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Thread: Crash Course: Visit to Deosai & Rama

  1. #1
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    Default Crash Course: Visit to Deosai & Rama

    Disclaimer: Its a Crash Coarse because we crashed like ever 30 minutes after we entered Baltistan.

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1628346

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1635512

    Last month I shared a thread to ask professional bike travelers to know if we can visit Deosai and which route would be best bet and we did really got an excellent plan sorted out thanks to PW Senior member who guided is so good.

    Beside the Sober riders league The plan attracted to newcomers this time, one was my university mate (kashif khan) and the other guy was @angel82's university mate (Salar) who noticed our "bike only" tours and both were fully geared up to taste it this time.

    Every body applied for annual leaves a month before the plan and prapred there rides, as we had very "High Voltage" feedback on the condition of the trek specially in astore and skaurdu from @imranbhatti saahb...

    I my self was in the highest stress as I was taking the newly imported Trail for the first time and I was totally uncertain about its quality/stabilty e.t.c..

    In the meanwhile we learned that MAP Bikers Club has the Meetup on same date when we will cross Islamabad so we added that to list as well.

    Riders:
    1 - @pirates [Nouman]
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1628347

    2 - @RocketScience [Khurram]
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1628348


    3 - @ammarzahid [Ammar]
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1628349

    4 - @mqsdrana [Rana Sahab]
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1628350

    5 - @kashi.khan
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1628351


    6 - @salargilani

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1629455
    7 - @vickytulla (ME )
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1628353


    5th Sept - Left for Khajot PTDC - Attended the MeetUP and Continued to Mansehra and made a night stay there.
    6th Sept - Reached Chillas and made a night stay there.
    7th Sept - Reached Rama and made a night stay there at PWD Rest House
    8th Sept - Reached Chashma/ Chilum Chowki stayed on the road side shelter.
    9th Sept - Reached Deosai wandered whole day and reached Skardu and stayed night there.
    10th Sept - Went to Shiggar Valley and came back to Jaglot and stayed for night there.
    11th Sept - Came Back to Balakot and stay night there
    12th Sept - Came Back to Lahore
    13th Sept - Lambi tan kay neend pori ki..
    14th Sept - While going to Office totally hating the Diesal engulfed Lahori Roads.

    Few Snaps:

    Shoesar Lake
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1628358

    Marmot Alarming others on our arrival:
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1628359

    Rama Lake:
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1628356

    The AMAZING KKH:
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1628355

    The Killer Mountains - Nanga Parbat:
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1628357

    The Lonely Road and 7 Petrol Heads in heaven:
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1628354

    I will be sharing the route and locations which we visited / missed, it was an adventure of a life time, but it wasn't enough, I will be heading there again and again... that place way more beautiful then I actually anticipated, and I know it will call us again and again...

    It was like to much beauty ... this time we even took less pictures and gazed towards Allah creation more, because you keep staring at the scenic beauty but you cant get enough and don't get bored easily.

    InshAllah Allah nay zindagi or moka de, har saal North jaien ***.
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/motorcycle-travel-diaries/277725-sober-riders-visit-khunjerab-adventurous-way-via-nori-pass

  2. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by vickytulla View Post
    @Silver_Knife ye imran sahab kiya bheed khol rahay hain ... ha h ha h h ha h ha

    wesay is trip men humara bhi aik bacha Molvi sahab k dil per cha gya tha balakot men... @RocketScience @mqsdrana ... aha ha h ha ha ha h ha ha
    Baat to sach hai, pur baat hai ruswai ki

  3. #182
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    Default Chota Pani also known as KALA pani ... and amazing weather...

    At kala pani there was Forest officer Iglo and I suppose they also had space for campers to camp there for night stay.

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1635994

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1635993

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1635995

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1635996

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1635997

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1635998
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/motorcycle-travel-diaries/277725-sober-riders-visit-khunjerab-adventurous-way-via-nori-pass

  4. #183
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    Default BARA Pani: Brown Bear Terrotory starts.

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1636009

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1636008

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1636002

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1636004

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    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1636003

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1636010

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1636005

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1636007
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/motorcycle-travel-diaries/277725-sober-riders-visit-khunjerab-adventurous-way-via-nori-pass

  5. #184
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    Amazing Trip and beautiful clicks.

    Regards,

  6. #185
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    very Nice..... Loving it.......
    Winning is not every thing .... its the only thing

  7. #186
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    very Nice

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    Default BARA PANI - Part II

    Bara Pani is kind of a central Focal point of visitors and has a

    1 - camping sight a Camp
    2 - Tea and brunch hotel
    3 - Forest Officers Office
    4 - Army Post
    5 - First Aid Clinic

    Not to forget that beside it is the core "Secured" area where tha last resort of Himalyan Bears is left.. a decade ago only 19 bears of this clan were left, but thank to Balti people and International orginazation that now there number has crossed 45+ and increasing.

