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Thread: Liana owners & fan club

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    bring it on...

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    Quote Originally Posted by nomi700 View Post
    replaced the existing Bosch 4tip with Denso Irridium IK 20
    liana Owners & fan club -1046998liana Owners & fan club -1046999liana Owners & fan club -1047000
    Dear nauman bhai,
    what inclined you choose ik 20?Were you previously using ik 20?40k driving,why?
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    Now you are contemplating a step colder by putting ik20,manual says ik16 from denso and bkr6e from ngk,electrically conductive deposits may form on the insulator (fouling) causing a loss of spark energy or the actual shorting-out of the spark current. Idling is affected, and in the long run, misfires will happen and of course loss of power but if you can take very good care of your vehicle it might be ok.
    A colder plug like IK20 might be good for continuous long runs, but not so good for short distance travels.One of the reasons why there is a heat rating is that the plugs need to be "self-cleaned" by incineration. The deposits get burned away with higher heat. Of course you can't have it too high because there will reduce plug life and performance. Higher heat rating plugs conduct heat more efficiently to the coolant system.If your engine runs very hot due to high combustion temperatures , then you will have to take higher heat rating plugs. IK16 is hotter than IK20 means, heat accumulated at IK16 is less dissipated than at IK20.
    With IK20, probability of misfire is alittle higher as mostly our throttle is only between 1500-3000 and rarely need to reach 4000, hence, may have less heat for 100% self-cleaning and affirmative firing. For city driving, and short trips 16 would be better and also recommended by the manufacturer.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Skill View Post
    Now you are contemplating a step colder by putting ik20,manual says ik16 from denso and bkr6e from ngk,electrically conductive deposits may form on the insulator (fouling) causing a loss of spark energy or the actual shorting-out of the spark current. Idling is affected, and in the long run, misfires will happen and of course loss of power but if you can take very good care of your vehicle it might be ok.
    A colder plug like IK20 might be good for continuous long runs, but not so good for short distance travels.One of the reasons why there is a heat rating is that the plugs need to be "self-cleaned" by incineration. The deposits get burned away with higher heat. Of course you can't have it too high because there will reduce plug life and performance. Higher heat rating plugs conduct heat more efficiently to the coolant system.If your engine runs very hot due to high combustion temperatures , then you will have to take higher heat rating plugs. IK16 is hotter than IK20 means, heat accumulated at IK16 is less dissipated than at IK20.
    With IK20, probability of misfire is alittle higher as mostly our throttle is only between 1500-3000 and rarely need to reach 4000, hence, may have less heat for 100% self-cleaning and affirmative firing. For city driving, and short trips 16 would be better and also recommended by the manufacturer.


    Not sure but I think M13a engines are recommended with IK20 rather than IK16, and both should have 11 mm gap not 13 mm.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nomi700 View Post
    condition of plugs after about 40k driving.
    These have no match for Iridium plugs! :-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by zank View Post
    Not sure but I think M13a engines are recommended with IK20 rather than IK16, and both should have 11 mm gap not 13 mm.
    may be, you are right as their manual is too complicated but internationally IK16 is recommended for most M13A engines other than liana,like jimny and swift.
    I did not write 13mm gap anywhere.
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    Quote Originally Posted by dr_adnanhidayat View Post
    N finally it denies to run on cng.... .... Ll help pinpoint the problem.... N it also does some Tik tik sound from cng kit area.... Seems Some electric problem....
    i assume it does not start on cng? please elaborate a little more.
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    Quote Originally Posted by dr_adnanhidayat View Post
    ya ecu has been resetted twice i guess......... it turns on wen rpm above 2.5 ONLY ON CNG then goes off after a while wen RPM is low for a while...... and no check engine light on petrol whereever i take the rpm..... its something cng related m sure..... but where no idea......
    Quote Originally Posted by Skill View Post
    i assume it does not start on cng? please elaborate a little more.
    Ya it actually had a backfire and then engine switched off.... Started on petrol.... On cng had some spark like sound.... Then came to mechanic..... A fuse was burnt.... Also a coil was doing tik tik. Spark i mean. So changed that too.... Now On way to 3s..... To scan the Car

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    i have purchased lxi ,82k driven,car is running fine but there is a axel ply,when a take of my foot from throtel i feel jerk but while pressing clutch there is no jerk.where should i go to fix that problem and what is the estimated cost for that job?have u have expirenced that problem in ur liana?another problem tht i m facing is low pick in 2nd gear,its 06 model,is that the built in problem in liana or it can be resolved,please help expert

