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Thread: Bike Tour 4,000 KMS - Karachi - Naran - Astor (Gilgit Balistan) and Back to Karachi

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    Default Bike Tour 4,000 KMS - Karachi - Naran - Astor (Gilgit Balistan) and Back to Karachi

    My Travel Itinerary:

    Day 01: Wed - Aug 21st --> Karachi to Uch Sharif (Punjab)

    Day 02: Thur- Aug 22nd --> Uch Sharif to D.I. Khan (KPK)

    Day 03: Fri - Aug 23rd --> Stayed in D.I. Khan (KPK)

    Day 04: Sat - Aug 24th --> DI Khan to Islamabad

    Day 05: Sun - Aug 25th --> Stayed in Islamabad

    Day 06: Mon - Aug 26th --> Islamabad to Naran

    Day 07: Tue - Aug 27th --> Naran to Astor (Gilgit Balistan)

    Day 08: Wed - Aug 28th --> Astor to Rama Lake and Back to Naran

    Day 09: Thur - Aug 29th --> Naran to Islamabad

    Day 10: Fri - Aug 30th --> Islamabad to Karachi

    Day 11: Sat - Aug 31st --> Traveling to Karachi

    Day 12: Sun - Sep 01st --> Early Morning Arrived in Karachi



    I have lived abroad most of my life and only returned to Pakistan some three years back. I now live in Karachi and have driven to Islamabad many times by car and its been an exhilarating experience every time.

    My Bike Adventure plans began more than two years back when I was visiting Northern Areas (Naran) with Cousins from Islamabad. I drove my car alone from Karachi to Islamabad and got together with 9 others in two cars and explored the Northern areas for the very first time in my life and was struck by its shear beauty. Along the way I saw many people on motorcycles whom I thought were locals at first, or perhaps from Islamabad area. However, upon discovering Pakwheels I was amazed to see that so many people were driving their bikes in groups from various parts of Punjab as were as a few courageous souls who also traveled from other places and posted their step by step travel experiences, both on bikes and cars.

    So I began to think what it would be like to drive a bike across the country since I had already done that by car many times. I should point out that where I had lived my entire life one could not imagine driving a bike, at least not an entire year due to heavy snow during winters and many wet days of rain throughout summer. So to put it plainly, I had never driven a bike nor did I know how to drive one. Although I sad on a few bikes in Pakistan as a passenger but never really driven one.

    So now I was becoming more and more bold in researching bikes both on Pakwheels as well as on olx. I came to a realization that most long distance riders who posted on Pakwheels chose either a Honda 125 or a Suzuki GS 150. I took many months researching both the pros and cons of both bikes to see which was better for longer drives, fuel economy, accessible spare parts, durability and so on. And although I was leaning more towards purchasing a Honda, I was told that in Karachi it would not be wise to buy a new Honda and instead to go for a new Suzuki GS 150 due to the high demand of Hondas and the high likelihood of a new 125 being stolen.

    So a year back (Nov 2012) after doing plenty of research I finally purchased my first ever Bike, GS 150 and asked the seller to deliver it to my office since I didn't want anyone at home to know had I purchased a bike since I didn't know how to ride one just yet. At my office I used the help of my guard to teach me how to turn it on, how to put it in gear, how to break and all the basics which were totally a new experience for me. After some three weeks of learning to ride in our large office parking lot after hours when there was no traffic I finally gained the confidence of driving it home. I began to drive it from home to office daily after everyone came to know I had purchased a bike but due to the fact I could comfortably ride it not too many objected to me purchasing a bike as I had originally thought.


    A month later I took my first ever 'Long Distance Test Drive' experience to Hyderabad which took me close to 3 hours with a brief 5 min stop at two places to adjust my ever so aching bum. I had a relative in the Army who was posted in Hyd Cantt. After a two night stay and a professional Champi I returned back to Karachi and realized just how painful and exhausting a long drive can be. Nothing could be done I thought, to resolve the issue of an aching bum from such a long drive.

