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Thread: 40 days, 7000+ kms - extreme hiking. Camping, biking & soul refreshing sightseeing

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    Default Completed 45 days, 7000+ kms - Camping, Biking & Soul Refreshing Sightseeing

    Assalam-o-Alikum to this exceptional community of riders here on Pakwheels.com


    BARE WITH ME THROUGH THE FOLLOWING PARAGRAPHS as I'm quite bad at writing and narration. Though I have formatted the whole post in apparent headings, so that everyone can jump to their part of interest directly. But, I humbly request GURUs atleast, to go through whole stuff as I being un-experienced and rookie in the field, do need their guidance.

    PROLOGUE
    A little introduction of myself would be helpful for me and the PW community (which i'm sure is going to guide me in light of their experiences throughout this soul refreshing trip, from planning upto execution and in-transit phases).

    Natively from Muzaffarabad, Azad Kashmir. School life spent in Islamabad upto Matric. Collage life spent in Lahore. Then moved to Karachi in 2001 after joining Pakistan Navy (Aviation) and living here ever since, though I do visit Islamabad, Muzaffarabad and Lahore atleast once a year, but its just a routine exercise which hardly contain any adventures.

    Exploration is something in my blood, which got buried deep down while living a typical military, tech savvy & married family life, bla bla bla, (hopefully UPTILL NOW) and biking is my passion since teenage. Whenever I got a chance to combine these two passions i.e exploration and biking I did so in form of short trips, sometimes with family and occasionally alone. (although nothing as compared to what the PROs of this community have accomplished so far).

    STORY BEHIND THE IDEA

    Last week somehow my passion resurrected from ashes as a result of a little conversation with my wife, "Honey (that's my nickname) AMMI (my mother) ki tabiyat ub kaafi behtr ha, kuch plan karain kahin ghoomnay phirnay ka". (My Mother, yet recovering from serious illness, the illness that pushed our whole family to saturation limits during last 02 years). I thought, "Yes, our body, minds and souls need a major overhaul and we should do something to accomplish this, so as to prepare ourselves for the forthcoming adversities. As soon as I felt the heat from ember, I decided to fuel rather than smother it. Therefore, started to explore the web, Google Maps + Earth and Panoramio etc. Subsequently, the ember grew to a blaze, and I STARRED all the POIs on google map, for the yet pretty vague expedition i was thinking about (Believe me it's quite difficult to escape from routine family & married life's thousands of "IF & THENS", Our major concern yet is how to cater for in between RAMAZAN month) and shared my insensible plan with my wife. It was quite shocking for me when she frowned for a second in bafflement and said, "Let's do it by God, Lets get mad".

    MISUNDERSTANDING

    Well, when I first thought of the trip (plz be patient, I will elaborate it in ensuing paragraphs), it was my misunderstanding that I am planning to do something like freakingly crazy (whatsoever) of my life, so I shared my thoughts regarding the tour with my Brother in Law [/B] @abdulkarim[/B] (one of my best friends) who is kinda adventurer himself, (contrary to my expectation) he encouraged me, even agreed to try to join me and suggested to visit the Pakwheels forums for guidelines.

    PAKWHEELs Here I am with my Jaws-Dropped, Eyes Popped

    I instantly jumped to the forums (30 April 2015 at about 9pm) and viola.....since the moment I have gone thru about 30 or so threads in biking section from very first post to last (nonstop with hardly 4 hour sleep in two days straight). As much as I am reading, and seeing pictorial experiences shared by PW adventurers, the stronger is my enthusiasm getting. By now the blaze has out-grown to HELL FIRE, means we are going to pull it off like "Now or Never", by any means and at any cost.

    THE EXPEDITION PLAN - 40+ DAYS, 7000+ KMS - EXTREME HIKING. CAMPING, BIKING & SOUL REFRESHING SIGHTSEEING

    THE EXPEDITION THAT's GOING TO PUSH OUR PHYSICAL AND MENTAL STRENGTH, OUR WILL POWERS OUR CONSISTENCY & DETERMINATION TO ACUTE LIMITS.

