I went there about a week ago.
the road from Behreen to Kalam is in terrible condition;
you can say there is no road at all , just stones and sharp ones
the road from Mingora to Kalam has at least 30 check posts they check you id cards and journey from Mingora can take up-to 4-5 hours.
you cannot overtake a car near the check posts or the will penalize you for that.
as for the hotels, when we went there there were only 2-3 hotels open, but the people said in 15-20 days more hotels will be open. the PTDC is occupied by the army.
the place was quiet and there were only 3 cars from outside swat in kalam, 1 was ours.
it was like a curfew on the main street , but it is amazingly beautiful and the weather was absolutely brilliant, as it used to be.
we enjoyed a lot.
the army has controlled the whole area well, and there was not a single shot fired in Kalam in the whole crisis. its totally peaceful, they just register you and give you a visitors pass.
hotels are cheap because of less visitors, you can get a triple bed room for about Rs. 800-1000.
if you will go, you will surely enjoy it.