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bring it on...
The best way to test it is to put it in a bowl of boiling water. At my mechanic shop, we used a small 'taghari' with the welding flame beneath it. The valve should open before the water starts to boil. When the valve will open, you can observe bubbles in water.
It will be very easy if you do this test in your kitchen :-)
Yes, putting it in place is a hectic job as you have to dessemble the whole flange for this at the backside. But engine mount is not required to be disturbed.
Logic behind filling the radiator ,car's front face up, to give air bit of room out while process of pouring the water inside . @abid110 , your car's over flow pipe is too short ,it should have been at least 1 1/2 feet long. There is a hole just underneath the plastic reservoir to pass this pipe downwards .Because of short of length ,it is pouring overflown water on the harnesses of radiator fan and head beams, you have covered them with a shopper bag and taped, thus causing the electric component disorders .It might has kept disconnecting your radiator fan due to short circuit . Once fan is off when needed ,may cause your pocket a big dent ,on the other hand short circuit may burst into fire . First correct your wiring and remove shopper bags .
Secondly ,your car's radiator along with reservoir are too much gunky inside ,Those needs a proper wash or replacement .And this should be done urgently .
We do not pour water/coolant with pressure. On normal stance ,places away from lower radiator tank like engine side end of the hose pipe may not be fully submerged and may cause the air to stay inside.
Doesn't matter if the weather is hot or cold, this is a mandatory item for effective engine working. Getting T-Stat bypassed will give undesirable effects as engine blocks will have cooled water continuously rotated from the radiator. Car might do missing as it will not achieve optimum desired temperature at all, and in longer times the engine will have more than regular wear and tear internally. Everything inside the engine (oil and alloys) are made to work over a desired temperature.
The T-Stat Valve starts to open over temperature 80-84C. And is fully open in between temperatures 95-97C.
This car needs to run at around 91C as the desired optimum temperature. This 87C figure, I am not sure myself, but this is what I remember was written over the valve as far as I remember. May be they write some aggregate figure because this is not a digital gadget and temperature really spikes up in these places and conditions within seconds.
A good synthetic oil is also made to do the best viscosity vs lubrication formulation at these temperatures. That is why they last long vs the minerals.
One more thing that is very important is that, you need to make sure that there is no air trapped in between the coolent supply, becuase the air gets trapped into the engine blocks and the temperature where there is air really shoots up very high as compared to where the coolent is touching the blocks. And this is really bad for the alloy at that point of contact and it can deform quickly.
The cars having deformed engiine blocks are the same cases, in which they blame the car specs that they get over-heated.
Death is not the greatest loss in life. The greatest loss is what dies inside us while we live.