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Thread: Bike Tour Karachi - Kashmir, a futile attempt.

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    Default Bike Tour Karachi - Kashmir, a futile attempt.

    I had just come back on August 31st from an exceptional and a Memorable Bike Tour from Karachi to Naran and onward to Gilgit (Astor).

    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/roa...n-back-karachi


    I was thinking of posting my experience and wondered how to begin writing on PW. And as soon as I would open pakwheels page I would somehow begin to read other threads instead. I was suddenly inspired by a thread where a group went to Neelum Valley and Ratti Gali Lake around the time when I was taking my tour of Naran & Gilgit. So I never got to begin writing my experience and instead began wondering how I could do a similar journey on my bike.

    I enjoyed that thread so much that I simply could not wait to do a similar trip elsewhere and was searching for any opportunity to get at least 10 days of holidays in order to plan a trip to the North.

    Now this group had two or three jeeps and a whole lot of people. It was a group that did tours of that area I think. I am searching for that thread now and as soon as I find it I will ad the link so you know what got me going.

    They had pics of the valley and their journey that got me so hyped that I began to see where they went through and had another window of Google Maps open to see the direction, distance and names of towns and villages they went through.
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    What I Call Adventure .... Some May Call Insanity

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    Default I began Planning

    I began thinking how long it would take me to do the same as I would be on bike. I would look at the pics and compare the terrain to see if it could be done on bike. Naturally, they had posted pics of where they had trouble with their jeeps and I would look carefully and determine where the bike could and could not go. I just could not wait to get my tires dirty on that landscape.

    Ok, just found their thread :

    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/roa...edition-2013-a

    I got seriously looking into Holidays and came to a realization that there may be a week I could squeeze around Eid ul Azha. So I began a contingency plan just in case I could go. I did all the research on whether in that region during the month of October and looked into small towns in the area using Google Maps as well as exact distances, mostly from what they had posted on their thread.

    I did not indicate to anyone I had planned another trip so soon.

    I had made a final decision by the 9th of October that I was going to Kashmir and see Neelum Valley. I had decided this time however, that since I had already done the drive from Karachi to Islamabad in August that I would now book my bike by train to Pindi and then take it from there to Kashmir.

    Once again, I had not shared this plan with anyone just yet. Eid of course was on the following week and I my holidays had been arranged that I would be off from the following Mon - Fri and return to work on the Monday following Eid (Mon - Oct 21st). So I did the math and realized I had a total of 9 days which meant I had a very tight schedule.

    When I went to the Train Station to inquire about seating and my bike I was told that there was no way of booking a decent seat on the Train at this time and I should have booked weeks in advance. That was an eye opener for me. I figured then the only other option would be to go by bus. But for that I had to know when I could leave (Sat or Sun). So I began to prepare the bike for the journey once again but still was tied up at work and decided that this time I also need a bike license.
    What I Call Adventure .... Some May Call Insanity

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    Default FAILED My Driving Test for Bike License

    I had made a learners license prior to traveling on my last trip and now it was time to get the "Pakka" license done. I took Friday morning off for doing my test, so the day before ( Thursday morning) I went to the Licensing office in Korangi to inquire what was needed exactly for the permanent license so I can come prepared.

    I went on Friday all prepared along with my bike and all documents ready for the test. It was another experience altogether. As I went inside to pay the fee to upgrade my license one of the officers behind the counter said salam and asked when I returned from Naran. I looked at him and it took me a second to recognize him. He was the one I met, amongst other officers two months back when I had come to get my learners license and when they heard I had plans of traveling to Naran they thought I was NUTS. I guess the word got around and so he remembered me and asked if I had gone.

    I told him yes, I had a great time and I went all the way go to Gilgit. Initially, I had only planned on going to Naran so that is what I had told him when I was applying for the learners. It was only when I was in Naran that the plan to Gilgit was added.

