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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    Thanks Xulfiqar and ijaz for replying

    actually the foaming issue is gone after getting the fan on auto...
    changed the oil to havoline with guard filter, checked next morning and found no foaming in the oil cap...

    about the T-stat, i usually take it out in summer and put it back when its cold. so as the summer is almost on, so no plan to put in the T-stat valve...

    i have checked the PCV as mentioned above, but if want to get a new one, where will i find it in islamabad/pindi and what will it cost?

    "valve cover brather/baffle" : i think you are referring to the opening at the top of tappet cover which goes to PCV and filter. I will check by blowing through it (with the oil cap off)...

    One question: Should the 10W-40 grade be used in ambient temperature of 40+ degrees. as far as i know we cant use it in summer?
    if we do it will create sludge and can cease your engine...
    Please correct me if i am wrong...

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    Quote Originally Posted by metalhead View Post
    Thanks Xulfiqar and ijaz for replying

    actually the foaming issue is gone after getting the fan on auto...
    changed the oil to havoline with guard filter, checked next morning and found no foaming in the oil cap...

    about the T-stat, i usually take it out in summer and put it back when its cold. so as the summer is almost on, so no plan to put in the T-stat valve...

    i have checked the PCV as mentioned above, but if want to get a new one, where will i find it in islamabad/pindi and what will it cost?

    "valve cover brather/baffle" : i think you are referring to the opening at the top of tappet cover which goes to PCV and filter. I will check by blowing through it (with the oil cap off)...

    One question: Should the 10W-40 grade be used in ambient temperature of 40+ degrees. as far as i know we cant use it in summer?
    if we do it will create sludge and can cease your engine...
    Please correct me if i am wrong...
    You can see for yourself now that a hot engine will actually last longer - the hot engine removed the water vapours from the crankcase and not mix with the lubricating oil.

    Why do you remove the T-stat in the summers - removing the valve affects both temperature and flow of coolant, the flow of coolant is so fast in a speeding engine that it cannot actually rest and suck the heat from the metal and similarly not shed heat fast enough in the radiator. The stat helps to keep coolant slowed down properly, this also decreases the chance of cavitation (cavitation is what you see as little pits on the waterpump and cooling gallery internals)

    If you are facing radiator effeciency issues, be sure that your fan blades are not warped out of shape due to heat, and that the fan shroud is perfectly sealed that it wont suck air from the sides but wholly through the radiator core. If it still is not helping (meaning drinking water on your planet is more like hot bath water) install a multipass radiator - I have these designed myself for Suzuki Bolan, Mehran, and Cultus for the fleets I have contracted. They help in cooling down the engine with considerable efficiency

    the breather baffle is spot welded in the valve cover from the inside - I have seen cases where sludge had reduced the opening to 10% of original size, those vehicles were suffering from similar creamy and foamy oil - lack of power and leaking oil seals too.

    For PCV valves - buy a new one - suzuki sell it for about Rs 500/-.

    You can use 10W40 in your engine but I would check oil pressure at normal temperature - just to be safe.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    ive already got the chimtay repaired,do re-repairment can cause some panga?
    how much new will cost?i mean some local brand?
    If you have got services of a good reliable mechanist then go ahead with re-repairment he will open up the ball joint, fix teflon bushing and put it back. Also replace the rubber bushing called chimta bush on the other side which is fixed in the chassis.

    I replaced them a year back when overhauled the engine, the company was local "Emco" but they are doing very good till now, paid Rs. 900 for a set then.

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    Quote Originally Posted by metalhead View Post
    Thanks Xulfiqar and ijaz for replying

    actually the foaming issue is gone after getting the fan on auto...
    changed the oil to havoline with guard filter, checked next morning and found no foaming in the oil cap...

    about the T-stat, i usually take it out in summer and put it back when its cold. so as the summer is almost on, so no plan to put in the T-stat valve...

    i have checked the PCV as mentioned above, but if want to get a new one, where will i find it in islamabad/pindi and what will it cost?

    "valve cover brather/baffle" : i think you are referring to the opening at the top of tappet cover which goes to PCV and filter. I will check by blowing through it (with the oil cap off)...

    One question: Should the 10W-40 grade be used in ambient temperature of 40+ degrees. as far as i know we cant use it in summer?
    if we do it will create sludge and can cease your engine...
    Please correct me if i am wrong...
    Good to know the issue is resolved but ... i will endorse Xulfiqar in suggesting you to install T.Stat. Also use ethylene glycol based coolant (1:1 ) from Zic or any reputed brand to avoid T.Stat malfunction due to rust etc. It will be a good investment to secure your investment on engine rebuild.

    SAE 10-40W (Synthetic blends like ZIC A & Shell HX-7) covers our summer driving conditions quite well with added benefit of fuel economy and long drain (VIC/micro/Leppon oil filters). Just maintain proper drain interval e.g. 5K max for semi synthetics and 3K for minerals to minimize sludge formation.

