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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    Quote Originally Posted by axe.effect View Post
    Carburetor cleaner spray 150 rs.
    Tried and tested. Works most of the time.

    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/sho....php?p=4472200

    Post 2170 and 2176.
    i have spray but its not working this time

    Sent from my HUAWEI G610-U20 using PW Forums mobile app

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    it is not slow switch,its called a fuel cut off solenoid.

    seems like the passages in your carburetor
    s hat are dirty, i think you should get a small fuel filter and install it right before the carburetor, the transparent type
    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc) - images?qtbnANd9GcSRLSFcUsZlWn6c TpjScIdnOq61283h o6cNWQ63mg87lQtcKTiw
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    @shaidbokhari

    If its been opened that many times then a lot could be wrong with it. Just get a used but unopened carb rather than spending more on this one. But before you do that make sure engine is mechanically sound. Done any compression testing or checked manifold vacuum?
    Selling Vitz+local cars - compatible bluetooth Ecu Scantool, High-amp car chargers, Apple-certified Lightning Cables, etc. Click on my name and see my started threads for details.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shaidbokhari View Post
    M too much tired of this carby issues. It again seems sliw jet issue...tanki replaced, lines cleared, fuel filters, serviced carby after all that...and its again slow jet issue....any solution

    Sent from my HUAWEI G610-U20 using PW Forums mobile app


    I hope you use spray with the straw like thing provided with it. If the car runs fine after service for few weeks, then to me (being a beginner), it looks like you need to focus more on 'filtration' process of fuel.

    Like margallar mentioned, I saw double fuel filters in some cars, which was installed right after fuel pump outlet pipe.

    Spray carburetor cleaner every week or every two weeks, even if the car works fine.

    Avoid keeping fuel level lower than quarter, as all the residue settles down at the bottom of fuel tank.

    Change petrol station too. F-6 Super Market Caltex pump has clean and better quality petrol.

    For now, check all vacuum pipes first, especially the ones on red thing (intake manifold). They maybe leaking, causing idling problems.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shaidbokhari View Post
    It is serviced many times by diff mechanics...even by badar butterfly maker...but it wont run smooth longer...after evrry 2-4 mnth, it start messing up...these mechanic suggested me to chnge tank, lines, nd service. All changed but again stuck at that problem..
    Now if i start the car with foot on accelerator, it start easily....but it shuts of as soon as i picked foot from acclrtr....i tried adjusting through mixture...by dashpot...but it doesnt worked....
    I also thought that its problem of rpm adjstmnt at idling, made em higher by the screw at carby...rpm inreased a lot but it dont start without putting foot on acclrtr... nd shuts off after removing foot....
    I also checked disconnecting nd connctng of slow switch...its working fine...

    Sent from my HUAWEI G610-U20 using PW Forums mobile app
    i also have tried all of this but. didnt work.
    so i go for CD 70 Carb..
    as you all see it seems very difficult.
    but when i have done it. the result is far more good. then wasting time and money on repairing old carb.
    the pic is very good.. tyres spins... but the car does not cross the speed of 110. and i think its more then enough..

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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    0-70 in 4 minutes, exceeding 100kph results in blown engine
    if you need your car to go to 0-70 with in 1 sec you must go for muscle car. not for khyber or margala.
    but i can say my car goes to 0-70km/h with in 30 sec. and it goes to 110km/hr and not result in blown engine.
    if you have and queries about the performance of car. you can visit me in rawalpindi or in saraialamgir, (gujrat) at Alamgir Computerized wheel alignment. G.T. Road, Saraialamgir.

    Adnan Raja

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    Found a person who is using the same CD70 setup near my area. Going for a test drive, will update the results soon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by drar786 View Post
    i also have tried all of this but. didnt work.
    so i go for CD 70 Carb..
    as you all see it seems very difficult.
    but when i have done it. the result is far more good. then wasting time and money on repairing old carb.
    the pic is very good.. tyres spins... but the car does not cross the speed of 110. and i think its more then enough..
    you need to find a mechanic through the eyes of experience and quality and not through the eyes of your pocket. Usually a seasoned carby mechanic wont be low cost.

    btw - these carburettors are dirt simple to setup - what sort of mechanic did you visit that could not set it up. Did you visit a parts swapper?
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by drar786 View Post
    if you need your car to go to 0-70 with in 1 sec you must go for muscle car. not for khyber or margala.
    but i can say my car goes to 0-70km/h with in 30 sec. and it goes to 110km/hr and not result in blown engine.
    if you have and queries about the performance of car. you can visit me in rawalpindi or in saraialamgir, (gujrat) at Alamgir Computerized wheel alignment. G.T. Road, Saraialamgir.

    Adnan Raja

    When in good condition a carby khyber can really run quick. Its no slouch - what you have done is best deemed as "chaloo kaam"
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    @Xulfiqar, does khyber carb have access points for the jets like the margalla one?
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    @Xulfiqar, does khyber carb have access points for the jets like the margalla one?
    Yes. For both primary and secondary through float chamber.

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    then @shaidbokhari should open those screws, let petrol drain out and then poke the carb cleaner straw into the jet, unless they are obstructed by linkages
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    then @shaidbokhari should open those screws, let petrol drain out and then poke the carb cleaner straw into the jet, unless they are obstructed by linkages
    I think his idle circuit is clogged or primary cutoff solenoid is not connected or not working or acting funny. @shaidbokhari

    Slow jet has an o ring around its upper half restricting air to pass through upper port only. Check presence and condition of this o ring.
    What is the level of fuel in float chamber. If too low this issue is due.

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    @smijaz, does you car's coil get exact battery voltage at the coil or less?
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    @smijaz, does you car's coil get exact battery voltage at the coil or less?
    It was 1.2 volts less of what was on battery terminal , I guess coz of old wiring and connectors feeding resistance. I fixed a relay now same same.

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    Where did you attach the relay, I tested three cars with the same problem
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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    Where did you attach the relay, I tested three cars with the same problem
    install relay on the outer leg of the ignition switch circuit.

    the drop you see is "suzuki quality" at its best. Their ignition switches have cheaply made contacts.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    Where did you attach the relay, I tested three cars with the same problem
    Draw a wire with fuse directly from battery positive and connect to one of the relay wire (switch) the other wire goes to the coil positive. The original coil positive will connect to relay power and the other wire left will be grounded. This way when ignition + is fed to relay the relay connects the battery + to the coil +.

    Edit: Zulfiqar idea is better. Why didn't I thought of that

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    I tested a 7 year old alto, a khyber (dude007'S), and my own margalla.

    This is so pathetic, each and every car has this problem, it probably hurts performance
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    I also want to test this coil and battery voltage. I have a DMM.

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