    "An Adventure does not justify the definition of Adventure, until it shoves you beyond your limits" - Hammad Mustafa :-D (just came into my mind while convincing a cousin to join me for this trip, as he was bringing up thousands of "IF and Buts")

    Enough of boredom for u guys. It's time to share my tour plan with a request for all the guidance, suggestions, corrections, criticism, appreciation, buck ups and advices, from gurus of adventures and exploration here at PWs, which is the major reason to write everything in such pain-staking details:

    Participants (so far)

    a.Myself - Age 31 years (Smoking since last 15 years has badly affected my fitness, so consider me 50 years old.....lolllz)
    Starting point of tour : Karachi on GS150
    Biking Experience:
    oKalaam Festival 2012 from Islamabad to Kalaam on Yamaha Vmax 1200 with my Brother in Law and CarCraft members from Islamabad, (me, my Brother in Law and couple of other guys, couldn't make it upto Kalaam and returned from Bahrain - quite long story, will tell u guys any other time).
    oRawalpindi to Muzzaffarabad via Muree road & Motorway, Bhurban & Aliot both sides, plenty of time on CD70, GS150, CG125, China made 70s.
    oMuzzafarabad to Neelum Valley upto Lawat and back in one day round trip on CG125
    oMuzzafarabad to Thandiani (Via Raara, Pattan Kalan) to Abbotabad to Mansehra to Muzzafarabad round trip in one day on CG125.
    oPlenty of biking to surrounding villages of Muzaffarabad District, which include some 4x4 only tracks.

    b.Shoaib Sadiq - Age 25 years (First Cousin)
    Starting point : Karachi or Islamabad on GS150 or CG100 respectively.
    Biking Experience:
    oA few short biking trips to surrounding villages of Muzaffarabad District, which include some 4x4 only tracks and ZalZal lake in Chakar on CG125.
    oAlready visited the Naran Valley and most of Kashmir except (Neelum Valley) in quite detail, though not on Bike.

    c.Aamir Lodhi - 29 years (Friend)
    Starting point: Karachi or Rawalpindi on GS150 or CG100
    Biking Experience:
    oKarachi to Lahore trip on CD70
    oNo mountain terrain biking experience at all.

    d. @abdulkarim - 32 years (Friend & Bro in Law)
    Starting point : Islamabad, GS150
    oKalaam festival tour 2012 on Kawasaki Z10R.
    oPlenty of tours to Muree, Kallar Kahar, Jehlum, Bahawalpur, Faisalabad on GXR1000 and Z10R ( there must be a lot more, but these are the few ones I know about).

    And at last, with extremely high spirits, courage and practical support by being desperate to ride throughout with me, to make this trip, the lifetime memorable event, not only for me but for our coming generations too.
    e.My Wife - Age 29 years (Mother of our two heavenly kids).

    Starting point: Karachi or Lahore
    Bike Riding Experience:
    oShe rode with me to certain villages of Muzzafarabad District plenty of times, which include some rough mountain terrains and to Muree surrounding areas.

    ITINERARY

    First Leg / Tentatively starting from 1st June 15.
    Karachi to Sukkhar (666 Kms) Via
    Haleji Lake to
    Keenjhar Lake to
    Manchar Lake to
    Talti Lake to
    Sehwan Shrif to
    Dadu to Moenjodaro to Sukkhar(Night stay here).

    2nd Leg / 2nd - 3rd June 15
    Sukkhar to Lahore (780 kms)

    Night stay somewhere in between or 02 Nights at Lahore (if we could make it to Lahore from Sukkhar in one long-hauled ride).

    From Lahore an old friend TAYYAB BASHIR is joining us (on his Vitz) with Family for our 3rd and 4th Legs only. My kids would also be with me from here onwards.

    3rd Leg / 04 or 05 June 15.

    Lahore to Muzzaffarabad (410 Kms) Via
    GT Road to
    Muree Motorway to
    Bhurban to Muzaffarabad.

    with 6hrs or night stay at Rawalpindi.
    (From here @abdulkarim will join us on his GS150).

    4th Leg - Muzaffarabad - Taobat - Muzaffarabad (07 June to 12 June). (410 Kms)

    07 June - Muzaffarabad - Jagarn Resorts - Kutton Resorts (82.5 Kms) (Night stay here).
    08 June - Kutton to Kel - Arrang Kel - (80.4 Km) (Night stay here).
    09 June - Kel to Taobat - (Noon) (41.2 Kms) (02 Nights stay here).
    11 June - Taobat to Muzaffarabad - (205 Kms) (Night stay here).

    After 4th Leg one night rest at Muzaffarabad. Will be Saying goodbye to Lahori Jigrot Tayyab Bashir for his journey back to Lahore. I can't insist him to go on further Legs with me as he don't drive Bikes and from Naran onwards his full family loaded automatic vitz cannot keep up with the tough terrain. Moreover, he has already visited Naran couple of times with his friends.