    So he began talking to me about his experience when he went a few years back with his friends on a coaster and so on. When I told him I crossed Babusar Top to get to Gilgit Balistan in a matter of 7 to 8 hours he asked how that is possible since there is no way to connect from Naran and he only knew the way from the KK Highway which you take from Mansehra to Besham to Dasu all the way to Chillas and Gilgit staying on KK throughout. I told him there is a much shorter and direct route right from Naran.

    Anyways, while we kept talking about where I stopped along the way in Sindh, Punjab and so on the other guy who issued the receipt said I have to go to a different counter. So I went there and they give me a number or receipt of some kind and another officer came and said to just give him that receipt and follow him into a different room.

    I went there and there were lots of people and officers all around on different desks. The time came for my computer test where I realized I had to do nothing but sit in front of the monitor while two officers behind the desk did all the computerized test for me. This was new, I think they do that for everyone, but not sure.

    They said .... You Passed and may go now to get your pic taken. So I moved to another desk where they took my pic and sent me back to the main reception at the other end along with the receipt. The officer walked me through every stage and said that I now had to do the test outside where I have to do the zig zag test. He said they have no control over that since its on camera and being recorded and monitored and if my foot touches the ground at any time I will fail and will have to come again after 42 days to repeat that test.

    Then my name was called and I was instructed to bring my bike inside and drive to the back for the test.

    I did just that and the officer sitting under a tree at a desk instructed me to drive around the red cones and again said that if my foot touches the ground I will fail and again come back after 42 days. I started the test and it was very easy but by the last cone I was not able to keep moving since I slowed down to get my bike in line and around the cone and my foot touched the ground although I finished the test. I knew deep in my heart "FAIL" and just figured I will have to use my learners now, but no issue. I will be back and pass in 42 days.
    What I Call Adventure .... Some May Call Insanity

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    Default I Passed My Test !!!

    All of a sudden another officer ran from inside the building to the officer under the tree who had been conducting my test and then the testing officer said, "Chalen, ap ek bar phir try karen lekin is bar har cone k bad kafi door bike ko ghuma kar ain que k apki bike lambi or heavy ha". I was stunned as how was he giving me a second chance?

    Anyways, I restarted my bike, went back to the cones and began and passed with no problems. Then I parked my bike went to the testing officer, the other one had gone inside by now. I asked this officer why the second chance? He responded, "Vo keh rahay thay ap pura Pakistan ghoom kar a gai han to ab ham apko kese fail kar sakte han". I was stunned at the response and thanked him and went inside with another receipt.

    The officer who was escorting me at every stage came and asked me for that receipt and told me to just come on Monday at any time and he will have my license ready for me. I said that I am traveling on the weekend and will be in Islamabad by Monday, so I need it today. He said that's impossible, it will take two days. I said please find out if it can be done now. And he said he will find out.

    He came back in 5 mins and said we can do it under the "urgent request" and it will cost Rs 200. I said DONE. I handed him 200 and he left. In the mean time another officer came to ask if I would have chai or cold drink. I refused both as I was in a rush and had to get going. However, in another 2 minutes a waiter guy came to serve me a cold drink, I said I didn't order it and his response was "ye to saab ne bhejvaya ha". Now I had no idea who this saab was but at this point it was disrespectful to return a drink someone offers you.

    Before I was done half of my bottle the guy came with my license and asked me to come behind the counter to verify that my car license and bike license are now combined on one and can be seen online.

    I shook hands with them all and before I left one of them asked me to come back and tell them about my trip to Kashmir, I accepted and left. Quite frankly, I will go there some day to update them but really have not as yet found the time.
    What I Call Adventure .... Some May Call Insanity

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    Default Getting Ready for the Journey

    I had to get back to work and then it was Jumma Time so not much could be accomplished the rest of the day other than some packing.

    On Sat I decided to get a New Tire in the rear once again as well as a fresh oil change and check up of the bike. Then I drove to the Bus Terminals near Akbar Road in Sadar and was amazed at the fact everyone told me NO SEATS until after Eid.

    I went from door to door to each of the bus companies and got the same answer and it dawned on me that I have no alternative now but to drive all the way which I was avoiding at first since I knew that during the Eid week there would be too much traffic on the roads as well as Bakra Mandis along the road in every town and village I pass.

