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Thread: Liana owners & fan club

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    bring it on...

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    Quote Originally Posted by gullahmad View Post
    Bro main nay tu thermostate nami balaa say jan he chura lee hai. Aur bahut skoon main rehta hoo.
    Brother don't totally get rid of thermostat. If your engine runs too cold due to direct fan then this is not good for engine in the long term because engine oil circulation through tight spaces becomes sluggish due to low operational temperatures of your engine. This gets serious when temperature is touching/crossing the zero mark in winters. Also it will negatively affect your overall mileage since too cold engine means thick engine oil which means lower overall mileage, lower pick, lower torque at low rpms. Thermostats are designed to keep the engine at optimum operational temperatures. Either too hot (no fan or low/bad coolant) or too cold (direct fan), both are bad.

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    Quote Originally Posted by enthusiastic.learner View Post
    Brother don't totally get rid of thermostat. If your engine runs too cold due to direct fan then this is not good for engine in the long term because engine oil circulation through tight spaces becomes sluggish due to low operational temperatures of your engine. This gets serious when temperature is touching/crossing the zero mark in winters. Also it will negatively affect your overall mileage since too cold engine means thick engine oil which means lower overall mileage, lower pick, lower torque at low rpms. Thermostats are designed to keep the engine at optimum operational temperatures. Either too hot (no fan or low/bad coolant) or too cold (direct fan), both are bad.
    I have heard a dangerous fact that the slugde can scratch cylinder bores

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    today i went to tuning of my car. it was an ex-suzuki person and had training in Japan too (pictures were framed in his shop). he scanned my car, and did throttle service+plug gap/cleaning+coils cleaning&taping+air intake cleaning+emulator setting. the scan code was P0135 and no other code, in a nut shell he said that your car is Mashallah in best of engine health, and for a zero meter car experience just change its coils and the car will be as new as a showroom zero meter. as per his detailed inspection, all sensors are properly functioning, electronics are all good, absolutely no mechanical work needed in engine. but he recommended me Total engine oil 20/50 as engine is old now. endorsed the idea of direct fan and no t-stat.

    i have seen inside of my engine thrice (each time the gasket was gone). i never saw traces of abnormal sludge, debris,, infact just a proper oiled parts. i believe its just because i have always strived to use genuine original oils from reputed vendors. a 'jaali' fake oil really ruins an engine

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    Quote Originally Posted by saboor73 View Post
    I have heard a dangerous fact that the slugde can scratch cylinder bores
    Yes it can but the chances of that happening are slim if one keeps changing the oil + filter timely without over-running. There are other factors contributing to this as well for example, if your engine is running super lean and it's summer then you are inviting ring trouble because running extra lean dangerously raises the cylinder temperature and there are chances of pre-ignition. When this happens for long enough, say bye bye to your rings and cylinders. Valve damage / valves ceasing in the guides is also possible at this point.

    Experts here would agree with me when I say that it's better to change the oil BEFORE touching the maximum mileage limit claimed by the oil manufacturer. E.g., if the maximum mileage of a certain oil is claimed to be 5000 Km by its manufacturer, i'd change that every 3500 Km, or 4000 Km at max. Better safe than sorry.

    Btw, I have been recommended by a lot of "ustaads" by now to switch the current 5W40 of my Liana RXI with 20W50 for better mileage & engine protection. And then people say that Liana is a very troublesome car. These morons do not even know that "spark plug heat rating kis chirya ka naam hai".

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    Quote Originally Posted by enthusiastic.learner View Post
    Yes it can but the chances of that happening are slim if one keeps changing the oil + filter timely without over-running. Experts here would agree with me when I say that it's better to change the oil BEFORE touching the maximum mileage limit claimed by the oil manufacturer. E.g., if the maximum mileage of a certain oil is claimed to be 5000 Km by its manufacturer, i'd change that every 3500 Km, or 4000 Km at max. Better safe than sorry.
    What about 3000km wala oil... Change it at 1500km?

