Theres nothing like low end branded stuff, someone who is selling something half the price (than branded, renowned stuff) on the market is definitely cutting on the quality.
Best is to go for specs.
OFC, Oxygen Free Copper, perfectly shielded, this would help slow down corrosion. Cable would last longer than the car. Better shielding would avoid any cuts or cracks in case of low quality PVC coating.
100% pure copper, this would assure steady current flow. No matter you're planning it soft, or cranking the volume up. Only possible with low resistance. Conductivity is, GOLD>Silver>Copper. Gold and Silver are way too expensive to we are left with Copper, this should be 100%, and Oxygen free, cause Oxygen helps rusting and corrosion.
Wire Gauge, its calculated, if your amp is laying next to your battery, you can put a thin piece of wire, increase the distance and you'd need a thicker wire.. if you give me your fuse rating on amp, exact cable run from battery to amp i would tell your what exact mm2 thickness or in other words what wire gauge would suit you..
Use proper fuse rating, use decent thimbles and don't just splice the cable and squeeze it into the already existing batter terminal, put petroleum jelly on terminal to avoid corrosion.. Select your ground point carefully, never use more than 2-3 feet ground cable..
Lastly, and very important, when you upgrade your cable to the amp, use the same cable for grounding it. ALSO, use the same cable to ground battery terminal to the chassis, and upgrade all grounding terminals in the engine bay
People spend thousands on HU's, Amp's and Speaker's, but when it comes to integrate them, they look for cheap options, WTH? I can setup a system in 5k and not expect anything out of it