    5th Leg - From 13 June (137Km) (3 to 5 days at Naraan-Kaghan Valley depending upon how soon we cover all the lakes)

    This leg is going to be the toughest one as we have to hike for almost every lake visit, so will try our best to clear from Naran prior to starting of RAMAZAN. Please Guide me with such perfect plan so that i may complete this leg and visit all the lakes in shortest possible time.

    Muzaffarabad to Naran to Jalkhad (197 Kms) Via
    Garhi Habibullah to
    Balakot to
    Payee Lake to
    Shogran to
    Kaghan to
    Naran to
    Saif ul Malook to
    Jalkhad to
    Lalusar Lake
    13 or 14 June - Saiful Malook and Ansoo Lakes.
    14-15 or 15-16 June - Dudipatsar Lake, Sat Siri Mala Lakes, Yasmin Lake, Lalazar Lake.
    16 or 17 June - Nooritop Lake, Lalusar lake (and leave for Gilgit - Baltistan the same day - if possible)

    6th Leg - Lalusar Lake to Gilgit via Deosai, Skardu & Gilgit - (601 Kms approx) (16-22 June 15)

    I am dividing this leg in small sections, each separated with night stays and with minimum distance travels per day i.e at much slower rate so that we don't get fatigued in an effort to be able to "Fast" while travelling, when Ramazan starts. (This is going to be a true challenge that we travel and fast simultaneously. It cannot be ruled out that we might have to skip certain 'Rozay' (May Allah forgive us, though we will exercise Qaza Rozay for skipped ones after Eid, Insha'Allah")

    Section - 1(178 Kms) Lalusar Lake to Raikot - (on 16 or 17 June) -
    (Night stay here).
    Section - 2(Fairy Meadows to Raikot to Rama Lake).
    (Night stay here).
    Section - 3(82 Kms) Rama Lake to Sehosar Lake and Deosai Planes - (on 17 or 18 June)
    01 Nights stay here.
    Section - 4(67.4 Km) Deosai Planes to Satpara Lake to Skardu. (on 19 or 20 June)
    (Night Stay Skardu)
    Section - 5(87 kms) Skardu to Shigar Fort to Shangrilla Resorts. on (20 or 21 June)
    (Night stay here)
    Section - 6(186 Kms) Shangrilla to Gilgit, on (21 or 22 June) - (Night stay here)

    7th Leg - Gilgit to Kunjraab Pass to Gilgit - (22 or 23 June to 27 or 28 June)

    Now this is the leg for which i need real guidance from PakWheelers, as this route contains about 20 or so places to visit. I want to cover each and every place in 4-6 days. Please provide me with detailed itinerary i.e where to visit and when, date wise (with suggestions for night stays, preferably camping).

    8th Leg - Gilgit to Shandur via Phundar Lake (203 Kms) / 28 or 29 June (Night Stay at Shandur)

    9th Leg - Shandur to Kalaash Valley (197 Kms) / 29 or 30 June (Night Stay at Kalaash)

    10th Leg - Kalaash to Kalaam - Mahodand Lake (274 Kms) - 30 June or 1st July DEDICATED TO @Spasha sir.

    Well for this leg we might skip ROZA. coz its going to be the toughest one as explained by @Spasha sir.[/I]. We will try to reach Mahodand Lake straight and night stay there, if couldn't, will stay for night at on the way rest house or Kalaam.

    11th Leg - Mahodand Lake to Muzaffarabad via Khawarzkhela - Besham City - Mansehra (357 Kms) 1st or 2nd July

    AAAAAAAHHHHHHHHhhhhh..........Finally I'm gonna see my Kids after 20 or so days and stretch my legs for 02 days, While our Bikes will be going through a major servicing and tuning procedure.

    A short trip to ZALZAL LAKE before leaving on Back to Karachi journey.

