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Thread: Problems after tuning.... Mitsubishi lancer 1992

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    Default Problems after tuning.... Mitsubishi lancer 1992

    Recently i went to mechanic for flushing and replacement of power steering oil. Moreover, i got the carburettor cleaned with carby cleaner and got the tunning done on petrol. Before this activity car was drinking petrol.... 5 km/lit... also it was giving dark smoke with half burnt petrol smell in cabin. After the tuning black smoke has reduced and that half burnt fuel smell is gone. i am checking its mileage now on petrol. During this whole activity i noticed that engine sump seal got leaked. Got it changed and saw that seal between engine and gear box was also leaky. Got it replaced too and as for this seal whole gear box was required to be removed so utilized the chance to get the clutch plate and bearing replaced too as they were noisy. After this whole episode the problem which i am facing is that

    1. if i accelerate the car quickly i hear engine knocking which progressively finishes when car gets momentum.

    2. second thing is that when car is cold shifting to 2nd gear is quite difficult which smooths after the car attains nominal temperature.

    NOTE: Car is also on CNG. i hav removed air blockage as i want to first get best results on petrol. i.e good mileage without knocking. Plz advise...


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    1) Your ignition timing is set on advance to accomodate satisfactory acceleration on cng. To reduce knocking on petrol you would have to retard the timing via distributor, loosen the two bolts, turn it clockwise/anticlockwise, i dont remember which, but it will reduce your acceleration on cng. So when you run on cng again you will have to advance ignition timing.

    2) Is it hard during cold drive to shift from second to third too? Normally the condition your explaining is due to the very thick gear oil. It takes time for the gear oil to heatup and get thin. After it gets thin your gears shift like butter. The service station wala khula gear oil is mainly the cause, its so thick that the gears have to work against it in order to shift.

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    check and grease/adjust the distributor, and also verify that your carburettor reaction piston return spring is not cut or weak, also make sure that the metering needle is not scratched up
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by mostwanted_001 View Post
    1) Your ignition timing is set on advance to accomodate satisfactory acceleration on cng. To reduce knocking on petrol you would have to retard the timing via distributor, loosen the two bolts, turn it clockwise/anticlockwise, i dont remember which, but it will reduce your acceleration on cng. So when you run on cng again you will have to advance ignition timing.

    2) Is it hard during cold drive to shift from second to third too? Normally the condition your explaining is due to the very thick gear oil. It takes time for the gear oil to heatup and get thin. After it gets thin your gears shift like butter. The service station wala khula gear oil is mainly the cause, its so thick that the gears have to work against it in order to shift.
    thnx bro. got the knocking problem solved by retarding the timing on petrol. now i am checking what mileage the car gives. if that is satisfactory on petrol then i would fiddle for CNG. my question in case of CNG is that

    1. Is there any mechanism by which i dont have to advance the engine timing for CNG through distributor ??

    2. The air volume required for CNG would be much less as compared to petrol. i intend to install a moveable butterfly mechanism to control the inlet airflow while using CNG. plz advise.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    check and grease/adjust the distributor, and also verify that your carburettor reaction piston return spring is not cut or weak, also make sure that the metering needle is not scratched up
    thnx bro. although i hav solved the knocking problem by adjusting the timing through distributor but still hav to verify mileage. i feel that piston return spring can affect that. how to verify if its weak or satisfactory ?

    as i mentioned i am checking what mileage the car gives. if that is satisfactory on petrol then i would fiddle for CNG. my question in case of CNG is that

    1. Is there any mechanism by which i dont have to advance the engine timing for CNG through distributor ??

    2. The air volume required for CNG would be much less as compared to petrol. i intend to install a moveable butterfly mechanism to control the inlet airflow while using CNG. plz advise.

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    Quote Originally Posted by qadir12345 View Post
    thnx bro. got the knocking problem solved by retarding the timing on petrol. now i am checking what mileage the car gives. if that is satisfactory on petrol then i would fiddle for CNG. my question in case of CNG is that

    1. Is there any mechanism by which i dont have to advance the engine timing for CNG through distributor ??

    2. The air volume required for CNG would be much less as compared to petrol. i intend to install a moveable butterfly mechanism to control the inlet airflow while using CNG. plz advise.
    1) On old carby engines i think the best way is to advance it through the distributor. It only takes 5 minutes to do so. In the old days when i understood how it works, I started doing it myself when ever required. So its pretty easy, keep it simple and things will work. If you get into other ways to do this job, it increases the chances of someting going wrong.

