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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    @speedster_101

    Then some resistance might have been developed in wire or connections.

    Turn the ignition key on ON and wait 2 to 3 minutes then take a snap of the current fuel gauge needle position. Now check by disconnecting and directly grounding the wire from the fuel gauge (on the fuel tank Beneath the Back Seat) to a clean body surface. With the ignition key on ON check the fuel gauge needle if it goes to 100% it means wire and gauge is OK. Clean the contact on the float sensor and connect. Check for any difference in the position of the needle.
    I'll definitely try this.
    BTW in my Corolla, the fuel gauge and the temperature gauge instantly jumps up as soon as the key is turned on, where as in my Khyber the process is quite slow. If the tank is almost full then it would move to 60% mark in 20 seconds and after 4~5 minutes it would show the actual reading. Can this be caused due to a dirty contact point?


    Quote Originally Posted by speedster_101 View Post
    Here the issue is different. I have this car for around 14 years now. The gauge used to be at top when the tank was full.
    BTW the fuel tank capacity of Khyber is 33L. The owner manual which came with PakSuzuki Khyber states that.
    Exact issue with my car.
    It used to go all the way to the F mark when the tank was topped up, but now it wont.
    After filling up the tank, and driving the car for almost 5~6 minutes, it comes up to this position.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DUDE007 View Post
    @Xulfiqar @smijaz @metalhead @cracked @speedster_101 @margallar @daniyalahmad
    Guys i experienced something scary today.
    I was cruising at 60kmph when a traffic stop was near. I applied the brakes from a distance as i don't brake hard. The odd part is that the brake pedal seemed to move further in as i pressed it. So i pressed it down at a moment to realize that it was going all the way down to brake. It felt like the brakes failed and i was about to panic when i lifted my foot all the way up and pressed again; the brakes felt much tighter now and the pedal didn't go all the way down. All this happened in a few seconds.

    Afterwards i parked the car and shut it off, pressed the brakes a few times and started it with the brakes applied. I did this to check the booster and it worked fine i.e pedal went slightly down. This happened only once in the 10km i drove.

    Where is the bleed screw on the disc and drum brake? What will be the procedure of bleeding i.e do i press the pedal, loosen the screw to let air out then tighten it once all air is out and finally release the brake pedal?

    I'd appreciate a quick reply as my safety is at great risk.
    You can find it easily once you remove the wheels. it is covered by a small rubber boot/cap.
    It is visible in the picture uploaded by @fady, however I'd second @margallar that don't mess with the brakes yourself. My car had an accident just because of the improper brake distribution force, so let a professional take care of the brakes for you.
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    @daniyalahmad thanks for replying. The shop showed me Dunlop digi eco and yokohama s707; i went for yoko as they felt softer. Both are equally good i guess.

    I am aware of the stock tire size but 165/70/12 seems to be more popular. Any idea how much does this size affect speedometer reading and consumption?

    Edit: found the bleed valve today but decided not to fiddle with it until i ger some help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DUDE007 View Post
    @daniyalahmad thanks for replying. The shop showed me Dunlop digi eco and yokohama s707; i went for yoko as they felt softer. Both are equally good i guess.

    I am aware of the stock tire size but 165/70/12 seems to be more popular. Any idea how much does this size affect speedometer reading and consumption?

    Some years back when I wanted to upgrade from 145/80/12 to 165/70/12 I was in a similar situation.
    If you'll be retaining the 12" wheels then only a 0.5 mm difference will occur in the total dia (the rim+rubber part)
    So inappropriate speedometer readings shouldn't be an issue.
    You can calculate the variation here. Speedometer Calibration Calculator And Information


    IMHO Yokohama, if original is a better option. I wanted to get Yokohama but back in those days it was not available in the required size and profile in 12" so opted for Dunlop. Anyways I didn't felt any hardness in the steering because of these 165s, neither did I notice any significant change in the fuel consumption, however the braking improved a lot.
    The only disadvantage was the swell in the sidewalls, due to mounting 165s on 4" stock steel wheels.

