It must have been more pristine back then and would be a pleasure if you can share some shots from that era.
Yeah, things haven't changed as much as one would expect in a generation's time.
September is a good time to visit (given we don't get post-monsoon floods this year).
I stayed at Al-Syed Shabistan and can definitely recommend it. There are a couple more options in Taobat + Army guest rooms are available in Halmat (4 kms before Taobat).
You don't need to rent a jeep from Keran. Plenty of public and private jeeps are available in Kel.
There's a direct overnight jeep from Muzaffarabad to Taobat if you don't mind public transport and wanna reach your destination quickly.
These couple of threads might be helpful.
https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/road-trips-vacations-hiking-trekking/238973-ik-phoolon-ki-wadi-mein
https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/road-trips-vacations-hiking-trekking/244611-karachi-taobat-nonstop-public-transport-family-trip-august-september-2014-a