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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    yup,the dials scanned chaeay..
    i saw on internet about some DIY makin ur own dials styles n bla bla..
    so i thought i can give it a try..
    its like scan the dial,change its color to white,make some design u like,corp it n adobe photoshop n take a pritn on thick PHOTOGRAPH paper..
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    yup,the dials scanned chaeay..
    i saw on internet about some DIY makin ur own dials styles n bla bla..
    so i thought i can give it a try..
    its like scan the dial,change its color to white,make some design u like,corp it n adobe photoshop n take a pritn on thick PHOTOGRAPH paper..
    Ok, now I get it. If I get to open the dash will remember to scan them first for u.

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    @Adyiator

    In addition to my earlier list of possibilities, Ignition timing when too advanced can look as if the engine is stuck and self motor cant start it.

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    oke toke..
    thnx in advance smijaz bhai...
    i once tried to open the meter n ended up in breakin the plastic cover of meter dial...i dont knw wat screw is where located so then i got tht fixed from electrician..so from then,ive not even tried to open it!
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    @Adyiator

    In addition to my earlier list of possibilities, Ignition timing when too advanced can look as if the engine is stuck and self motor cant start it.

    Brother, thanks for your help.

    The problem was, the mechanic who installed the new heater inlet pipe, didn't fill the water with engine started. The water was not circulated properly, thus inadequacy caused the heat up. under the tappet cover, water and oil were mixed and formed a white paste.

    so far we have taken out piston number 1 and it had minor scratches, but there were no cuts on it. There were minor bruises on the main bearing of crankshaft, which were also scratched.

    will look at the rest of it tomorrow inshaALLAH, and will let you know.

    I want to ask, should we change the rings? as they don't look promising as well. there is ware on the rings too... which is again minor, but can hurt the precision.



    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -165345
    I'm struggling to please ALLAH, I'll suggest you do the same.

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    Quote Originally Posted by adyiator View Post
    Brother, thanks for your help.

    The problem was, the mechanic who installed the new heater inlet pipe, didn't fill the water with engine started. The water was not circulated properly, thus inadequacy caused the heat up. under the tappet cover, water and oil were mixed and formed a white paste.

    so far we have taken out piston number 1 and it had minor scratches, but there were no cuts on it. There were minor bruises on the main bearing of crankshaft, which were also scratched.

    will look at the rest of it tomorrow inshaALLAH, and will let you know.

    I want to ask, should we change the rings? as they don't look promising as well. there is ware on the rings too... which is again minor, but can hurt the precision.
    Oh ho.. scene bad ho gya hay... You havent noticed Hot indication on temp gauge or oil pressure indication before this happened?

    You should go for new rings set, oil pump kit, new valve seals, valve seat grinding, head/block face, main bearing atleast. This is if, your cylinder wall to piston clearance is with in limit.

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    sami bhai
    i took off the wire from sensor of temperature located on engine just on thermostat housing..
    wen i touched tht wire to car's body,the needle raised to full H mark on temp gauge inside car..but with connected to the sensor,the autofan kicks on 25% of total gauge!
    shudnt it b like wen i touch it with ground,it shud hav raised only half way mark???
    n wen car fan kicks,it blows warm air means car temp is optimal...
    wats messy?
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    Oh ho.. scene bad ho gya hay... You havent noticed Hot indication on temp gauge or oil pressure indication before this happened?

    You should go for new rings set, oil pump kit, new valve seals, valve seat grinding, head/block face, main bearing atleast. This is if, your cylinder wall to piston clearance is with in limit.

    thanks for reply.

    There was no water in radiator, so no temp indication was present.

    so far we have one piston out of block. following is the picture.

    the scratches on the piston and bearing cannot be felt by finger tips. there are no cuts. but yet we are not sure about other pistons and bearings plus the crank assembly parts.

    my friend already told me that you are lucky that the damage is not that big. still we will have to install rings i suppose. & i'll also check with my friend if we have to go for the parts you have mentioned above.

    please comment on the condition.


    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -165605 Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -165606
    I'm struggling to please ALLAH, I'll suggest you do the same.

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    the piston looks great to me - the little scuff marks are not such a worry if your fingernail does not catch on the scratches.