    This might be helpful.
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/whe...ometer-reading
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    I have been using Yokohama S707 165/70 12 inch for the last four years. Very good soft tire. But I recommend 145/70 or 145/80 size.

    With 165/70, the problem I face is that tire sidewall sometimes touches the body which is very dangerous. Because of that I have to use very hard springs.

    These days, i see smuggled deshaped new tires in market. Do they pose any risk? Doesnt the metal strings in tire get permanently bent?

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    ^ Which ones touch the body? Front ones or the rear ones?
    I've been running the same combination for almost 5 years now but never encountered any such issue. Even with 6 persons on board, sometimes the rear suspension would get fully compressed on bumps but tyres never touched the body or sidewall.
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    Rear ones, and sometimes front ones.

    i observed that yokohama s707 has rounded/curved sidewalls (which increases overall tire width) and dunlop SP sport 470 has squared/flat sidewalls. I never faced such issue with dunlop 165/70/12. The problem started the first day i bought yokohama tires.

    Will post a picture later for further clarification.

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    ^ Sure!
    Do post them. I know people who have been running 175/70/13 and never encountered any such issue, so wanted to know. Moreover I was also thinking to upgrade to 175/70/13 and I'm using the original springs with KYB Shock Absorbers at front and back, par tum ne pareshan kr diya mujhe.
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    Quote Originally Posted by axe.effect View Post
    I have been using Yokohama S707 165/70 12 inch for the last four years. Very good soft tire. But I recommend 145/70 or 145/80 size.

    With 165/70, the problem I face is that tire sidewall sometimes touches the body which is very dangerous. Because of that I have to use very hard springs.

    These days, i see smuggled deshaped new tires in market. Do they pose any risk? Doesnt the metal strings in tire get permanently bent?
    I am using 165/70/12 for the last 12 years in my Suzuki Khyber with different brands like Bridgestone, Yokohama and Hankook. The sidewalls never touched the body.
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    Quote Originally Posted by axe.effect View Post
    These days, i see smuggled deshaped new tires in market. Do they pose any risk? Doesnt the metal strings in tire get permanently bent?
    Of-course!
    I once read this somewhere "Choose wisely while selecting tyres, as these are the only contact points with the road" so I'd say NO to these tyres. Moreover my father always got brand new tyres for our cars and he told me that before purchasing tyres always inspect the manufacturing date and the softness in the rubber.
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    Turn the ignition key on ON and wait 2 to 3 minutes then take a snap of the current fuel gauge needle position. Now check by disconnecting and directly grounding the wire from the fuel gauge (on the fuel tank Beneath the Back Seat) to a clean body surface. With the ignition key on ON check the fuel gauge needle if it goes to 100% it means wire and gauge is OK. Clean the contact on the float sensor and connect. Check for any difference in the position of the needle.
    So Ijaz Bhai I did this today after getting the tank filled.
    I took pictures after driving around 2 km of filling up the tank, with the engine running, then removed the seat, removed the rubber and then removed the contact point. It was dirty. Then I grounded the wire directly with the body without cleaning it and the gauge went to 100%. I cleaned both the contact points with sand paper and then soaked them in kerosine oil for a good hour or so. Also cleaned the rubber used for insulation. After that when I connected them the gauge returned to its favourite position (the earlier position) -_-
    Attached Images Attached Images     
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    @daniyal ahmed, i always noticed that your car's speedo has very bright green light, is it stock? whatever it is, it looks really good
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    ^ Thank-you!
    Yup its stock, no leds, no nothing. Its still illuminated by the 2 bulbs which still have the green rubber cover on them. I only cleaned it some 3 years back when the dashboard was opened, rest nothing ever done to it.
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    how much kmpl you get daniyal in local?
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    ^ Normally it did 12~13 km/litre in city without AC but my mechanic tooned it for economy so now its giving around 15 km/litre without AC.

