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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    buy a tub of silicone grease for the caliper slider bushings, and a tube of copper antiseize for the pad back plates - they will never squeal again as long as the antiseize is there

    You can have a lathe worker make some teflon inserts for the caliper sliders..

    Never use ordinary grease on the brake assys (they will deteriorate the rubber grommets quickly)
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    Amazing Job. Rebuilding the head is the fun part but also the most crucial one.

    what should be the life expectancy of an engine after the following overhaul

    1. Engine Head
    Valve+valve guides (fuji), cam shaft bush, seals (NOK), valve grinding.
    2. engine block
    main/beagon bearing (0.50), ring(NPR) /piston(ART) (0.50), genuine cylinder bore (0.50), water body (GMB), oil pump gear set (fuji), timing belt (genuine).

    using Zic A (10-40W) and VIC oil filter change after 5000km
    Air filter Guard replacing after 10,000km
    Coolant caltex Green pre-diluted 50-50.
    Fuel : 90% CNG, 10% petrol.

    Engine has done 12k km after the overhaul , initial 1k km on petrol and the rest on CNG.

    I am hoping for a 100K plus figure.
    your materials are good, but it all boils down to the clearances that you have set on the crank journals and have you paid attention to sheen and bevel the journal edges.. Same thing a piston too tight will lead to siezure, and a piston too loose will rattle

    For the head you should have a VERY generous valve seat not razor thin - and use the straw method to install new valve seals.

    Your engine should last a great deal of time with proper maintenance
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    i use normal GUARD filter,dont knw if its original ...i buy it frm kiyani autos thts a renowned shop in pindi n isb...
    I think I will have to get the Guard one this time because Kiyani Autos told me that the genuine ones are not coming anymore.
    How about its performance?
    Is it good?
    The last time I remember the genuine air filter was being sold for 1000 rupees.
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    always use a paper air filter in humid areas - the humidity can fatten a cellulose filter in no time.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    ^ The one used in Khyber is a dry paper type air cleaner.
    BTW do you have any pictures of your RX 115?
    If yes then please do upload em.
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    i sold it about half a year ago - no one showed much interest in it when I was selling it. gave a lot of parts with it too
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    ^ Okay,
    By reading the comments of some of the Pakwheelers about this bike, I,ve become a fan on RX 115.
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    yar the air filter i buy is of 200 n i knw its not orignl or stuff so i change it early...like at 5000-6000 kms..
    same goes with the oil filter guard supposedly is 110 which cudnt b orgnl so i change at 3500 orgnl can last 5000-6000 easily...
    orngl aaty he nae ye parts...i saw tht one time in suzuki dealer at sadar near dubai autos,tht air filter which he was sayin is japanese n it had real good quality but it was like 600 for air filter...i said NO THANKS...hehe
    but tht air filter was real cute i mean its paper was real smooth n bright white
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    xulifiqar can u show with pix wat r the caliper slider bushings and pad back plates
    pad back plates r those silver thin plates thingy which keep hold of the brake pad right??
    n caliper slider is wat??
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    i want to do it myself so if u can elaborate ,ill b thankful...
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    your materials are good, but it all boils down to the clearances that you have set on the crank journals and have you paid attention to sheen and bevel the journal edges.. Same thing a piston too tight will lead to siezure, and a piston too loose will rattle

    For the head you should have a VERY generous valve seat not razor thin - and use the straw method to install new valve seals.

    Your engine should last a great deal of time with proper maintenance
    Thanks . Here are the details of the job.

    The crank journal clearance was set to 0.10mm which is optimal for oil to lubricate without giving rattle even at high RPMs.

    The cylinder surface was well polished to maximize the life of Rings as the first set usually wear out sooner coz of rough cylinder surface after bore.

    The piston to cylinder clearance was 0.20mm which was also the gap between the two ends of 2nd compression ring.

    I didnt knew the straw method was in the text book , i saw a German guy who was our neighbor using that in his Citroen when i was in saudia in early 90s.

    valve seats are quite thick and the contact sound is quite solid & low and not metallic.

    I hope I did it right, what do u think?

    Also please post more tips (totkas) regarding maintenance and service of our local suzuki running on CNG so they dont die half way through 100K mark.

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    in my rebuilds - I polish the crank journals to a mirror finish and make a depression in the oiling hole too for a reserve of oil. The journals should also have a bevel edge to keep the con rod from floating sideways excessively. And never POLISH your cylinder to a shine - it should be honed rough with a 45 degree cross hatch pattern, so your rough new piston rings can seat in properly. Diesels require a deeper hone.

