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Thread: Help regarding Honda Accord 87

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    Default Help regarding Honda Accord 87

    Dear All,

    I have recently purchased a 87 accord (Mint condition 7/10) and i am bit confused about few things.


    1. how to figure out if the car is 1.6 or 1.8 liter?? cause there is a bilal gunj's memo slip on the back of the registration book which shows an engine block of A18A was purchased. Dude who sold me the car said its 1.6 i-vtec :-/
    My mechanic says it COULD be 1.8... and on the book its mention 1299CC lol

    2. whenever i shift to a high or low gear there is a weird noise (engine knocking, rattling sound, etc), and this comes whenever i am on petrol. i even mixed hi-octane with the fuel but still same frustrated sound is coming wen engine gets warm. And this sound is only for few seconds...specially it comes wen my foot gets heavy on the pedal

    (i also changed the timing belt..i have a feeling that timing belt isnt adjusted properly thats y its knock knociking)


    3. And from where can i get a new or used WATER JACKET for this model.. (Kindly dont say bilal gunj)



    Hope you guys could help me out...

    Thanks!

    Der Always Remain a Margin of Doubt!!!

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    inspect the engine no. itself on the engine, if it says A18A* then its a 1.8 block - inspect the cylinder head for the casting no. if its PH1 you have a 1.6 head.

    The timing belt marks on this engine are a bit obtuse, the crank timing mark can only be seen through the timing adjustment hole besides the engine no. stamp on the bell housing of the cylinder block. It should have a pointer and a T mark which denotes TDC. The cam marks are set by the cam pulley - it has two lines on either side which should align with head head machined surface for the cover. Install belt and let the tensioner apply tension, rotate the engine counting 3 teeth on the cam pulley and tighten tensioner, rotate engine twice and then, loosen and tighten again then recheck timing.

    You will find it very hard to purchase the 1.8 timing belt, The 1.8 A18 Accord/Preludes are very rare in Pakistan.

    For knock, firstly check the belt timing then check the distributor advance mehcanisms for sluggish response, it will probably be siezed or slow after all these years, Overhaul it and install a new seal, Use silicone grease only on the ignitor mounting base on the distributor (shiny silver plate on the side of it) - otherwise you might cook it.

    For the water jacket Im believing you are talking about water pump, its very easily available, get the OE Honda pump or a GMB pump (get one with a whole cast impeller, do not buy the plastic fan or steel fan one it doesnt move at the required rate). Make sure the engine has its 82C thermostat valve in place and make sure to use the bleeder screw to purge any air when filling coolant/water, otherwise your engine will heat up like mad.

    If you are talking about the round plugs on the block, then its best to replace all of them - they are 8 in total, 3 under the intake manifold, 3 under the exhaust, 1 behind the timing belt and 1 in the clutch bell housing. If one has rusted I can gaurantee all are rusted.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    O' wow didnt expect such a quick response... thanks @Xulfiqar for the detailed guidance. i will definately get to my mechanic and have it checked. Secondly water pump is okay.. i am talking about the Water Jacket, one end is attached to the header above the distributor cup and the other end is attached to the hose pipe coming from the radiator, its all damaged thou and my sciencedan mechanic filled the inside with Epoxy and so far water isnt leaking anymore.

    Timing bearing was okay and i just had the timing belt changed couple of weeks ago, and yes you are right he did advance the distributor cup..coz car was vibrating on cng. ill have that checked too..

    Secondly can i swap any other engine in this car with the same gear box? if yes which one would you suggest?? kindly give a ball part figure for the price as well... Thank you for the help thou!
    Der Always Remain a Margin of Doubt!!!

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    is this car 46 number
    Muhammad Ali Murad

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    ask the mechanic about the crank timing mark. There is one dot on the crank pulley for the belt but its only used with OE Honda Belt. The actual mark is seen on the flywheel. 95% of mechanics got it wrong on this car. It will start and run but wont run good.

    what you are calling jacket is actually the thermostat housing, you will need to find it in the junkyard. The most usual cause of corrossion there is failure to remove air bubbles from the system (there is a bleed nipple on that housing too for this purpose).

