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Thread: Liana owners & fan club

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    bring it on...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skill View Post
    Do your car behave like this only on cng?
    yup........RPM drop and shut offs only on cng......... on petrol it never shuts..........

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    Quote Originally Posted by zank View Post
    Is your idling stable over Petrol?yup.....on petrol its ok. Which Plugs are you using? plurs r NGK ones......... the stock which 3S suggest and sell. If you have an after-market CNG, then there will be a venturi at the end of the pipe which connects the CNG kit to cumbustion chamber. But if you car has no issues of loss in pick/acceleration then that should be fine also.yup..no loss...... Which engine oil are you using? ZIC do check its level with the dip stick, it should be in between the two marks over that stick.it touches the 2nd one..the top one If all above things seems fine, try adjusting the idling screw of the CNG kit over a hot car, lower it down to the full clockwise till the engine shuts down, then turn it anti-clockwise slowly till you feel that the engine has regained its required RPMs. RPMs should be in between 800-1000 over idling and engine should be running smoothly over that. Let me know if that helps, if still not I feel its a valve related issue. If they are jammed, over petrol the car somehow manages to perform but over CNG (which has less power) it gives lower RPMs and can not maintain the engine. But dont let anyone mess with the Head and Valves untill you are pretty sure that the problem is not due to anyother thing,
    valve...thats scary......... i actually removed all the wiring and inserted bak........ since then its perfect........ the idling screw on cng kit used to raise the rpm for a while and then again after bit driving it used to get low......... but it did raise the rpm........ i guess wiring was messed up somewhere............ i think the car is ok now........ as since 4 days the RPM is stable...... normally on 8.... raises to 9 according to driving conditions....... if drive on higher rpm remains till 9...... till 8 or so for lower rpm.......... happy with it so far.......... lets c next........... but the valve thing is really scary:s

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    good to hear your problem is fixed...
    Sharing is caring....

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    Dear Adnan,your car was good after the coil change,right?your is good on petrol,right?if anything related valves is happening inside the engine,there must be more symptoms like 1,rough idle which i do not think you are facing currently 2,too much heating,again i assume not a matter relating your problem,3 too high petrol consumption that is also not mentioned in any post of you.
    So,most probably your car's problem is not mechanical,i personally feel it is electrical issue and as you already have undergone an electric repair work lately.
    You must have to visit a suzuki scanner first to get to the actual cause,some times issues are minor but because of unawareness we provide chances to ordinary mechanics to play with our cars and mess.
    ECU works with self diagnostic system which constantly monitor the circuits and their inputs.When it detects a problem,it illuminates the MIL (malfunction indication light) and informs you to address the components and find fault.Now how to find the fault,you will have to connect a scanner to its DLC port.
    BUTT some times an error occurs inside like malfunctioning of some electric component and before you reach a workshop it is corrected by itself,here ecu stores a trouble code inside its live memory(these codes+the codes) which were not cleared by a scanner after a repair job from live memory ACTS some times and make ecu think that some thing is wrong.This act makes ecu work in ''safe mode'' like our home computers when we mess with its system files.
    I hope you understand what i want to say,so first of all consult a scanner and for this as there are no scanners available for liana in abbotabad(you said) go to Nazir Autos G/8-4 islamabad, i have personally got my car's ecu checked from their scanners as a routine service, to clear previous codes and to know the actual acting codes.
    https://www.facebook.com/skillgrafik

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    there are couple of other "zubaida apa's totka to reset the ecu" BUT actual way is to connect a scanner.
    Totka no 1,disconnect -ve cable from battery and then disconnect positive as well for half an hour the reconnect +ve first and -ve later.
    Totka no 2,start the car and run some yards forward then without switching it off run it reverse for few yards and switch off, do this three times intermittently so to make ecu think multiple successive tours and shut offs.
    https://www.facebook.com/skillgrafik

