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Thread: Repetitive CV joint tear of Suzuki Mehran.

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    Question Repetitive CV joint tear of Suzuki car.

    Dear brothers and sisters, I replaced both of my outer CV joints on my Suzuki car twice with original Japanese HDK CV joints and both the times the boots tore in after about two months of operation. I am very worried as I have spent Rs. 11000 just on my two pairs of CV joints. Both the boots failing on two occasions after such a short period of use is quite alarming. Please tell me why is this happening. I won't go for a third replacement until you brothers and sisters help me with a good piece of advice. @Xulfiqar please help. I am very worried. Thank you all.

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    Oh now i think that bad axle alignment with the wheel causes my car CV joints + boots to go bad after 4-5k km. and im sick of it now as it breaks lower engine flatbed mount even after 3k km after replacing them with new. and car start bubbling extremely at speed of 50km/h.

    and today i noticed that engine was running on only 2 mountings and axle support with worn out boot.
    well this is a small engine if i compare it with toyota 2c engine but still it breaks that too often now, as the same mountings being used, or maybe its due to heavy auto trans but the engine is quite small suzuki cultus 3cyl but badly fitted in charade g11.
    bro xulfiqar what do you say? im fed up with spending only on this issue as since day 1 i brought it. else ill upload clear pics of bad fittings. ap ki aaiin nawazish ho gi zulfiqar bhai.
    .....

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    Quote Originally Posted by overspeed111 View Post
    Oh now i think that bad axle alignment with the wheel causes my car CV joints + boots to go bad after 4-5k km. and im sick of it now as it breaks lower engine flatbed mount even after 3k km after replacing them with new. and car start bubbling extremely at speed of 50km/h.

    and today i noticed that engine was running on only 2 mountings and axle support with worn out boot.
    well this is a small engine if i compare it with toyota 2c engine but still it breaks that too often now, as the same mountings being used, or maybe its due to heavy auto trans but the engine is quite small suzuki cultus 3cyl but badly fitted in charade g11.
    bro xulfiqar what do you say? im fed up with spending only on this issue as since day 1 i brought it. else ill upload clear pics of bad fittings. ap ki aaiin nawazish ho gi zulfiqar bhai.
    this is one of the pains in engine swap.

    in correct design the cv joints and their shafts sit dead-on perfectly straight when the car is at resting position. The engine mounting should also be designed to rotate and hold the engine in the axis of axle rotation, a lot of thought and measurement go into this before just cutting up sheetmetal to make engine mounting bracket.

    The wear will be aggravated by sloppy engine fit.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by wasim625 View Post
    Spacer? Can u elaborate that or show a pic of what u removed?
    its a simple block of aluminum... you take out the shock absorber. you put the spacer on the shock absorber and then fit the shock absorber back.

    the spacer comes between the shock absorber and its mounting point on the car chassis. so it raises the car
    the problem is not our govt... its the people..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    this is one of the pains in engine swap.

    in correct design the cv joints and their shafts sit dead-on perfectly straight when the car is at resting position. The engine mounting should also be designed to rotate and hold the engine in the axis of axle rotation, a lot of thought and measurement go into this before just cutting up sheetmetal to make engine mounting bracket.

    The wear will be aggravated by sloppy engine fit.
    very true and this is the main cause that cost of engine swap more than double and maybe acceptable to the owners who wand to customize their cars for speed but surely not in the terms of basic useability like me i like to use car as long as it goes ( driving like a granny )
    sir today i did a diy and opened lower engine mount and to my surprise it was not broken but mis aligned so the engine is, so an idea clicks into my mind so i brought steel washers and placed them in between rubber mount and misaligned bracket and tightened the nut so it will raise the engine which was lower, and approximately aligned axle and wheel.
    then tested it by driving so the excessive sound from cv joints almost gone and felt power gain (pick rises like stop and go)

    tomorrow ill take it to mechanic for axle boot replacement as boots are torn by running misaligned, and i cant do it as it is a very tough job which grease do you recommend and easily available here.
    .....

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    Good job on the washer/spacer solution.

    buy genuine CV joint grease - they come in little packets with new CV joints, OTOH you can buy genuine CVJ grease from toyota or Honda too, they sell it in little toothpaste tubes as genuine parts. If you are completely unable to locate them then find liquimoly LM47 and measure out exactly 90 grams per axle.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Please note that this sort of joint arrangement does NOT take the black axle grease as the outer joint. This one takes a very soft bearing grease, use wheel bearing grease in there. But do not overload it.
    how can we check if its overloaded or not sorry for being naive.
    as i remember you said that exactly 90 gram required for outer C.V joint.
    give people an inch and they think they are ruler...

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    since we are discussing about cv joints here I want to know why repaired cv joint doesn't last

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    Quote Originally Posted by saboor73 View Post
    since we are discussing about cv joints here I want to know why repaired cv joint doesn't last
    the lathe shops use plain electric weld to fill the detents and then slap it together with sloppy and cheap grease.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    the lathe shops use plain electric weld to fill the detents and then slap it together with sloppy and cheap grease.
    so what the proper method??

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