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Thread: Islamabad to Khanjerab.....31st July to 6th August

  1. #1
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    Default Islamabad to Khanjerab.....31st July to 6th August

    AoA,
    Hope you all are doing good with Ramadan.
    Bike trip from Islamabad to Khenjrab from 31st July to 6th August.
    After 2-3 times experiences on PW, this time we decided to make a concrete plan and members before to post it on PW, to avoid cancelation of programs again and again.

    So far conformed members are 4 (either anyone else joins us or not we are going )
    Departure: Islamabad at 6am on 31st July
    Arrival: Islamabad by 9pm on 6th August.
    Transport: Bikes
    Night Stays: Personal Camps
    Cuisine: Self Cooking + canned food.
    Estimated expense: 4000-9000 (depends on weather conditions if we can camp or not) [bike petrol + other expenses not included]

    .....EDIT.....
    Guys, we did returned back home on 6th of August. Here are few snaps, rest in continuing posts

    Members Left to Right
    Me with RP125
    Dr. Naveed with CD100
    Shakeel with CG125
    Azfar with Pridor
    Kashif with CD70
    Saeed with CD100

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1457850

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1471140

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1471139

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1471138
    Do it before you die.

  2. #121
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    We stayed there for about 30 minutes. Then we started journey towards Chillas.

    It was amazing scene that the Babusar Top was boundary between KPK and GilgitBiltistan. While in KPK region, I mean while going up, there was no sign of metaled road ahead of Lulusar Lake. But on GB side while descending..........aahhh. Tabeat khush ho gye, metaled road till chillas with some under construction patches.

    On the way towards Chillas, we stopped on a point, I don't know the name of place, for Samosa and Tea. It was raining and we all were packed in our rain suits when reached there. Hot tea was really refreshing for all of us there.

    And yes.......... what we experienced near Chillas, was quite abnormal for locals even. When we reached some 5-7 kilometers before Chillas, it started getting hot and mountains were really barren. What added up was, was a storm ! Sand Storm!! or better call it Stone Storm !!!
    Very very strong wind was blowing with sand all around, even small stone (better to call pebbles ) were blowing in the air. Sand every where and due to really strong impact of air, we all stopped here and there. Every one while stopping on some place was looking up barren mountains, if there was any chance of stones coming down from there due to this storm. My bike was not able to stand on single leg stand and I had to put my back stuck with it and hold with hands while sitting on road and taking bike as shelter. Sand even reached in our ears while we all were wearing helmets.
    When we reached Chillas, I asked people about the storm and they told us that they never experienced it in this area before.


    Here are some shots from @alonesam , I didn't bothered to open my DSLR bag in rain and then in sand storm

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461521

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461531

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461530

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    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461523

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461522

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461532
    Do it before you die.

  3. #122
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    Now here starts descending from 4rth Pic. We are in GB now
    again photography by @alonesam

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461533

    That was protection for dust and diesel fumes on climbing up.

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461534

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461535

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461536

    Kashif coming down

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461537

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461538

    Me taking turn

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461539

    A slight view of Sand storm

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461540

    Reached Chillas

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461541

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461542

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461543

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461544
    Do it before you die.

  4. #123
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    At Chillas. When we reached Chillas, Indus river welcomed us. We were again happy to see greenery after watching barren, dry and hot mountains for an hour. It was quite hot there too but atleast we could see plants , so we took off our raincoats and warm inners. Stayed there for 10-15 minutes. I again unpacked my DSLR

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461549

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461550

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461551

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461552

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461553
    Do it before you die.

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    Now next destination for today was Gilgit.
    We lined up on KKH and started our journey. KKH up to Raikot was not carpeted but was in good shape, we could touch 100 easily and safely. Way up Babusar Top set our mind to accept any kind of road that allows you to travel @40km/hr and up. So we were happy that we could travel fast now.
    Reaching Raikot changed our minds and thinking about road, that was carpeted metaled road up to AttaAbad Lake with not a single bump on it. I was loving that curvy road with almost null traffic. For me there was nothing more enjoyable than to take turns @ 90Km/hr without using brakes or lowering accelerator and turning left to right and then right to left.............miss you KKH

    I escaped a narrow robbery on KKH, which I tell you in next post.

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461556

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461557

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461558

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    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461567

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461568

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461569
    Do it before you die.

  6. #125
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    oh my ..... What happened! gLAD YOU ESCAPPED!

    Quote Originally Posted by ManMachineAdventure View Post

    I escaped a narrow robbery on KKH, which I tell you in next post.







    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/motorcycle-travel-diaries/277725-sober-riders-visit-khunjerab-adventurous-way-via-nori-pass

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    Quote Originally Posted by alonesam View Post
    @Sulaiman75 wese to mein 2 3 jaga gira slip and lack of riding skills :p but this was the one where i got injured (have pain still in ribs n lower back) and damaged by bike considerably... I first thought i slept while riding my bike on smooth roads of Nasirabad, Hunza while coming back but once i was home i googled and was amazed to find out you can lose consciousness due to sunburn... so that is what happened with me
    Sorry to hear of your ongoing pain from the injury. Now that's news to my ears that due to sunburn one may get drowsy or lose consciousness. Something to keep in mind.