    Return Journey to Karachi

    12th Leg - Muzzafarabad to Rawalpindi - (253 Kms) 5th or 6th July Via

    Muzaffarabad to Thandiani
    Thandiani to Abbotabad
    Abbotabad to Terbela dam
    Terbela dam to Khanpur Dam
    Khanpur Dam to Rawalpindi (via Margala Hills Road, Sadhu ka Bagh) - Night stay at Rawalpindi

    13th Leg - Rawalpindi to Banjosa Lake to Toli Pir (Rawalakot) to Mangla Dam (Mirpur) - (297 Kms) - 6th or 7th July
    (Night stay at Mirpur)

    14th Leg - Mirpur to Kallar Kahar Lake to Khabikki Lake to Uchli Lake to Namal Lake to Chashma - (357 Kms) - 7th or 8th July
    (Night Stay at Chashma)

    15th Leg - Chashma to Karachi (1167Kms) 8th or 9th July (with stopovers in between as and when required)

    I have to reach Karachi on 10th July by all means as i have to Join my duty on 11th July.

    I am enlisting the Change Log for the plan in post #16, in light of the inputs from the PW community and my ongoing further research for the tour.
    Attached Images Attached Images     
    "An Adventure does not justify the definition of Adventure, until it shoves you beyond your limits"

  2. #41
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    Finally reached Lahore one day later than planned. Bahawalpur stay was excellent, received at bypass by @jigzKorner Sannan at 2300hrs on 31st May who guided our way to Cantt area, see-offed me n begum there and took Aamir n Shahbaz with him to his home.

    I must say the Pakwheel and other biking communities are helping us out every where with great hospitality.

    Next day had rest till eve as day was bit Hot, went to Noor Mahal in eve then to Garrison Park then to Desert Inn for dinner. @jigzKorner Sannan stayed with us the whole evening till late night. Came back to guest rooms at Cantt and slept with aplan to leave after Fajar Prayers for Lalsuhana National Park and then to Vehari.

    It was about 0325am when I woke with severe pain in stomach. I took it lightly and stay laid hoping it will go away. 15min passed, no relief, I looked for my medical box and took the respective medicine and waited for relief. Again 1hour passed with no change in situation. So I left my room at 5am and rushed to CMH Bahawalpur Nearby. Got detained, doctor diagnosed me with food poisoning and administered the treatment and advised me to get admitted. Now that was the nightmare coz if I had got admitted, a signal had been generated to my Unit in Karachi and my leave would have been expired right that moment, the concequences were severe for my planned trip so I humbly requested the doctor to dont admit me but keep in detention instead, till I get bit better. I told him about my trip too. So he kept me in detention till 10am, by then I felt bit better, pain was gone but weakness was immense. I came back in room and slept for 3hrs after taking couple of banana and apple.

    By 1400 hrs I was quite better therefore hit the road again for Vehari direct skipping Lalsuhana National Park. Program was to have lunch at Vehari and off for Lahore but yesterday's stomach ache and weakness didn't allow, resultantly stayed for night in Vehari too.


    Next morning the weather was excellent, for Lahore section. Started at 0930am from Vehari, stayed for couple of hpurs at Harrapa on the way. Got bit problem with my bike i.e. missing above 80km/hrs. On Sahiwal Bypass saw mega suzuki service centre and decided to get the bike checked. I must say that waz the most pathetic experience of my journey so far. Poor customer service and inhuman behavior shown by the Manager of Sahiwal Bypass Suzuki Service Centre. Going to complain for his unprofessional Treatment soon.

    At Okara Bypass encounteted extreme sand storm which reduced the visibility on road to Zero so we parked at nearby Gas Station and waited for storm to pass, as it was proving difficult for us to even handle our bikes straight. About 45min later roads got cleared and we got back on em. Temp reduced quite unexpectedly even I felt the need for sweater on bike. Astonishing for me as never faced such weather in Punjab in June, lollz. Recahed Lahore at about 2000Hrs. Tayyab was there to recieve us.
    "An Adventure does not justify the definition of Adventure, until it shoves you beyond your limits"

  3. #42
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    Welcome to Lahore!

    Sorry to hear your food poisoning thing. I think you should try to avoid spicy food and good thing is, you will find less spicy food in northern area because they don't use much spice in their foods.

    Jerking after 80 seems because of current problem or plug issue. is it solved or not?

    We plan with our minds and Allah plans what is good for us or what we could remember after our journey either its a hurdle or pleasure of nature. This is called true adventure.


    Quote Originally Posted by hammad.mustafa View Post
    Finally reached Lahore one day later than planned. Bahawalpur stay was excellent, received at bypass by Sannan at 2300hrs on 31st May who guided our way to Cantt area, see-offed me n begum there and took Aamir n Shahbaz with him to his home.

    I must say the Pakwheel and other biking communities are helping us out every where with great hospitality.