    Make sure your radiator lower tank is original, is at correct level and is sitting on the original 2 rubber feet, if yours is not original - no matter what you do you will never get it to run correctly. The lower tank is shaped very odd and usually the repairmen can not make an exact replica. The top one is easy.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    @aliam_786 no it isnt and i guess 46 number is a black accord?? am i right?
    Der Always Remain a Margin of Doubt!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    ask the mechanic about the crank timing mark. There is one dot on the crank pulley for the belt but its only used with OE Honda Belt. The actual mark is seen on the flywheel. 95% of mechanics got it wrong on this car. It will start and run but wont run good.

    what you are calling jacket is actually the thermostat housing, you will need to find it in the junkyard. The most usual cause of corrossion there is failure to remove air bubbles from the system (there is a bleed nipple on that housing too for this purpose).

    Make sure your radiator lower tank is original, is at correct level and is sitting on the original 2 rubber feet, if yours is not original - no matter what you do you will never get it to run correctly. The lower tank is shaped very odd and usually the repairmen can not make an exact replica. The top one is easy.
    @Xulfiqar, actually i got the radiator changed and installed a Kabli radiator of a toyota... it fitted exactly on the original rubber below.. but from top the radiator cap is a bit on the right side... so i removed the original shield (Patti *u know wat i mean*) and the dentar altered a new PATTI or shield watever it is called as per the new radiator cap. so far radiator is working fine... but since the thermostat housing or as per my mechanic WATER JACKET was damaged... he used epoxy and resolved the leackage problem and so far everything is goin smooth.. BUT THERE IS A PROBLEM HOUSTON!!! the bleed nipple thing is block since he epoxied everything from inside... and wenever i open the radiator cap to check the water either engine is cold or warm... AIR comes out like this:- poooooffff.

    1. Now will dis blocked bleed nipple create a problem?
    2. and whenever i put my feet hard on accelation, i smell smoke in the car.. Excaust pipe is ok, no leakage.. So what could be the reason??


    Waiting for your response Bro!
    Der Always Remain a Margin of Doubt!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by xevil View Post
    @aliam_786 no it isnt and i guess 46 number is a black accord?? am i right?
    yep i that was gun matalic but outer is showered wid black
    i was love number of that car and car too but my father was not willing
    that car was imported and registered by brother of main shareef
    Muhammad Ali Murad

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    Quote Originally Posted by aliam_786 View Post
    yep i that was gun matalic but outer is showered wid black
    i was love number of that car and car too but my father was not willing
    that car was imported and registered by brother of main shareef
    That car has alot of issues... original book is wid a mechanic for past 20 years, cause somebody ripped him off with sale of this car.. now the guy who has the car claims that book was thorned by his kid due to which he got the duplicate book...DUHH and that car is also full of diseases cuase it runs on petrol,cng & lpg.. just imagine how the engine is feeling.
    Der Always Remain a Margin of Doubt!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by xevil View Post
    That car has alot of issues... original book is wid a mechanic for past 20 years, cause somebody ripped him off with sale of this car.. now the guy who has the car claims that book was thorned by his kid due to which he got the duplicate book...DUHH and that car is also full of diseases cuase it runs on petrol,cng & lpg.. just imagine how the engine is feeling.
    lol having d15 carby of CiViC 95
    Muhammad Ali Murad

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    Quote Originally Posted by aliam_786 View Post
    lol having d15 carby of CiViC 95
    Exactly my Friend...
    Der Always Remain a Margin of Doubt!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by xevil View Post
    @Xulfiqar, actually i got the radiator changed and installed a Kabli radiator of a toyota... it fitted exactly on the original rubber below.. but from top the radiator cap is a bit on the right side... so i removed the original shield (Patti *u know wat i mean*) and the dentar altered a new PATTI or shield watever it is called as per the new radiator cap. so far radiator is working fine... but since the thermostat housing or as per my mechanic WATER JACKET was damaged... he used epoxy and resolved the leackage problem and so far everything is goin smooth.. BUT THERE IS A PROBLEM HOUSTON!!! the bleed nipple thing is block since he epoxied everything from inside... and wenever i open the radiator cap to check the water either engine is cold or warm... AIR comes out like this:- poooooffff.

