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    Default Nissan B14 2.0D

    Hey there guys. Need your precious advice. I have been looking for sunny 2000-2002 1.4 EGI petrol version. However, I have noticed that most of the cars available for sale are 2.0L diesel versions. I never had a diesel car so if i go for one, there are few questions in my mind.

    Are diesel cars economical in fuel consumption?
    What is the overall maintenance cost as compared to petrol ones?
    Are diesel cars a good buy for long-term home use if in good condition?
    What to check in a diesel car when inspecting for a possible buying?

    Any other feedback that you guys wanna give in this respect. Also, please let me know about the repute of Nissan Diesel cars. Last but not least, if any one is willing to sale or come across any sunny of above model available for sale, please do let me know on my cell number.

    Your feedback for above will be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Cheers

    @mods: I am sorry if I have posted in wrong section. Please redirect my thread to appropriate place and let me know. Thanks.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani80pk View Post
    Good days are gone again. Car is in the same condition as in my last post. Some how it has started doing some thing strange. In morning, after giving a full pre glow, it starts easily on first self but right after starting it starts missing terribly emitting clouds of white smoke. What i do is that I press the accelerator right after engine starts and keep it pressed for about 20-30 seconds. After releasing accelerator, it behaves normally. I believe that either pump timing or one of the belts are timed retired causing the problem. Zulfiqar Bhai, your advice is needed.
    check your glow plugs, if one is not working or not glowing correctly that certain cylinder will not fire when cold. Does the engine knock loudly when started cold?

    If I recall your original glow system was rigged with something else and your vehicle was not running the afterglow system. Afterglow is to energize the glow plugs even after the engine starts and the prechambers get hot enough to fire the engine quietly.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by 2c View Post
    its been one year your car is in constant state of misbehaving
    dont you think its the right time to get rid of it and opt for 2c?
    Right you are. But the point is I have been to Multan 6 times in this car and it never turned me down. The reason of its misbehaving is obvious, "my never ending experiments" on the car's engine. Again, if some thing goes wrong, its not car's fault but mine and every time I end up with some knowledge and let me tell you. I have never seen such a tough engine that this CD20 is.

    I have driven 2C Toyota Corolla of my office and found it to be a very good car indeed but not a match with Nissan. Again this is my opinion and my feeling. Your's may be different, any third person's may be different altogether. About selling the car - I am seriously considering this option although no pak wheeler will even call me for same - Alternate - I will put a CD20ET in it and retain it.

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    Brother, believe me, no car can compare to the B14 nissan, i owned one, it was also 2.0D but its engine was swapped to GA15DS petrol. One beautiful and powerful machine. Please dont ever sell it, if the CD20 gets bad, swap it with a petrol engine and again you get a nice and beautiful good car.
    Honda, Sony, AMD, Android, Grassroots, Hiwatt, Turtle, Dream Theater !

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    people might differ, but the corolla 2C doesn't even comes close to the sunny CD20 anytime ... neither the engine, nor the car ...
    Honda, Sony, AMD, Android, Grassroots, Hiwatt, Turtle, Dream Theater !

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    check your glow plugs, if one is not working or not glowing correctly that certain cylinder will not fire when cold. Does the engine knock loudly when started cold?

    If I recall your original glow system was rigged with something else and your vehicle was not running the afterglow system. Afterglow is to energize the glow plugs even after the engine starts and the prechambers get hot enough to fire the engine quietly.
    The preglow light remains on for 7 seconds and then gets off. car starts on first self but starts missing immediately after starting. engine sound was very very quite after changing head gasket but now it sound a bit rattly (not like before though). while running there is very little rattly sound, which remains whether accelerator is pressed or not. Regards,

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani80pk View Post
    The preglow light remains on for 7 seconds and then gets off. car starts on first self but starts missing immediately after starting. engine sound was very very quite after changing head gasket but now it sound a bit rattly (not like before though). while running there is very little rattly sound, which remains whether accelerator is pressed or not. Regards,
    check all glow plugs that they are operational, a multimeter works nicely
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    check all glow plugs that they are operational, a multimeter works nicely
    Checked last night. Glow plug for cylinder three is very weak and cylinder four is dead at all. Where to find its genuine glow plugs?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani80pk View Post
    Checked last night. Glow plug for cylinder three is very weak and cylinder four is dead at all. Where to find its genuine glow plugs?
    get a set of genuine HTK brand glow plugs, easily available at Plaza market, be sure to match your old plugs voltage to the new ones,

