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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    I have a 94 khyber running on petrol and overhauled 160000kms before. From the last two months my khyber used to jerk when it was accelerated, the jerks were felt when the car was accelerating and was in between 1500-3500 rpm. Anyways I went to my mechanic and was told that the carburator is clogged and needs service, the car is not used much so I deffered the service. Now after nearly two months of this problem I went again to the mechanic and after the carbs service still the engine is jerking and the problem has now become worse. The car is not gain rpm, the engine jerks and jerks and according to the mechanic is giving back pressure in the carb.(Idle is set at 1200-1400 by the mech, is remains stable when engine is hot)
    By pulling out the spark plugs cable he has identified there is very less compression in 1 and 2 cylinder. According to him the valves are burnt and need to be changed. He adjusted the tappets a bit and after that jerks disappered a bit for 2 days now they are back.
    I went to another mechanic for a second opinoin and was told the engine needs an full overhaul. What do you think is the problem?

    P.s Car used to give smoke on cold startup (in morning) for a second, after that no issue of smoke. Tappet cover gasket has being leaking a little for almost a year now. Last winters used to throw a lot of water, still it is throwing water these days but comparatively less than the last season.

    Thanks in advance
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    @ bro, i'm not zulfiqar but i must say, you should get a compression test and check the plug wires for arcing, before anything else.
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    @ bro, i'm not zulfiqar but i must say, you should get a compression test and check the plug wires for arcing, before anything else.
    Thanks for the quick reply margallar. Will check the plug wires tommorow. About the compression test, if the valves are not working properly will the compression reading be accurate? I mean if the valves are not filling the cylinders properly at full throttle the compression readings may not reflect the actual engine health. (Just my thinking)

    Where can I get compression test done in lahore?
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    well, bad valves are a sign of bad engine health, so compression test will be accurate.

    you want to do both wet and dry compression tests, wet test tells you about the valves. google it.

    any decent place can do it, but you will have to fight for the wet test , workshops usually do not do more than a dry test
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    Is there any issue in doing the wet test for them?

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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    well, bad valves are a sign of bad engine health, so compression test will be accurate.

    you want to do both wet and dry compression tests, wet test tells you about the valves. google it.

    any decent place can do it, but you will have to fight for the wet test , workshops usually do not do more than a dry test

    Ok I'll get it done. If you know any shops near dha please let me know.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DUDE007 View Post
    Is there any issue in doing the wet test for them?
    some think it will be bad for their compression tester

    some just don't do anything they don't believe in
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    Quote Originally Posted by ahmad40 View Post
    I have a 94 khyber running on petrol and overhauled 160000kms before. From the last two months my khyber used to jerk when it was accelerated, the jerks were felt when the car was accelerating and was in between 1500-3500 rpm. Anyways I went to my mechanic and was told that the carburator is clogged and needs service, the car is not used much so I deffered the service. Now after nearly two months of this problem I went again to the mechanic and after the carbs service still the engine is jerking and the problem has now become worse. The car is not gain rpm, the engine jerks and jerks and according to the mechanic is giving back pressure in the carb.(Idle is set at 1200-1400 by the mech, is remains stable when engine is hot)
    By pulling out the spark plugs cable he has identified there is very less compression in 1 and 2 cylinder. According to him the valves are burnt and need to be changed. He adjusted the tappets a bit and after that jerks disappered a bit for 2 days now they are back.
    I went to another mechanic for a second opinoin and was told the engine needs an full overhaul. What do you think is the problem?

    P.s Car used to give smoke on cold startup (in morning) for a second, after that no issue of smoke. Tappet cover gasket has being leaking a little for almost a year now. Last winters used to throw a lot of water, still it is throwing water these days but comparatively less than the last season.

    Thanks in advance
    it might be the case that some oil from your tappet gaskit has flown into your plugs and causing these jerks by hampering the current flow.

    get the car simply tuned from Enercon. they have SOP for timing and fuel/air mixture setup. it will help and will ascertain if there is any issue with the valves since compression report will be given.

    i think there are more than one Enercon tunning outlets in lahore.

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    @Thinking i changed the plugs before to make sure they were not causing the issue but it didnt help.

    Thanks for the help guys. I checked area near dha to find a workshop to do the compression test but couldnt find one. The car was not in a position to travel far so I took two more mechanics opinion near my house. All were pretty sure the valves were causing this issue so I gave the car to my mechanic to replace valve and seals.

