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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    Default STAP installation Report

    I have installed the timing retarder in my khyber and it is working accordingly.Static Timing on petrol is around 5 degree BTDC and on cng is 18 degree BTDC.

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    Default

    ahsan bhai
    its a carb and distributor engine..i dont think it can have an advancer in it..farhan bhai has used STAP and seems to be ok with results.
    farhan bhai,pictures?
    i want a stap too!
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    Default

    STAP = advancer (Timing Advance Processor)

    for older cars such as mehran etc it retards timing when on petrol. basic achievement is that cng gets advanced timings.

    so get it. and get good results and peace of mind.
    Selling Vitz+local cars - compatible bluetooth Ecu Scantool, High-amp car chargers, Apple-certified Lightning Cables, etc. Click on my name and see my started threads for details.

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    Default

    @cracked
    For STAP pictures check out this link.It also contains the wiring diagram that i followed.
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/per...77#post3206355

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fas133 View Post
    I have installed the timing retarder in my khyber and it is working accordingly.Static Timing on petrol is around 5 degree BTDC and on cng is 18 degree BTDC.
    Good work...

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    oh my bad..see thats what can happen when you dont know about car's stuff
    anywho,now i know its advance r..
    can i find it new? from where if so? and price approx?
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    what are the possible reasons of smoke at cold start.

    i usually warm up the engine for few minutes at idle rpm (using choke in winter) with no sign of any smoke. if i rev even say upto 2500 during these few minutes, i get smoke from the tail pipe and its too much. i had to take the car out of the porch immediately so found it to be not normal. i can smell that its engine oil. after few minutes it gets ok.

    engine oil reduces not more than a quarter below the top level.

    Please list the possibilities...

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    Quote Originally Posted by metalhead View Post
    what are the possible reasons of smoke at cold start.

    i usually warm up the engine for few minutes at idle rpm (using choke in winter) with no sign of any smoke. if i rev even say upto 2500 during these few minutes, i get smoke from the tail pipe and its too much. i had to take the car out of the porch immediately so found it to be not normal. i can smell that its engine oil. after few minutes it gets ok.

    engine oil reduces not more than a quarter below the top level.

    Please list the possibilities...
    Exactly the same case with me, no smoke while idling in cold morning start but if reved even a little bit during warmup it will start giving smoke with oil burning smell and i also have to take it out of the porch .
    This smoke will clear out in about 5 minutes, later on no smoke the whole day even with high revs.

    My diagnosis is weak valve stem seals of cylinder # 1 in my case coz their is little bit of oil around the plug threads only not on the spark tip area. The other two are completely dry the tip and threads everything.

    I am just waiting to get some weekend free for the seal replacement.

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    My guess is that in your car radiator fan is in direct mode and electrical load idle up mechanism is not present or maladjusted.

    Your engine is running cold most of the time so the oil is retaining crankcase moisture instead of steaming it out, engine is running rich and blow by will be excessive. So Check PCV also.

    Check ground connection, plug wires and ignition timing. (For missing problem)

    Connect thermo switch with radiator fan and if possible install thermostat valve. Dont forget to use coolant otherwise just forget whatever i have said.
    Thanks Ijaz bhai,
    I have tons of questions for you
    My radiator fan is automatic. But I am not sure if the radiator fan starts at the right time. I have noticed that when the temperature needle reaches the middle of the meter, it starts the fan.Is there a way to check if thermo switch is working correctly ?
    Can you please let me know what is "electrical load idle up mechanism", and how to check if its working properly or its malfunctioned ?
    Can I repair PCV my self ? Is there any thread explaining more about it, I have searched but couldn't find something good enough.
    What diameter of wire is suitable to be used for ground connections, any specific brand ? How do i adjust the Ignition timing of my car ??
    Last Questions, What is thermastat valve, how to install it ?

    Looking for a positive response from you.

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    hello, i am new in pw but me pehle se is thread ko visit krta raha hn. i have a problem with my khyber me ne jab dashpot ka vacume pipe connect kya to wo badly idle krne lge both on petrol as well as on cng but jab me us ko remove krta hn to woh properly idle krne lagte h
    what is the problem? kya dashpot faulty h

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    Quote Originally Posted by Potoharian View Post
    Thanks Ijaz bhai,
    I have tons of questions for you
    My radiator fan is automatic. But I am not sure if the radiator fan starts at the right time. I have noticed that when the temperature needle reaches the middle of the meter, it starts the fan.Is there a way to check if thermo switch is working correctly ?
    Can you please let me know what is "electrical load idle up mechanism", and how to check if its working properly or its malfunctioned ?
    Can I repair PCV my self ? Is there any thread explaining more about it, I have searched but couldn't find something good enough.
    What diameter of wire is suitable to be used for ground connections, any specific brand ? How do i adjust the Ignition timing of my car ??
    Last Questions, What is thermastat valve, how to install it ?

    Looking for a positive response from you.
    1: Thermo switch for radiator: I think the thermo switch is working ok, as they rarely fall bad. But you can check it by running the engine with radiator cap removed. Use normal mercury thermometer or electronic one and put it (incase of electronic one its probe) in the mouth of the radiator. Note the reading when the fan kicks in. It should be around 90C to 95C.