    The big end is scratched up and needs replacing - get the crank journal measured or if your mechanic/lathe guy is being cheeky buy a strip of plastigage - and measure the clearance yourself - it costs about Rs 100 for a 1 foot piece and the scale is printed on it already.

    just break a piece or plastigage and place on piece when tightening - tighten up, loosen, remove piece and measure the spread with the scale on the packaging - the best and quick clearance method.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    the piston looks great to me - the little scuff marks are not such a worry if your fingernail does not catch on the scratches.

    The big end is scratched up and needs replacing - get the crank journal measured or if your mechanic/lathe guy is being cheeky buy a strip of plastigage - and measure the clearance yourself - it costs about Rs 100 for a 1 foot piece and the scale is printed on it already.

    just break a piece or plastigage and place on piece when tightening - tighten up, loosen, remove piece and measure the spread with the scale on the packaging - the best and quick clearance method.
    The engine is opened up, and head unit is sent to lathe worker for repair. And new rings will be installed. Plus shaft for the valves will also be replaced.
    Attached Images Attached Images     
    I'm struggling to please ALLAH, I'll suggest you do the same.

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    Quote Originally Posted by adyiator View Post
    The engine is opened up, and head unit is sent to lethe worker for repair. And new rings will be installed. Plus shaft for the valves will also be replaced.
    Good luck with semi overhaul.
    by shaft of the valves I guess you mean valve guides?
    With new rings and valve seats, you must have perfect main & big end bearings with optimum clearance for oil or the crank will rattle. Also check the cam shaft for extra play , if the cam shaft needs new bushes, get them fitted to ensure proper valve tappet settings otherwise the tak tak sound will never end nor tappets will remain adjusted.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    sami bhai
    i took off the wire from sensor of temperature located on engine just on thermostat housing..
    wen i touched tht wire to car's body,the needle raised to full H mark on temp gauge inside car..but with connected to the sensor,the autofan kicks on 25% of total gauge!
    shudnt it b like wen i touch it with ground,it shud hav raised only half way mark???
    n wen car fan kicks,it blows warm air means car temp is optimal...
    wats messy?

    this means your temp gauge is ok, but the temp sensor is not sending the right signal, meaning it is not decreasing the resistance with increase in the temperature in accordance with the guage. I think you have installed an after market ECT sensor??

    check the sensor as per the instructions given before by Fas133.


    This is what I know honestly, experts may differ.

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    After changing the plugs, I noticed the following

    1. Better starting.
    2. Better mileage (not too much but a bit better)
    3. Quieter engine
    4. may be little improvement in pick and response.


    Goood, Bro i will also above plug.
    I need modify Grill for Khyber 98.
    do some one know from where i can get ???
    0334 988 9223

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    Good luck with semi overhaul.
    by shaft of the valves I guess you mean valve guides?
    With new rings and valve seats, you must have perfect main & big end bearings with optimum clearance for oil or the crank will rattle. Also check the cam shaft for extra play , if the cam shaft needs new bushes, get them fitted to ensure proper valve tappet settings otherwise the tak tak sound will never end nor tappets will remain adjusted.

    Yes, I meant valve guides, and they were completely worn out. Things you have suggested are being considered by us, but i wanted to know, if i don't go with big end & bearing, will the engine deteriorate more quickly? or you have something else to say about it?

    please help.

    & plus, by the complete details i'v given above, what do you think the cost should be, including all parts & labor cost?
    I'm struggling to please ALLAH, I'll suggest you do the same.

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    check clearance of main & bigend bearings whether crank need grinding and over size bearings.


    If the big end bearing are worn out resulting in excessive clearance , the oil pressure may fall / fail and your piston rings might wear out sooner than later. Also the oil going to engine head will not be adequate for proper lubrication of cam shaft, rocker arms and valves. So do your math.

    Approx Cost with new rings, valves+valve guides, oil pump kit, main/big end bearings, seals, gaskits, lathe work (valve + crank grind, head+block face, oil pump etc) = Rs.9,000

    Labor: depends upon your mechanic.

