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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    Quote Originally Posted by ehhaq View Post
    Hi all..
    I have 2 set of coil/plug cables. 1st one have 1k resistance (NGK) value on all wires while other one have zero resistance (siewa). If I use NGK then pick is quite low and no misfire on high rev. If I use Siewa then pick is quite good but misfire on high rev. I am confuse B/w the twos. Please give you expert opinion. Which one I use..
    Both are no good to be honest. Get some Alpine plug wires for your car. They come in a box and are yellow in color; I've been using for a while now and there is no misfiring on low or high. You are based in lahore so you can find those.

    Btw whats the condition of distributor cap and rotor, ignition coil and plugs?

    Edit: what was range of multimeter while checking seiwa resistance? Mine were about 600 to 800ohms when new. after a while they were no good.

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    Default Engine Seals Giving up and Blow-by.

    Dear members
    Last month my Khyber's timing seals started leaking engine oil so I got the crank seal and cam seal changed. Last week the chamber/oil pan seal gave up and I got it replaced as well. Now engine's main seal is leaking. I am using Caltex Havoline 20W-50 from many years. The mechanic told me that the engine is weak and the seals are getting leaked due to engine blow-by. How correct is his statement? I also found engine oil in air filter compartment. PCV valve was cleaned a few months ago. @Xulfiqar @smijaz @margallar @metalhead @daniyalahmad @ahsanzs

    And should I replace the seals this time as well or go for engine overhaul? The engine was overhauled in 2008. The odo was not working at that time. It started working in 2010 and after that the car has covered 65,000 Kms.
    He was asking that the engine main seal and gear lever seal (it is leaking for a year now) replacement will cost me around 4K. So isn't it wastage of money if I have to overhaul it within next few months?
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    That is bull sheet

    Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
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    Too much oil pressure? Remove pcv and check whether it rattles.

    Edit: @speedster_101 after checking pcv also check how much sludge is there by removing oil cap or removing tappet cover.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DUDE007 View Post
    Both are no good to be honest. Get some Alpine plug wires for your car. They come in a box and are yellow in color; I've been using for a while now and there is no misfiring on low or high. You are based in lahore so you can find those.

    Btw whats the condition of distributor cap and rotor, ignition coil and plugs?

    Edit: what was range of multimeter while checking seiwa resistance? Mine were about 600 to 800ohms when new. after a while they were no good.
    Car is totay petrol driven after overhual(30k done now after OH). Range was (x 1k) mean reading x 1k, cap,rotor,coil, plugs are in good condition. Almost all shops on mitgumry are selling CNG plug wires so al last I bring this seiwa wires on which CNG is printed but shopkeeper said it just printed for sake of cng users attension.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ehhaq View Post
    Car is totay petrol driven after overhual(30k done now after OH). Range was (x 1k) mean reading x 1k, cap,rotor,coil, plugs are in good condition. Almost all shops on mitgumry are selling CNG plug wires so al last I bring this seiwa wires on which CNG is printed but shopkeeper said it just printed for sake of cng users attension.
    Go to parts shops on model town circular road. Get the wires i mentioned. They also have cng printed on box but i dont use cng.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DUDE007 View Post
    Go to parts shops on model town circular road. Get the wires i mentioned. They also have cng printed on box but i dont use cng.
    What will be resistance if I'll check them on the spot there?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ehhaq View Post
    What will be resistance if I'll check them on the spot there?
    Forget resistance. Shopkeeper will refuse to sell them
    It should be between 2 to 4 kilo ohms for all of them i guess.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DUDE007 View Post
    Forget resistance. Shopkeeper will refuse to sell them
    It should be between 2 to 4 kilo ohms for all of them i guess.
    Thanks Bro for help..
    Stay blessed..

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    Quote Originally Posted by DUDE007 View Post
    Too much oil pressure? Remove pcv and check whether it rattles.

    Edit: @speedster_101 after checking pcv also check how much sludge is there by removing oil cap or removing tappet cover.
    Self Tunning  Khyber G10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -1615247
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    Today I opened the PCV valve again and cleaned it up with carburetor cleaner. It was rattling. However I noticed one thing that the pipe from crankcase which goes towards air filter gives smoke when the car is idling. Here is a small 10 sec video

    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    blowby in a small petrol engine is checked at 1500 or 1800 rpm - and it is checked with a piece of paper over the oil cap. Clean the PCV with carb cleaner and put back, oil being sucked into the intake is also due to the chokey air filters that people love to use on CNG

    Do an oil pressure check and compression check - most probably your engine is OK and just needs a valve seal job.

    Xulfiqar post


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    @speedster.....that is okay, not bad at all. infact it is supposed to be like that at idle, it becomes less at high rpm

    the seals are not leaking because of blowby, its just aging.

    if you really want to test your engine, get a compression test
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    Speedster Increase the rpm a bit it will vanish.. Its how it works


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    Yes, it vanishes when the RPM is increased.
    I don't think mechanics here have compression testing facility. I asked my mechanic for it, first he said A/C compressor is working fine. Then upon my clarification he said that no need for that as compression is too high this time as oil comes between cylinder walls and piston rings. LoL
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    @margallar @slakr
    So what do you guys recommend? Should I just change the engine main seal and keep driving?
    Its one day job with around 3.5K labour charges. Engine oil, gear oil, coolant, all need to be filled again.
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    I don't get what he is calling the main seal....is he talking of headgasket?

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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    I don't get what he is calling the main seal....is he talking of headgasket?

    Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
    No, the rear main seal. Its towards gear box, where crankshaft exits the engine.

    http://www.gobluedevil.com/blog/rear-main-seal/
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedster_101 View Post
    No, the rear main seal. The one where crankshaft enters gear box.

    http://www.gobluedevil.com/blog/rear-main-seal/
    Being an old PW member, diagnose the issue the recommended way (compression test), not the unprofessional way (replace this, replace that).

    If engine is good, spend money on repairs. If engine is not good, keep driving like that by adding oil if leak is not much.

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    I will let you know tomorrow, i know someone who does compression test in Islamabad. It was some mutual friend who had his own tester.

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