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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    I need some help in rear springs.

    Spacers in rear springs fit on red side or green side?.

    Addition of spacers makes the suspension hard?.

    This red rubber needs replacement. Hard rubber or soft rubber will be better?.

    Any idea if these springs are local made or genuine?. I found them at home.
    Attached Images Attached Images     

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    Quote Originally Posted by axe.effect View Post
    I need some help in rear springs.

    Spacers in rear springs fit on red side or green side?.

    Addition of spacers makes the suspension hard?.

    This red rubber needs replacement. Hard rubber or soft rubber will be better?.

    Any idea if these springs are local made or genuine?. I found them at home.
    1: spacer goes on the red side (Top)
    2: spacer does not alter suspension stiffness.
    3: you might have to remove this rubber to fix the spacer..
    4: they look OEM for alto but can't bet on it

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    Does anyone know where to find STAP 00B timing advancer in Lahore?
    @smijaz

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    My khyber has been givings me jerks for a few months, now the jerks have increased a lot and the engine is slightly misfiring. Today I checked my ignition coils by the method told earlier in the thread. (Coil is almost 20 years old-when the car was bought)

    The primary coil has not resistance. It is zero.
    Secondary coils resistance is 30k ohms.
    Voltage it is getting is same as battery because it is already relayed.

    On online forums experts have written that the primary coil is short and the ignition coil should be replaced with a new one immediately.

    Which coil should I go for? @margallar has written in his earlier posts the a dry coil of new era is a suitable replacement for the old ones. Please tell me which coil should I go for. What brand? How about a cultus coil? How much would it be for? Will it fit in the old coils place?

    Where can I get NGK ultima wires from? Are they available easily in the market?

    An urgent response would be appreciated.
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    the ignition coil is kaaputtt

    get a new era coil for cultus, do not connect the resistor.
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    Thankyou for the prompt response.

    I have a few questions.

    1)Wont it affect the life of coil if I do not connect the resistor?
    2)Will it fit in the same place as the old one?
    3)Any price estimate?
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahmad40 View Post
    Thankyou for the prompt response.

    I have a few questions.

    1)Wont it affect the life of coil if I do not connect the resistor?
    2)Will it fit in the same place as the old one?
    3)Any price estimate?
    resistor won't affect the coil's life.

    it will fit in the same place on the same wiring

    estimate is around 1500 rs max

    ultima wires are not ngk wires
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    resistor won't affect the coil's life.

    it will fit in the same place on the same wiring

    estimate is around 1500 rs max
    My current coil has wires with thimble at the end, the cultus coil has a different fitting for the wires. What to do with that?
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahmad40 View Post
    My current coil has wires with thimble at the end, the cultus coil has a different fitting for the wires. What to do with that?
    the new era usually comes with bolts to install the thimbles on, rather than the plug like cultus, if you don't find that one, you can get the plug/grip from a kabli parts shop, and connect it to the old thimbles
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    the new era usually comes with bolts to install the thimbles on, rather than the plug like cultus, if you don't find that one, you can get the plug/grip from a kabli parts shop, and connect it to the old thimbles
    Thanks a lot man. Sorry for disturbing you with my stupid questions
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    Quote Originally Posted by axe.effect View Post
    Gear shifter seal is leaking. It only leaks very little bit.

    I was told that the full gearbox will be taken out and opened fully to fix it.

    Any alternative easier way to replace this seal or stop leak, by high temperature silicon etc?.
    Its a lengthy process to change that shifter seal. Radiator, clutch and pressure plates, gear box, all need to be taken out.
    I have changed this seal twice, but gear oil still leaks from there, so I have left it as it is because a whole day is required to change this seal and the labour cost is also high for this job.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DUDE007 View Post
    Does anyone know where to find STAP 00B timing advancer in Lahore?
    @smijaz
    All good CNG workshops have it. Just ask them for stap 00B and show them a picture. They will bet that its not for Khyber, but don't listen to them.

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    Guys my khyber is giving jerks from a long time. Its engine had been overhauled completely once almost 10years ago. One and a half month back the head was overhauled too. Valves and valve seats were changed along with new head gaskit. The car was giving jerks before the (head) overhaul and is givings jerks after it. 2 days before the head overhaul, carburator was overhauled with carburetor repair kit but went in vain.

    After the overhaul I have replaced the plugs,distributor cap,rotor,sparks plug wires and igniton coil but no use, the car is still giving jerks.

    In neutral the car accelerates fine. In gear when moving, when the accelerator is pressed hard the car starts giving jerks and gains rpm VERY slowly. Black smoke can be seen in the rear view mirror at this point. Today I floored the car but it gave heavy jerks and rpm did not increase much (black smoke too).

    The car gains rpm comparatively quickly when very little throttle is pressed and gives lesser jerks.
    I cannot figure out what is wrong nor my mechanic. In neutral the car accelerates fine.