    I quickly went home, planned my route and printed out distances and cities which I had to cross which I would laminate in hard plastic and put on top of my gas tank as I had done in my previous trip. One side was for Karachi to Uch Sharif where I planned on stopping again. The back side would be from Uch to Islamabad.

    I didn't really need one from there since I would have other maps to deal with.
    What I Call Adventure .... Some May Call Insanity

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    Default Oct 13 - Sunday Morning - My Journey Begins

    I was all packed, all my belongings and bags were lined up next to the door. All I had to do was wake up at 2:30 am, get ready, load everything on the bike and load the last item which was a thermos full of ice cubes along with frozen water bottles.

    It was exactly 40 am by the time I hit the road in the morning on Sunday Oct 13th.

    Took the following two pics before mounting the bike at exactly 40 AM
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    What I Call Adventure .... Some May Call Insanity

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    Default

    We are hooked; yet again
    -

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    amazing trips sir. i am really impressed. its not easy to go so far that also on a bike. i have the same bike 2011 model decided many times to go on a short trip to interior sindh but never got the courage to do that.
    people need to grow up sometimes and act MATURE !

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    Quote Originally Posted by jadoon1992_vxlimited View Post
    amazing trips sir. i am really impressed. its not easy to go so far that also on a bike. i have the same bike 2011 model decided many times to go on a short trip to interior sindh but never got the courage to do that.
    Yes it was
    What I Call Adventure .... Some May Call Insanity

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    Quote Originally Posted by jadoon1992_vxlimited View Post
    amazing trips sir. i am really impressed. its not easy to go so far that also on a bike. i have the same bike 2011 model decided many times to go on a short trip to interior sindh but never got the courage to do that.

    Hahaha,

    Well Sir, this ended up to be a short trip as well as you will find out shortly if you haven't already guessed by now given the hint in the Title itself.
    What I Call Adventure .... Some May Call Insanity

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    Default Sindh Police RAID ....

    Reading through countless travel threads on PW I remember many posted mentioning that the Sindh Police are notorious for stopping drivers and asking for this and that, and just giving a hard time.

    So when I was getting my license on Friday prior to my starting my trip I remembered this time to also get a road rule book from the licensing office.

    Now I was perfectly planned for the drive and not at all worried of being stopped since I had all the required documents and original papers with me.

    I had again filled Rs 500 worth of petrol the night before until I cleared Hyderabad and then would fill up there for the long drive ahead.

    I began my journey in the wee of night at 4 am and was hoping to cross Hyderabad by 7 am, a three hour travel time as I had done in my previous trip. Now keep in mind it was pitch dark when I reached the Super Highway but to my surprise there was a fair bit of traffic on the highway. Mainly cars full of people and their pillows and sheets in the back window were visible indicating they were headed to their home towns for Eid celebration. It was a feeling I had not experienced in my last trip to see families and kids bundled up in the back seats sleeping away at this time of night. Naturally, I could not see through every car due to the blinders in some but the rear window was quite visible and their belongings indicated the purpose of their trip and my luggage on the back indicated mine as well.

    I was doing approximately 80 to 90 kms / hour in order to make good time ahead and allow for plenty of resting time in the afternoon so as to not face the same problem with Heat Stroke as I did during the last trip. In my last thread although I mentioned I drank plenty of water in order to keep hydrated, I forgot to mention where all the water was going as I was not at all going to the washroom along the way.

    What was happening, which I later found out through many discussions with people was that when you are driving although you may drink a good liter of water your entire body continuously perspires and in the wind your sweat immediately evaporates so you don't even feel that you are perspiring. Given the vast surface area of your entire body through which you perspire you lose a lot of precious water within an hour which far exceeds your intake of water.

    So in essence although I may have been drinking close to a liter ever one to two hours, I was evaporating a lot more and as a result eventually felt the Heat Stroke coming. So the advice I got and would like to pass on is that if at all possible, rest it out under a shade in the heat if you must travel or avoid it at all cost in the summer heat. If you must ride in the heat then make sure you stop every twenty minutes to drink as much water as possible to keep up with the water loss through perspiring.