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    i need help about my Khyber is that it is decreasing the oil in a month and i have to put a least one liter. their is no smoke out from the silencer on petrol the water also come fro the silencer.Please give some suggestion. thank you

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    thanks for the detailed replies...

    looking at the benefits of putting in T-stat, i will install it soon.
    regarding the radiator fan; yes, the blades are deformed and i will replace it also. i have heard of 5-blade fan; Is it better? also is it easily available? Also there is a little play in the fan motor shaft. Will i need to replace its bearings/bushes?
    I havnt felt that the radiator is not efficient enough. and havent used coolant before.

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    ijaz bhai if local ones r doin good for u,ill b gettin new ones,kabli stuff is all loot,...so i think ill go for new ones...

    hay just out of curiosity ,do keepin the car on gear n keepin clutch pressed has any negative effect?i mean i usually get car neutral on red signals,n even wen car is movin n stopping rapidly on slow moving trafic,i try to keep clutch free ,i dont knw its became my habbit,so im not doin any damage right?
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    Quote Originally Posted by metalhead View Post
    thanks for the detailed replies...

    looking at the benefits of putting in T-stat, i will install it soon.
    regarding the radiator fan; yes, the blades are deformed and i will replace it also. i have heard of 5-blade fan; Is it better? also is it easily available? Also there is a little play in the fan motor shaft. Will i need to replace its bearings/bushes?
    I havnt felt that the radiator is not efficient enough. and havent used coolant before.
    I had the 5 blade fan installed a while back and got it for Rs. 300 from bilal gunj. It was not easily available as only one shop had it back then. The only difference I noticed with it was it was quieter other than that the air though was almost the same as of 4 blade one, dont know why.

    If the shaft play is due to worn out bush then instead of fixing a new bush ask the lathe worker to install bearing instead.

    Primary function of the coolant is to protect the whole cooling system from rust, reduce steam build up to reduce stress on rubber parts and minimize cylinder block corrosion by efficiently picking up heat from around the combustion chamber and much more. Tap water just cools and misses out on every thing else. Now decide for ur self.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    ijaz bhai if local ones r doin good for u,ill b gettin new ones,kabli stuff is all loot,...so i think ill go for new ones...

    hay just out of curiosity ,do keepin the car on gear n keepin clutch pressed has any negative effect?i mean i usually get car neutral on red signals,n even wen car is movin n stopping rapidly on slow moving trafic,i try to keep clutch free ,i dont knw its became my habbit,so im not doin any damage right?
    If clutch is properly adjusted and pressed then there is no harm in keeping it in gear while passing thu stop and go traffic but on signal u should put the car in neutral to relax. Using the gear lever too frequently has no drastic effects on the engine or transmission but driver might get tired.

    Hope i cleared the point u were asking for, if not i will elaborate further

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    ok...i dont get tired by keepin n takin out gears...its just i dont like keep pressuring the clutch ,its in good shape n presses up good...
    thnx for the clarification...
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    Quote Originally Posted by metalhead View Post
    thanks for the detailed replies...

    looking at the benefits of putting in T-stat, i will install it soon.
    regarding the radiator fan; yes, the blades are deformed and i will replace it also. i have heard of 5-blade fan; Is it better? also is it easily available? Also there is a little play in the fan motor shaft. Will i need to replace its bearings/bushes?
    I havnt felt that the radiator is not efficient enough. and havent used coolant before.

    if the shaft is wobbly and the blades are warped - throw the fan away - and find yourself the 12 connected curved blade fan from a Hyundai - it comes with its own shroud and can fit with a little modification to the radiator or make some metal strips to connect the holes - OR if you know a good denter he can install the whole fan/motor assy into your original metal shroud.

    This Hyundai fan is very good and quiet - and the blades will not warp either. Ive used it in many cars - If you are looking for out of this world air movement - get a spal 13 inch - This fan would require a sturdy Bosch relay with diode and a capacitor on the fan connector, or a snubber as when it kicks on it sucks about 25 amps and stabilises at 17 amps and is so loud people would be hearing your car from down the road. But it will feel like a tornado in the engine bay.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedster_101 View Post
    From the last couple of days I was hearing some buzzing sound form my Khyber's front wheels at high speeds. Got it checked today. The mechanic said the wheel bearings are gone.
    In Khyber one front wheel hub has 2 set of bearings. So total 4 were needed. There were many Chinese companies and a few Japanese ones. The best one according to the mechanic and machinist was "KOYO JAPAN". One set was of 425 Rs. So bought four for Rs 1700.