    2) I used to run my 1800cc galant on cng with those cold air intake filters. I had removed the orignal air filter and its housing, intalled a pipe directly on the carby, after 12-18 inches long, the pipe had that intake filter on it. It worked awesome! Great acceleration. Mileage was okay as i never got good mileage on my galant in any case. It ran around 80km on a 55kg tank with AC. The mileage was same on normal air filter/filter box. So i was using air volume on cng which was orignally intended for petrol. It all depends on the setup, the air/cng ratio set, the length of the cng pipe from the cng kit itself, the diameter of the pipe and the guy who is trying to make it all run. I think in this case Xulfi bhai knows much more on what kind of setup is best for your case.

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    I would say that first free up and grease the centrifugal advance in the distributor, overtime is becomes slow to respond and the engine feels numb, refreshing it so it snaps into action will make a big difference in engine response and also manifold vacuum which itself is vital for this carburettor to work properly.

    For the carburettor piston reaction spring, I cannot tell you the dimensions of it, but for sure you will be able to identify it if it was cut, There should also be an oil damper on the back of it too, it ensures smooth opening of the piston.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    I would say that first free up and grease the centrifugal advance in the distributor, overtime is becomes slow to respond and the engine feels numb, refreshing it so it snaps into action will make a big difference in engine response and also manifold vacuum which itself is vital for this carburettor to work properly.

    For the carburettor piston reaction spring, I cannot tell you the dimensions of it, but for sure you will be able to identify it if it was cut, There should also be an oil damper on the back of it too, it ensures smooth opening of the piston.
    Thnx Bro... So far i hav been following ur advice and and i can feel improvement in my car. Will list them soon once i am done to a level.... Credit goes to you mainly. i would follow what u told abt distributor.
    About the carby which type of oil to be used for damping and wht should be its level... i am doubtful if its already there bcz when i told the mechanic who once serviced it sometime back he said that there is no oil in this piston type carby.. mostly mechanic call it drum wala carby... bcz of the piston which moves once accelerator is pushed. plz advise. two more things i wanna discuss with u ...
    1. what kind of earthing/grounding setup should i follow? pics would be helpful. should i remain limited to engine hood section or should i extend it to rear of car too...? wht benefits should i expect may it be performance or safety ?

    2. Should i connect heating pipes with CNG as per original setup even being in karachi ?? will it give any improvement ??

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    Default Timing Retarder

    You can use this timing retarder in your car to retard the timing when shifted to petrol.I have installed it in my Khyber and it's working fine.

    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/per...77#post3206355

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    Quote Originally Posted by qadir12345 View Post
    Thnx Bro... So far i hav been following ur advice and and i can feel improvement in my car. Will list them soon once i am done to a level.... Credit goes to you mainly. i would follow what u told abt distributor.
    About the carby which type of oil to be used for damping and wht should be its level... i am doubtful if its already there bcz when i told the mechanic who once serviced it sometime back he said that there is no oil in this piston type carby.. mostly mechanic call it drum wala carby... bcz of the piston which moves once accelerator is pushed. plz advise. two more things i wanna discuss with u ...
    1. what kind of earthing/grounding setup should i follow? pics would be helpful. should i remain limited to engine hood section or should i extend it to rear of car too...? wht benefits should i expect may it be performance or safety ?

    2. Should i connect heating pipes with CNG as per original setup even being in karachi ?? will it give any improvement ??
    Xullfiqar. Still waiting for the reply......

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    Quote Originally Posted by qadir12345 View Post
    Thnx Bro... So far i hav been following ur advice and and i can feel improvement in my car. Will list them soon once i am done to a level.... Credit goes to you mainly. i would follow what u told abt distributor.
    About the carby which type of oil to be used for damping and wht should be its level... i am doubtful if its already there bcz when i told the mechanic who once serviced it sometime back he said that there is no oil in this piston type carby.. mostly mechanic call it drum wala carby... bcz of the piston which moves once accelerator is pushed. plz advise. two more things i wanna discuss with u ...
    1. what kind of earthing/grounding setup should i follow? pics would be helpful. should i remain limited to engine hood section or should i extend it to rear of car too...? wht benefits should i expect may it be performance or safety ?

    2. Should i connect heating pipes with CNG as per original setup even being in karachi ?? will it give any improvement ??
    Xulfiqar. Still waiting for the reply......

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    When cleaning out corolla carbies like this one they had a little capsule that held oil, it worked like a shockabsorber and was on the very base of the piston.

    The CNG coolant pipes are necessary but require that you mount the kit in a fashion that the coolant pipes are below the level of the radiator cap, Otherwise you will always have an airpocket in the cooling system which will cause overheating.

    For your battery ground connections, one cable to the transmission branched to the body, one from the engine to the radiator support frame is enough.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    When cleaning out corolla carbies like this one they had a little capsule that held oil, it worked like a shockabsorber and was on the very base of the piston.

