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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    @ahmad40 did you check the hot idle compensator?

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    @axe.effect can you post pic or guide me where gear oil filler bolt is located and if it can be accessed from engine bay.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DUDE007 View Post
    @ahmad40 did you check the hot idle compensator?
    Yes I checked the compensator today, the pipes are connected properly.

    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    A lazy advance mechanism might make the car sluggish, but I don't think it can make it as bad as you mention.

    New parts won't guarantee a repair. There is much more to deal with, when working with carburetor.

    Main problem is dirt. You can not imagine how bad it gets and the poor mechanic tries cleaning with petrol.

    Imo get a big can of carb cleaner and blow it into each and every hole.

    Plus. Do not use the jets in the kits,they are different size
    $hit man. I used the jets which came with the repair kit. May be they are responsible for the black smoke, but are they responsible for the jerks too?
    If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.

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    no they probably aren't responsible for it, feels more like dirty passages or a bad power piston
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    @ahmad40 You have to check whether it allows air to pass when hot.

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    there is a trick to test it using a hair dryer
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    there is a trick to test it using a hair dryer

    mostly the basic requirement is missing in Pakistan - the engine should actually be at normal operating temperature first.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    yes, it makes quite a difference, you only realise once you try to tune the car without the t stat, then reach a dead end and bang your head. then when you finally get it, you ask yourself, why didn't i do this earlier
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    yes, it makes quite a difference, you only realise once you try to tune the car without the t stat, then reach a dead end and bang your head. then when you finally get it, you ask yourself, why didn't i do this earlier
    My car has a thermostat valve and auto fan. Today one of my friends took me to his mechanic at walton road. He said the issue is of carburetor, he reffered me to another mechanic near ganga ram hospital ( Mushtaq carburetor wala). I live in dha and thats a lot of distance from here. If the problem is not diagnosed i'll take it to him after my exams.
    If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.

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    Carburetor can take even a week to fix if you are having bad luck. Go after exams.
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    Quote Originally Posted by DUDE007 View Post
    @axe.effect can you post pic or guide me where gear oil filler bolt is located and if it can be accessed from engine bay.
    Two ways to fill gear oil.

    Gear oil is filled by removing speedometer cable from gearbox. Follow speedometer cable to gearbox. It can also be filled from under the car.

    A month ago, i got it filled Zic FF GL4 75-85 gear oil (525rs per liter) by mechanical hand pump from under the car. Purchased 3 liters but 2.3 liters was filled. Very good oil.

    Zic authorized service stations locator.
    http://www.zicoil.pk/service_stations.php

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    I know about the speedo cable. There is another bolt near right side of car(viewing from front) near to the drain bolt. I think the gear oil level is checked from that one.

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    Btw you didn't like the gs oil(same grade) you used before this one?

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    Yes, gear oil level nut is somewhere near to it, but don't know about the exact location.

    Both are very good. GS gear oil HD 75-85 GL-4 is semi synthetic. Gs oil was not available that time, so purchased Zic FF.

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    my swift 87 is giving me 9-9.5 km/liter on long as well as on short trips!!can any one tell me why it is same for both ? and how can i make it better
    Veni, Vedi, Vici

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    If a car has 50% life of radiator means avg. condition radiator and we install thermostat which is a essential part but will it increase chances of hose burst or radiator leaks because of constant temperature?

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    Quote Originally Posted by surrosh View Post
    my swift 87 is giving me 9-9.5 km/liter on long as well as on short trips!!can any one tell me why it is same for both ? and how can i make it better
    How did you check fuel average?.

    For improvements, what i learnt here is, there is no shortcut to good fuel efficiency. There are so many small things that need adjustments/tuning which combine together to make big difference/improvements.

    Some very easy tasks in 1000rs budget.

    Ignition coil relay (300rs), if required, will improve fuel average and acceleration.

    Distributor cap and rotor (450 rs), if required, will bring improvements.

    Spray carburetor cleaner (200rs) into float vents.

    Fixing air cleaner/intake box leak due to missing rubber on its lid will also make efficiency better. Pressure cooker rubber (50rs), fitted in 5 cars with more than satisfactory results .

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    I tried to find pressure cooker rubber but the max size they had was small for the lid. The shop wants me to bring the pressure cooker lid but they don't know where i put it

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    Lol, I had a similar situation when I went to buy a check valve at an aquarium shop
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    Air cleaner box lid leak fix.

    Cut the circular rubber seal in one length and use another rubber seal piece on the area which is left. Glue two rubber joints. So it will take approx 1.25-1.50 cooker seals. Use smaller pressure cookers seal.

    Now i tried black rubber used on house doors from hardware store, which was cut to almost half inch width and pasted with glue. It also works, but time consuming and messy DIY.

    Green = the soft rubber seal which is mostly missing, hardened or cracked.
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