    Upon reading many of the threads on this site I finally realized I needed a cushion to sit on for a longer drive as well as some basic necessities I would need for a longer drive.

    So this year from Feb/March I began my plan to ride to Islamabad and then up to Naran if I can. I did post on here asking for people's advice as to whether it was safe to drive to Naran from Karachi in March-April and most responded that Naran will not be approachable till late May due to snow which has not yet melted. So the next possible time I had was holidays just after Eid in August.

    So on Aug 21st I began my road trip to Islamabad. But I had only 10 days since I had to be back to work on Monday Sept 2nd and that meant I would have to be back in Karachi by Sat Aug 30th or Sun Aug 31st and allow myself to rest for a day on Sunday.

    I did the following very basic modifications;
    - HID Headlight for high beam, low beam was regular headlight
    - Installed a Car Lighter Adapter in order to keep my mobile charged while I listened to music during my drive
    - Installed a new wider and larger Tire in rear
    - Purchased new tubes for the front and back
    - Wasn't sure of the tools so left that since I have never changed a tire but was certain I would find a puncture shop on the road
    - Purchased an extra Clutch Cable and a Break Cable
    - Installed saddle bags for each side for my Water Supply and other heavy items
    - Installed two Heavy Horns to sound like a Corolla which really really helped throughout the trip
    - After getting a Fresh Oil Change two days before leaving, Also purchased an extra liter of oil for the road

    What I forgot was to purchase a pump, someone might help me change a tube but how would we pump air into the tire? That was something I realized much later after returning back to Karachi.

    I guess these are all the items I got done to the Bike before leaving. Now I should point out once again that all these ideas I got on this website from reading many other postings except for the lighter adapter which was my idea since I could not go an entire day without being certain I had a mobile which was charged for security situations in case I needed to call someone.

    I had a Thermos with ice cubes and frozen cold water along with frozen water bottles for the road.

    I began my trip exactly at 3:30 AM on Wed Aug 21st in order to do most of my drive in cool temperatures and avoid the summer heat. My plan was to clear Sindh in Day time and enter Punjab before sun set and take a hotel in Rahim Yar Khan. Now I had no idea just how long it would take me to reach Rahim Yar Khan so I planned a stop at RY Khan for the first night. My relative who lived in Hyderabad the year before had been re-posted to Dera Ismail Khan so now the plan was to stop there on my way to Islamabad, which meant a new route I had never been on.

    So my second night stay would have to be DI Khan if I could reach it.

    I left Karachi with a half tank of Fuel (Rs 500) in order to keep the weight light so I could easily cope with the steep hills I had to climb on my way to Hyderabad knowing full well that I would find many petrol pumps along the way. The plan was to fill up just after crossing Hyderabad as it would be a more flatter and smoother ride. I cleared Hyd just after 6:30 AM and filled up to the top. I drove past many farming communities and realized that although I had driven this route many times over the past 3 years, I never saw this view from the car which I was enjoying now on my bike trip. I kept a steady speed of 80 and sometimes even touched 90 on clear roads but had to slow back down 70 near heavy traffic.

    I stopped somewhere at a Truck Stop (Charpai Hotel) for breakfast at around 9 AM, not sure if I can remember the place but it may be close to Moro. I am certain that the very first 3 pics should remind some of the readers as to the location if they have traveled this route.


    After a 45 Minute stop for nashta which I had on a Charpai I got back on my bike and head further into Sindh. Now I should also mention that I had my relatives believe I would go by Bus and book my Bike on top all the way to Islamabad and then do my road trip from Isb to Naran. No one would believe it was possible or even safe to travel by bike this long route. This is why you will notice I had most all of my pics with my bike in order to later convince people that I in fact drove my bike and did not just stop the bus to take pics along the way.

