atleast one of em is missing.
    Plz reffer from where i can purchase adlap vekum :-P nd how to connect it? means is there any place to fit it ?

    Sent from my HUAWEI G610-U20 using PW Forums mobile app

    Proper A/C shops would have it, you can buy it from the scrappies or even brand new. Tell them you need it for Khyber carburettor - once you have it in your hands you will see how it fits.
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    I am in kind of a fix with the float setting of my car's carburetor.

    When I adjust it according to Factroy specs, fuel does not go into float chamber and when I increases the gap, the engine starts but does not idle. I cleaned the idle air passages in the top hat of the carb, bypassed the idle cutoff solenoid, cleaned and double checked the idle jet and its o ring, Also cleaned the primary venturi booster circuit. I am sure of every thing but the float setting and level of fuel in the float chamber.

    What do you think should I increase the fuel level in the float chamber to resolve the idling issue.

    Currently the fuel level is just above the main restriction jets and touches the base of power valve.

    Plz guide...

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    Quote Originally Posted by shaidbokhari View Post
    Can u see ac idle up solenoid in these pictures? Sorry for upside down picture. Ist picture is from front, 2nd is from backside

    Sent from my HUAWEI G610-U20 using PW Forums mobile app
    connect what you call daspot 1 (choke breaker) to nozzle 3
    in pic 2 the hot idle compensator (rectangular thing on top back of the carb) is connected incorrectly to the distributor advance port connect it to your nozzle 4
    in pic 2 the right vacuum pot (dashpot) should be connect to the vacant nozzle (as you say)

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    I am in kind of a fix with the float setting of my car's carburetor.

    When I adjust it according to Factroy specs, fuel does not go into float chamber and when I increases the gap, the engine starts but does not idle. I cleaned the idle air passages in the top hat of the carb, bypassed the idle cutoff solenoid, cleaned and double checked the idle jet and its o ring, Also cleaned the primary venturi booster circuit. I am sure of every thing but the float setting and level of fuel in the float chamber.

    What do you think should I increase the fuel level in the float chamber to resolve the idling issue.

    Currently the fuel level is just above the main restriction jets and touches the base of power valve.

    Plz guide...

    Fuel is blocked off if you adjust to factory setting?
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Ac idle up vaccum pod will be like these alternator load vp. Is it so?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Fuel is blocked off if you adjust to factory setting?
    yes. according to factory setting when the top hat of the carb is inverted and the float is allowed to press the needle valve on its own wait the gap between the carb hat surface and float should be 7 mm. But with this the needle valve does not allow fuel to get in the float chamber.. I think either the float or needle valve is not oem.

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    Today i started engine. Attached a vaccum pipe to secondry throtle v pod nd sucked. A lever behind pod moved but nothing happend. No change in rpm. Did same things with dashpot (having plunger in it) again no change in rpm. Did same wid chowk breaker but :-(. Any problem? what it shld do?

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    connect what you call daspot 1 (choke breaker) to nozzle 3
    in pic 2 the hot idle compensator (rectangular thing on top back of the carb) is connected incorrectly to the distributor advance port connect it to your nozzle 4
    in pic 2 the right vacuum pot (dashpot) should be connect to the vacant nozzle (as you say)
    And what about secondary throtle vac pod, where ut will connect.l?

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    Quote Originally Posted by shaidbokhari View Post
    Today i started engine. Attached a vaccum pipe to secondry throtle v pod nd sucked. A lever behind pod moved but nothing happend. No change in rpm. Did same things with dashpot (having plunger in it) again no change in rpm. Did same wid chowk breaker but :-(. Any problem? what it shld do?

    Sent from my HUAWEI G610-U20 using PW Forums mobile app

    The secondary throttle will open the throttle plate when the throttle is more than 40% open, it actually has a locking gate in the mechanism, there would be no change at idle speed at all.

    The dashpot has a slow release valve in the vacuum pipe, it works by "holding" the throttle open for a few moments after you have let go of the accelerator. You cannot test it at idle speed with your mouth. You need the slow release piece in the vacuum line for it to work.

    The choke breaker is only activated when you start the engine with choke pulled out. It opens the choke plate slightly to let air in otherwise the engine will stall. Testing for rpm change is not valid on this item.
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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    yes. according to factory setting when the top hat of the carb is inverted and the float is allowed to press the needle valve on its own wait the gap between the carb hat surface and float should be 7 mm. But with this the needle valve does not allow fuel to get in the float chamber.. I think either the float or needle valve is not oem.

    Thats the only possibility I can think of too. Or your needle valve damping is bad, The valve has an internal spring system that keeps the float level correct when the car moves or tilts.
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    Quote Originally Posted by shaidbokhari View Post
    Today i started engine. Attached a vaccum pipe to secondry throtle v pod nd sucked. A lever behind pod moved but nothing happend. No change in rpm. Did same things with dashpot (having plunger in it) again no change in rpm. Did same wid chowk breaker but :-(. Any problem? what it shld do?

    Sent from my HUAWEI G610-U20 using PW Forums mobile app
    There is no problem.. they all do not work on idle engine.. on idle engine secondary throttle wont open unless the primary throttle is open more than 60 % there is a mechanism that stops the secondary to open before that. Choke breaker is to break choke and avoid engine to stall when ck=hoke is aplied. Dashpot is there to stop sudden decceration when you lift your foot of the throttle..

    Edit
    (just saw the Xulfiqar's response for the same post so bet on that )

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