    Most of the "Bear Sighting expedtions" use bara pani as there base camp before going deep into wilderness to sighting a bear ...

    Forest officer told that he would take 45k per person to take a 7 day expedtion into deep Deasai wilderness to spot wild life there including markhor, bears and other animals..


    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1636843

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1636844

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1636845

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1636846
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/motorcycle-travel-diaries/277725-sober-riders-visit-khunjerab-adventurous-way-via-nori-pass

  9. #188
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    Default BARA PANI Part III - The Dance Party on the roof of the earth

    While we were taking sips of hot tea and crunching crackers we notices a jeep full of young lads wearing funny caps and football shorts, and fleet shoes, (some were in shalwar kameez too)

    The came and stopped at bara pani and they were comming from skardu side..

    They had a foot ball and all of the instance the hotel and the Check post was a foot ball ground.. and we were like WTFISH...

    All the calm and quiet and relaxed mahool of that beautful place was "KAPUT" ...

    Icing on cake was that when they got exhusted banging the ball her and there they pulled out a DHOLKI out of a jeep went near the water stream sat down like they are about to start a bon fire.. and loudly starting beating the hell out of the dholki..

    I and other many visitors were looking at them with strange eye thinking "You got to be kidding me...really ??"

    And then thos boys started to dance in there local balti style in a circle..

    That day I learnt what I always heard as an Idiom..

    "Jisky pass jo cheez nahi hoti wo usko trasta hai or usko he dhondata nazar ata hai..."

    we were there to have quite, non noisy, less polluted, relaxing moments.. were as locals are down with quiteness, and "non noisiness" of wilderness and looking for party..

    They danced like for an hour there and eventually the tourist started to enjoy there unique dance as well...

    Its a pitty I dont have any picture of them becuase by that time our Camera guy was already having a severe head ache and I gave him medicine and he was passed out on grass.. (@rocketscience) and all other including me were too busy watching those balti young boys dancing the hell out of the dholki...

    We asked the tea maker ther ethat how far is skardu from here he said its a short distance it might take an hour or little more..

    We asked is the track ahead same tough as the one where we are comming from he said .. "Oh yeah its a piece of cake if you compare to the track from where you are comming from.."

    It turned out to be a Big lie for us.. there was absolutly no road at all for next two hours or brutle offroading.. and few of our riders made high jumps again and again ..



    Camp Sight of Bara Pani#

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1636917


    Ahead of Bara Pani the Track became even worse.. but the scenic beauty Doubled...
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1636926

    Shooter @ammarzahid and his girlfriend GS150
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1636915

    I stopped to get slar out of water and when the goup guys all left I was mesmerised by the veiw around and smoked a complete *** untill it started to cnow.. the vastness is so much that i was clearly able to spot area with sunlight while I was under snow fall...
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1636927

    The GS and the wilderness
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1636916


    Water stream... no trout fishing aloud at all
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1636918


    Lets get Lost.... Oh I just love recalling how relaxing it was...
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1636928
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/motorcycle-travel-diaries/277725-sober-riders-visit-khunjerab-adventurous-way-via-nori-pass

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    فیر کی ہویا ؟؟؟؟
    :::: The World Is A Book and Those Who Do Not Travel Read Only One Page ::::

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    Default Decending to sadpara Lake, crashes and a near mis to big loss

    Quote Originally Posted by ibn.rizvi View Post
    فیر کی ہویا ؟؟؟؟
    @ammarzahid was leading us and staying ahead while every one was going behind him and I was on the tail of the group but the road condition from bara pani to Sadpara lake was a total pile of debris... and sheer down hill, I did not started my bike and save a fuel as I was comming a long way with small Dirt Bike feul tank and now Bike was on reserve..

    Guy on piaggios and GS had enough feul though.

    any ways decending down was a night mare specially as we were losing visibilty, we stopped at a tea hotel on the way and took tea and boiled eggs..

    Those local Young lads whom we saw at BaraPani were also comming back on there jeep and stopped there to have some food one of the guy then finally came to us an introduced himself, and we shared our tour as he was interested.

    he also told us that the road is very poor but near sadpara it will get paved but still we wont be able to over speed becuase of very sheer decend and deep curves.. he was right.