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    Quote Originally Posted by enthusiastic.learner View Post
    Yes it can but the chances of that happening are slim if one keeps changing the oil + filter timely without over-running. Experts here would agree with me when I say that it's better to change the oil BEFORE touching the maximum mileage limit claimed by the oil manufacturer. E.g., if the maximum mileage of a certain oil is claimed to be 5000 Km by its manufacturer, i'd change that every 3500 Km, or 4000 Km at max. Better safe than sorry.
    Quote Originally Posted by ali15144 View Post
    What about 3000km wala oil... Change it at 1500km?
    Changing engine oil too early is actually harm for your engine as engine oil deposit anti wear additive after finishing zddp (cleaning additive)

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    Quote Originally Posted by abid110 View Post
    today i went to tuning of my car. it was an ex-suzuki person and had training in Japan too (pictures were framed in his shop). he scanned my car, and did throttle service+plug gap/cleaning+coils cleaning&taping+air intake cleaning+emulator setting. the scan code was P0135 and no other code, in a nut shell he said that your car is Mashallah in best of engine health, and for a zero meter car experience just change its coils and the car will be as new as a showroom zero meter. as per his detailed inspection, all sensors are properly functioning, electronics are all good, absolutely no mechanical work needed in engine. but he recommended me Total engine oil 20/50 as engine is old now. endorsed the idea of direct fan and no t-stat.

    i have seen inside of my engine thrice (each time the gasket was gone). i never saw traces of abnormal sludge, debris,, infact just a proper oiled parts. i believe its just because i have always strived to use genuine original oils from reputed vendors. a 'jaali' fake oil really ruins an engine
    He might have Photoshoped those picture non OEM gasket no t.valve and healthy engine I call a bs on that

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    Quote Originally Posted by abid110 View Post
    today i went to tuning of my car. it was an ex-suzuki person and had training in Japan too (pictures were framed in his shop). he scanned my car, and did throttle service+plug gap/cleaning+coils cleaning&taping+air intake cleaning+emulator setting. the scan code was P0135 and no other code, in a nut shell he said that your car is Mashallah in best of engine health, and for a zero meter car experience just change its coils and the car will be as new as a showroom zero meter. as per his detailed inspection, all sensors are properly functioning, electronics are all good, absolutely no mechanical work needed in engine. but he recommended me Total engine oil 20/50 as engine is old now. endorsed the idea of direct fan and no t-stat.

    i have seen inside of my engine thrice (each time the gasket was gone). i never saw traces of abnormal sludge, debris,, infact just a proper oiled parts. i believe its just because i have always strived to use genuine original oils from reputed vendors. a 'jaali' fake oil really ruins an engine
    Isn't 20W50 a lot thicker than factory specs? Manual says 5W30, and in case of older engines I would still not go beyond 5W40 or maximum 5W50. Wait for advice from senior experts here though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by enthusiastic.learner View Post
    Isn't 20W50 a lot thicker than factory specs? Manual says 5W30, and in case of older engines I would still not go beyond 5W40 or maximum 5W50. Wait for advice from senior experts here though.
    No t.valve 20w-50 = glue in engine

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    Quote Originally Posted by saboor73 View Post
    Changing engine oil too early is actually harm for your engine as engine oil deposit anti wear additive after finishing zddp (cleaning additive)
    In Pakistan we have a unique problem brother. NO DEALERSHIP is trustworthy! I have seen fake caltex and shell engine oils being sold at caltex and shell petrol pumps! I simply do not trust any oil in Pakistani market and thereby I would strongly recommend changing oil within at least 500-1000 Km margin from the maximum limit. Unless, of course you can somehow guarantee that the stuff you are putting in your car is really original.

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    Quote Originally Posted by enthusiastic.learner View Post
    Isn't 20W50 a lot thicker than factory specs? Manual says 5W30, and in case of older engines I would still not go beyond 5W40 or maximum 5W50. Wait for advice from senior experts here though.
    bro, temperatures here in karachi are lot different than in Lhr and Isb. so, we see use of 20/50 alot

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    Quote Originally Posted by saboor73 View Post
    He might have Photoshoped those picture non OEM gasket no t.valve and healthy engine I call a bs on that
    Non OEM gaskets are used in almost all cases now. once the head is resurfaced due to any reason, then it is highly recommended to go for a thicker one

