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Thread: Liana owners & fan club

  1. #1
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    bring it on...

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    Quote Originally Posted by enthusiastic.learner View Post
    Thanks bro. That tip about a u-shaped clip in the vacuum valve is interesting. I will definitely try this. Btw, is around 30 degrees incline enough for all air to escape? I also revved up the engine during this process at times which pumped out huge bubbles of air but after a while it reduced to no bubbles. I kept squeezing the radiator hoses, heater hoses and the one going to the thermostat housing periodically. I've read that a total of 6.5 litres coolant is required to fill the car up properly in case of Liana m13a. In my case, it has only taken to around 5.7 - 5.8 litres.

    By the way, some websites say that only red coolant should be used but in service manual it says that any ethylene glycol based coolant will work. I've put in ZIC Super green coloured one. What difference does it make?
    red coolants are usually long life coolants (organic acid additive) - all retail coolants are ethylene glycol based. You chose the green one which is the oldschool inorganic acid technology silicated coolant. Its also OK to use but has a service life of a year only. It also doesnt have good electrolysis protection. The good thing about them is that they work immediately by coating the engine.

    The OAT type coolant are longer life and work slower to protect the engine but once in they are excellent in protection and have excellent electrolysis protection.

    If I owned your car then I would have used the caltex orange coolant
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

  3. #9862
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    you will need to use a scan tool to see what shut the engine down. shut down after warming up usually is a bad crank position sensor.
    Is there any scan tool that would do the job on Liana Rxi 2006? Although its "OBD2 compliant", i've noticed that most obd2 scanners do not support it. On one Pakwheels thread I read someone saying that OBD Mate works fine in case of Liana. Your thoughts? I want to stay as far away from 3S as possible for obvious reasons.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    red coolants are usually long life coolants (organic acid additive) - all retail coolants are ethylene glycol based. You chose the green one which is the oldschool inorganic acid technology silicated coolant. Its also OK to use but has a service life of a year only. It also doesnt have good electrolysis protection. The good thing about them is that they work immediately by coating the engine.

    The OAT type coolant are longer life and work slower to protect the engine but once in they are excellent in protection and have excellent electrolysis protection.

    If I owned your car then I would have used the caltex orange coolant
    That shouldn't matter then in my case because unlike others, I won't wait for 10 years before changing it. I will keep changing it every 8-10k kilometers and the next time I change, i'll do a thorough water flush before replacing with caltex orange. Thanks for the advice. I didn't find Caltex orange at Filter House as they were of the opinion that its "off-season" for coolants and they only had two 4-litre cans apparently waiting for me. New out of old stock.

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    Where is the main relay of liana is placed I mean in dashboard or in bonnet fuse box ?
    In bonnet there r various relays but not mention there for which component ! Only a, b, c, d is written !

  6. #9865
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    Quote Originally Posted by gullahmad View Post
    Where is the main relay of liana is placed I mean in dashboard or in bonnet fuse box ?
    In bonnet there r various relays but not mention there for which component ! Only a, b, c, d is written !
    Main relay is in the big fuse box in your engine bay (the long black fuse box). It should be at bottom right if you are inspecting the fuse box while standing in front of the car under the fuel pump relay which is at top right.

  7. #9866
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    Location of maf sensor in liana ? If not then which sensors compensate its function ?

  8. #9867
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    Quote Originally Posted by enthusiastic.learner View Post
    Main relay is in the big fuse box in your engine bay (the long black fuse box). It should be at bottom right if you are inspecting the fuse box while standing in front of the car under the fuel pump relay which is at top right.
    Plz tell location I disconnect bottom right but ignition switch is still turn on the dash lights so main relay should be the one on pulling of that all functions become off specially ignition switch function !

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    Quote Originally Posted by gullahmad View Post
    Location of maf sensor in liana ? If not then which sensors compensate its function ?
    There is no maf sensor on m13a instead it relys on map sensor

  10. #9869
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    Quote Originally Posted by Proverbial_Slang View Post
    Yes. I have used the following and found it to be effective. By effective, I mean as effective as a fuel additive can be. If your injectors are too clogged or if there is another major issue with the fuel system, you won't see any improvement.

    liana Owners & fan club -1656573
    Bro what is the price?

  11. #9870
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    Quote Originally Posted by gullahmad View Post
    Plz tell location I disconnect bottom right but ignition switch is still turn on the dash lights so main relay should be the one on pulling of that all functions become off specially ignition switch function !
    For that you will have to pull the dashboard fuse. Refer to the service manual. Everything is given there in detail regarding this.

  12. #9871
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    Quote Originally Posted by saboor73 View Post
    There is no maf sensor on m13a instead it relys on map sensor
    Bro if I am not wrong u meant to say that m15, m16 and m18 a have maf sensor ?