    1. Now will dis blocked bleed nipple create a problem?
    2. and whenever i put my feet hard on accelation, i smell smoke in the car.. Excaust pipe is ok, no leakage.. So what could be the reason??


    Waiting for your response Bro!
    If you installed the toyota corona radiator - it lacks the fan switch on the bottom. The original radiator design is the best for this car, originally it also had rubber skirts around the radiator and condenser to make sure all air is going through the radiator and not around it. The bleed nipple is a mandatory requirement in this engine as the cap and upper pipe are at a near equal level which makes a great place for air to trap right behind the thermostat valve. Its a very annoying problem. Get a proper one as regular black plastic epoxy does not work well in unstable hot environments. At the very minimum you need to have it welded.

    The radiator will always suck some air when you open the cap - its normal as there is vacuum in it when cold. Dont open when hot otherwise you may end up in a hospital. (hot nurses dont look nice when you have 2nd degree burns)

    The smoke problem is usually related to the tail pipe of the car ending before the bumper, I can guarantee you wont have the original muffler, you mostly would have a corolla muffler there, For the corolla one you need to remake the hangers and tail pipe to it ends about 1 inch short of the bumper cutout as the bumper turns upwards. Get the welder to weld a piece of sheet metal to the muffler pipe entry and the body to prevent vibration failure.

    For remaking hangers - remember that you need to have them a little diagonal otherwise the exhaust will swing.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    If you installed the toyota corona radiator - it lacks the fan switch on the bottom. The original radiator design is the best for this car, originally it also had rubber skirts around the radiator and condenser to make sure all air is going through the radiator and not around it. The bleed nipple is a mandatory requirement in this engine as the cap and upper pipe are at a near equal level which makes a great place for air to trap right behind the thermostat valve. Its a very annoying problem. Get a proper one as regular black plastic epoxy does not work well in unstable hot environments. At the very minimum you need to have it welded.

    The radiator will always suck some air when you open the cap - its normal as there is vacuum in it when cold. Dont open when hot otherwise you may end up in a hospital. (hot nurses dont look nice when you have 2nd degree burns)

    The smoke problem is usually related to the tail pipe of the car ending before the bumper, I can guarantee you wont have the original muffler, you mostly would have a corolla muffler there, For the corolla one you need to remake the hangers and tail pipe to it ends about 1 inch short of the bumper cutout as the bumper turns upwards. Get the welder to weld a piece of sheet metal to the muffler pipe entry and the body to prevent vibration failure.

    For remaking hangers - remember that you need to have them a little diagonal otherwise the exhaust will swing.
    lol, i doubt in finding hot nurses in lahore ...

    this weekend i am getting the complete exaust pipe changed from front till end, and yes the muffler has been switched with a cheap one.. This is all because of the previous owener who really did all the TOOKh wala kaam that NO body could even imagine.. he applied ELFY to the flanger washer in the carby, depoxy to the engine seals and welded the tyre end and many more..

    and i forgot to ask you that is it possible if the butterflies of the carborator could have any kind of participation in the smoke thingy... i dont see smoke in the room but i can smell it wenever i give full throttle. This is really annoying and sometime i also smell petrol, and this happends wenever my tank is full.
    my mechanic checked the fuel pipe, tank even the fuel filter,... kehta hai sab kuch theak hai, apka VEHEM hai bus...
    @Xulfiqar, when are you planning to visit Lahore???? DOC i need to get an oppointment from ya.
    Der Always Remain a Margin of Doubt!!!

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