    Most of the readers will automatically recognize these areas of interior Sindh along Kherpur, Gotki and other areas where I stopped to take pics.
    As it got closer and closer to the afternoon, it got hotter and hotter. I would stop periodically to open the water bottle in my saddle bag on the side which was already warm, so I would take a cup which I carried and mix the ice cold water with the warm water so as to not to have a very cold drink and at the same time make the water cold enough to drink and keep myself hydrated in the heat of August.

    I was expecting to reach the border of Punjab and cross Sadiqqabad and catch a hotel in RY Khan sometime in the evening knowing full well that I would have to stop within Sindh to take rest under the shade of a tree during the afternoon, but to my surprise I kept riding without tiring and by 2:30 pm I was already at RY Khan. I wondered what I would do all day in RY Khan and rather than sleeping it off at the hotel all day I decided to keep on going and pushed further ahead and improvise on my night stay along the way.

    Although I would stop from time to time to drink plenty of water along the way I noticed now that I was not perspiring, I was not passing urine, and so I was wondering where all that water was going. I mean I had possible drank almost 3 liters of water, two full Nestle bottles which are at least a liter and a half each. But soon I came head on with my worst fears. I began to feel a light headache which got worst as I drove, I was feeling the heat radiating from the asphalt on the road below me and I felt hotter and hotter with my forehead beginning to sweat.

    I was come down with a heat stroke. I quickly started searching for any shade I could find but to my surprise, after passing RY Khan I really didn't see any tree but rather just fields and fields of vegetation. Soon I began to see trees in a distance and now I began to wish for a tree I could just drive my bike across the field and park under the tree to rest it off and cool down.

    There was a small dirt road cutting of the highway into some village in a distance but that road was enough for me to have access to the tree line and I just drove into the field of grass and parked my bike under the rich green trees. I pulled out a plastic sheet which I had carried with me for such occasions and laid it on the uneven dried mud field and then took out the plain which sheet to lay on top of the plastic sheet and then used the cushion I was carrying to sit on as a pillow and just laid down to sleep. I don?t know when I dosed off to sleep but could hear people walking in the distance on that dirt road hardly 50 feet from where I was sleeping. From time to time I would open my eyes and see the people walk by or on bikes who were locals and they would look at me but carried on without stopping.

    When I finally woke it was past 5:30 pm and I slowly got up, took out some much needed cold water and mixed it with the water from the bottle and drank a good three glasses down. I sat simply lay for another 10 mins or so and then folded the bed sheet and the plastic sheet and put them back in place.
    I got back on the road and although I could still feel the heat readiating from the road beneath me, it was nothing as before and I also knew it would cool down now that the sun was at an angle and would set in another two to three hours.

    From my map I knew I had to get off the main N5 highway and go towards Uch Sharif and then onward towards DI Khan and stop for night stay somewhere at a Hotel. When I reached Uch it was almost Maghrib time so I stopped at the most beautiful Charpai Hotel that I had ever seen. It was beautifully built with paved parking lot, a nice small mosque next to it which was glittering in marble and glass designs and kalima written all around it in colorful tiles. It was so well lit with dozens of bulbs. So I stopped for Maghrib and then decided to have dinner. As usual I asked the waiter for a nice meal and then they asked where I was coming from and where I was heading upon seeing the luggage on my bike. I told them and they were shocked, that I had driven all the far from Karachi. I asked how far Ali Pur was since that was on route, they said it would be another 2 hours so I asked if there were any hotels to stay at in Ali Pur. They one by one along with other customers who heard of my trip and where I planned on going came to me and requested I not drive further due to bad security conditions during the night as well as there are no services along the way until Ali Pur in case I got a tire puncture or other problems. They all recommended I stay the night at the charpai hotel.