    The first startup and run of the engine is done to seat the rings forcefully before the cross hatch scratches disappear from the rings polishing effect..

    your main bearing clearance is too big, Its supposed to be 0.02 mm of clearance 0.10 mm is massive - you may see oil pressure drop at normal temperature..

    The reason for the straw method when installing valve seals is to save the seals from tearing up from the valve collet grooves.. (dont like a newish engine smoking on startup do we)

    And the most effective way to measure valve seat width is prussian blue compound and a vernier caliper. I always aim for at least 2mm of valve seat width.. No matter how it sounds
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    xulifiqar can u show with pix wat r the caliper slider bushings and pad back plates
    pad back plates r those silver thin plates thingy which keep hold of the brake pad right??
    n caliper slider is wat??
    calipers slider bushing which i called the mounting is the part through which the calipers are attached to the hub with two 12mm bolts.

    to see it working jack up the car, remove the front wheel (Any side). dont forget to use wheel stoppers on rear wheels and additional support to the jack.
    ask someone to press the brake pedal, you will see the caliper squeeze the brake pads and release them when the pedal is released. this pressing and releasing is actually sliding of the calipers.

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    This is the pic from daniyals thread. The sliders are seen on both sides of each caliper with small rubber boots through which bolts are tightened.
    Understood??
    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc) - 130065

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    in my rebuilds - I polish the crank journals to a mirror finish and make a depression in the oiling hole too for a reserve of oil. The journals should also have a bevel edge to keep the con rod from floating sideways excessively. And never POLISH your cylinder to a shine - it should be honed rough with a 45 degree cross hatch pattern, so your rough new piston rings can seat in properly. Diesels require a deeper hone.

    The first startup and run of the engine is done to seat the rings forcefully before the cross hatch scratches disappear from the rings polishing effect..

    your main bearing clearance is too big, Its supposed to be 0.02 mm of clearance 0.10 mm is massive - you may see oil pressure drop at normal temperature..

    The reason for the straw method when installing valve seals is to save the seals from tearing up from the valve collet grooves.. (dont like a newish engine smoking on startup do we)

    And the most effective way to measure valve seat width is prussian blue compound and a vernier caliper. I always aim for at least 2mm of valve seat width.. No matter how it sounds

    oh.. my mistake, the main bearings were set to 0.01mm. are they too tight?

    Now i understand the concept of rough cylinder surface after boring and the 45 degree cross hatch pattern.
    The valve seat was around 1.5 - 2mm.

    what is prussian blue compound?

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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    yar the air filter i buy is of 200 n i knw its not orignl or stuff so i change it early...like at 5000-6000 kms..
    same goes with the oil filter guard supposedly is 110 which cudnt b orgnl so i change at 3500 orgnl can last 5000-6000 easily...
    orngl aaty he nae ye parts...i saw tht one time in suzuki dealer at sadar near dubai autos,tht air filter which he was sayin is japanese n it had real good quality but it was like 600 for air filter...i said NO THANKS...hehe
    but tht air filter was real cute i mean its paper was real smooth n bright white
    The OEM air filter, the last time we got it was for 1k.
    The genuine oil and fuel filters are still available but quite expensive if compared with guard,s filters.
    Is there any company manufacturing products with a better quality than Guard?
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    This is the pic from daniyals thread. The sliders are seen on both sides of each caliper with small rubber boots through which bolts are tightened.
    Understood??
    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc) - 130065
    They must be 100% accurate in their direction.
    Even a little difference in the fitting and/or if the bolts are a little damaged/crooked can cause the brake pads to touch with the discs causing severe heatups and damage to the brake pads/discs.
    So my opinion would be to get it done by some professional.
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by daniyalahmad View Post
    The OEM air filter, the last time we got it was for 1k.
    The genuine oil and fuel filters are still available but quite expensive if compared with guard,s filters.
    Is there any company manufacturing products with a better quality than Guard?
    Try leppon or VIC. I am using VIC oil filter and Guard air filter. But I buy the air filter from metro as the ones available outside are 99% fake. Atleast I couldnt get a genuine guard outside metro in Lahore.

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    ^ Okay,
    I will check Metro Islamabad.
    Thanks for the info.
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    oh.. my mistake, the main bearings were set to 0.01mm. are they too tight?

    Now i understand the concept of rough cylinder surface after boring and the 45 degree cross hatch pattern.
    The valve seat was around 1.5 - 2mm.

    what is prussian blue compound?

    Prussian blue is a liquid that can mark metal easily and its washable too. All good machinists should use it.

    btw, your main bearing clearance is a tad tight - but they should be about 0.028 now after break in anyway, The reason you should be very careful with crank journal clearance is that you have to accelerate a new engine to seat the rings, a tight crank may sieze or bind during that - if your oil is too thick
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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