    Next day had rest till eve as day was bit Hot, went to Noor Mahal in eve then to Garrison Park then to Desert Inn for dinner. Sannan stayed with us the whole evening till late night. Came back to guest rooms at Cantt and slept with aplan to leave after Fajar Prayers for Lalsuhana National Park and then to Vehari.

    It was about 0325am when I woke with severe pain in stomach. I took it lightly and stay laid hoping it will go away. 15min passed, no relief, I looked for my medical box and took the respective medicine and waited for relief. Again 1hour passed with no change in situation. So I left my room at 5am and rushed to CMH Bahawalpur Nearby. Got detained, doctor diagnosed me with food poisoning and administered the treatment and advised me to get admitted. Now that was the nightmare coz if I had got admitted, a signal had been generated to my Unit in Karachi and my leave would have been expired right that moment, the concequences were severe for my planned trip so I humbly requested the doctor to dont admit me but keep in detention instead, till I get bit better. I told him about my trip too. So he kept me in detention till 10am, by then I felt bit better, pain was gone but weakness was immense. I came back in room and slept for 3hrs after taking couple of banana and apple.

    By 1400 hrs I was quite better therefore hit the road again for Vehari direct skipping Lalsuhana National Park. Program was to have lunch at Vehari and off for Lahore but yesterday's stomach ache and weakness didn't allow, resultantly stayed for night in Vehari too.


    Next morning the weather was excellent, for Lahore section. Started at 0930am from Vehari, stayed for couple of hpurs at Harrapa on the way. Got bit problem with my bike i.e. missing above 80km/hrs. On Sahiwal Bypass saw mega suzuki service centre and decided to get the bike checked. I must say that waz the most pathetic experience of my journey so far. Pathetic people, pathetic customer service and inhuman behavior shown by the Manager of Sahiwal Bypass Suzuki Service Centre. Going to complain for his unprofessional Treatment soon.

    At Okara Bypass encounteted extreme sand storm which reduced the visibility on road to Zero so we parked at nearby Gas Station and waited for storm to pass, as it was proving difficult for us to even handle our bikes straight. About 45min later roads got cleared and we got back on em. Temp reduced quite unexpectedly even I felt the need for sweater on bike. Astonishing for me as never faced such weather in Punjab in June, lollz. Recahed Lahore at about 2000Hrs. Tayyab was there to recieve us.

  4. #43
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    Alhumdu'lillah, completed Neelum Valley leg. The most beautiful place in Kashmir, The Arrang Kel, heaven on earth undoubtedly.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    "An Adventure does not justify the definition of Adventure, until it shoves you beyond your limits"

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    grate trip.......
    GO__ HONDA __ GO

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    Wah wonderful
    He Who Is Not Courageous Enough To Take Risks Will Accomplish Nothing In Life....!
    Muhammad Ali

  7. #46
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    It was our third day in KPK regarding our all Pakistan Bike tour. We were planning to stay and explore here for 5 to 6 days but became, eager to leave this area as soon as possible. Hence, reached back to Muzafarabad leaving rest of the places alone without visiting. Moreover, all the lakes are frozen except saif ul malook and LuLusar. Babusar top is yet closed with no expectations to get opened anytime soon.

    Here are the reasons:

    144 on camping from Balakot to Babusar including Saiful Malook .

    Generally bikes are exempted from tolls, but we paid ₨ 50/ bike for entering into Naran. Rate was 100-200 for cars and up. First of a kind tax in Pakistan as far as I know.

    No one is allowed to go for saif ul malook or Lalazar after 5pm.

    No one is allowed to stay at Saiful Malook for night.

    Government representatives are everywhere to ruin your tour with different instructions and restrictions as if you are visiting some military cantt area.

    People are very ill mannered just like their ill mannered Leader

    Grocery, bakery or eatables *are 300 cent more expensive than normal rates. (To give you an Idea, we spent ₨ 30000 from Karachi to Arrang Kel and back Muzaffarabad on the other hand This only leg costed us about ₨.19000)

    No one is allowed to pass Batakundi or Jalkhad max after 5pm, means if you are near any of these points you have to either go back to Naran or stay in any Hotel at Batakundi or Jalkhad at their desired room fares.

    There is not a single board at entrance of Naran to notify about these restrictions, neither you will find them on Internet. That's the hypocritical system of governance in KPK. That's how tourism is being promoted here.

    At least I will never even think about visiting KPK tourism points in my life again.