    So after dinner and isha I asked where I could sleep since my bike had luggage which was difficult for me to undo and then again it took a while for me to tie it and didn't want to waste time in the morning putting it on once again. So they suggested they would set up a charpai for me in the veranda (baranda) where I could park my bike next to me and they too had armed guards who would also watch out for my luggage and bike so not to worry. And the best part was the stay overnight was absolutely FREE. So I did just that and was fast asleep by 9:30 pm and had set my mobile alarm for 4 am in order to be on the road early to beat the summer heat and not face another day of heat stroke on my way to DI Khan.

    When I woke up in the morning at 4 am I shut the alarm and went back to sleep since it was such a restful sleep with a cool breeze thinking I would just rest for another 10 mins before getting up. It was the morning azan which I woke up to at around 5: 00 AM. I quickly told the waiter to prepare nashta for me (Chai Paratha) while I go to offer namaz. After nashta at 5:30 I was about to leave but was requested to wait till the sun came out for safety and so I did just that. There are a few pics of my morning nashta in that charpai hotel at Uch.

    I filled up at their pump and by 6 AM I was on the road again passing through many rivers along the road which were so pretty seeing the reflection in the water early in the morning.

    I drove to DG Khan, and then to DI Khan where I reached at 1:30 PM and stayed with my relative Major Hasan for two days. Enjoyed his family?s hospitality and wonderful food. And on Sat Aug, 24th at 6 Am after breakfast Major Hasan arranged for his Driver and Guard to escort me for a safe passage to the city limits and they put me on the road leading to Chashma.



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  2. #161
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    Excellent Trip.
    Life is thrill. Live it.

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    really nice thread...kudos to u uncle g........hats off....

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    Quote Originally Posted by dr.omair View Post
    Sir your adventure has been amazing!!!!!
    Please don't reply to people who are trying to argue with u for no reason. U chose to buy a bike from your own pocket, no one gave it to u for free.
    There are people here who are going to pick up a fight and destroy this wonderful thread. Just stop replying to them and u will be all good
    Dear Dr. Omair, thank you so much for your words of appreciation and wisdom. I truly appreciate your advice and had no idea there are characters such as those we are referring to on this site. This is very unfortunate since this medium is strictly for sharing wonderful experiences and knowledge and I hope it stays that way.

    Again, I thank you for your sincerity and advice.

    Regards

    Sulaiman

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    Whole day I wasn't able to check this thread out. Just got time around midnight and seems like you've done a great job in updating the thread today. Loved all the updates and looking forward for more
    Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity... ~ John Muir

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    Default Finally arrived at Rama Lake

    I had already written and posted plenty of pics of arriving at Rama but as right at the end the net was disconnected and some how all was lost. So I will try to recollect my thoughts and attempt at writing again.

    I had finally reached Rama Lake and could see it from a distance so I stopped to take a few poses from there and gradually as I descended downward into the valley where the lake was I kept on taking different angels of view.

    I could see in a distance that the Argentinian couple were waiting for me at the bottom of the lake. In fact you might be able to see them in the last two pics here. In the last pic where I am taking the pic while sitting on the bike, if you look over my bike mirror to the top left at a 45 degree angle you can spot their jeep at the tip of the lake.

    It was a pleasant surprise to know that I was pretty much the only soul in that area aside from the three others (two Argentinians and a Police Officer). It was peaceful, very quiet, and very picturesque.

    The mountain range was all around me but the most pleasant site was that of Nanga Parbath in the backdrop of the Lake in front of me.
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    What an amazing thread Sulaiman sahab.... Simply amazing...
    The writing is top class....
    The adventure is top class...
    Your courage top class....
    as far as the CG125 vs 150CC is concerned I own both of them. I have done Neelum valley on my Suzuki GS150 (2011 Model) the same as yours and it is an excellent choice for Northern areas/long routes. Much much better shock absorbers and you feel like you are sitting in a car when you are riding it. Also it is very good for steep slopes etc. The only problem with it is it's weight. When it starts tilting to one side (in a stand still position) it is quite difficult to prevent it from falling unless you have long legs or are physically very strong.
    I wished you had taken an extra day and visited Deosai and Trashing as well. Is qadar kareeb aa kar bhee aap in jaghon ko dekhe baghair wapas chale gaye....

