Tune up - what you'll need
Regardless of what engine you have in your VW it is important for you to know a few basic things about the flat4 engine as alot of the times the local mechanics are not that helpful and secondly these cars are quite old and are running 2nd hand parts. Now if you do alot of DIY work you SHOULD have some form or VW service manual, but in case you don't it's advisable you pick one up from asadishaque as soon as possible.
Alot of this info in the next few articles i do is take from volkswagens great "without guesswork" series of information booklets (which have been out of print for well over a decade now so i suggest you make a copy on your hard drive of the "specs")
The tools needed for an oil change and to do a tune-up are:
- 3/8-inch ratchet (with wobbler bar for flywheel-end spark plugs)
- 13/16-inchspark plug socket
- 13mm box end wrench
- flat bladed screw driver
- 10mm socket
- feeler guages (0.006-inch & 0.016-inch)
- spark plug gapping tool (or 0.024-inch feeler guage)
- compression tester
- timing light (in some cases a static test light will also work)
From the factory all VW's had Bosch ignition equipment so it is advisable to stick with OEM parts wherever possible rather than switching over to Suzuki items which has become very common in PK (something I'm also guilty of). What you'll need (service parts) will be points, condenser, rotor & distributor cap.
I will discuss plugs briefly for now as i am also writing an article on plugs after this one. the factory advises bosch 145-1, which are hard to find in PK so anything equivilant is also fine. do note that bosch 175-T1plugs are a little "cooler" as they have less tendancey for "run-on" or "pre-ignition" and to add they also transfer their heat to the cylinder head quicker. technically both the 145 & 175 are more or less the same under normal running, but the fact that the 175 has better heat dissipation makes it the plug of choice for our hot climate (if you can find 175's).
When doing a tune-up in a old VW it's obvious you'll be changing the oil but you should note that you'll also need valve cover gaskets (very good cork replacement units are available in pindi) and if possible a oil strainer gaskit kit (not available in PK right now). if you are lucky enough to go abroad to get a set do note that you should go for the ones with the thick copper gaskets as the brass coloured ones have a tendency to leak. also don't forget your fellow PW VW enthusiasts when purchasing such items.
VW recommends you change the oil, clean the strainer & adjust the valves every 3000 miles, do a tune-up and either clean or change the air filter every 6000miles. My advice is to reduce these numbers by half for our hot & dusty environment. Also if possible it is advisable to run a compression test when doing a tune up.
Depending on the age of your VW, the strainer plate may or may not have an oil drain plug. Originally ALL VW strainer plates had a drain plug which made draining oil easier. The problem was many muppets didn't remove the plate to clean the screen when changing the oil (which is mandatory since there isn't a "filter in these engines). If you find you do not have a drain plug you will need to remove 5 of the cap nuts and then loosen the last one to get to the oil. You may need to pry the plate down a bit with a screwdriver but it's advisable you have the plate switched with one with a drain plug at the soonest possible chance AND to get a magnetic drain plug which can be useful in catching metallic particles in the oil.
timing specs according to engine code
Type I
D - 10 deg before Top Dead Centre (TDC)
F - 7.5 deg before Top Dead Centre (TDC)
H - 7.5 deg before Top Dead Centre (TDC)
B - 0 deg before/after Top Dead Centre (TDC)
AE - 5 deg after Top Dead Centre (TDC)*
AK - 5 deg after Top Dead Centre (TDC)
AH - 5 deg after Top Dead Centre (TDC)
AM - 5 deg after Top Dead Centre (TDC)
*(from 1973 timing is 7.5 deg after TDC& is checked with vaccum hose removed)
timing specs according to engine code
Type II
D - 10 deg before Top Dead Centre (TDC)
G - 10 deg before Top Dead Centre (TDC)
H - 7.5 deg before Top Dead Centre (TDC)
B - 0 deg before/after Top Dead Centre (TDC)
AE - 5 deg after Top Dead Centre (TDC)
CB - 5 deg after Top Dead Centre (TDC)*
CD - 5 deg after Top Dead Centre (TDC)
AW - 5 deg after Top Dead Centre (TDC)
*(from Aug 1972 timing is 10 deg after TDC)
timing specs according to engine code - for the lucky few
Type III
K - 10 deg before Top Dead Centre (TDC)
R - 10 deg before Top Dead Centre (TDC)
T - 7.5 deg before Top Dead Centre (TDC)
U - 5 deg before Top Dead Centre (TDC)
X - 5 deg before Top Dead Centre (TDC)
Additional notes
If you are using a gapping tool to check spark plug gaps, you'll need to tap the plug end slightly to reduce the gap and a thin flat head screw driver to open it.
After the installation of the points, check to make sure the gap is at 0.016 when they are opened all the way. Next, install the new condenser, new rotor and distributor cap if needed
The small block on the points need to be lubricated with some grease. With bosch points it's best to use bosch grease. it is a good idea to get a tube of this stuff as it us very handy, lasts a very long time and has many uses. (part number is 5700 002 005 I think)
Timing can be checked with a static light, this method is perfectly fine and acceptable for old VW's, but if you wish to get a perfectly accurate measurement a dynamic light works better.
Now this is a simple guide and once i get on my other computer I'll be able to add the timings of the other engines I have as well (such as my AR series 1300 dual port)
Please feel free to ask questions, and give feedback but I'll request that you wait till I'm done with the plug article before.
@mods
Please delete irrelevant replies as I'd like to keep this thread informative.
Mod edit: posts merged and new info added