    The PTDC has vast area for camping but they don't allow to camp too.

    Very bad and sick experience. This is the CHANGE

    However, notwithstanding above, the only good thing in this leg was the best offroad biking experience, between Shogran and Siri-Pae, (Although not a family place to visit, because no water to drink or for other use, you have to buy water for all purposes at quite high rates)

    Amir Lodhi and Maya Bhai both decided to leave for Karachi from here, since Naran-Kaghan leg has disturbed the budget quite badly. Gonna miss u guys.
    "An Adventure does not justify the definition of Adventure, until it shoves you beyond your limits"

  8. #47
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    Mr. Hammad Mustafa! Please keep your postings strictly for your travel diary and avoid making political statements against political parties and leaders.

    Moderator! I would suggest that you delete Mr. Hammad Mustafa previous posting as it is against Pakwheels policies and issue him a warning.

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by wak786 View Post
    Mr. Hammad Mustafa! Please keep your postings strictly for your travel diary and avoid making political statements against political parties and leaders.

    Moderator! I would suggest that you delete Mr. Hammad Mustafa previous posting as it is against Pakwheels policies and issue him a warning.

    Thanks
    Noted and Edited accordingly. That was all my experience Though, nothing political, neither I have to do anything with politics. Please go through my first post, will get the reason, me being non-political. Moreover, I do have the right for pointing out the good as well as the bad experiences I am facing throughout my travel, in my own thread, either due to people or governance in areas Im going through. Some will agree with me some will not.
    "An Adventure does not justify the definition of Adventure, until it shoves you beyond your limits"

  10. #49
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    Good Going bhai!
    I am sure you will be relieved once you will enter Baltistan. The people over there are much better and kind. All the best of your tour (y)
    "Value has a value, only if its value is valued"

  11. #50
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    Sad to hear your bad experience in Kaghan valley. Naran has known as very expensive place to visit but now a days most expensive place because of holidays.

    144 on camping??? Why so much security issue? Has any incident happened there or what?

    Vehicle entry fee??? This is ridiculous like these people de-Promoting their areas. Never heard and experienced this issue.

    Not allowing night stay at Saif-ul-Malook???.. Recently one of my FB friend with his friends have visited Anso Lake I am sure they stay night at Saif-ul-Malook one or two weeks ago.

    Anyway, don’t give up and move to Gilgit Baltistan and enjoy high mountains and colorful Hunza, highest plains, highest Skardu desert etc.
    You have lot more corners to explore….. Stay calm, happy, safe and enjoy your adventure.


    Quote Originally Posted by hammad.mustafa View Post
    It was our third day in KPK regarding our all Pakistan Bike tour. We were planning to stay and explore here for 5 to 6 days but became, eager to leave this area as soon as possible. Hence, reached back to Muzafarabad leaving rest of the places alone without visiting. Moreover, all the lakes are frozen except saif ul malook and LuLusar. Babusar top is yet closed with no expectations to get opened anytime soon.

    Here are the reasons:

    144 on camping from Balakot to Babusar including Saiful Malook .

    Generally bikes are exempted from tolls, but we paid ₨ 50/ bike for entering into Naran. Rate was 100-200 for cars and up. First of a kind tax in Pakistan as far as I know.

    No one is allowed to go for saif ul malook or Lalazar after 5pm.

    No one is allowed to stay at Saiful Malook for night.

    Government representatives are everywhere to ruin your tour with different instructions and restrictions as if you are visiting some military cantt area.

    People are very ill mannered just like their ill mannered Leader

    Grocery, bakery or eatables *are 300 cent more expensive than normal rates. (To give you an Idea, we spent ₨ 30000 from Karachi to Arrang Kel and back Muzaffarabad on the other hand This only leg costed us about ₨.19000)

    No one is allowed to pass Batakundi or Jalkhad max after 5pm, means if you are near any of these points you have to either go back to Naran or stay in any Hotel at Batakundi or Jalkhad at their desired room fares.

    There is not a single board at entrance of Naran to notify about these restrictions, neither you will find them on Internet. That's the hypocritical system of governance in KPK. That's how tourism is being promoted here.

    At least I will never even think about visiting KPK tourism points in my life again.

    The PTDC has vast area for camping but they don't allow to camp too.