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    Quote Originally Posted by imarshad View Post
    What an amazing thread Sulaiman sahab.... Simply amazing...
    The writing is top class....
    The adventure is top class...
    Your courage top class....
    as far as the CG125 vs 150CC is concerned I own both of them. I have done Neelum valley on my Suzuki GS150 (2011 Model) the same as yours and it is an excellent choice for Northern areas/long routes. Much much better shock absorbers and you feel like you are sitting in a car when you are riding it. Also it is very good for steep slopes etc. The only problem with it is it's weight. When it starts tilting to one side (in a stand still position) it is quite difficult to prevent it from falling unless you have long legs or are physically very strong.
    I wished you had taken an extra day and visited Deosai and Trashing as well. Is qadar kareeb aa kar bhee aap in jaghon ko dekhe baghair wapas chale gaye....
    Dear im Arshad Bhai, thanks for following the thread and your warm words of appreciation. I am not at all into comparing bikes now because I did all that prior to my purchase and now enjoy the one I have.

    I agree wholeheartedly that itna kareeb aa kar bhi in jagon ko na dekh paya. But do remember that my intent when I left Karachi was simply to make it to Naran and then head on back. Its only in Naran that plans changed and again on top of the mountain at Babusar Top the plan again changed to Astor. It was at the Army Check Post at Babusar Top that I first heard the name Astor and knew nothing about it whatsoever. But In Sha Allah if I ever have the time again I certainly planned to visit what I missed this time around and more.

    Keep enjoying the read.

    Sulaiman

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    Default At Rama Lake

    I drove down to the Lake and Parked my Bike and was walking around to take pics and realized the Argentinians began to drive towards me. When they reached me we stood and talked for a while longer.

    Its seemed they were looking for company and wanted to talk some more about various topics and on different subjects but I had already told them earlier when we initially met at the PTDC that I had planned on returning to Naran today so I was pressed for time.

    They understood and after a brief few more pics they took of us together in different poses with their camera they drove off once we said our goodbyes.
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    Default Heading back to Astor

    Once I took in the scenery and surroundings all alone and by myself I decided to head on back if I wanted to make it to Naran before dark.

    So I packed the tripod back, drank some water and then got back on the bike for the ride back.

    As I began driving back I then realized how secluded this place was. There was not a soul for miles now and I thought I have no fear other than from Allah (SWT) but many of those I know would have a panic attack in type of seclusion knowing no one is around and what if this happened and what if that happened.

    I also gave such ideas a thought but figured whatever happens I will deal with at that time but for the moment I have to appreciate what I do see and travel and enjoy the scenery.

    I tried taking pics of all the areas where I had trouble when I was coming up but soon realized it would be difficult since when I am parked facing down on steep hills the bike will not stand and just roll. So I decided to take what pics I could and gave up the idea of trying to capture the moments earlier.

    The last pic is at the bottom of that mountain which led me to Rama Lake. However, I was still at a very high altitude since I had to drive the next few kms over a plateau and then into the town of Rama which was a beautiful town of rolling hills and lush green plantations surrounded with beautiful snow capped mountains. It was Heaven as you will see in the next set of pics ahead.
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  11. #170
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    Amazing Trip ............ Beautiful Pics

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    And just for the info, In post #130 of this thread, the special flower plant you saw ahead of Naran is in fact potato plant.
    Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity... ~ John Muir

  13. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by dr.omair View Post
    Sir your adventure has been amazing!!!!!
    Please don't reply to people who are trying to argue with u for no reason. U chose to buy a bike from your own pocket, no one gave it to u for free.
    There are people here who are going to pick up a fight and destroy this wonderful thread. Just stop replying to them and u will be all good
    Couldn't agree more
    -

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sulaiman75 View Post
    ........

