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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    The only plausible explanation I can think of now is that front springs really are of 1.3L vehicle (no matter what the vendor claims).
    Selling Vitz+local cars - compatible bluetooth Ecu Scantool, High-amp car chargers, Apple-certified Lightning Cables, etc. Click on my name and see my started threads for details.

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    Gear Oil is leaking from the indicated place.Please suggest solution.
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    solution???

    replace the oil seal and cover boot.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    replacement of seal and boot is the only solution once my car had the same problem replace the seal and clean the
    outer side.and its being a year now

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    A mechanic told me that gear box has to be opened to replace the oil seal.Please confirm is it true.

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    yeah he is right ,,,,,,,,,,,,,
    Quote Originally Posted by fas133 View Post
    A mechanic told me that gear box has to be opened to replace the oil seal.Please confirm is it true.

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    Okay guys got the springs changed.
    Got them replaced with the original ones.
    I checked both of them and noticed the original ones were around 1" bigger in length, but were much soft than the ones I got later.
    Got them fitted with the new dampers.
    The car has returned to its original height.
    I took pictures of the car to show the difference.
    The "After" picture was taken just after the replacement.
    Now after 2 days of driving, it has become a bit more low from the front.
    The second picture is of the car on its original springs.


    Quote Originally Posted by ahsanonline View Post
    The only plausible explanation I can think of now is that front springs really are of 1.3L vehicle (no matter what the vendor claims).
    Hmmm...
    Yup I think the same as they were quite hard.
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    The second picture looks perfect ride height to me, the wheel caster angle is screwed up though - the wheel is pushed too far back or the angle of the picture is making it look like that. Check the lower arm bushing and strut mount.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    The second picture looks perfect ride height to me, the wheel caster angle is screwed up though - the wheel is pushed too far back or the angle of the picture is making it look like that. Check the lower arm bushing and strut mount.
    After driving it for around 100 kms, it has become a bit more low from the front.
    This picture was taken just after the fitting was done.
    The caster angle is okay, its looking awkward because the steering was not straight, it was slightly turned towards left.

    Well I wanted to confirm one thing.
    When the original springs were mounted on the damper and were ready to fit in the car, I noticed that the springs were not evenly compressed.
    I mean the spring was having a bend on one side as if they were not properly mounted on the damper.
    This was the case with both springs.
    I showed it to my mechanic and he said its perfectly alright.
    What do you say about this?
    Is it okay or should they be straight?
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    as long as the damper itself is straight you are good. springs will make weird shapes
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    as long as the damper itself is straight you are good. springs will make weird shapes
    Ookay!

    There is another issue that needs to be resolved.
    When I was getting the dampers replaced, my mechanic removed the lower suspension arm as the rubber boot of the end which sits in the chassis mount was damaged.
    He checked and told me that the mount needs finishing.
    The inner surface of the mount was uneven and bent which resulted in the bent bush, thus damaging it.
    I got a new bush and took the car to my denter who was unavailable but his chota tried to do the job.
    He grinded the inner side of the mount (Highlighted in blue) and then welded a metal sheet which was cut accordingly.
    Then he straightened the other side (Higlighted in red) and tried to fit the suspension arm but it wont fit in because the holes were not in line and the bolt would not pass through with the suspension arm installed.
    Now what he did was, that he widened the hole (highlighted in red) just to bring the holes in a straight line.
    The suspension arm was fitted but the front hole (highlighted in red) was widened too such an extent that atleast 4~5 bolts can be passed through it at the same time.
    He placed a washer over the widened hole and tightened the suspension arm and told me not too worry.
    I was not satisfied and on the way back home I noticed that on every speed bump my car would make creaking/squeaking noises at the front right wheel.
    Now I'll be going to my denter again to get it done the proper way and I need some help that what would be the best way to repair what that chota has done?
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    Plus I forgot to mention that I can feel the car sway in the lane if there is a curve in the road even at speeds of 60km/h.
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    fudging around with the arm mount like that - so much that 5 bolts can fit is a sureway to ensure that your caster angle never would be correct. You need to do some measurements now on the otherside and make sure that its completely accurate.

    the swaying is also a sign of bad rubber bushing on the arm - if you take it to high speed it will vibrate badly too
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    fudging around with the arm mount like that - so much that 5 bolts can fit is a sureway to ensure that your caster angle never would be correct. You need to do some measurements now on the otherside and make sure that its completely accurate.

    the swaying is also a sign of bad rubber bushing on the arm - if you take it to high speed it will vibrate badly too
    Hmmm...
    A bolt had its threads stripped, I went to a nearby shop to get a new one.
    When I returned I saw what he did with the mount and shouted at him.
    He gave me that typical reply: "Nahi nahi gee kuch nahi hota, hum roz aisi das gaariyan theek krte hain; Humara to kaam he yehi hai gee." (Oh how I hate this sentence)
    Anyways how can I measure it now and make sure that both holes are in line?
    I noticed that there is no visible gap between the suspension arm and the mount on the left side where as on this side there was visible gap between both ends of the mount and the arm end.
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    to measure it you need to make some tools that can attach to both sides of the car in the same way, then you have to measure the angle of the bolt hole and make the fudged up one like the original one.
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    ^ Okay.
    I'll ask my denter to do it the proper way.
    Will report back once I get it done.
    Thankyou!
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    So the mount was re-done in a proper way today.
    The suspension arm now fits in without any issues and the bolt that holds it is also in a straight line.
    After the finishing was done my denter fitted back all the stuff and asked me to take a test drive.
    I did, and took the car to rough roads, over some 7~8 speed bumps slowly, and with speed on some.
    I was happy that there was no creaking or squeaking noise.
    I returned to him and gave him the okay signal.
    Every thing was removed again and the base was prepared for paint.
    Now after painting it, the fitting was done and now once again I can hear squeaking sound, (its very less now) whenever I cross a speed bump.
    It squeaks from the right side when the car is climbing the bump, no sound is heard when it comes down from the bump or hits any pot hole etc.
    Plus the alignment was disturbed after this so I got that done aswell.

    Here are the pictures.
    The first one is of the widened hole.
    The second one is after the paint was done.
    Then are the final pictures.
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    The lower arm (chimta) does not seem to be fitting straight in the slot. The bush is bent to a side such that one end of bush is free and other end is pressed. A picture of the left one will show the difference...

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    ^ Same is the case with the left one.
    I checked this too.
    The outer end of the lower suspension arm is directed towards the front. It is not in a straight line. (Will try to get the picture of the other side too.)
    About the bush, then I examined it aswell.
    Its like this on the other side aswell. (Thick on one side and thin on other)
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    can anyone tell me how to test the current coil's health with a multimeter? And also plug wires?
    I was driving it by a kind of instinct, only I was in a different dimension...............................Ayrton Senna

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