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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    1380 posts so far! goldmine of khyber info! though i dont have anything to add (sorry!), but i'll say to everyone on this thread....a job well done!
    Selling Vitz+local cars - compatible bluetooth Ecu Scantool, High-amp car chargers, Apple-certified Lightning Cables, etc. Click on my name and see my started threads for details.

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    @fas133
    Thanks for providing the diagram of blower motor unit. Do you have any idea how much should I pay the electrician for getting that job done?
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedster_101 View Post
    @fas133
    Thanks for providing the diagram of blower motor unit. Do you have any idea how much should I pay the electrician for getting that job done?
    I once did it myself and found a dry leaf and a toffee wraper in it. Just the three bolts and it should come off easily. Remember to unplug the blower speed resistor pack first. Open and clean it from inside, it catches dust also.

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    I have Chevrolet Sprint User manual in pdf. How can i upload it? The attachments only allow 5.86Mb images...

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    ^^^Create an account on 4shared.com - free file sharing and storage , upload it there and share the link.
    Say NO to OPEN LETTERS

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    @Fas133

    Thanks for contributing 66 very helpful posts to the thread and khyber community.

    I would like to highlight your name as expert in the title post alongside Xulfiqar

    Plz keep up the good work.

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    Today while on my way back from Shadman, my car's engine turned off without any jerk or any apparent cause. I knew something big went wrong so without giving it any try to restart i parked the car on the side and checked the following
    1. Ignition Fuse (OK)
    2. CNG regulator (OK, Solenoid is clicking on and off)
    3. ignition coil input (12V)
    4. Distributor connectors
    The minor probable causes were ruled out , now to major ones and 1st in line is the timing belt. to verify that
    I put the car in 4th gear, removed the distributor cap to see the rotor and pushed the car back while looking at the rotor , it didnt moved meaning the link between cam and crank is gone (timing belt broke).

    So called a friend to purchase and bring me the belt there. With the tool box in my car i planned to install the new one myself then and there.

    It took about 20 minutes to open up all the belts, pulleys and cover. 20 minutes to adjust the timing and install the belt. 30 minutes to put every thing back.

    After that came the moment of truth and Thanks to Allah Car started on half cycle and i got home safely.

    Note: "It is never a good idea to crank the engine with a broken timing belt"

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    @smijaz
    Excellent response in diagnosing the problem. If it had happened to me, i would be buying some valves for my car...

    I once opened the timing belt cover to check belt tension. Pulley bolts gave me a little hard time.

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    Today while on my way back from Shadman, my car's engine turned off without any jerk or any apparent cause. I knew something big went wrong so without giving it any try to restart i parked the car on the side and checked the following
    1. Ignition Fuse (OK)
    2. CNG regulator (OK, Solenoid is clicking on and off)
    3. ignition coil input (12V)
    4. Distributor connectors
    The minor probable causes were ruled out , now to major ones and 1st in line is the timing belt. to verify that
    I put the car in 4th gear, removed the distributor cap to see the rotor and pushed the car back while looking at the rotor , it didnt moved meaning the link between cam and crank is gone (timing belt broke).

    So called a friend to purchase and bring me the belt there. With the tool box in my car i planned to install the new one myself then and there.

    It took about 20 minutes to open up all the belts, pulleys and cover. 20 minutes to adjust the timing and install the belt. 30 minutes to put every thing back.

    After that came the moment of truth and Thanks to Allah Car started on half cycle and i got home safely.

    Note: "It is never a good idea to crank the engine with a broken timing belt"
    good thinking of checking the stuff before attempting to twist the key
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    Today while on my way back from Shadman, my car's engine turned off without any jerk or any apparent cause. I knew something big went wrong so without giving it any try to restart i parked the car on the side and checked the following
    1. Ignition Fuse (OK)
    2. CNG regulator (OK, Solenoid is clicking on and off)
    3. ignition coil input (12V)
    4. Distributor connectors
    The minor probable causes were ruled out , now to major ones and 1st in line is the timing belt. to verify that
    I put the car in 4th gear, removed the distributor cap to see the rotor and pushed the car back while looking at the rotor , it didnt moved meaning the link between cam and crank is gone (timing belt broke).

    So called a friend to purchase and bring me the belt there. With the tool box in my car i planned to install the new one myself then and there.

    It took about 20 minutes to open up all the belts, pulleys and cover. 20 minutes to adjust the timing and install the belt. 30 minutes to put every thing back.

    After that came the moment of truth and Thanks to Allah Car started on half cycle and i got home safely.