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skill View Post
    there are couple of other "zubaida apa's totka to reset the ecu" BUT actual way is to connect a scanner.
    Totka no 1,disconnect -ve cable from battery and then disconnect positive as well for half an hour the reconnect +ve first and -ve later.
    Totka no 2,start the car and run some yards forward then without switching it off run it reverse for few yards and switch off, do this three times intermittently so to make ecu think multiple successive tours and shut offs.
    @amir appa sorry bhai ke totkay
    This is good info....
    specially the second one
    Sharing is caring....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skill View Post
    Dear Adnan,your car was good after the coil change,right?your is good on petrol,right?if anything related valves is happening inside the engine,there must be more symptoms like 1,rough idle which i do not think you are facing currently 2,too much heating,again i assume not a matter relating your problem,3 too high petrol consumption that is also not mentioned in any post of you.
    So,most probably your car's problem is not mechanical,i personally feel it is electrical issue and as you already have undergone an electric repair work lately.
    You must have to visit a suzuki scanner first to get to the actual cause,some times issues are minor but because of unawareness we provide chances to ordinary mechanics to play with our cars and mess.
    ECU works with self diagnostic system which constantly monitor the circuits and their inputs.When it detects a problem,it illuminates the MIL (malfunction indication light) and informs you to address the components and find fault.Now how to find the fault,you will have to connect a scanner to its DLC port.
    BUTT some times an error occurs inside like malfunctioning of some electric component and before you reach a workshop it is corrected by itself,here ecu stores a trouble code inside its live memory(these codes+the codes) which were not cleared by a scanner after a repair job from live memory ACTS some times and make ecu think that some thing is wrong.This act makes ecu work in ''safe mode'' like our home computers when we mess with its system files.
    I hope you understand what i want to say,so first of all consult a scanner and for this as there are no scanners available for liana in abbotabad(you said) go to Nazir Autos G/8-4 islamabad, i have personally got my car's ecu checked from their scanners as a routine service, to clear previous codes and to know the actual acting codes.
    thanx skill bro............ its running fyn now...... so i guess its ok now........ ya electrical prob it must b....... and scanner is a must....... thinking to get one of my own.......... any available??????

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    Quote Originally Posted by iamadee View Post
    good to hear your problem is fixed...
    thanx bro....... LFC is a heaven........lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skill View Post
    there are couple of other "zubaida apa's totka to reset the ecu" BUT actual way is to connect a scanner.
    Totka no 1,disconnect -ve cable from battery and then disconnect positive as well for half an hour the reconnect +ve first and -ve later.
    Totka no 2,start the car and run some yards forward then without switching it off run it reverse for few yards and switch off, do this three times intermittently so to make ecu think multiple successive tours and shut offs.
    soon ll do these totkas................lol......... thanx skill bro.........

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    after how much kms liana needs to be head job done?mine is 85k driven,and why liana dont have adjustable tapets

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    Quote Originally Posted by ali_noor View Post
    after how much kms liana needs to be head job done?mine is 85k driven,and why liana dont have adjustable tapets
    Not the matter of just liana,milage,bad fuel and oil,driving habits, incorrect tunings,wrong timing adjustments, determin such repairs.

    sent from ivio using tapatalk
    https://www.facebook.com/skillgrafik

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    I am really scared of this fixed taped thingy. I think every Liana will have to got through it .........

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    Quote Originally Posted by mahmad786 View Post
    I am really scared of this fixed taped thingy. I think every Liana will have to got through it .........
    Why scared?
    Every car has to face this sometime somehow.
    By the way that is not a very expensive job to do as well.

    Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk 2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skill View Post
    Not the matter of just liana,milage,bad fuel and oil,driving habits, incorrect tunings,wrong timing adjustments, determin such repairs.

    sent from ivio using tapatalk
    +1
    And LIANA does have self adjustable tappets.

    Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk 2

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    Dear all,

    Would be wonderful if anyone of you have any experience regarding the following.