    Now getting back to the drive ....

    As I drove past many cars, no bikes at that time, I would notice there every now and then a white powerful flashlight come on from the side of the road on the left side in the bushes as I could not see what was on the side of the road due to darkness. I had no idea who was pointing a light at me as I passed and at that speed was not about to turn my head behind me to look back and just kept my focus on the road ahead.

    I think it must be around 5:45 am when I noticed a fast moving blue Police Mobile on the opposite side of the highway rush to the center and cross over to my side of the highway ahead of me in the same direction and two officers with their faces covered with handkerchiefs hanging out the passenger side waiving me to stop. I quickly looked in my side mirror to see if any one was behind me because it could be they are stopping someone else. I saw no headlight behind me indicating there was no one other than me they wanted to stop so I slowed down immediately and stopped on the side of the road keep my bike headlights on full and putting it into neutral.

    My first thought when I saw this blue police mobile was "Money Hungry Sindh Police". The reason I did a quick mirror check was in the event I thought they are stopping someone else and I don't stop they may just end up firing a weapon.

    Before I could put my bike into neutral they were stopped ahead of me and three officers from the back jumped down and were standing in front with rifles. One asked said "Gari ke Papers dikhao" . As I began to open my front pouch for the bike documents another Officer asked, "Ap Pakistani Ho"?

    I was shocked at this ridiculous questions and was also a bit upset and figured this is not the place or time to take a PANGA with these guys. So I just answered in anger "Zahir Ha" !!!

    I gave them my bike document and then they asked for my NIC. I handed him that and had my license ready when they asked. The next question shocked me. "Ap kya kam karte han" ? I then got fed up and said "Ap ne muje Q roka ha?"

    He said "ap bohat tez ja rhay thay or hame peeche se wireless par batay ha k ek tez bike a rahi ha os ko roko. Ham ne aj raat do bikes chori ki parki han". Then I voluntarily handed them my license and said, "ye chori ke nahi ha or meri he bike ha".

    He asked again what I did for work, I refused to answer it saying, "me kya karta hu ya nahi karta is se apka koi matlab nahi ha. Ap ne mujhe shak ki bunyad par roka ha or ye bike chori ki nahi ha. Agay apka koi kam nahi me kya karta hu ya nahi karta."

    He asked then "Ap kahan se a rahay ho" Me - Karachi se. "Kahan ja rahe ho?" I chose not to answer, and said by pointing my hand forward to the road ahead "Vahan ja raha hu". He then asked "Ap sawal ka jawab Q ni de rahe?"

    I was already Pissed. I said "Ap ka ye haq nahi me kahan se a raha hu or kahan ja raha hu, meri chutyan han, me Eid mananay ja raha hu, mera saman peeche para ha, Or agay apka koi sawal nahi banta".

    He just handed me the stuff back and said "acha ap ja sakte han, ap ke papers sahi han , koi masla ni ha."

    I said "Masla ha, abi ap ne roka ha, agay ap k or bhai rokenge, mera lamba safar he" He said apko agray or koi nahi rokega, ap befikar rahen."

    Then I just had to ask, "Koi chori ki gari pakri bhi ya nahi"? He said "2 pakri, ek par to lady pechey bethi thi, ap soch b nai sakte log kya kya sochte han."

    That was the end of that and I was back on the road after a 5 or 7 minute stop. A bit furious but relieved it was over. But was thinking what LUCK? I didn't have a full license in my first trip and had a perfect license now. What were chances of being stopped in both trips? I just happened to be stopped in the second one when I had the license but was thankful to Allah (SWT) for getting me through this stop with ease.

