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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    Today I bought a new T belt bearing (Rs. 850 NTN), a new TB cover (Rs. 180) and a new Timing belt (Rs. 225 Bando japan).

    DIY started at 11 am and finished by 2pm.

    Problem : Timing belt still slips off to an extent where it starts rubbing against the cover.

    Solution: ?? (PLEASE!)

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    Today i did the distributor overhaul. I found that the bearing plate's bearing was dusty and was not rotating smoothly. It had four clamps that holds the bearing balls and rings together. Cleaned it with petrol and greased the balls while assembling back. The movement was now smooth. Also greased a little the centrifugal advance weights where they slide a little.

    Result: the vacuum advance is working fine and i get smooth clutching and acceleration.

    Help: There is a seal in the mounting. It leaks and make a mess under the distributor. It looks like a square ring not an O-ring with circular cross-section. Can I put ordinary O-ring in place or do i need a special one?

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    Problem : Timing belt still slips off to an extent where it starts rubbing against the cover.

    Solution: ?? (PLEASE!)
    Can it be wear out toothed gears? IMO it seems the only reason. The T-belt is made of hard material with no stretching in it. It can wear out the toothed gears also. If the wear is on one side, the belt's going to slip.

    Experts please discuss!

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    Today I bought a new T belt bearing (Rs. 850 NTN), a new TB cover (Rs. 180) and a new Timing belt (Rs. 225 Bando japan).

    DIY started at 11 am and finished by 2pm.

    Problem : Timing belt still slips off to an extent where it starts rubbing against the cover.

    Solution: ?? (PLEASE!)
    the crank timing cog has two washers that keep the belt true and straight, the only thing that can actually force the belt off the cogs is a bent timing belt tensioner arm where the roller connects to. If its runs bent the belt will tend to slip outwards starting from the cam timing cog. you have replaced it with a new tensioner assy - it should solve it.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by metalhead View Post
    Today i did the distributor overhaul. I found that the bearing plate's bearing was dusty and was not rotating smoothly. It had four clamps that holds the bearing balls and rings together. Cleaned it with petrol and greased the balls while assembling back. The movement was now smooth. Also greased a little the centrifugal advance weights where they slide a little.

    Result: the vacuum advance is working fine and i get smooth clutching and acceleration.

    Help: There is a seal in the mounting. It leaks and make a mess under the distributor. It looks like a square ring not an O-ring with circular cross-section. Can I put ordinary O-ring in place or do i need a special one?

    It was round when new and now is pinched square thats why its leaking now.

    Are the weights moving freely and does the rotor snap back when manually moved against spring tension? If its kind of soft and a little sloppy the advance curve will be off and acceleration would suffer.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    I want to install Cultus' engine in my Khyber. I want to know, does this engine require any alteration in engine bay? does it fit perfectly? what is the price of Cultus engine with gearbox and wiring? what is the installation cost? and from where i should get the engine from? my options are Lahore and Pindi.

    thanks .
    I'm struggling to please ALLAH, I'll suggest you do the same.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    the crank timing cog has two washers that keep the belt true and straight, the only thing that can actually force the belt off the cogs is a bent timing belt tensioner arm where the roller connects to. If its runs bent the belt will tend to slip outwards starting from the cam timing cog. you have replaced it with a new tensioner assy - it should solve it.
    Thanks for the reply,

    The crank cog does have a washer which is on the engine block side only (I think it is like this in these engines).

    The belt does starts slipping out from the cam timing cog

    The tensioner assy consist of a bearing, 12mm bolt, spring and a metal arm which goes under the bearing in a way so it can rotate it in order to tighten the belt.

    Am i missing something?

    As I dont understand the part
    "the only thing that can actually force the belt off the cogs is a bent timing belt tensioner arm where the roller connects to."

    what should I replace?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    It was round when new and now is pinched square thats why its leaking now.

    Are the weights moving freely and does the rotor snap back when manually moved against spring tension? If its kind of soft and a little sloppy the advance curve will be off and acceleration would suffer.
    I will get the round seal today.

    The weights were moving freely and the rotor was snapping back easily. I just lubricated the point where the weight presses the rotating element to stretch the spring. There occurs a slight sliding, which was dry...

