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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    @smijaz
    Is not screw No. 76 for idle adjustment?
    Say NO to OPEN LETTERS

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    Say NO to OPEN LETTERS

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    metal head
    the float was ok,it just need adjustments!

    xulifiqar bhai
    butterfly was made new,like repaired!..carb was fully serviced with wd40 and anther carb cleaner spray,no wire was used in cleaning of carb.
    how to see if hot idle compensator is working or not?
    and how to see that the vaccum in distributor is working or not?

    i opened my distt cap,sucked air from the vaccum pipe,nothing happened in distt,i asked mechanic and he said it works on high rpms,the vaccum created by mouth is not much to pull distt inside things upwards...could this be faulty and causing hi consumption?
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    WD40 is not a good carburettor cleaner, and sometimes you need to use multiple sessions of carburettor cleaner to remove the sticky varnish from it, The worst is always blocking the air passages in the top hat. Ideally you spray - let alone to soften, scrub with some nylon bristles, use a long one to clean passages, spray again etc.

    You may not have used such wire methods but previous mechanics would have, Thats how their ustaads taught them, The distributor vacuum pod is ideally checked with a vacuum pump, or you can push it inward while sucking on the pipe, it should hold vacuum if you block the pipe with your tongue - its only a basic test to show that the pot is holding vacuum, the plate inside the distributor should move with slight resistance, meaning do not bathe it in grease or oil, just enough for it to move easily but with slightly slow movement.

    The hot idle compensator is temperature controlled, heat it up and blow through it it should be open, it should be blocked when cold. Its job is to lean out the idle mixture when hot by adding air directly to the manifold.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xplorer View Post
    @smijaz
    Is not screw No. 76 for idle adjustment?
    Its also called mixture needle/ screw.

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    xulifiqar bhai wd40 was used on some parts,mostly was cleanned with nasa carb cleaner...and carb was cleaned like in 3 hours,each and everything was dismantled and cleaned and things which were not in proper shape were changed with new parts from carb repair kit..

    ill check the distributor pod,i think its not working properly but ive to make it sure ..ill check it tomorrow.
    plus my car's air filter is blocked so the car can run on cng,does this can reduce mileage on petrol?if yes then how much? problem is i have to keep air filter blocked cuz car wont even start on unblocked filter..the venturi im using is of alto car that sits in air filter assembly
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    i drove car today solely on petrol,without the air restriction and in 500 of petrol,it drove like 80 kms and still is some fuel left,before that with restriction,it was like 60 kms..so yeah air restriction was the culprit..now ill take it off when ever i drove on petrol ... thanks all for help here!
    drove it on high rpms too but avg has improved!
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    Default Some snaps of Self Starter Service

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -345029

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -345030

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -345031

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -345032

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -345033

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -345034

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -345035

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -345036

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -345037

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    Question: When should one service the starter?

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    when u realize that the speed of the starter is very slow

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    NGK G-Force Irridium lagate na yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaar

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    Quote Originally Posted by jamishah View Post
    NGK G-Force Irridium lagate na yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaar
    ????

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    The mechanical fuel pump of my car is leaking so i was thinking to shift to the electronic one.Now the question is that if i use the electronic pump then is it necessary to provide the return path to petrol to go back to the petrol tank because the electronic pump has just two ports(Inlet and Outlet).

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    Quote Originally Posted by fas133 View Post
    The mechanical fuel pump of my car is leaking so i was thinking to shift to the electronic one.Now the question is that if i use the electronic pump then is it necessary to provide the return path to petrol to go back to the petrol tank because the electronic pump has just two ports(Inlet and Outlet).
    There is no need for return pipe in the electric fuel pump setup.

    You may also disconnect/remove the CNG/Petrol solenoid valve from the fuel loop and connect its wires to your new fuel pump with a relay.

    Two remove the clicking sound from your old mechanical pump,if any, you can remove the pump and pull out the steel pin from the head which runs on the cam. Replace the pump's gasket and put the old pump back to its position.

    Do share the end result with pics if you opt for electrical pump (DIY) .

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    why is your headlight/cooling fan idle up vacuum pot disconnected in the starter service pictures??

    btw smijaz - the return path is needed for the fuel lines unless your pump has a low pressure FPR built into it. If you look at the cultus/margalla setup - it has a return path at the inlet of the carburettor.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    why is your headlight/cooling fan idle up vacuum pot disconnected in the starter service pictures??

    btw smijaz - the return path is needed for the fuel lines unless your pump has a low pressure FPR built into it. If you look at the cultus/margalla setup - it has a return path at the inlet of the carburettor.
    @xulfiqar
    Idle Up Diaphragm was disconnected temporarily for the job and reconnected afterwards.
    @smijaz
    My car's mechanical fuel pump found to be ok and fuel was leaking from the pipe so no need to change it and now it's working fine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fas133 View Post
    @xulfiqar
    Idle Up Diaphragm was disconnected temporarily for the job and reconnected afterwards.
    @smijaz
    My car's mechanical fuel pump found to be ok and fuel was leaking from the pipe so no need to change it and now it's working fine.
    Good. Dont forget to use good quality pipe (one with polyester fibers embedded) it will cost you around Rs 50/foot. Dont use the locally made rubber only pipe it will become inflexible and crack in no time from engine heat.

    I had 2nd degree burns on my hand and a lost eyebrow from a tiny leak in the pipe near fuel pump. So be careful and be safe.

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    I need to change the brake fluid pipe from bottle to master cylinder (as shown in pic). Will bleeding be needed after this?
    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -349940
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xplorer View Post
    I need to change the brake fluid pipe from bottle to master cylinder (as shown in pic). Will bleeding be needed after this?
    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc) - 349940
    First of all cover the alternator with a plastic sheet or shopper bag, as the master brake cylinder is right over it and any spill of brake oil on alternator might damage its coil insulation or bearing or belt.

    The pipe you indicated is connected to secondary cylinder which is connected to front left and rear right wheel (right hand drive car).

    You should bleed the complete system if you want otherwise you must bleed the above two wheels starting from the rear right and then front left.

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    excellent thread thumbs up for your efforts ijaz , u are helping us in a lovely way , i have a question aswell , i just had my brake service done ,all were good except it just need oiling which my mechanic had done now my question is do i need complete bleeding after this as i can feel my brake is working good but it takes some inches and than it works , when i had my bleeding done before it works in a second as it was no air in btw , i am satisfied with the performance though still need a piece of advice that bleeding is necessary when ? thanks !!
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