    I hope you are feeling better soon, but from my experience these types of injuries take time to heal. So be patient and give it some time.

    Sulaiman
    What I Call Adventure .... Some May Call Insanity

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    Quote Originally Posted by alonesam View Post
    @Sulaiman75 Bonfire was done at Natlar Lake, and all them them were fallen dried woods from trees close by... there is no population that exist in that region so we gathered like arms full amount of wood n sticks :p

    where we camped in Jalkhad a group brought coals with them and that really helped us dry our stuff once they left :p so you can carry coal
    Thanks for your suggestion of carrying coal. I also had planned on carrying coal but was uncertain as to just how much will be needed since there may be a few stops overnight where cooking or bonfire will be required though we don't plan on cooking on a daily bases, just a two or three nights. The rest of our food will be from the local hotels.

    Islamabad to Khanjerab.....31st July to 6th August - close btn
    What I Call Adventure .... Some May Call Insanity

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    @Sulaiman75 sir plz be aware of weather if you are planning to go to northern areas... follow the weather forecast for your visiting dates......
    Start where you are. Use what you have. Do what you can.

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    Rather I will suggest you to delay for some time. Saturation of soil, gaining weight and sliding.
    Quote Originally Posted by Muhammad_Shakeel View Post
    @Sulaiman75 sir plz be aware of weather if you are planning to go to northern areas... follow the weather forecast for your visiting dates......
    Do it before you die.

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    I was not much interested in area upto Chillas.

    After Chillas, my routine was like this that I tried to be few miles ahead of others so that whenever I stop for photography, others may catch me and I may not left far behind. So I travelled faster than others. During photography, I usually took precautions for my safety from road, wild and other such.

    While few kilometers (~ 3-4 km) before Nanga Parbat View point, I stopped for a picture. I could see road declining and having a sharp turn ahead (First picture below). I thought I might be 2 Km ahead of others. As I took the picture, my camera's lens lid slipped from hands because of driving gloves and fell on road. I placed bike on single stand, in 1st gear to avoid free movement and got off the bike. At that moment I could hear a CG125's sound. I thought that might be Shakeel catching me up. But when I bent down for picking lid, I realized that sound was from front. By the time I lifted lid and sat back on bike, that 125 was near me. Due to the sharp turn ahead, I could not see him well before.

    He stopped just beside me, he had a pillion and asked me who I am and where I was going. Their eyes were checking me and my saddle bag. I just replied him that "we" are going to Gilgit. Listening to this reply they talked with eachother in some local language, which I could not understand. The driver said some thing and nodded his had backwards, while the pillion also said something and nodded his head forward.

    As they stopped near me, my 6th sense was telling me that something is going to be wrong. And their gesture was proving it for me atleast. Talking in a language strange to me also added it up. I instantly decided that either I should engage them in talks until others catch me OR I should do something on my own. I realized that ignition was already on, bike was in gear....... I just needed to push the starter button while holding the clutch and I am gone...

    And before they finished their local language talks, ...................I did it and I was gone..............Thanks to Ravi Piaggio's Self Start. Later I saw in back mirror they just took half turn and then went straight forward, leaving me.

    When I took that sharp turn ahead, I can see few more bikers approximately 800meters ahead standing by a Van.

    My Analysis After Incident
    1- I did a real stupid movement, if they had firearms, RP can not run faster than that.
    2- What they were talking in local language and nodding heads forward and backwards "might be" that they were talking to eachother saying that "his fellows are ahead near van" with nodding head backward ( since they were coming from that side and they saw bikes there on way ) and the other saying that "he may have fellows behind him" with nodding head forward to them.


    Anyways, at that moment this action seemed me ok and I did it ( though now I think I was crazy).

    I didn't stopped near that van and stopped near Nanga Parbat View point. Later I realized that other members were far behind me, because they were also busy with snapping on the way. They reached there after 25 minutes. Only Kashif on CD70 reached there after 10 minutes, since he was not using camera. So the idea of engaging them in talks would not have worked.

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461815

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461816

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461817

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461818

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461819

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461820

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1461821
    Do it before you die.

  12. #131
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    Thanks Vicky Bro, I escaped but yet I am not satisfied with my decision, if it was wise or not.
    At the moment this decision was possible and actable given those circumstances, environment and state of mind.
    Quote Originally Posted by vickytulla View Post
    oh my ..... What happened! gLAD YOU ESCAPPED!
    Do it before you die.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Muhammad_Shakeel View Post
    @Sulaiman75 sir plz be aware of weather if you are planning to go to northern areas... follow the weather forecast for your visiting dates......
    Will certainly be following the forecast very closely.
    What I Call Adventure .... Some May Call Insanity

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    Quote Originally Posted by ManMachineAdventure View Post
    Rather I will suggest you to delay for some time. Saturation of soil, gaining weight and sliding.
    Unfortunately, the dates have already been finalized due to work schedules and holidays.