    I tried taking pics of all the areas where I had trouble when I was coming up but soon realized it would be difficult since when I am parked facing down on steep hills the bike will not stand and just roll. So I decided to take what pics I could and gave up the idea of trying to capture the moments earlier.............
    A tried-and-true hint: Parking using the sidestand, at an angle to the roadway with the handle turned such that it is almost at right angles, with the bike in first gear, is pretty secure.

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    wow!, what an inspirational thread, thanks for the lovely pictures and well written and descriptive posts. Threads like this one are an asset of this forum.
    “Have you ever noticed? Anybody going slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac”

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    Sir superb thread with beautiful pics & lovely narrations..
    I Love my GS 150

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    Awesome post...Masha Allah!

    There is also a motorcycle trip on PW from 2007/08 I think...some guy ride all the way from KHI-Quetta-KPK and back from ISL-LHR-KHI !!

    I am also planning a similar trip Insha Allah!! as soon as I get chance
    'Dilwalay' usually don't get the 'Dulhania' in real life.

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    you are doing justice with your efforts by putting a great write up!! i m really enjoying every piece of info followed by pictures.. you really got a skills to narrate your time spent so perfectly that someone really cant get bored for long readings, amazing!! just wondering if you were writing any diary at every point to keep things remembered? keep posting.. thx.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xoofi View Post
    And just for the info, In post #130 of this thread, the special flower plant you saw ahead of Naran is in fact potato plant.
    Thanks for pointing that out. I figured that out on my way back when I went through Naran and asked someone what was so special about these flowers, were they popluar in these areas for perhaps medicinal use or something? He responded with a smile saying these are Potato Plants.... I was amazed as I had never imagined how a potato grew other than they are dug out of the soil.

    But again, thanks for pointing that out.

    Sulaiman

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    Quote Originally Posted by VCheng View Post
    A tried-and-true hint: Parking using the sidestand, at an angle to the roadway with the handle turned such that it is almost at right angles, with the bike in first gear, is pretty secure.
    Thanks for the wonderful advice which I think can solve such problems for many other bikers reading this thread.

    You know, after reading your response I have trying to get my head around this and picture it but have trouble figuring out and the only picture I am getting is that we park our bike sideways as in perpendicular to the road, put it in first gear and then have the front tire turned to one side facing up the hill.

    Now that I think about it I am wondering if whether even what I just wrote makes any sense. Still can't figure it out. And then again, in Karachi its difficult to try this out due to lack of any real hills unless you go looking for them and there are a few but still, I first need to figure out how to do this. It would be very much appreciated and helpful if you could try an describe it in a different way.

    Thanks a bunch

    Sulaiman

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    Quote Originally Posted by farooq05 View Post
    you are doing justice with your efforts by putting a great write up!! i m really enjoying every piece of info followed by pictures.. you really got a skills to narrate your time spent so perfectly that someone really cant get bored for long readings, amazing!! just wondering if you were writing any diary at every point to keep things remembered? keep posting.. thx.
    Thanks for your inspirational response. As for having a diary, I actually never thought of having a diary to jot down all my daily travel routines but as I arrived in DI Khan where my relative Maj Hasan hosted my two wonderful days of stay showing their hospitality and I can't thank him and his family enough. Well he pointed out that I should have a diary.

    So right in his office we cute out some papers and stapled them together to make a small portable diary which could fit my front waste pouch. We sent someone to look in the store for a tiny diary but all they could find were a wee bit too big for my pouch. In that diary I pretty much kept notes of the distances & fuel costs in order to calculate my average consumption. I also kept a log of all my other expenses. The purpose at that point was to tell those I knew just how economical the tour could be if they chose to consider doing one in the future.

    However, everything I am writing here is coming to me as I look at the pics and then remember each moment. Naturally, there is much I have missed but the main points and each of the unique experiences I had are mentioned in my thread.

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