    The CNG coolant pipes are necessary but require that you mount the kit in a fashion that the coolant pipes are below the level of the radiator cap, Otherwise you will always have an airpocket in the cooling system which will cause overheating.

    For your battery ground connections, one cable to the transmission branched to the body, one from the engine to the radiator support frame is enough.
    Problems after tuning Mitsubishi lancer 1992 -368463

    Xulfiqar. as you can see in the pic that the piston is backed by a spring and no oil damping. Got the carby tuned and MashaAllah my car is giving now 12km/l. All the air blockages are removed previously installed for CNG. Plz advise on following:

    1. When idling on CNG RMP are smooth on abt 950 but on petrol RMP are slightly jerky and take a dip from 950 to abt 750/650. it happens like 8-10 times in a minute. Possible cause and remedy..... ?

    2. Whenever accelerating in any gear car knocks for a short interval till it attains the required acceleration. Tell me how much should i retard the timing? Although mechanic retarded it few days back but she still knocks.

    3. For distributor servicing as you previously advised what grease should i use for its rotor ??

    4. For Grounding what gauge wire you recommend?

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    The toyota ones usually on 2E-LU engines had an arm behind the piston that connected to a damper. (maybe it was installed for that special emmissions engine, anyway - remove and overhaul the distributor centrifugal advance - the grease recommended is regular wheel bearing grease. It should not be very thick as it wont stick to the rotor shaft or weight undersides properly.

    Any good mechanic should know how to dismantle the distributor, If yours does not, then you have to find someone who can or do it yourself.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    The toyota ones usually on 2E-LU engines had an arm behind the piston that connected to a damper. (maybe it was installed for that special emmissions engine, anyway - remove and overhaul the distributor centrifugal advance - the grease recommended is regular wheel bearing grease. It should not be very thick as it wont stick to the rotor shaft or weight undersides properly.

    Any good mechanic should know how to dismantle the distributor, If yours does not, then you have to find someone who can or do it yourself.
    Thnx Xulfiqar.... but u seem quite in hurry to reply and missed point 1, 2 and 4. Plz do advise me on those as 1 and 2 are more bothering....

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    the points 1 and 2 can be resolved by ensuring the vacuum advance is correctly connected and that the centrifugal advance is working smoothly. By your test it seems that the vacuum advance plate is a bit stuck.

    Point 4 is that - whatever the factory gave you is enough or just one size larger.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    the points 1 and 2 can be resolved by ensuring the vacuum advance is correctly connected and that the centrifugal advance is working smoothly. By your test it seems that the vacuum advance plate is a bit stuck.

    Point 4 is that - whatever the factory gave you is enough or just one size larger.
    While working on the distributor as u advised i got little confused as normally vacuum advanced distributors are fitted with one vacuum line but mine is connected with two lines. can u plz explain me purpose of these two lines and plz also let me know if this configuration is better or single vacuum line distributor ??? as i read following in some auto discussion forum on net

    Quote

    """""""Dual vacuum advance distributor
    When I got my '68 302 it got 8 MPG in a '68 Galaxie. It also ran like a dog, hardly moved off the line, and didn't have much oomph up top either. My '67 Gal with a 289 and the same drivetrain got 14-15 MPG typically and was rather quick, blew away the '68.

    Just going from the dual vacuum advance/retard unit to an adjustable advance unit got me up to 12 MPG. Not a single other change to the car. It also worked wonders for acceleration. It could actually get out of it's own way! After advancing initial timing a little too and rebuilding the carb and a whole tune-up I managed a high of 17 MPG highway and 14 around town. Timing is not everything, but it's damned close!

    The purpose of the advance/retard unit was to control emissions. It also has a side benefit of if the car was overheating it would switch the advance vacuum from ported to manifold to give more timing at idle, raising the engine RPM and thus pulling more air through the radiator helping to cool the engine down. Not sure how much it actually helped but I do know that on the couple occasions I've overheated simply raising the RPM a little cooled it back down pretty quickly. The more timing the cooler an engine runs, the less timing the hotter it runs (since more energy and burn time of the fuel is wasted)."""

    unquote

    Regards

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    The two port vacuum pod for the distributor takes one port as manifold vacuum and one port as ported vacuum.

    This is done to achieve extra sensitive vacuum repsonse from the vacuum port in the carburettor throttle bore.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    The two port vacuum pod for the distributor takes one port as manifold vacuum and one port as ported vacuum.

    This is done to achieve extra sensitive vacuum repsonse from the vacuum port in the carburettor throttle bore.
    Thnx bro... but u didnt tell me as to which one is better...? single or double port vacuum distributor ??? is it correct that car response and mileage with single port vacuum distributor is better than double port one...???

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    it's the childhood model of this lancer.
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