    One thing I have noticed is the accelerates better and causes less jerks when the coolants temperature is cold.

    What could be wrong? Any ideas

    P.s car is petrol only
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    Check the hot idle bypass to see if its working. Its a rectangular shaped object on top of carb which takes air from mouth of the carb and adds it directly to the intake manifold. It allows air to pass when car is hot to lean out the mixture. If it doesn't work then bypass and check for jerks. Check ignition timing too.

    Does your car have cng?

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    Quote Originally Posted by DUDE007 View Post
    Check the hot idle bypass to see if its working. Its a rectangular shaped object on top of carb which takes air from mouth of the carb and adds it directly to the intake manifold. It allows air to pass when car is hot to lean out the mixture. If it doesn't work then bypass and check for jerks. Check ignition timing too.

    Does your car have cng?
    Petrol only. Will check it tommorow
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahmad40 View Post
    Guys my khyber is giving jerks from a long time. Its engine had been overhauled completely once almost 10years ago. One and a half month back the head was overhauled too. Valves and valve seats were changed along with new head gaskit. The car was giving jerks before the (head) overhaul and is givings jerks after it. 2 days before the head overhaul, carburator was overhauled with carburetor repair kit but went in vain.

    After the overhaul I have replaced the plugs,distributor cap,rotor,sparks plug wires and igniton coil but no use, the car is still giving jerks.

    In neutral the car accelerates fine. In gear when moving, when the accelerator is pressed hard the car starts giving jerks and gains rpm VERY slowly. Black smoke can be seen in the rear view mirror at this point. Today I floored the car but it gave heavy jerks and rpm did not increase much (black smoke too).

    The car gains rpm comparatively quickly when very little throttle is pressed and gives lesser jerks.
    I cannot figure out what is wrong nor my mechanic. In neutral the car accelerates fine.

    One thing I have noticed is the accelerates better and causes less jerks when the coolants temperature is cold.

    What could be wrong? Any ideas

    P.s car is petrol only
    your ignition system is all new

    black smoke means the car is running rich

    this is definitely a carburetor problem.

    your mechanic wasn't able to fix it
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    @ahmad40

    I believe that black smoke, jerks & missing issues are covered very well in previous posts of this thread, so also go through the previous posts using search.

    In search box, put
    1. Black smoke.
    2. Jerk.
    3. Missing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    your ignition system is all new

    black smoke means the car is running rich

    this is definitely a carburetor problem.

    your mechanic wasn't able to fix it
    Will get my carburator checked again, what I was thinking is that the carburator must be perfect, as carburator repair kit was used to replace at the parts as mentioned in the thread before. One thing I checked today is (Xulfiqar mentioned before in this thread) that the rotor in distributor should snap back with pressure when rotated. My rotor is a little lazy when rotated, could that be a problem as the centrifugal advance is not in its best condition?

    Quote Originally Posted by axe.effect View Post
    @ahmad40

    I believe that black smoke, jerks & missing issues are covered very well in previous posts of this thread, so also go through the previous posts using search.

    In search box, put
    1. Black smoke.
    2. Jerk.
    3. Missing.
    I have been following this thread for two years. I have used carburator repair kit and replaced all the ignition parts as mentioned on the thread but still the problem continues thats why I posted my problem.
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    A lazy advance mechanism might make the car sluggish, but I don't think it can make it as bad as you mention.

    New parts won't guarantee a repair. There is much more to deal with, when working with carburetor.

    Main problem is dirt. You can not imagine how bad it gets and the poor mechanic tries cleaning with petrol.

    Imo get a big can of carb cleaner and blow it into each and every hole.

    Plus. Do not use the jets in the kits,they are different size
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahmad40 View Post
    Guys my khyber is giving jerks from a long time. Its engine had been overhauled completely once almost 10years ago. One and a half month back the head was overhauled too. Valves and valve seats were changed along with new head gaskit. The car was giving jerks before the (head) overhaul and is givings jerks after it. 2 days before the head overhaul, carburator was overhauled with carburetor repair kit but went in vain.

    After the overhaul I have replaced the plugs,distributor cap,rotor,sparks plug wires and igniton coil but no use, the car is still giving jerks.

    In neutral the car accelerates fine. In gear when moving, when the accelerator is pressed hard the car starts giving jerks and gains rpm VERY slowly. Black smoke can be seen in the rear view mirror at this point. Today I floored the car but it gave heavy jerks and rpm did not increase much (black smoke too).

    The car gains rpm comparatively quickly when very little throttle is pressed and gives lesser jerks.
    I cannot figure out what is wrong nor my mechanic. In neutral the car accelerates fine.

    One thing I have noticed is the accelerates better and causes less jerks when the coolants temperature is cold.

    What could be wrong? Any ideas

    P.s car is petrol only
    @Xulfiqar

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