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    Thanks for the reply,

    The crank cog does have a washer which is on the engine block side only (I think it is like this in these engines).

    The belt does starts slipping out from the cam timing cog

    The tensioner assy consist of a bearing, 12mm bolt, spring and a metal arm which goes under the bearing in a way so it can rotate it in order to tighten the belt.

    Am i missing something?

    As I dont understand the part
    "the only thing that can actually force the belt off the cogs is a bent timing belt tensioner arm where the roller connects to."

    what should I replace?
    the arm thats holding the tensioner roller is bent, you can check it with a spirit level or square.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by adyiator View Post
    I want to install Cultus' engine in my Khyber. I want to know, does this engine require any alteration in engine bay? does it fit perfectly? what is the price of Cultus engine with gearbox and wiring? what is the installation cost? and from where i should get the engine from? my options are Lahore and Pindi.

    thanks .
    Yes, it will require alteration in the engine bay like gear side mountings. See Rozzz thread about G15 in his khyber, you will have a good idea about it from the pics.

    old carby engine will be around 40K with gearbox, but as you are mentioning wiring so i guess you are looking for efi, that will be 60K +. Not sure about now as these rates are few months old.

    Lasani in bilal gunj are famous for good suzuki parts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by adyiator View Post
    I want to install Cultus' engine in my Khyber. I want to know, does this engine require any alteration in engine bay? does it fit perfectly? what is the price of Cultus engine with gearbox and wiring? what is the installation cost? and from where i should get the engine from? my options are Lahore and Pindi.

    thanks .
    Why not peshawar?
    Here is the forum for engine prices in peshawar...

    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/whe...rices-peshawar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    It was round when new and now is pinched square thats why its leaking now.
    Today i bought the O-ring... Installed but the groove for it was too wide, like 1.5 times wider than the O-ring seal. The depth was a liitle less than the ring, so will do the sealing.

    Are the O-ring with larger cross-section dia available as standard?

    Also bought a new distributor cup. Previous had contacts worn out. New rotor was not looking good in quality and strength, so returned it back.

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    thanks smijaz.
    I'm struggling to please ALLAH, I'll suggest you do the same.

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    My car starts with first self on petrol early morning, but If i turn engine off after this, she wont start again easily!! I have to crank engine again and again and only with difficulty it starts again!!

    what could be the problem, If engine warms up and I then turn it off then there is no problem!!

    Car is Khyber 2000
    Das Auto, Der Golf!

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    Quote Originally Posted by bluespark View Post
    My car starts with first self on petrol early morning, but If i turn engine off after this, she wont start again easily!! I have to crank engine again and again and only with difficulty it starts again!!

    what could be the problem, If engine warms up and I then turn it off then there is no problem!!

    Car is Khyber 2000
    Do you use accelerator while cranking?

    When turned off by ignition key, does the engine immediately turns off or takes a second or two?

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    Do you use accelerator while cranking?

    When turned off by ignition key, does the engine immediately turns off or takes a second or two?
    early morning, I first press accelerator once and then crank the engine and as soon as it begins to start I push little more accelerator and car starts.At this moment car needs just one self, now if I leave the accelerator car would turn off itself (I need to keep accelerator press to keep it running till its little warm)

    Once it goes of, it wont start again and I have to crank it perhaps 5-6 times.

    Car is regularly driven on petrol and CNG and turned on petrol every night throughout the year!
    Das Auto, Der Golf!

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    ^^ thats why there is a choke knob to pull out, its for fast idle speed.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    ^^ thats why there is a choke knob to pull out, its for fast idle speed.
    Xulfiqar bhai car does missing if I pull the choke! so I rather keep accelerator little press...But yes I agree If I keep choke pulled it wont turn off!
    Das Auto, Der Golf!

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    why does it misfire, the choke plate should have a choke breaker on it too that pulls it slightly open when the engine starts.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    why does it misfire, the choke plate should have a choke breaker on it too that pulls it slightly open when the engine starts.
    No idea but can you suggest any solution to main issue, car not starting easily after it turns off?
    Das Auto, Der Golf!

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