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    Quote Originally Posted by dr_adnanhidayat View Post
    Ya it actually had a backfire and then engine switched off.... Started on petrol.... On cng had some spark like sound.... Then came to mechanic..... A fuse was burnt.... Also a coil was doing tik tik. Spark i mean. So changed that too.... Now On way to 3s..... To scan the Car
    i told you to get it scan on petrol first.Problem might be as minor as a short connection or as major as a coil disorder.To locate the cause,you need proper scan tools.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ali_noor View Post
    i have purchased lxi ,82k driven,car is running fine but there is a axel ply,when a take of my foot from throtel i feel jerk but while pressing clutch there is no jerk.where should i go to fix that problem and what is the estimated cost for that job?have u have expirenced that problem in ur liana?another problem tht i m facing is low pick in 2nd gear,its 06 model,is that the built in problem in liana or it can be resolved,please help expert
    how could you assess the problem is with axle?
    It might be due to one of the engine mounting.Have you any clue?
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    Quote Originally Posted by ali_noor View Post
    i have purchased lxi ,82k driven,car is running fine but there is a axel ply,when a take of my foot from throtel i feel jerk but while pressing clutch there is no jerk.where should i go to fix that problem and what is the estimated cost for that job?have u have expirenced that problem in ur liana?another problem tht i m facing is low pick in 2nd gear,its 06 model,is that the built in problem in liana or it can be resolved,please help expert
    No idea about the axle play thing but the pick problem is by default in all 2007 pre models for sure acknowledged by company itself.
    Sharing is caring....

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    Quote Originally Posted by dr_adnanhidayat View Post
    Ya it actually had a backfire and then engine switched off.... Started on petrol.... On cng had some spark like sound.... Then came to mechanic..... A fuse was burnt.... Also a coil was doing tik tik. Spark i mean. So changed that too.... Now On way to 3s..... To scan the Car
    If the backfiring is just on cng,then which advancer is installed ?
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    Quote Originally Posted by dr_adnanhidayat View Post
    i serviced the cng kit and raised the rpm to almost 800-900..... now the car wont get switched off ......... but that check engine light wen raise the rpm above 2.5 or so still persists.... then it gets switched off after a while wen rpm is under 2.......... no check light on petrol ....... only on cng it turns on.... its aftermarket cng...........
    Dear its normal on CNG , when u raise the rpm to 2.5 or above engine check light will on and when down it will go off , only on CNG not on petrol(on neutural position) ,, when you are running the vehicle check light will not get on either you drive on 3k rpm or more, at least i have the same experience.

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    Quote Originally Posted by agm1pk View Post
    Dear its normal on CNG , when u raise the rpm to 2.5 or above engine check light will on and when down it will go off , only on CNG not on petrol(on neutural position) ,, when you are running the vehicle check light will not get on either you drive on 3k rpm or more, at least i have the same experience.
    any logic?
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    Adnan,coils are last step to get it on the track but some times advancer,plugs and wires,coil and coil's wiring may come into action.try step by step.
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    Quote Originally Posted by dr_adnanhidayat View Post
    N finally it denies to run on cng.... .... Ll help pinpoint the problem.... N it also does some Tik tik sound from cng kit area.... Seems Some electric problem....
    the tik tik sound comes from CNG injectors (in FF CNG), which is very much normal
    Please take care of your near and dear ones. Drive safely.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skill View Post
    Dear nauman bhai,
    what inclined you choose ik 20?Were you previously using ik 20?40k driving,why?
    i was previously using Bosch FR78X four tip. They are long lasting plugs and i changed them after approx 40k km. didn't use IK 20 previously. Read good reviews about it and went for it
    Please take care of your near and dear ones. Drive safely.
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    Quote Originally Posted by nomi700 View Post
    the tik tik sound comes from CNG injectors (in FF CNG), which is very much normal
    Nauman bhai his car is on aftermarket cng and he has got changed both coils right now.talked with me on fone.one of coil was already short.

    sent from ivio using tapatalk
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skill View Post
    Now you are contemplating a step colder by putting ik20,manual says ik16 from denso and bkr6e from ngk,electrically conductive deposits may form on the insulator (fouling) causing a loss of spark energy or the actual shorting-out of the spark current. Idling is affected, and in the long run, misfires will happen and of course loss of power but if you can take very good care of your vehicle it might be ok.
    A colder plug like IK20 might be good for continuous long runs, but not so good for short distance travels.One of the reasons why there is a heat rating is that the plugs need to be "self-cleaned" by incineration. The deposits get burned away with higher heat. Of course you can't have it too high because there will reduce plug life and performance. Higher heat rating plugs conduct heat more efficiently to the coolant system.If your engine runs very hot due to high combustion temperatures , then you will have to take higher heat rating plugs. IK16 is hotter than IK20 means, heat accumulated at IK16 is less dissipated than at IK20.
    With IK20, probability of misfire is alittle higher as mostly our throttle is only between 1500-3000 and rarely need to reach 4000, hence, may have less heat for 100% self-cleaning and affirmative firing. For city driving, and short trips 16 would be better and also recommended by the manufacturer.


    the recommended plugs for engine is 6 heat range from NGK and 20 heat range from denso. also discussed with JZ before change and he recommended me the same. have extracted the relevant portion of recommendation from service manual
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Please take care of your near and dear ones. Drive safely.
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    Quote Originally Posted by nomi700 View Post
    i was previously using Bosch FR78X four tip. They are long lasting plugs and i changed them after approx 40k km. didn't use IK 20 previously. Read good reviews about it and went for it
    I would always like to stick to ngk and replace them after ten if platinum after fifteen iridium ones after twenty. precaution is always better.

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