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1637741

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1637742

    After sadpara, there came a couple of land slides which ate the road completely and as it wsa pitch black we nearly missed sliding into stones @salar.gilani totally gave up looking at the situation and @pirates rode his bike and crossed the tough areas..

    at one spot I was ahead with ammar and when I all of the sudden faced the land slide area.. I was frightened as it was dark and had no idea what ahead of the next stone which I am about to climb..

    so after crossing the land slide I and ammar started waving... "Salar ko agay mat anay dena .. salar ko agay mat anay dena " ... the @kashi.khan aimed his HID light on the land slided area and then one by one each of the bike and rider crossed it...

    Dude that was hell of an experience.,.. lol
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/motorcycle-travel-diaries/277725-sober-riders-visit-khunjerab-adventurous-way-via-nori-pass

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    Default Reaching Skardu, and a near mis to big loss - PART II

    We thanked god that every body safely crossed the dangerous part and now we have the paved road ahead of sadpara vilage.. now we all were travelling together as there was no room for mistake in night.. and

    "Kaput" Our test pilot slipped from sand on road... and laughing that he escaped the hard part and slipped from sand ...

    Finally we reached Skardu and stoped at an unkono interchange (chowk) may be some one remembers its name or have a picture of it ? @ammarzahid @kashi.khan and others ??

    while we received the cell phone signals back instantly every body stated to receives pending sms and call..

    In the very moment @RocketScience was trying to get comfortable he placed his DSLR on a side pavement to strach his arms a little.. while we were trying to locate a friend in skardu who was arranging accomodation for us..

    as we were relaxing we got his call and he guided us to reach a hotel were he made accomodation for us... so we quickly moved to that hotel..

    on reaching we found out that it wsa one of the finest hotels "snowland" in front of PTDC and has luxury rooms which he made available for us almost free..

    first guy to take warm bath and refresh was @RocketScience and then one by one we all refreshed.. @mqsdrana inquired who wants to dinner.. i said if dinner is comming I will eat in bed dont ask me to leave this bed.. "NO SIR I AINT GOING ANY WHERE" ha hahha hah ha ha

    then we all pulled out our action cams and cell phones and started sharing pictures with family on whatsapp as internet was availble too and share with each other..

    Finally a million $ question was asked.. "Khurram bhai ap DSLR nikalain zar pictures tu check kerain"

    Ye kehny ki der thee k kjurram sahab k rang purple ho gya saying "wo tu udher pavement per he reh gya... @kashi.khan and @ammarzahid without further talking a word left the room and fired up the bike and rushed toward the same place..
    while I was stunned learning that we have lost a camera worth a mehran car.. i wsa thinking that let the boys come back with sad faces as its been 3 hours when we left that place... and it was rushy by that time it a 0% chance that we found it ...

    I went to washroom splashed my face with water thinking in very stressed situation.. that we might cancel our further plans and go back..

    in the very moment I heard the YBR approaching back @kashi.khan ybr has a after market exhaust).. I quickly went to balcony and did noticed he was carrying some thing.. and when he came upstair dancing on his tows I understood that camera was found..

    No body toched it.. it was there and I still dont understand how it did not got into attention of any body... Bas Allah pak nay karam kiya.. werna humari tu saron ki bati chali gaye thee

    Then hum sab nay khurram sahab ki dhulaye ki or unsay party bhi khaye..
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/motorcycle-travel-diaries/277725-sober-riders-visit-khunjerab-adventurous-way-via-nori-pass

  13. #192
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vickytulla View Post
    Bas Allah pak nay karam kiya.. werna humari tu saron ki bati chali gaye thee

    Then hum sab nay khurram sahab ki dhulaye ki or unsay party bhi khaye..
    Our group is famous in losing cameras. Remember the Soon valley trip when Hafiz left my camera in the ATM

    then you and @7thgear trolled me and Hafiz combined.

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    That was epic trolling but is dafa to baj *** tha sabka band...

    Quote Originally Posted by angel82 View Post
    Our group is famous in losing cameras. Remember the Soon valley trip when Hafiz left my camera in the ATM

    then you and @7thgear trolled me and Hafiz combined.
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/motorcycle-travel-diaries/277725-sober-riders-visit-khunjerab-adventurous-way-via-nori-pass

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    @vickytulla

    I do remember that i drove ( i flied the ybr like jet fihgter ) i took camera from that chowk and i was on way to back to hotel and i saw ammar and khurram on GS150 i just waved them and rushed backed to hotel

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    Quote Originally Posted by angel82 View Post
    Our group is famous in losing cameras. Remember the Soon valley trip when Hafiz left my camera in the ATM

    then you and @7thgear trolled me and Hafiz combined.
    That's why I keep my camera as an extension of my hand :-D Never separate it from yourself..
    Web: http://www.bikepics.com/members/sniperr and http://wanderersbook.blogspot.com

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    خوش قسمتی ہے کیمرہ والے بھائی کی
    :::: The World Is A Book and Those Who Do Not Travel Read Only One Page ::::

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    Default Shiggar Valley and Shiggar Fort

    Quote Originally Posted by ibn.rizvi View Post
    خوش قسمتی ہے کیمرہ والے بھائی کی
    Bilkul bhai sahab .. Allah nay karam kiya bas werna humny tu zahan tyar ker liya tha k gya camera.