    I stopped somewhere before Hyderabad for Fajar and a bit of water and then carried on by 6:15

    I came to stop at the very same petrol pump where I had fueled up on my last trip after passing Hyderabad. He didn't recognize me but when I mentioned my last trip and he suddenly remembered and asked how it went and if I was going there again? I said, no its to Kashmir this time. He wished me well and I was on my way.
    What I Call Adventure .... Some May Call Insanity

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    Default Breakfast Time

    After clearing the Petrol Pump just outside of Hyderabad I began to search for the place I had stopped during my previous trip to have breakfast. I looked over at each location for the resemblance of the same restaurant but after a while I gave up.

    I would go around turns on the highway and see a nice hotel I would have loved to stop at but was going so fast that it was too late to turn around from so far so I kept a look out for a place I could stop. I kept driving and kept seeing small places of which some were packed, while other small local hotels I felt I may not fit in and no need to attract attention.

    I finally came to a large Petrol Pump which I could see from a distance and began slowing down and as I came close I could see a decent type of local restaurant to the back which was empty at the time so I decided to pull over and have a break.

    I took some pics, one where I put the camera on top of the water cooler to take my own pic.

    After a good nashta I mounted the bike and carried on.

    Now I had already traveled this route so I didn't think I would see anything new and decided to limit my photography as I would need it for the second leg of my trip the following day from Uch Sharif to Islamabad since I was not sure if I would be able to charge the camera in Uch given the fact it was a Charpai hotel where I really wanted to stop in light of their hospitality during my last stop.


    Oh and one thing I forgot to mention in the beginning is that I had planned on roughing it in Kashmir so I wanted to get a tent. On Sat ( the day before I began my trip ) I picked up a tent after searching on OLX. It was a two man tent which was Rs 1800. I also had that tied along with me for the trip ahead. I would need it for maybe two nights in Kashmir as I wanted to camp and enjoy nature.
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    What I Call Adventure .... Some May Call Insanity

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sulaiman75 View Post
    Hahaha,

    Well Sir, this ended up to be a short trip as well as you will find out shortly if you haven't already guessed by now given the hint in the Title itself.
    hahahaha yes i guess i got it from the thread title .
    people need to grow up sometimes and act MATURE !

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    wow, another one.. i am sticky again!! anyway, nice and interesting conversation with police walas.. your straight answers did well

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    Quote Originally Posted by farooq05 View Post
    wow, another one.. i am sticky again!! anyway, nice and interesting conversation with police walas.. your straight answers did well
    Actually, I was very upset I got pulled over to begin with and then I was kind of concerned what they might do to give me a hard time but I was actually responding from instinct knowing full well it was not in their jurisdiction to ask me where I had come or where I was headed. So I believe I responded accordingly. I didn't want them to push me around so I spoke my mind and tested the waters where the conversation would head.

    In the back of my mind I knew that if this conversation went in the wrong directions I could make some calls and fix the matter there and then but I never ever like using contacts but when push comes to shove, you gotta do what you gotta do.
    What I Call Adventure .... Some May Call Insanity

  16. 12-12-2013, 09:15 PM

    Site Banned

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    Default Driving Through Sindh

    After breakfast I again hit the road and was booting it down the highway. It was a pleasant drive since although there were many on the road driving, there was this one car; a Toyota Mark X which was racing through traffic but the poor guy would always get stuck behind a truck or slower moving cars on the right lane whereas I would pass them all given ample space on the sides or just over passing them on the right lane.

    I would always keep an eye on traffic around and behind me using my side mirrors and made a practice never to change lanes or pass anyone without using my indicator.

    The Mark X and I stayed close to one another for quite some time and naturally, it being a powerful vehicle, would pass me and leave me far behind as it sped past 120 or even faster at times. I tried to stay within 80 - 90 km speed for safety. Now I would always catch up to him and pass him as he was stuck in traffic ahead, not that I was trying to race him since that was simply not at all possible. But for some reason it just turned out that we would pass one another, which lasted for a good two hours as we drove through Sindh. When approaching me he would always give his dipper (head light) for me to clear off the right lane when I was passing a vehicle such as a truck and I would comply as soon as I finished passing with a signaled lane change. What I appreciated about him was he never tried to rush me and always gave me ample distance and time to make my lane change.