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    Quote Originally Posted by abid110 View Post
    bro, temperatures here in karachi are lot different than in Lhr and Isb. so, we see use of 20/50 alot
    Brother the difference that I am pointing towards is the difference between 5W and 20W. W stands for winter viscosity rating. 5W50 can stay liquid at much lower temperatures than 20W50 and will ensure proper cold starts. 20W50 on the other hand will make it hard to start a cold car and the engine will also run heavily until it has reached a higher temperature. Also, by that time, thick goo-like 20W50 will not be able to lubricate tight clearances in the engine that would otherwise be properly lubricated by a much thinner 5W50 at that temperature which means, damage to the engine. Oil pump will also have to work much harder at starting temperatures than its normal operation. The higher part of viscosity in both these oils i.e., 50, is the same which means they will both be of same viscosity at higher temperatures and both will lubricate the engine equally good at high temperatures with same thickness / viscosity. So practically speaking there is everything to gain and nothing to lose.

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    @Xulfiqar, bro have you ever played around with the code extraction from ECU and making changes at assembly level? I am thinking of disabling my car's immobilizer because my immobilizer antenna seems to have gotten weak and sometimes it doesn't recognize its own original key. I don't want to pay big bucks to Suzuki 3S for merely a bunch of new immobilizer keys.

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    Quote Originally Posted by abid110 View Post
    Non OEM gaskets are used in almost all cases now. once the head is resurfaced due to any reason, then it is highly recommended to go for a thicker one
    Its all becoz of over idiot mechanics doing stupidity all the time these idiot know that the head bolts yelid (a mechanic admitted it in front of me) and try to compensate it by thicker gasket I being through Australian forum of Jimmy/vitara etc and over there they try to double OEM gasket to tackle problems like this (faced head)

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    Quote Originally Posted by enthusiastic.learner View Post
    @Xulfiqar, bro have you ever played around with the code extraction from ECU and making changes at assembly level? I am thinking of disabling my car's immobilizer because my immobilizer antenna seems to have gotten weak and sometimes it doesn't recognize its own original key. I don't want to pay big bucks to Suzuki 3S for merely a bunch of new immobilizer keys.
    Pretty sure no one would tell you how to bypass a immobilizer why not just fix the coded key in engine bay very near to immobilizer antenna just a idea

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    Quote Originally Posted by saboor73 View Post
    Pretty sure no one would tell you how to bypass a immobilizer why not just fix the coded key in engine bay very near to immobilizer antenna just a idea
    Tried that, doesn't work unfortunately. The antenna has become quite weak. And yes you are right. People could use this information negatively in a public forum. It was unwise of me to ask it here like this, but I would still want to make changes to my vehicle as per my requirements. @Xulfiqar: Bro can you PM me if you have had any experiences in this? This will save me a lot of work that I would otherwise have to do if I start from scratch.

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    Quote Originally Posted by enthusiastic.learner View Post
    Btw, I have another pending problem that needs to be resolved. My car's temperature gauge doesn't work. The radiator fan is also set to direct although the 3 radiator relays are not bypassed. I have a feeling that somewhere there is an unplugged cable and shorting of thermostat wiring to make the fan direct. But where? I am unable to locate the temperature sensor and the thermostat assembly as even in the service manual, the position has been vaguely mentioned in the form of a short sketch diagram that is not clear by any means. Tested the dashboard meter manually though and the meter itself seems to be working fine.
    Its called the ECT. Please see below (8):

    liana Owners & fan club -1639293
    Death is not the greatest loss in life. The greatest loss is what dies inside us while we live.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Proverbial_Slang View Post
    Its called the ECT. Please see below (8):

    liana Owners & fan club -1639293
    Thanks bro. Highly appreciated! :-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by enthusiastic.learner View Post
    @Xulfiqar, bro have you ever played around with the code extraction from ECU and making changes at assembly level? I am thinking of disabling my car's immobilizer because my immobilizer antenna seems to have gotten weak and sometimes it doesn't recognize its own original key. I don't want to pay big bucks to Suzuki 3S for merely a bunch of new immobilizer keys.
    Try cleaning the contacts of your remote and install new batteries after checking with multimeter. There are tons of Chinese useless batteries out there. Happened to me in the past.
    Death is not the greatest loss in life. The greatest loss is what dies inside us while we live.

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