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    sometimes you can get away with just new bearings on the crankshaft without grinding. Polish them with 1400 and 2000 paper for a smooth finish - and check clearance with plastigauge
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    @smijaz

    @Xulfiqar

    brother, you have been a lot of help, what i did, was discussed all matters with you guys here, and then analyzed the situation at workshop.
    I was making a hasty decision by not putting new bigends & bearings, which were scratched.

    so now, engine is completely being overhauled.
    new rings,
    new pistons (w/o connecting rods),
    new bigends, bearings,
    valve seat grinding,
    cylinder wall polish,
    new thrust collars,
    head & block face (repair),
    new valve guides,
    new oil pump kit,
    all gaskits,
    crank polish,
    new rockers screws,
    new Denso plugs,
    new Ultima plug wires,
    oil,air & oil filter,

    parts cost = 8,800.Rs
    Lathe work = 2,500.Rs
    mechanical work = 5,000.Rs
    alternator+distributor+ignition system service = 300.Rs
    miscellaneous = 900.Rs

    total = 17,500.Rs

    All this money, for not circulating the water with engine start. hence seizing the engine.

    So please Pakwheelers, take care of your cars, as they are at your service, & a blessing from ALLAH.
    hope this wouldn't happen with anyone else.

    & unfortunately if it happens, please discuss your matter on Pakwheels.com with experts like smijaz bhai & Xulfiqar bhai

    Comments are welcomed,

    regards.
    I'm struggling to please ALLAH, I'll suggest you do the same.

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    now if your block is opened up, get to work with a brass brush and rust dissolver (citric acid solution or some dilute battery acid) to clean up the water jackets and cooling galleries - clean out the coolant transfer pipes to the heater and above the transmission - once your engine is done - get a fill round of coolant (caltex is good) - ZIC is better.

    please be double sure that you rinse the whole cleanup places with baking soda solution after you are done with the acid (it will neutralize any acid)
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by adyiator View Post
    @smijaz

    @Xulfiqar

    brother, you have been a lot of help, what i did, was discussed all matters with you guys here, and then analyzed the situation at workshop.
    I was making a hasty decision by not putting new bigends & bearings, which were scratched.

    so now, engine is completely being overhauled.
    new rings,
    new pistons (w/o connecting rods),
    new bigends, bearings,
    valve seat grinding,
    cylinder wall polish,
    new thrust collars,
    head & block face (repair),
    new valve guides,
    new oil pump kit,
    all gaskits,
    crank polish,
    new rockers screws,
    new Denso plugs,
    new Ultima plug wires,
    oil,air & oil filter,

    parts cost = 8,800.Rs
    Lathe work = 2,500.Rs
    mechanical work = 5,000.Rs
    alternator+distributor+ignition system service = 300.Rs
    miscellaneous = 900.Rs

    total = 17,500.Rs

    All this money, for not circulating the water with engine start. hence seizing the engine.

    So please Pakwheelers, take care of your cars, as they are at your service, & a blessing from ALLAH.
    hope this wouldn't happen with anyone else.

    & unfortunately if it happens, please discuss your matter on Pakwheels.com with experts like smijaz bhai & Xulfiqar bhai

    Comments are welcomed,

    regards.
    I wish your investment pays off in terms of trouble free motor for 100K+ kms.

    Good to know that you didnt compromised on the oil pump .

    Use Caltex havoline Formula for the initial 1000Kms with a good filter like VIC then you can move to ZIC A (10-40W) semi synthetic.

    How much did you pay for the tappet adjustment screws on the rocker arms?

    Thanks for the appreciation but I am not an expert, Mr. Xulfiqar sure is.

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    SmIjaz Bahi,

    Could you please diagnose the problem of my Khyber 91. When I drive the car on 40-50 speed in 3rd gear then a very light sound comes out from engine side just like old yamaha bike clutch Buxa sounds( Ghoooon Ghoooon). To day I have changed the Oil of my rode and used Petromin Ultra 7 20-w-50 but no improvement in that particular sound. Clutch is so hard. Mechenic told me to change the clutch wire. When I put 2nd gear a CRUK like sound appear also but just only in 2nd gear. Ride gave me 196KM on 8 kg cylinder on G.T Road yesterday. This is the brief description of my ride. CNG KIT and cylinder needs to be tuned. Is this gear sound and engine sound + little bad pic is due to CNG Tuning and Clutch Plates??? Please guide me.

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