    Very bad and sick experience. This is the CHANGE

    However, notwithstanding above, the only good thing in this leg was the best offroad biking experience, between Shogran and Siri-Pae, (Although not a family place to visit, because no water to drink or for other use, you have to buy water for all purposes at quite high rates)

    Amir Lodhi and Maya Bhai both decided to leave for Karachi from here, since Naran-Kaghan leg has disturbed the budget quite badly. Gonna miss u guys.

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    Its my 2nd rest day at Muzaffarabad. Got bit eased from bad experiences of Naran leg. Getting my energies regained for further legs. As two of my fellows Amir Lodhi and Shehbaz have returned for Karachi, im left alone to complete the rest of tour.

    My wife is also unable to join me as my 5 years old son has got quite disturbed due to our frequent and long absence, which he is not used to. A step ahead, he protested through quite disturbing strategy to make us stop, lolllz, by refusing to eat anything for 3 days straight, during our Neelum and Naran Legs. Therefore my wife decided to leave rest of the legs. Another reason for him being touchy is that My wife had quite bad accident from bike with kids couple of months back, when her Abaya stucked in rear wheel and she fell on road at Shahrae Faisal. That incident left quite bad psychological effect in my son's memory, resultantly he doesn't Allow his mother to ride anymore.

    Now, me being solo am quite concerned about security issues of Kohistan, which I was going to skip if Babusar top had opened. Second and more disturbing issue is that I have very very bad habit of loosing things. To give readers a glimpse, uptil now I have lost all of three sports water bottles pictured in post above (1st at Khairpur, 2nd at Sharda, 3rd at Naran) , two mobile phones, one nokia (left at Ghotki Petrol Station), one HTC (dropped from zipper bike mount, as forgot to close the zip), one of pro bikers gloves, another pair of Gloves, right side tapa of bike and the most silly thing, I left shopping bag (rain preventive measure, lollz) which contained all of money, cnic, service cards, medical cards and bike docs at Naran hotel room, thanx Allah before leaving for Saiful Malook I realized it and rushed my cousin to hotel where he found it under my pillow. Now if I lost that much being in company of three including my wife, God knows what I would do when alone, ha ha ha.
    "An Adventure does not justify the definition of Adventure, until it shoves you beyond your limits"

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    For tomorrow im going to do a short leg of about 100kms, from Muzaffarabad to Chakar, Zalzal Lake, Sudhan Gali Meadows and thrn to my native village Bugna for night stay. Lets see how are these areas of Kashmir, yup never been there before.
    "An Adventure does not justify the definition of Adventure, until it shoves you beyond your limits"

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    Sorry for your loos but you must remain attentive & sharp minded while your tour. Bhai, Agar isi terha cheezain bhultay rahay to kaheen bike khari ker k hi na bhool jana LOL…

    As you said you left alone for your tour. I would like to suggest something (but decision is yours). If you are considering your adventure as a challenge then you should be very strong and be ready for obstacles known or unknown. And if you are considering your tour as to explore beauty of our country, to feel it and enjoy the moments deep into the nature then I would not recommend you solo ride. You must have company with you. Wo muhawra to suna hi ho ga “1+1=11, aik or aik gyara hotay hain”. Sath bhi rahay ga, enjoy bhi ho ga, problem easily solve bhi hon gi or qudrat k nazaray daikh ker apas ma views bhi share hoon ***.

    Most important reason is why I would not recommend you ride ahead. You should assess the problems in your tour completed so far like you have lost your mobiles, gloves, bike side cover, bottles. You faced security restrictions in Kaghan valley. Your tour mates left. Your wife can’t go with you ahead. You have security issue in your mind at kohistan to go to gilgit. Babusar is closed. If I asses these events happening one after another whether minor or serious, I would consider it as a message from Allah who is stopping you to travel ahead. I don’t know but may be going ahead is not in your favor at this time. Allah knows better!

    Please don’t think I am discouraging you but this is what I think you should consider before starting ahead.

    Stay safe & Ride safe


    Quote Originally Posted by hammad.mustafa View Post
    Its my 2nd rest day at Muzaffarabad. Got bit eased from bad experiences of Naran leg. Getting my energies regained for further legs. As two of my fellows Amir Lodhi and Shehbaz have returned for Karachi, im left alone to complete the rest of tour.

    My wife is also unable to join me as my 5 years old son has got quite disturbed due to our frequent and long absence, which he is not used to. A step ahead, he protested through quite disturbing strategy to make us stop, lolllz, by refusing to eat anything for 3 days straight, during our Neelum and Naran Legs. Therefore my wife decided to leave rest of the legs. Another reason for him being touchy is that My wife had quite bad accident from bike with kids couple of months back, when her Abaya stucked in rear wheel and she fell on road at Shahrae Faisal. That incident left quite bad psychological effect in my son's memory, resultantly he doesn't Allow his mother to ride anymore.