    2: E load idle up: There is an electric solenoid valve (2 ports connection) near the upper engine mount alongside timing belt cover. One port is connected to vacuum hub on the intake manifold and the other is connected to a diaphram on the upper right corner of the carb (near brake booster). When ever any of the following are turned on
    1. head lights
    2. parking lights
    3. rear defogger
    4. a/c , heater blower
    5. radiator fan
    The solenoid allows the vacuum to pass and to actuate the diaphram on carburetor which in turn slightly increases (stabilizes) the engine speed (rpm) to compensate for the electrical load on alternator.


    3. PCV: I dont think the PCV unit in khyber is repairable. You can spray in carburetor cleaner while the engine is running (with rubber pipes removed along with air cleaner container). You should feel vacuum when you place finger on it while engine running. You may also hear a minor metallic click when you place and remove finger from over it. Other wise replace it. estimated cost of used unit is around 150 and if by chance you find a new OEM one it will be around 800.


    4: Ground: Use good quality 60A load capacity copper wire. No specific brand i know of.

    5. Ignition Timing: Ignition is set with the help of timing gun. 10-12 BTDC for petrol and 18-20BTDC for CNG. Timing gun is available starting from rs. 1400 in Lahore.

    6: Thermostat valve: Is a mechanical valve with a mechanism which allows it to open when the coolant temp reaches a certain limit and makes way for the coolant to pass through the radiator. In closed position it forces the coolant to bypass radiator. It helps in regulating engine temperature with in optimal range and also provide essential resistance in flow which causes a pressure effect making the coolant to properly collect heat from around the combustion camber.

    I will explain the installation process in detail later.

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    Quote Originally Posted by harisiqbal1 View Post
    hello, i am new in pw but me pehle se is thread ko visit krta raha hn. i have a problem with my khyber me ne jab dashpot ka vacume pipe connect kya to wo badly idle krne lge both on petrol as well as on cng but jab me us ko remove krta hn to woh properly idle krne lagte h
    what is the problem? kya dashpot faulty h
    The function of dashpot is to eliminate the jerk between shifts in manual transmission vehicle by briefly holding the the throttle and slowly release it to idle. This function is controlled by a slow release valve in between.

    My guess is that the daskpot diaphram is leaking. You can check it by connecting a longer pipe to it and suck it to see whether it works or not.

    If its leaking then replace it and in the mean while plug the vacuum pipe.

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    Quote Originally Posted by harisiqbal1 View Post
    hello, i am new in pw but me pehle se is thread ko visit krta raha hn. i have a problem with my khyber me ne jab dashpot ka vacume pipe connect kya to wo badly idle krne lge both on petrol as well as on cng but jab me us ko remove krta hn to woh properly idle krne lagte h
    what is the problem? kya dashpot faulty h
    IMO your dashpot plunger was pressing the throttle a little when disconnected. and the idle rpm was set by this dashpot instead of throttle idle set screw. when you connected the dashpot, the dashpot plunger retracted and the idle rpm went down.
    Simply set the idle rpm on petrol from the carb idle set screw and then do the gas setting from the cng regulator.

    Also check the dashpot and slow release valve for proper working. Mine valve was clogged.

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    Quote Originally Posted by smijaz View Post
    The function of dashpot is to eliminate the jerk between shifts in manual transmission vehicle by briefly holding the the throttle and slowly release it to idle. This function is controlled by a slow release valve in between.

    My guess is that the daskpot diaphram is leaking. You can check it by connecting a longer pipe to it and suck it to see whether it works or not.

    If its leaking then replace it and in the mean while plug the vacuum pipe.
    ok thanks, inshaallah i will check it today
    and by the way is dashpot diaphram available in the market?
    if yes then what we call it in local mechanic terms

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    after sucking dashpot ki rod thori se ander jati h. is ka kya matlab dashpot is working fine and the main culprit is slow release valve?

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    Quote Originally Posted by harisiqbal1 View Post
    after sucking dashpot ki rod thori se ander jati h. is ka kya matlab dashpot is working fine and the main culprit is slow release valve?
    This means its Ok. Try what @metalhead said, most probably its just a case of improper setting.

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    problem solved slow release valve was the main culprit after replacing car works fine thanks alot @smijaz and @metalhead

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    i didnt even replaced the valve, i just opened the small hole through it with a sewing needle and thread.
    It works like a one way valve but there is a small hole in the closed state and the air flows but with restriction.
    The dashpot plunger is retracted softly due to small leakage in valve and is released swiftly to be ready to hold the throttle for little time and release slowly. If this does not work properly, you will feel jerk when you release the race while driving in gears specially in lower gears.

    small thing but gives you smooth drive...

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    one more question
    mere car ki head gaskit last month jal gae the without any heatup to me ne change krade but after running 30km on short routes maximum 2 km per day there are again visible sign of water and oil mixing i am worried.
    my mechanic says it is normal after running in long routes water will evaporate
    is it ok or again i have to change head gaskit

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    Default khyber low mileage

    my khyber gives 80 km on full 50 kg cylender.i checked most of the mechanic,but the problem still exists.i also changed mang cng stations,before it give me 120 km.i also changed my air cleaner box.i also checked by carborator it works fine please help me

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