    At 10am I took the car to him he opened the head. The gaskit was fine (not in perfect condition because water was used for 3-4 years before I was a pakwheeler :p But no leaks) He sent the head to the lathe shop along with parts. Lathe will give it back tommorow morning. The mechanic was insisting to change the rings as well but as the car never gave smoke so I didnt agree (Hoping I made the right decision).

    He is giving me an estimate of Rs5000 for all this. Parts are going to be around Rs1500, Rs2000 lathe labour and around 1500 my mechanics labour. And yes the parts include a new head gaskit as well. Oil change is going to cost me another 2000. Any suggestion on the current job?

    Im attaching a picture of cylinders taken today. Sorry for bad quality


    Self Tunning  Khyber G10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -1527459Self Tunning  Khyber G10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -1527460
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    since the head has been opened i would suggest to change the rings too. shouldnt cost that much however they are expected to improve the compression anyway.

    M not sure car might be giving jerks due to some Kachra in the fuel intake coz the compartment is very filthy (sorry for that). U should get the engine bay cleaned properly.

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    @ahmad40

    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/sho....php?p=4615427

    What is the condition of cylinder steel liner (red) thing?. Any crack or damage in there?.

    Coolant jacket walls (yellow) and the back side of red thing are also uneven.

    I think spending much money for this head is not beneficial. So it's better not to go for rings change.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thinking View Post
    since the head has been opened i would suggest to change the rings too. shouldnt cost that much however they are expected to improve the compression anyway.

    M not sure car might be giving jerks due to some Kachra in the fuel intake coz the compartment is very filthy (sorry for that). U should get the engine bay cleaned properly.
    Yes I know its dirty because i never got it pressure washed. Fuel line was checked it was ok, so was the fuel pressure.

    Quote Originally Posted by axe.effect View Post
    @ahmad40

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc) - 137308 - Page 149

    What is the condition of cylinder steel liner (red) thing?. Any crack or damage in there?.

    Coolant jacket walls (yellow) and the back side of red thing are also uneven.

    I think spending much money for this head is not beneficial. So it's better not to go for rings change.
    The cylinder steel liner had no crack or damage. My mechanic also checked he said it needed no work. The the collant jackets had a little rust type thin layer on them but as the block is aluminium I dont think its rust. Dont know about the back side of red thing, according to mechanic everything looked fine including the gasket.

    Im still confused if I should get the rings replaced. Before two months in which this issue started, everything was perfect before that. No smoke or anything, used to drop water on cold-startup.
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    Yesterday got my car back. The tappets noise has decreased a lot. The engine is revving smooth now and accelarating as it used too. My mechanic gave an estimate of 5000 but it doubled. Here's the breakup:

    Lathe 4000
    Spare parts (Head gasket.spark plugs,one mounting,Steel water pipe going to waterbody,seals,valves) 1170
    Engine Oil 1600
    Oil filter 150
    Miscellaneous 200
    Labour 2500.

    One new issue has been diagonsed that the engine is taking air from butterfly. It needs repair too, will get it done on tuesday. Mechanic's timing gun was not working so he will adjust the timing on tuesday and will also check the tappets adjustment again.
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    Gear shifter seal is leaking. It only leaks very little bit.

    I was told that the full gearbox will be taken out and opened fully to fix it.

    Any alternative easier way to replace this seal or stop leak, by high temperature silicon etc?.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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    @axe.effect
    Better not to do anything with this seal
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    I am installing Central Locking Motors, and have properly fitted in rear doors, but not finding any place in front doors
    Please guide the suitable place for motor in front doors.
    Pics for reference:
    Self Tunning  Khyber G10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -1528713
    Self Tunning  Khyber G10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -1528714
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    @Xplorer

    Front door central locking motor/gun.

    Maybe there is some more suitable place.

    I read an interesting thing related to doors.

    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/sho....php?p=4127899
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    @axe.effect
    Thanks for the reply. But the place you mentioned have no holes there. It means 2 holes have to be drilled???
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xplorer View Post
    @axe.effect
    Thanks for the reply. But the place you mentioned have no holes there. It means 2 holes have to be drilled???
    Yes, mostly it is drilled. You can try using brackets (blue), if it works.

    But it's always better to take second advice from some senior member before drilling.
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    Does anyone know how to set mixture of khyber carb ???? Bcoz all the CO test machine in lahore r deliberately out of ordrr n broken... Service centres r now discouraging the carb cars... And thr tuning... And now i am unable to set the mixture at 1.10 - 1.40 ratio against combustion ...

    Sent from my HUAWEI G610-U20 using Tapatalk 2

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