    Now, me being solo am quite concerned about security issues of Kohistan, which I was going to skip if Babusar top had opened. Second and more disturbing issue is that I have very very bad habit of loosing things. To give readers a glimpse, uptil now I have lost all of three sports water bottles pictured in post above (1st at Khairpur, 2nd at Sharda, 3rd at Naran) , two mobile phones, one nokia (left at Ghotki Petrol Station), one HTC (dropped from zipper bike mount, as forgot to close the zip), one of pro bikers gloves, another pair of Gloves, right side tapa of bike and the most silly thing, I left shopping bag (rain preventive measure, lollz) which contained all of money, cnic, service cards, medical cards and bike docs at Naran hotel room, thanx Allah before leaving for Saiful Malook I realized it and rushed my cousin to hotel where he found it under my pillow. Now if I lost that much being in company of three including my wife, God knows what I would do when alone, ha ha ha.

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    Absolutely right @RizwanMir bhai. Im also thinking on same lines. Thats y didnt moved ahead for further legs. I was waiting if I could arrange for someone to join me. Lets see what comes ahead.
    "An Adventure does not justify the definition of Adventure, until it shoves you beyond your limits"

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    Default Rest Day at Muzaffarabad

    Last three days I spent with my son Ammar. Took him to a park at river Jehlum bank on Chakothi Road, little outside Muzaffarabad.
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    "An Adventure does not justify the definition of Adventure, until it shoves you beyond your limits"

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    This is an excellent thread! (Y)

    @hammad.mustafa
    It will be nice if you share one picture per post, will be easy for us to quote/reply, also easy for those who have slow net connection.
    Thanks.

    Try using "Uploading Images ? Try our easy image replies" on top of quick reply box.
    Formerly known as Libra. Founder Pakwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Libra View Post
    This is an excellent thread! (Y)

    @hammad.mustafa
    It will be nice if you share one picture per post, will be easy for us to quote/reply, also easy for those who have slow net connection.
    Thanks.

    Try using "Uploading Images ? Try our easy image replies" on top of quick reply box.
    Got it dear. Good suggestion. Will edit the previous posts accordingly.
    "An Adventure does not justify the definition of Adventure, until it shoves you beyond your limits"

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    Default Muzaffarabad - Sudhan Gali Leg

    Then on 17 June 15, me, my wife and Ammar explored a different and long route to our village, Bugna.

    Left from Muzaffarabad at 11am on Chakothi Road towards Garhi Duppatta. Excellent carpeted road with lots of development along, regarding Neelum-jehlum Hydro Power Project. On this road at Majhoi there is other end of tunnels that start from right across my village.

    Then from Hattian took right on Chakkar road, pretty bad road but repairs in progress. Stopped for 15 minutes on a small road side shop for refreshments. The shopkeeper was very hospitable person. Offered us cup of tea which we passed humbly. Crossed Chakar and moved on to Sudhan Gali road.
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    "An Adventure does not justify the definition of Adventure, until it shoves you beyond your limits"

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    This road is also under repair work with lots of mud and dirt tracks on the way. But thick Pine forests on this road upto Sudhan Gali kept us fresh.

    Stopped for sometime at view of remains of ZALAZAL lake on Chakar-Sudhan gali road. This lake was formed naturally during 2005 Earthquakes. In 2010 a landslide diminished its area, otherwise before then it was big enough for 11 boats which were operating in it for tourists. Now there are neither tourists nor boats.

    Sudhan Gali is known for highest peak in the area, The Ganga Choti and Meadows surrounding it. The view of Bagh District from here is exceptional.
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    "An Adventure does not justify the definition of Adventure, until it shoves you beyond your limits"

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    We tried to get on top of Ganga Choti through under construction road, but due to stoned soled road didn't took the risk, as there is high probability of tyre punctures on such roads.

    There is beautiful Motel here named Benazir Palace, rooms are exceptionally well decorated with american style attached washrooms. It was empty though due to off season and approaching Ramazan, had cups of tea there, rested and enjoyed beautiful scenery from its lawn.
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    "An Adventure does not justify the definition of Adventure, until it shoves you beyond your limits"

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