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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    @cracked
    You remember that "Tak tak" sound we were talking about?
    I got it fixed.
    It was coming from the rocker arms and I got all 6 rocker arms changed
    Now the sound has become normal.
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by daniyalahmad View Post
    @cracked
    You remember that "Tak tak" sound we were talking about?
    I got it fixed.
    It was coming from the rocker arms and I got all 6 rocker arms changed
    Now the sound has become normal.
    you are quite passionate about your ride, I can see that.

    can you share the details of the job with budgetary impact.

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    ^ Yeah I am.
    Well I was unable to take pictures during the fitting of the rocker arms but I can post the pictures of the old rocker arms which are with me.

    Therea re 6 of them in Khyber,
    They are on the top of the tappats, the things you see when you open the tappat cover are the rocker arms.
    I got all of them i-e 6 and paid Rs.2850.
    Got them from Kiyani Autos Gawalmandi.
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by daniyalahmad View Post
    ^ Yeah I am.
    Well I was unable to take pictures during the fitting of the rocker arms but I can post the pictures of the old rocker arms which are with me.

    Therea re 6 of them in Khyber,
    They are on the top of the tappats, the things you see when you open the tappat cover are the rocker arms.
    I got all of them i-e 6 and paid Rs.2850.
    Got them from Kiyani Autos Gawalmandi.
    yes i know about R. arms , i wanted to know what made you change them?
    what was wrong with them, were they loose on the flute (the pipe which hold three rocker arms)?

    in 2850 were they complete with new valve lash adj screws and lock nuts?

    do post pics of oldies.

    thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    yes i know about R. arms , i wanted to know what made you change them?
    what was wrong with them, were they loose on the flute (the pipe which hold three rocker arms)?

    in 2850 were they complete with new valve lash adj screws and lock nuts?

    do post pics of oldies.

    thanks
    We were unable to adjust them.
    The adjusters just wont move so we changed them.
    They were not loose on the flute
    I got them with the adjusters in the above quoted price.
    Inshallah I,ll post the pictures at night.
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    thanks for the reply. plz clarify ,-ve terminal of the coil or ground of the coil?
    Battery Ground.

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    iva already changed rocker arms brov..
    they costed me 2000 for kabli ones,i still have old ones,they had same prob,tht they werent adjusting n their screw had got jammed..
    so now i have taken all screws out of them,ill some time search of its new valve lash adj screws and lock nuts,agr mil gaey tou tht set will bas good as new..
    the tak tak sound is prolly cuz of lose tappets n i wana do it myself but i will do it aftr few kilometer becuz last tym i got em adjusted were5000 kms..
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    daniyal..u use castrol magnetic..plz quote its price n u use it for 5k kms right?
    at 5 k kms,do still it has some thickness or do it comes out as water
    ?im thinkin to switch from havoline to some thing tht lasts a bit longer..
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    new grub screws can be bought at suzuki parts shops
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    @Cracked

    For your queries regarding switching to another oil with longer drain interval.

    I understand that
    1. You are using Caltex Havoline motor oil 20-50W (API SG)
    2. Your engine has been rebuild and its 25K kms after that with above oil.
    3. Oil Drain interval 3000K
    4. Oil Filter Guard
    5. No oil decreasing issues

    Consider the following, b4 moving ahead

    1. Engine Oils Like ZIC A, Castrol Magnatec, Shell HX7 are all API (SM) certified and SAE 10-40W viscosity grade oils . (I am not going to talk about fully synthetics like ZIC XQ, Mobil1, Shell Ultra etc as they are all very expensive and also not compatible with our 11+ year old khybers)

    2. The above mentioned oils falls in the category of Semi-Synthetic or Part-Synthetic category.

    3. API SM is the latest certification for oils by American Petroleum Institute. These oils are fuel saving, superior cold start protection, longer lasting and most important have strong detergents to clean and keep cleaning the engine till the next oil change (5K Kms MAX). The detergents in these oils will remove deposits (if any) from the engine which in older engines running on mineral oil might result in decrease in compression or cause temporary/permanent oil decreasing issues. In rare cases the engine smokes out. As I dont know what kind of overhaul has been done and what is situation of deposits in your engine so cant say anything.

    4. Another important factor is the oil filter, these oils will need superior filtration as they are working to keep the engine clean by picking up the deposits so naturally they need some place to throw away the dirt. Therefore a high capacity oil filter like VIC and leppon will be required to benefit from these oils. if you dont use such filter then these superior oils are going to become dis coloured and ineffective, by picking up deposits, sooner than your previous mineral brand.

    My Suggestion in order of priority:

    A- Keep using the Caltex havoline motor oil (20-50W) with local filter and 3K kms drain interval.

    OR

    B- Switch to Ultra 7 (20-50W) API SL certified with VIC / Leppon oil Filter and 5K kms drain interval.

    OR

    C- Switch to ZIC HIFLO (20-50W) API SM certified with VIC/Leppon oil Filter and 4K Kms drain interval.

    Note:
    Read this post atleast twice and then decide.

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    i dropped off the idea of synthetic oil wen i asked ur ijaz bhai..
    tht y i asked if i can move to castrol magnetic or not?
    cuz 3 k kms r too early,so i was hopin to have something tht can last 5k kms....
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    wats the price of vic oil filter?
    n plus ultra 7 is tht petromin oil tht some pakwheeler is importing rite?
    ive decided to move to castrol so plz advise on castrol...
    n switching can cause any prob of any sort?
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    VIC is Rs. 350 approx.

    Castrol Magnatec is semi synthetic oil and is no doubt one of the best in its class.

    it may give undesirable results in your case considering the history.

    So my recommendation are still same as before. A, B or C decide according to your preferences and budget.

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    if you are still undecided, Ask @storm for opinion on his "Petromin Oil" thread and @SKZIC on his thread "ZIC oil guide". They are experts in this subject and can guide you better.

    Do post the final outcome back here.

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    wat undesirable results???
    i think ima stick to wat ive got my hands on already..HAVOLINE>..
    kudos!
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    wat undesirable results???
    i think ima stick to wat ive got my hands on already..HAVOLINE>..
    kudos!
    Good decision , hope you will get to 100K mark with proper maintenance .
    Caltex havoline is not an inferior grade oil, it gonna wok quite well.

    regarding the undesirable results , see point 3 in my post.

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    acha ijaz bhai have a problem..
    this prob is happenin from 2-3 days..
    jb gari strt kro n wen it reaches its temperature,wen i release its acclerator even at idle,car vibrates like its tryin to shut down..
    i try to set with cng kit settings,n us time set ho b jati hy but then thori dair chalny k baad dobara idle py vibrate krti hy n then like aftr 30-45 minutes drive,it becomes stable...
    wats wrong here???
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    ^^
    Not sure, lets wait for others for ideas.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    acha ijaz bhai have a problem..
    this prob is happenin from 2-3 days..
    jb gari strt kro n wen it reaches its temperature,wen i release its acclerator even at idle,car vibrates like its tryin to shut down..
    i try to set with cng kit settings,n us time set ho b jati hy but then thori dair chalny k baad dobara idle py vibrate krti hy n then like aftr 30-45 minutes drive,it becomes stable...
    wats wrong here???
    Check all the vacuum pipes of carb. and diaphragms(including timing advance diaphragm with distributor) for vacuum leakages.
    I have the same issue a week before and after investigating, my timing advancer diaphragm proved to be the cause.

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