    Eventually, we reached a clear highway ahead and he knew he would be long gone once he passed me for the last time. What kind of amazed me was that when he came behind me while I was passing a truck, he did not high beam or honk the horn and just waited for me to complete my overtaking and lane change which I would do without fail and always used the indicator. I also kept a constant eye on the traffic behind me for safety. Once I completed my lane change and came into the left lane, for the very first time after about two hours of traveling together he finally honked his horn as he passed by, hit his break to match my speed, looked over to make eye contact and then raised his left arm up and gave me a thumbs up with a big smile. I was stunned and in response also raised my left hand forward and gave him a thumbs up after which he sped up and vanished in a distance.

    That by far was the only experience that I had where I felt a driver on the road appreciated the road safety rules I applied while driving without putting others at risk, and most importantly never put my own self at risk. I feel its always important to be aware of all the traffic around you, ahead as well as behind because you never know what kind of crazy driver may be approaching.

    My experience was that the bus drivers and truck drivers were the most cooperative through out and always gave me a safe way out without putting me into a jam or a tight situation.

    I didn't take too many pics of interior Sindh since I had already passed it only two months back and had taken plenty during that trip.

    The first pic is of the many stands along the highway where they bake and sell fresh Mava or Kalakand. I think this is near Kherpur though not certain. Please correct me if I am wrong.

    In between I did stop for a drink where I took a few pics where you can see the bike with a field and shed in the background.

    It so happened that when I stopped I checked my mobile for any missed calls and decided to return the phone calls before driving on. As it was noisy on the highway and also very sunny, I walked down to the field and sat in the empty shed to complete my drink in piece as well as make my phone calls before moving on. In my heart I prayed for the person who had made this shed allowing others such as I, to take rest if needed during the long journey. I think my total stop time must have been around 15 minutes.
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    What I Call Adventure .... Some May Call Insanity

  18. #17
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    once again great trip sir,

    the narrations are exemplery and loving every moment of the trip...keep it going

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    Great.

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    Default Reached Uch for the Night

    During my last journey I had stumbled on this place at Uch which although was a simple Truck Stop, or better known as a Charpai Hotel, it was surprisingly beautiful and well developed.

    I therefore chose to make it again to Uch and make my first night stop at Uch which was exactly 780 kms from my starting point in Karachi.

    So after clearing Sindh in mid day due to heavy traffic, it took me a while longer to reach Uch. In fact after clearing Rahim Yar Khan upon entering Punjab I stopped at a large and well populated petrol pump where I prayed first and then noticed that in the back they had a small grassy lawn with a charpai set up in middle of the lawn. There was no one there so I brought my bike next to this garden and just walked over to the charpai, lay my red cushion for a pillow and just dozed off.

    Just before I went to sleep a petrol pump worker walked up discreatly and saw me laying there so I just looked at him and said "I am extremely tired, would it be ok if I rest for a while"? He said "jee bilkol koi masla nahi ha" and walked away.

    I was satisfied that there was someone watching at least so its a safe place. I had a deep sleep there for a good 45 minutes and when I awoke it was coming on to about 5:30 pm. I got up, went to wash up and then dug out the thermos full of ice and mixed it in a cup with the water from the bottle in my side bag and had a nice fulfilling drink.

    I though of taking a pic of the location but noticed there were too many people around at that time and figured it may not be appropriate for me to take a pic at this time.

    I got back on the bike and as soon as I came out of the petrol pump onto the highway, it was unbelievably packed with heavy traffic of all kinds and I had to fit into this traffic which moved around 45 - 50 km speed.

    By the time reached Uch, the charpai hotel I had intended on stopping for the night, the most wonderful thing happened. I parked the bike where there were many other bikes, mostly local as they were all 70 cc with no luggage. It was a busy time I suppose since there were many cars parked there too. As I stopped, kicked the stand out and took off my helmet, two men from the hotel of whom one I recognized from my last trip began to walk in my direction. One gave a big smile as he approached me and brought his hand out for a hand shake. By then the second man also came and shook my hand and a discussion began on how I was and how my last trip was and so on.