  13. #9872
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    Quote Originally Posted by gullahmad View Post
    Bro if I am not wrong u meant to say that m15, m16 and m18 a have maf sensor ?
    Nope none of m series engine have maf all rely on map

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    Quote Originally Posted by enthusiastic.learner View Post
    One thing that I didn't understand though is why would the engine sputter and just die when the temperature gauge needle had barely crossed the middle temperature range? I get a check engine light as well when the engine dies. The CEL turns off though when I restart the car after a minute. Could this be due to misfiring? Could there be any other issue besides air in the system that was previously masked by the removed thermostat and car running cold all the time, e.g., bad/weak coils? I have had experience before in one of my bikes where one of the coils was bad and it only misbehaved once the bike had heated up and then it would start doing missing and eventually stall.
    You are seriously Underestimating the stupidity of temperature guages of Japanese car Temperature neddle will stick in middle position from 80C to 105C (coolant temperature) slight above middle means near 110C which is danger spot

  15. #9874
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    Quote Originally Posted by Proverbial_Slang View Post
    Yes. I have used the following and found it to be effective. By effective, I mean as effective as a fuel additive can be. If your injectors are too clogged or if there is another major issue with the fuel system, you won't see any improvement.

    liana Owners & fan club -1656573
    not to burst your bubble but this is the worst of the worst when it comes to such products.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

  16. #9875
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    not to burst your bubble but this is the worst of the worst when it comes to such products.
    So which injector cleaner u think is good ?

  17. #9876
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    Problem solved!!! This little bugger turned out to be the reason why my car was stalling as soon as the temperature needle touched mid range. This is the CKP (Crank Position) sensor and is located underneath the thermostat housing.
    liana Owners & fan club -1656989
    liana Owners & fan club -1656990

    Here is what I did.
    1: Removed air filter and all the linked duct assembly out of the way
    2: Took a 12mm socket and loosened the two bolts on the alternator.
    3: Once loose, removed the alternator belt and pushed the all the way to the front to access the 10mm bolt that was holding the CKP sensor.
    4: Removed the sensor with a 10mm L socket and installed a brand new one (Mitsubishi)
    5: Air blasted the connector before re-installing firmly onto the new sensor.
    6: Moved the alternator back and slid the belt back on it and then tightened the bolts back while keeping the alternator pushed to the front with a spar axle rod to keep belt tension.

    All done! Car has been running for the last one hour at idle and no stalling!! The engine has become completely soundless now that the thermostat is in place along with a good coolant with all the air removed from radiator. I took the opportunity to wipe clean the engine bay with a micro-fibre cloth dipped in kerosene oil.

  18. #9877
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    [QUOTE=enthusiastic.learner;5007466]Problem solved!!! This little bugger turned out to be the reason why my car was stalling as soon as the temperature needle touched mid range. This is the CKP (Crank Position) sensor and is located underneath the thermostat housing.



    HOW did u find that ckp sensor is faulty

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    [QUOTE=azyy;5007480]
    Quote Originally Posted by enthusiastic.learner View Post
    Problem solved!!! This little bugger turned out to be the reason why my car was stalling as soon as the temperature needle touched mid range. This is the CKP (Crank Position) sensor and is located underneath the thermostat housing.



    HOW did u find that ckp sensor is faulty
    The resistance between the second and third pin of the CKP sensor should be very high at all temperature ranges. In my bad sensor case, it was 13 Mega ohms which was quite high but as I would heat the sensor, the resistance would suddenly crash down to zero indicating that power pin just got shorted to the signal pin and at this moment, car's computer will totally go blind, hence the crazy misfiring before stalling. With new sensor the engine is running as smooth as silk Alhamdulillah.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gullahmad View Post
    So which injector cleaner u think is good ?
    Nasa carb cleaner Here is how you can clean your fuel injectors (I did mine the same way). Get a 12 volt battery or a 12 volt power supply. Take two wires and attach two small alligator clamps to both of them, putting them on each pin of the fuel injector. DO NOT CONNECT THESE FUEL INJECTOR WIRES DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY OR YOU WILL BURN THE SOLENOID INSIDE THE FUEL INJECTOR AND YOUR FUEL INJECTOR WILL BE DESTROYED! Now you take NASA carb cleaner and wrap a rubber balloon around the tip of its pipe, making it thick enough so that it can be stuck snugly inside the intake hole of fuel injector to be cleaned. Once it is inserted into the fuel injector snugly, connect one of the fuel injector wires to one terminal of the battery and then press and hold the carb cleaner spray. Now take the second fuel injector wire and TAP it on the other terminal of the battery for just split seconds as in, touch and pull away. Touch and pull away. Make sure your connection to the battery is for no longer than a few milliseconds in a go or you will risk burning your solenoid. Do it for 10-20 times for each fuel injector and small spurts of carb cleaner will flush across it taking all the dirt with them.

    DISCLAIMER: Do not blame me if you burn your fuel injector out by prolonged connection to the battery. The solenoids inside fuel injectors are not designed to stay connected across a 12 volt battery for prolonged duration. Just touch and pull away simulates the exact same scenario as your ECU does when they are installed in the car.

  21. #9880
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    Quote Originally Posted by gullahmad View Post
    So which injector cleaner u think is good ?
    Best way is to get it cleaned with alterasonic rays

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