    I have a 06' RXi, done around 63,000 finally the cv joints (outer) have started giving the warning signals (sound on turnings).
    I have check with the Suzuki I-9, according to them the original will cost me JUST Rs. 95,000 and other option is available for Rs. 12,000 (this includes the cost of the both the cv joints, labour and some cost related to adjusting the inner ones, they have not checked the car so far but according to them when the outer are replace the inner should also be 'adjusted'...dont know what do they mean by that). But the problem is that they are not sure about the brand of the cv joints...according to them the 'company' provides us and we dont know what brand is that....how interesting is that ) But they are giving guarantee for three long months

    On the other hand I am thinking of getting HDK (Japanese),which are for Rs. 7,400 in Islamabad...and take those to Suzuki and pay them the labour + other costs...wound end up paying again Rs. 12,000. But Suzuki will obviously give no guarantee for that...

    What do you all suggest...I am more for the second option, at least I will know what part i am putting in.
    "Never drive faster than your Guardian Angel can fly."

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    Just to keep my friends updated here:
    Alhamdo'lillah I have been blessed again with a child. This time a baby boy :-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by zank View Post
    Just to keep my friends updated here:
    Alhamdo'lillah I have been blessed again with a child. This time a baby boy :-)
    congrats buddy
    Please take care of your near and dear ones. Drive safely.
    https://www.facebook.com/naumansheikhpictography

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    Quote Originally Posted by TM View Post
    Dear all,

    Would be wonderful if anyone of you have any experience regarding the following.

    I have a 06' RXi, done around 63,000 finally the cv joints (outer) have started giving the warning signals (sound on turnings).
    I have check with the Suzuki I-9, according to them the original will cost me JUST Rs. 95,000 and other option is available for Rs. 12,000 (this includes the cost of the both the cv joints, labour and some cost related to adjusting the inner ones, they have not checked the car so far but according to them when the outer are replace the inner should also be 'adjusted'...dont know what do they mean by that). But the problem is that they are not sure about the brand of the cv joints...according to them the 'company' provides us and we dont know what brand is that....how interesting is that ) But they are giving guarantee for three long months

    On the other hand I am thinking of getting HDK (Japanese),which are for Rs. 7,400 in Islamabad...and take those to Suzuki and pay them the labour + other costs...wound end up paying again Rs. 12,000. But Suzuki will obviously give no guarantee for that...

    What do you all suggest...I am more for the second option, at least I will know what part i am putting in.
    I got the CV joints changed of my liana. i would suggest for NKN (japnese) brand available here around 6500.

    Amir Bhai (skill) will also guide you better as he got it changed too.
    Please take care of your near and dear ones. Drive safely.
    https://www.facebook.com/naumansheikhpictography

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    Quote Originally Posted by zank View Post
    Just to keep my friends updated here:
    Alhamdo'lillah I have been blessed again with a child. This time a baby boy :-)
    gr8 to hear bro....... congratzzzzzz........

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    Quote Originally Posted by tmkhan2050 View Post
    Assalam-O-Alakum to all LFC members and happy Eid Mubarak,

    I am facing some issues in my beloved Liana so need some expert advice from Skill and Imadee bros who are really very helping personalities which is surely a Sadika-e-Jariya.

    1. First issue is whenever i switch it to CNG idle RPM goes down to 450-500 which is very low and engine switches off any time so i have to switch back to Petrol and idle comes to 700-750 which is quite normal. Is there any sensor needs cleaning or something, i guess. i have some technical background so i hope that i can easily clean it if i get some guidance and if the sensor is easily accessible for maintenance without any major dismantling. I also have the technical and maintenance manual of liana with J23 engine of any US model for reference.

    2. Second issue is that when engine was working fine on CNG, its pick was really bad on CNG and even gets worse with AC ON. I have tuned it twice from two renowned shops in Karachi but no improvement. While on petrol its pick is awesome.

    Thanks in Anticipation & Wassalam
    my problem gone by the grace of ALLAH.......... 1st changed advancer+emulator....... then TB+sensor servicing(sensors on TB only).......and in the end just pulled all the wiring to the sensors etc and inserted back........... n 1 more thing.... changed the coil position i.e., lt to rt and rt to lt........lol..... has nothing to do i know but i did it ........lol

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