    However the acceleration has dropped significantly, the car gets sluggish with AC switched on, on every speed bump where it easily picked up pace in 2nd gear with no tappat noise, now it needs to be shifted to 1st gear on such speed bumps. With the car loaded and AC switched on, you need to rev it to high rpms before up-shifting. The start-up takes quite long, and you need to pull the choke in order to start it. The engine vibrates abnormally for the first 60~100 seconds abnormally without choke. Recently I was on motorway and the car won't go above 140 km/h, no matter what.
    The accelerator pedal has become somewhat hard and feels as if its taking a lot of friction (as in cars running on CNG) Previously it was really smooth and effortless.
    Is this kind of setting, to attain better fuel economy harmful for the engine in the long run?
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    btw its my khyber's engine bay :-P n these plug wires r for honda civic


    Quote Originally Posted by Xplorer View Post
    There is an o ring on the neck of the distributor that fits inside the engine head. Oil is leaking from that o ring. It can be easily replace in 10 min. Remove all the cables from cap (don't open the cap), open 2 or 3 bolts on the base of the distributor (see pic) and gently pull the whole distributor unit. Replace the ring, apply some engine oil on it and gently push the distributor at it place.
    Self Tunning  Khyber G10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -1466282

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    Rear tires sidewall hit more often, in heavy load.
    First picture - that thing touches the sidewall.

    Second picture - the body touches sidewall below red line. A mark of hit can be seen.

    Tires pressure: 32 psi

    Front
    Shocks: Oil filled (hard setting, on demand).
    Springs: OEM

    Rear
    Shocks: Gabreil (they are softer than OEM Tokico).
    Springs: Civic 2000 petrol ones.

    165/70/12 Bridgestone B70 and dunlop sp sport 490 sidewall does not touch body. I rechecked today by swapping tires from cousins car.

    Any economical solution for this?
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    Rear tires sidewall hit more often, in heavy load.
    First picture - that thing touches the sidewall.

    Second picture - the body touches sidewall below red line. A mark of hit can be seen.

    Tires pressure: 32 psi
    The tyre seems to be stretched too much in the pictures as if you're using a wider rim. The tread shoulders in my car aren't that much stretched, in fact even with 165s I sometimes feel that the rear wheel well needs something more wide.
    I might me wrong but IMHO try changing the rims to 4.5" or at most 5" with the same tyres and then check for the same issue. The sidewalls are never this much close to the chassis.
    What about your cousin's car? Is he using steel wheels or alloys? If he is using steel wheels then try mounting your car's tyres on those wheels and then compare the results.
    Also keep the air pressure at 30 psi.

    Front
    Shocks: Oil filled (hard setting, on demand).
    Springs: OEM

    Rear
    Shocks: Gabreil (they are softer than OEM Tokico).
    Springs: Civic 2000 petrol ones.
    OEM is KYB, Both front and rear.
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by daniyalahmad View Post
    ^ Normally it did 12~13 km/litre in city without AC but my mechanic tooned it for economy so now its giving around 15 km/litre without AC.

    However the acceleration has dropped significantly, the car gets sluggish with AC switched on, on every speed bump where it easily picked up pace in 2nd gear with no tappat noise, now it needs to be shifted to 1st gear on such speed bumps. With the car loaded and AC switched on, you need to rev it to high rpms before up-shifting. The start-up takes quite long, and you need to pull the choke in order to start it. The engine vibrates abnormally for the first 60~100 seconds abnormally without choke. Recently I was on motorway and the car won't go above 140 km/h, no matter what.
    The accelerator pedal has become somewhat hard and feels as if its taking a lot of friction (as in cars running on CNG) Previously it was really smooth and effortless.
    Is this kind of setting, to attain better fuel economy harmful for the engine in the long run?
    Seems like it is running too lean, bad for the engine
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    Quote Originally Posted by daniyalahmad View Post
    So Ijaz Bhai I did this today after getting the tank filled.
    I took pictures after driving around 2 km of filling up the tank, with the engine running, then removed the seat, removed the rubber and then removed the contact point. It was dirty. Then I grounded the wire directly with the body without cleaning it and the gauge went to 100%. I cleaned both the contact points with sand paper and then soaked them in kerosine oil for a good hour or so. Also cleaned the rubber used for insulation. After that when I connected them the gauge returned to its favourite position (the earlier position) -_-
    So the problem is not solved. Right?
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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