    The very Next day it was a splendid morning, and I dried my wet clothes which got wet last day in deosai when I got stucked in water stream..

    Had an excellent breakfast and packed up for Shiggar valley, heard about blind lake, ambrique mosque and Shiggar fort so planned to visit it, the road to shiggar is mesmerizing specially after crossing sindh and the might desert... it feel like riding on a runway - Bikes go red line but still seems to crawl in the midst of a sand wilderness...

    First we reached the Ambrique Mosque it is surrounded by village ambrique all people who live there are "aghakhanis" and the mosque it self is first aghakhani mosque and a Muslim monument in skardu

    Then after spending some time there we went for Shigar Fort and was largely disappointed... The fort doesn't exist practically, its just a Private hotel under the Serena chain and embodies it self as a private residence, its kind of a "Invitation only" stuff, there was absolutely no guidance, reception, parking or any thing.. and we were in a middle of shiggar town and had no clue where is the actual "FORT"

    because we know fort has barricades, strong walls, bigg doors... but nothing was there beside a Serena hotel which actually looked like some ones home withe a car parked out side and no "Hotel related" parking either

    got really really pissed and did not even bothered to stop there for a minute... Hotel ki chaye he peeny hau tu Pakistan bhara para hai.. That was really Stupid and a waste of a timne.. we would have gone to Khaplu, kachura or Shangrilla for gud by then.,..


    Going towards shiggar
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1637994

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1637995

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1637996

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1637997

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1637998

    Crossing the River ..
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1637999

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638000

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638001

    The Ambrique Mosque#
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638002

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638003

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638004

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638005
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/motorcycle-travel-diaries/277725-sober-riders-visit-khunjerab-adventurous-way-via-nori-pass

  19. #198
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    vickytulla's Avatar
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    Default The Lousy Shiggar Fort and Skardu Desert

    Another ambrique mosque like monument spotted which was deserted and getting rotted..
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638007

    We wandered the streets of shiggar to find the fort but no where to be found..
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638008

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638016

    Then I spotted this board.. where some body removed few words from "Parking" ... but then I thought if this is a parking where no car is parked no gaurd or a no actual fort is around then where is the fort this is just a plot in the middle of a village full of crazy kids who are waiting to snatch some thing from bike and run... we cant park our rides here... we started to ask if this is a parking then where is fort the guided that its still few streets ahead.. it was like "old bani bazar" of rawal pindi or should say baghban pura of lahore..
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638009

    The after going ahaed for some time some local boys stopped us and told us the street is closed and we should go back... "What the FUSH " and the told that hum fort rasty men miss ker aye hain...

    We went back this time we started to check and knock every door untill we reached this house... DAM* IT ... A FUSHING HOUSE ..... What a waste of day.. they did not had any one on door to answer or any body to ask if its a fort.. the only thing written on its door was "Shiggar Fort Residence" ...

    We were so pissed that.. we immediately planned to retreat.. and started journey back to skardu..

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638006

    Bikers looking at a blind lake - Dried
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638010
    @ammar riding up back from blind lake
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638011

    salar posing
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638012

    khurram caught in act
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638013

    Dirt bike in desert
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638014

    salar posing in front of skardu desert
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638015

    The Desert
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638019

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638018

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638017

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638020
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/motorcycle-travel-diaries/277725-sober-riders-visit-khunjerab-adventurous-way-via-nori-pass

  20. #199
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vickytulla View Post
    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1637741

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1637742
    We witnessed the Satpara Lake at same point in daylight ...

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638312

  21. #200
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    Default

    brilliant it looks so beuatiful in daylight.. but when we crossed the same place it was feeling like a haunted jungle..

    Quote Originally Posted by c4soft2 View Post
    We witnessed the Satpara Lake at same point in daylight ...

    Crash Course Visit to Deosai & Rama -1638312
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/motorcycle-travel-diaries/277725-sober-riders-visit-khunjerab-adventurous-way-via-nori-pass

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