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc) - 210065
    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc) - 210066

    The Chimtas (Arms) were also gone. They were too loose at ball joints. Kabuli stuff for Khyber is very short nowadays, I was not able to find good Kabuli Chimtas, one shopkeeper was selling them for 4000 Rs, so mechanic asked me to get the existing ones repaired. I got them repaired for 300 Rs. He changed Chimta bushes at one end and the rubber/plastic part near ball joints (I guess its called Chimta boot?). Khyber's Chimta has hole in the middle, so two bushes for each Chimta were also needed there when it is being installed in car. Those bushes were also changed.

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc) - 210064

    Tool was also applied on the discs.
    In the end, wheel alignment was done.
    To get a long life out of these replacement bearings - buy the rubber sealed ones and buy a jar of very good quality NLGI2 bearing grease from SKF or any good quality lube shop - COFRAN have a good range, Mobil X222 (blue NLGI2 cartridge) - if you are picky on quality go the Mercedes shop and buy a tube of genuine green MB bearing grease, remove the bearing seal very carefully and fill will grease pumping it with the palm of your hand or the tip of your finger Reinstall bearing seal. Install the bearings and then also fill the outer grease seal with grease too for water to stay out, It will work for a long time.

    The usual bearings nowadays lack grease for some reason - I also fill new FWD bearings with a little more grease just to be safe. Ive Never had to change the ones I greased.

    btw Koyo are not all that, the best bearings I have experienced are SKF and EFF AG (PW censors the real name hence the EFF) - a little pricey but worth the money - BUT only bought from authorized agencies that sell channeled items not gray import (khapiyay) items.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by libra3 View Post
    i need help about my Khyber is that it is decreasing the oil in a month and i have to put a least one liter. their is no smoke out from the silencer on petrol the water also come from the silencer.Please give some suggestion. thank you
    Can anyone tell me anything

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    Good

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    .
    Say NO to OPEN LETTERS

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    Quote Originally Posted by libra3 View Post
    i need help about my Khyber is that it is decreasing the oil in a month and i have to put a least one liter. their is no smoke out from the silencer on petrol the water also come fro the silencer.Please give some suggestion. thank you
    To help us pinpoint the issue, You need to describe the problem with a little bit of service or maintenance history like overhaul if any or like when did the problem started or any recent workshop visit. Any views from a mechanic etc
    otherwise the answer will be simple as given below

    There are following causes of engine decreasing oil

    1. leakage
    2. Weak Valve stem seals
    3. worn out rings
    4. improper/low grade oil
    5. oil burning out due to over heating

    Anyways, check and report spark plug condition of all three cylinders.

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    To help us pinpoint the issue, You need to describe the problem with a little bit of service or maintenance history like overhaul if any or like when did the problem started or any recent workshop visit. Any views from a mechanic etc
    otherwise the answer will be simple as given below

    There are following causes of engine decreasing oil

    1. leakage
    2. Weak Valve stem seals
    3. worn out rings
    4. improper/low grade oil
    5. oil burning out due to over heating

    Anyways, check and report spark plug condition of all three cylinders.
    Thank you for reply smijaz.i have post the complete detail but no one notice. i have recently buy the car. the car is park for one year and it is on petrol and i fit the CNG on it after one month. first oil is leak from tappet join and distributor seal i change it. But still it decrease the oil, it decrease oil when i go to Islamabad to Lahore or drive the car in the city (after two weeks/when went to Lahore i have to add about 1 liter oil). now their is no leakage. the plug become very dirty after one month. Mechanic is saying the rings problem.

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    ijaz bhai n xulifiqar bhai..
    today i went to AC shop,a well reputed one in pindi,i asked him for multi flow condenser for khyber n he said tht it cant b installed in khyber..only simple ome can b installed..
    is it true???
    plus i asked abt coil of ac,its is lyk 5500 for original sanden,n 3500 for chinses sanden..
    which one to go for?
    (coil tht one which is next to AC blower)
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    @cracked
    Have you installed new control arms (Chimtas) in your Khyber?
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    Quote Originally Posted by libra3 View Post
    Thank you for reply smijaz.i have post the complete detail but no one notice. i have recently buy the car. the car is park for one year and it is on petrol and i fit the CNG on it after one month. first oil is leak from tappet join and distributor seal i change it. But still it decrease the oil, it decrease oil when i go to Islamabad to Lahore or drive the car in the city (after two weeks/when went to Lahore i have to add about 1 liter oil). now their is no leakage. the plug become very dirty after one month. Mechanic is saying the rings problem.
    If plugs are getting oily then engine need to be opened. once its open

    check the following

    1. valve stem and guide clearance
    2. head and block face
    3. oil pump
    4. crank & cam shaft
    5. main & big end
    6. timing belt
    7. cylinder bore

    replace the following

    1. All rubber seals and gasket
    2. valve stem seals

    If you have the budget then proceed ASAP otherwise use a can (450 ml approx) of oil treatment in the engine oil (donot over fill). it will hide the symptoms and will reduce oil reduction.

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