    I dismounted my bike and told them about my last trip and then asked if they could prepare a nice Karhai for me since I was very hungry while I went and offered prayers in the mosque in the parking of the hotel. They said just take your time and we will set up everything for you. They did however, ask me to move my bike inside towards where the veranda was as they knew I would be staying overnight and they wanted my bike to be in a safe spot in their view rather than leaving it in the parking, so I moved it to the veranda and was satisfied that I was in good hands.

    By the time I came to sit down they first brought me a nice cup of chai and said it will be another few minutes so just enjoy a cup of chai. I asked the person if they had any champi vala here and they said yes of course. It so happened that one of the persons working there whom I intitially thought was a waiter was in fact the regular Champi Vala malshi or a Masseuse as known in English. He was called by the waiter. When he came I asked if he was the regular masseuse there, he said yes. He said all the truck drivers who come here to stop for the night he provides massages for them and so he is here all night.

    I told him I was very tired and needed a good massage before I head off to sleep. He said, no problem he is here the entire night.

    I had a wonderful dinner and then ordered a fresh chai. Who I thought all this time was a waiter, he turned out to be the owner of the hotel. Well not exactly the owner of the hotel but rather him and his uncle had taken the contract to run the hotel, I am only calling him the owner. He came and spoke with me for quite a while and he said he was from Muzaffarabad. He was happy when I told him I was headed Kashmir and would pass Muzaffarabad. He said his village is 15 mins before Muzaffarabad so I must visit his village and he will give me a contact whom I can call and stay with. I assured him I will try to call but won't promise I would stay there as I have a very limited time for this trip.

    As I wasn't sure if I would have a chance of charging my camera battery I kept the photography at little as possible. From time to time the owner would come to speak with me in between other customers because during the next two hours while I sat and enjoyed two cups of chai while looking through the map for my next day's travel, two buses at different times stopped where people use the restrooms and ordered chai but not one stopped long enough for a dinner order. I think the entire stop was approximately a half hour.

    I later called the owner and requested a charpai set up for me and he said as its now getting cold during the night due to moisture he would set up a bed for me inside one of the rooms. He asked if I would sleep on a bed or would the floor bedding be sufficient. I told him whatever is set up I will take, no need to set up a bed for me and i would comfortably sleep on the floor. He said to just let him know when I was ready to sleep, and I told him right about now would be great because I first need a good massage.

    So he called the guy who was to massage me and asked to set me up in the room. I went with him and decided to take off my back pack from the bike while leaving all other items on it as it was safe. When I lay down I was already about to doze off but then this guy began the massage. My God, this guy was tiny, short but was he even a pro at massaging. This by far would have to be the best massage I have had in my life.

    I fell asleep shortly after he left and from time to time when someone like the owner or someone would walk in I would briefly open my eyes from the sound of the door.

    I had planned on waking at 4:30 am and leaving after nashta by 5 am. I was up and about by 4:30 and when noticed that the owner and another person from the hotel were also sleeping comfortably in the nicely set room on the floor to the other side of the room. I kept ever so quiet as not to wake them and came out to freshen up. I could see the cook in the kitchen and another one or two men walking about that worked there.

    I came after freshening up and asked if I could have a nice cup of chai and paratha. I was told the cook is mending the dough now and will have a paratha ready for me within the next half hour so just enjoy a nice cup of chai until then. I said if they could find the masseuse I would love to have another short massage before I left. The man said he must be sleeping in one of the rooms and they would get him.

    In the mean time I was enjoying my chai and just walking around and realized the place is empty now so it might be a good time to take some pics of the place, specially the beautiful mosque which was decorated with verious kalimaat all around on beautifully decorated tiles. Now was the time to take a few pics without offending anyone, before Fajar azan.
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    What I Call Adventure .... Some May Call Insanity

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    Hooked up once again, waiting for updates.. a bit slow this time but well worth the wait
    Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity... ~ John Muir

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