    Note: "It is never a good idea to crank the engine with a broken timing belt"
    excellent diagnost and very well effort , hats off to u dude !!
    Crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedster_101 View Post
    @fas133
    Thanks for providing the diagram of blower motor unit. Do you have any idea how much should I pay the electrician for getting that job done?
    Maximum Rs.200. or u can do it ur self easily if u have the tools.There are three screws beneath the motor that u can unscrew with the help of a screwdriver and so dismantle the blower unit only.

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -312776

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    Default Clutch Plate and Pressure Plate Replacement

    I have replaced the clutch and pressure plates of my Khyber in August.The expenses detail is as under.

    F.C.C Clutch Plate and Pressue Plate: Rs.4700
    N.T.N. Clutch Bearing : Rs. 1050
    NOK Axle Seals (2 No.'s) : Rs. 180
    NACHI FlyWheel Bearing : Rs. 150
    Labour : Rs.1000
    Job Time : 5 Hours

    Assembled New Clutch and Pressure Plate (Assembled just for checking)
    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -313170

    Clutch Bearing Packing / No.
    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -313171

    Engine View with Flywheel Removed
    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -313172

    Clutch and Pressure Plate Packing
    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -313173

    Gear Box View before cleaning
    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -313176

    New Clutch Plate Bearing
    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -313177

    New Clutch Plate
    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -313178

    New Pressure Plate
    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -313179

    Old Clutch and Pressure Plate
    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -313181
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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    my car has done 50k kms after engine overall and i still feel the clutch plate and pressure plate is OK..i mean on petrol and cng,the car can still spin the front tyres if left clutch with force.. and on heights it also goes good too..i dont know wat company is the pressure and clutch plate,but its still running good.. allah ka shukar hy !
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    my car has done 50k kms after engine overall and i still feel the clutch plate and pressure plate is OK..i mean on petrol and cng,the car can still spin the front tyres if left clutch with force.. and on heights it also goes good too..i dont know wat company is the pressure and clutch plate,but its still running good.. allah ka shukar hy !
    It all depends on driving style. One can wear out a good clutch in a few months if he is always in sprinting mood. Cool driving with minimum slipping of clutch, i.e. full engagement of clutch at minimum possible rpm and then pressing throttle, is the best way to save clutch as well as fuel.

    Slipping tires will also save you clutch because it engages instantly and start spinning the tires but the tires will wear out soon.

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    spinning tires will engage it soon but will kill it sooner :p
    im never in so hurry to actually drive hard :p
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    a brand new clutch can easily last ten years with proper cautious use.
    Selling Vitz+local cars - compatible bluetooth Ecu Scantool, High-amp car chargers, Apple-certified Lightning Cables, etc. Click on my name and see my started threads for details.

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    Quote Originally Posted by metalhead View Post
    It all depends on driving style. One can wear out a good clutch in a few months if he is always in sprinting mood. Cool driving with minimum slipping of clutch, i.e. full engagement of clutch at minimum possible rpm and then pressing throttle, is the best way to save clutch as well as fuel.

    Slipping tires will also save you clutch because it engages instantly and start spinning the tires but the tires will wear out soon.
    ^+1

    Releasing clutch instantly puts extra stress on the clutch plate spring assembly and drive axles. And once the clutch damping is gone , smooth transmission is also out of the window. So clutch is not just about slip and grip.

    It is always a good idea to check the flywheel pilot bearing for proper function and clearance with the transmission shaft.

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    as smijaz said - the clutch plate hub springs will wear out and cause rough clutch release if you dump the clutch, the engine mounts also will tear apart and the entire transmission will take a massive shock.

    Whenever you replace the clutch, its ideal to replace the main large crank seal, and always use some antisieze on the transmission input shaft splines which engage in the clutch friction plate hub. It prevents chatter of the clutch if the surface becomes rusty.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    need help guys,

    As i have mentioned in my earlier post where i had to replace a broken timing belt on the road but failed to mention a small hitch that came along.

    It was that the timing belt which when i started the engine with out the cover on just to confirm its tension & timing adjustment, it started to roll outwards from the pullies. I ran out of ideas as to how to keep it from doing that as i didnot knew why it was doing that, then i assumed it was the tensioner bearing which is some how responsible or may be the belt is faulty. it was dark and i was in the middle of no where so i put every thing back and drove home, putting it to another days job. on the way the belt tore a hole in the T belt cover. i drove it like that for a couple a days with annoying "ghoon Ghoon" noise from rubbing belt.

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