    So this trip has to happen during the dates planned for unless there is another issue such as the political unrest and road closures.

    But we will manage our destination and travel plans within the North accordingly
    What I Call Adventure .... Some May Call Insanity

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    I am posting the video of Chilas Dust/Stone Storm, video is getting processed by vimeo right now :p

    Bikers have THREE Things in life that They can never turn Their backs on
    -The Motorcycle -The Family & -Respect

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    Great !!! Well done ......

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    very nice decsion ManMachine... I would have made a mistake to stop and confront.... very good decsion ...
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/motorcycle-travel-diaries/277725-sober-riders-visit-khunjerab-adventurous-way-via-nori-pass

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    what I learn from this is to stay with the pack ...
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/motorcycle-travel-diaries/277725-sober-riders-visit-khunjerab-adventurous-way-via-nori-pass

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    Default Amazing

    very interesting tour and thread aswell, awsom.

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    We all stayed at Nanga Parbat View point for some time. It was getting dark. Started journey again and reached Jaglot. On the way Azfar's bike got punctured and was loosing pressure constantly. Stayed there for puncture and then moved about a kilometer and stopped on Total petrol pump.

    There another story started We started encountering petrol shortage from here. Shakeel was almost empty by then. Total and Shell had no petrol available and we were told that petrol ahead is also not available.

    I an Naveed, headed back to see if there is any petrol pump in Jaglot or if there is any shopkeeper having it in bottles. Luckily we reached PSO and there petrol was still available. Man told us that its about to finish, so I called them all to PSO and we got filled as much as we can.

    Now 2 members were still on Total Petrol pump. So when we reached them back, they were discussing about the situation ahead with some bikers coming back from Khanjerab. They told us really horrible stories about the glacier near passu and situation of petrol. They told us that their petrol was stolen in hotel and also he showed his left leg injured while crossing the glacier stream. Members were really terrified and I could read their faces saying, we should not go ahead.

    Analyzing situation, I had 2 issues as group leader, Petrol and crossing of stream. They were scared of streams, because they haven't encountered any such yet just few nalaas while towards Jalkhad and it is part of any tour and especially for off roads in Northern area. I knew I could nullify it to some extent by crossing it early in the morning, since at that time water level is low due to less melting of ice at night's low temperature. Other issue was Petrol, that was a problem. I had in mind that if situation stays same, we could park 3 of our bikes in hotel by taking out petrol and putting that petrol in other 3 bikes. And so we could hit Khanjerab and come back by pillion riding.

    Impact of narration by that group was so much that half of members were not even listening to me, so I had to be strict and raise my voice. For me this was insane that with what you have in tanks, you can not go back OR towards Deosai, so you have to wait for petrol in any case. Given in these circumstances, why to ruin our original plan...... Anyways, they agreed to reach Gilgit and then see situation.

    We reached Gilgit, at about 9:30 pm. Petrol situation was same there. In Gilgit, city, it was not possible to camp, since being city and reaching there very late and in dark we could not have any decision about location of camp. We took dinner and started looking for hotel. 2000 for double bed, it was average rent there. I found one off the road and he was asking 600 for a double. I bargained with him for one room @900. Plan was to accommodate all by using our sleeping stuff and save money, since I was not sure about petrol situation in coming days and wanted to save resources. Those guys at Jaglot were telling that if you are lucky, sometimes you can find petrol @ 200/lit.

    That hotel had some shops beneath and we parked bikes there and went straight into bags.
    Do it before you die.

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    Default Day 3

    Next day we all woke up quite early.
    We had a change in plan for today. Rather than going towards Hunza, we moved towards Naltar Valley. This valley was on return route as per planning but due to petrol situation, I changed it. Idea was that going towards Naltar will give us a day more to wait for Petrol. It was not like this that petrol was unavailable at all by then. Problem was that it was not going to be better. Thinking of 2 days after today was real issue.
    Before leaving Gilgit, everyone had some tasks and fixes. Azfar needed his saddles to be fixed, Saeed wanted his LED fixed, Shakeel was also looking for some thing and I was looking for flasher for my indicator, which got burned last night.

    Meanwhile in market while buying some eatables, we spotted some strange fruits and thought of trying them. The one I picked and asked about its name........ hehehe it was Fig, "Anjeer". Infact none of us ever had neither its fresh taste nor ever seen. The shopkeeper asked us to taste it and while having first bite, I ordered 1Kg. Every one was happy to taste fresh fig, we in Punjab always use it as dry fruit.

    Within city, Petrol was not available, but as we came out of city on KKH, we could spot a petrol pump with petrol available. Now here was the first mistake by some of members. Rather than keeping their tanks full, they just thought that only 1-2 liters may have been consumed by then, so no need to refill.

    Anyways, last nights travel was in dark, so we don't knew the beauty of area. But now we were enjoying. Every one was running since it was little cloudy day. We decided to have breakfast on the way.

    Here are some images before breakfast.

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1462776

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1462777

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1462778

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1462779

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1462780

    Islamabad to Khanjerab31st July to 6th August -1462781
    Do it before you die.

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