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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    Quote Originally Posted by metalhead View Post
    What could be the problem...
    My cars starter solenoid switch disengages while cranking. The starter spins but the pinion disengages. I have to wait till the rotor stops and then it starts normal. This only happens when i switch off a warm engine and then start within a minute or two. Never happened while cold starting.

    Please suggest...
    Try installing a relay for the solenoid.

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    the solenoid hold coil is bad or is losing ground connection, check the field windings wire connections for bad ground connection

    usually the solenoid goes bad after a long service life, replace it.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    the solenoid hold coil is bad or is losing ground connection, check the field windings wire connections for bad ground connection

    usually the solenoid goes bad after a long service life, replace it.
    Thanks for the replies

    Ground connections will be checked and cleaned first. Service will be second and if the problem persists then will change the solenoid.

    Ijaz bhai, sorry i had already many relays installed; ignition, headlamps, blower fan. I dont want one more.

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    xulfiqua bhai i was wondering that can carb engine be converted to efi???? if yes then plz explain a little
    Burn rubber Not your Soul.! \m/

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    Default What can be the issue?

    Today when I opened air cleaner element of my Khyber to change the air filter, I saw white residue kind of paste near the outlet of Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve. When I opened the oil cap, same white paste was there too. I am using Petromin Ultra 7 oil (20W-50), the dipstick is showing normal oil level i.e near the maximum mark.
    I have taken the pictures.

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -371651

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -371652
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    that is accumulated moisture mixing with engine oil vapor. What is your engine operating temperature?
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Engine temperature is around 30-35% of the gauge. The fan is automatic and thermostat valve is installed.
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    The car is also reducing water. The radiator and side bottle is empty every morning, I have to fill it daily. But the radiator guy told me that the radiator cap is faulty. I have changed the radiator cap, lets see it reduces water now or not.
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedster_101 View Post
    Engine temperature is around 30-35% of the gauge. The fan is automatic and thermostat valve is installed.

    check head gaskit , its leak and mixing radiator water with engine oil , one it happens on my fx

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    Quote Originally Posted by umair911 View Post
    xulfiqua bhai i was wondering that can carb engine be converted to efi???? if yes then plz explain a little
    this idea came in my mind some time before when i see my mamu's baleno giving tons of trouble because of efi stuff,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but here i was thinking to change its air intake along with all the efi stuff with the manul one like we see in margalla ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,you thinking opposite of that

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedster_101 View Post
    The car is also reducing water. The radiator and side bottle is empty every morning, I have to fill it daily. But the radiator guy told me that the radiator cap is faulty. I have changed the radiator cap, lets see it reduces water now or not.
    Most probably, its the head gasket, if the engine temperature is not too cold. Your coolant is mixing in the engine oil...

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    you have a head gasket oil/coolant leak, fix that.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    you have a head gasket oil/coolant leak, fix that.
    Can it be malfunctioning PCV ??

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedster_101 View Post
    The car is also reducing water. The radiator and side bottle is empty every morning, I have to fill it daily. But the radiator guy told me that the radiator cap is faulty. I have changed the radiator cap, lets see it reduces water now or not.
    If the engine is leaking compression through head gasket and its pushing water from the cylinder jacket in to the oil passage then you will also have extra pressure in your coolant lines.

    You can confirm this by removing the radiator cap (while cold), fill up the radiator and start the engine if coolant is jumping out of the radiator mouth or you can see continuous stream of bubbles , the head gasket is gone.

    But my guess is your PCV is not evacuating crankcase vapors .

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    If the engine is leaking compression through head gasket and its pushing water from the cylinder jacket in to the oil passage then you will also have extra pressure in your coolant lines.

    You can confirm this by removing the radiator cap (while cold) and start the engine if coolant is jumping out of the radiator mouth or you can see continuous stream of bubbles , the head gasket is gone.

    But my guess is your PCV is not evacuating crankcase vapors .


    Ijaz bhai, that white creamy paste on oil cap only occurs when you have coolant mixing in oil. If oil mixes in coolant, you can also see greasy material on your radiator cap as well. So as xulfiqar diagnosed, its definitely a bad gasket.

    And by the looks of it PCV can be checked but as you can recall as well, there is usually minor oil deposit on the air cleaner housing where tappet cover/PCV hose connects. The white residue seen now is because that oil is now carrying moisture in it.
    The Soul's Journey After Death in Islam (www.bit.ly/SoulsJourney) -- Originally Shared by kse101

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    If the engine is leaking compression through head gasket and its pushing water from the cylinder jacket in to the oil passage then you will also have extra pressure in your coolant lines.

    You can confirm this by removing the radiator cap (while cold), fill up the radiator and start the engine if coolant is jumping out of the radiator mouth or you can see continuous stream of bubbles , the head gasket is gone.

    But my guess is your PCV is not evacuating crankcase vapors .
    Yes, when I open the radiator cap and press the accelerator, water starts pouring out of the radiator neck.
    If PCV Valve is bad and it is not evacuating crankcase vapors then why the same white paste is present in air cleaner in front of PCV valve outlet?
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    Can it be malfunctioning PCV ??
    Yes it can but that would also have shown a very sludge filled cylinder head - the poster has his engine oil cap removed and I can see the rocker arm really shiny.

    I am thinking along the lines that the valve cover has an oil separator in it - if it gets clogged such activity can result. It wont hurt to remove and clean the PCV so it rattles.
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedster_101 View Post
    Yes, when I open the radiator cap and press the accelerator, water starts pouring out of the radiator neck.
    If PCV Valve is bad and it is not evacuating crankcase vapors then why the same white paste is present in air cleaner in front of PCV valve outlet?
    pouring out or jumping out like its being blown with pressure?

    That pipe is also connected to the lid of the air cleaner which has vacuum too.

    Car running without thermostat or auto fan, shows similar kind of curd on the oil cap, that is coz the crankcase moisture get condensed when the car is turned off and enters the oil. this moisture is steamed out of the oil when the engine runs at its optimal temp. that steam alongwith other poisonous gases is fed to the intake, burnt and thrown out through exhaust.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Yes it can but that would also have shown a very sludge filled cylinder head - the poster has his engine oil cap removed and I can see the rocker arm really shiny.

    I am thinking along the lines that the valve cover has an oil separator in it - if it gets clogged such activity can result. It wont hurt to remove and clean the PCV so it rattles.
    Xulfiqar bhai, if its the gasket leak then that curd should be all over the cam and rockers, shouldnt it be?

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    pouring out or jumping out like its being blown with pressure?

    That pipe is also connected to the lid of the air cleaner which has vacuum too.

    Car running without thermostat or auto fan, shows similar kind of curd on the oil cap, that is coz the crankcase moisture get condensed when the car is turned off and enters the oil. this moisture is steamed out of the oil when the engine runs at its optimal temp. that steam alongwith other poisonous gases is fed to the intake, burnt and thrown out through exhaust.
    Make sure that your engine is at operating temperature. I would suggest to run the engine hard for a few kms to heat up the oil enough to boil out the moisture.

    btw I usually saw this on Hondas whose PCV is connected from the block or on older models right from the sump, it was accumulated right below the PCV and the engines were perfectly normal.
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