    If your old plugs are very carboned up buy a drill bit about the same size of the tip of the glow plug, cut up an old dead glow plug and weld the drill bit onto it so its about the same size as the glow plug, use some grease on the bit and ream out the glow plug holes to cut the old carbon out, it will greatly increase plug life and ease start up. crank the engine over a few revs to blow out the carbon dust and install new plugs. be sure the bus bar for the plugs has very clean contact faces for the plugs connection nuts.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    get a set of genuine HTK brand glow plugs, easily available at Plaza market, be sure to match your old plugs voltage to the new ones,

    If your old plugs are very carboned up buy a drill bit about the same size of the tip of the glow plug, cut up an old dead glow plug and weld the drill bit onto it so its about the same size as the glow plug, use some grease on the bit and ream out the glow plug holes to cut the old carbon out, it will greatly increase plug life and ease start up. crank the engine over a few revs to blow out the carbon dust and install new plugs. be sure the bus bar for the plugs has very clean contact faces for the plugs connection nuts.
    HTK were not available. I have got EIKO brand glow plugs, which are apparently made in japan as displayed in its packing. Didn't matched voltage and I am told that all CD20 engines share same glow plugs. The ones I bought are 11V. Will install them tonight and let you know the outcome. Regards.

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    Default ecu and speedometer for sell


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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani80pk View Post
    HTK were not available. I have got EIKO brand glow plugs, which are apparently made in japan as displayed in its packing. Didn't matched voltage and I am told that all CD20 engines share same glow plugs. The ones I bought are 11V. Will install them tonight and let you know the outcome. Regards.
    he is not going to reply
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/sit...-modding-might
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/sit...luable-loss-pw
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/sit...182284-modding
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/rec...183298-modding
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/sit...min-moderators

    good luck for future

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    One of the bolts clamping the head of my car got broken due to over torque and i doubt that pressure is leaking from head gasket as I can see bubbles in radiator while engine is on. Please advise the procedure of bringing out the broken bolt from head and any repercussions of driving car in this state, which I am doing so.

    For your reference there is no overheating whatsoever and temp needle remains at half or just below half mark. No change in drive, its perfectly fine.

    Thanks & Regards,

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    I think we should remove the head first,remove the broken part and find new head gasket new torque bolts as Xulfiqar said.Too match work for such a small thing but I believe there is no other way.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani80pk View Post
    One of the bolts clamping the head of my car got broken due to over torque and i doubt that pressure is leaking from head gasket as I can see bubbles in radiator while engine is on. Please advise the procedure of bringing out the broken bolt from head and any repercussions of driving car in this state, which I am doing so.

    For your reference there is no overheating whatsoever and temp needle remains at half or just below half mark. No change in drive, its perfectly fine.

    Thanks & Regards,
    your head will warp if its loose from one end, best get a set of new bolts and a headgasket.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Back again after some time. My car's engine is blowing a bit and I went to get its nozzels serviced. The person there at diesel lab refused to service the nozzels saying that engine has blow and servicing of nozzels will reduce its performance as well as result in long starting. I would like to know whether he is right in his saying. thanks and regards

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani80pk View Post
    Back again after some time. My car's engine is blowing a bit and I went to get its nozzels serviced. The person there at diesel lab refused to service the nozzels saying that engine has blow and servicing of nozzels will reduce its performance as well as result in long starting. I would like to know whether he is right in his saying. thanks and regards
    that diesel lab have no idea what they are talking about, btw is the blowby increasing with rpm and you are positive that the breather system is not partially blocked, and why do you need a diesel nozzle service? are they spraying crooked or imbalanced?

    blowby is also affected greatly by injection timing which also includes that the nozzles should spray exactly at their recommended pressures in the correct shape - keeping this point in mind and that you have diagnosed that your nozzles are duff you might help in reducing blow by refreshing them. - So best advice is to stay away from such labs who are saying that you need to spend about Rs 50,000/- first at his commission waali mechanic shop then he would service the nozzles.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    first ,happy birthday dani
    what about the broken bolt?
    Desi way is to weld another bolt over the broken one and twist to loose.
    https://www.facebook.com/skillgrafik

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skill View Post
    first ,happy birthday dani
    what about the broken bolt?
    Desi way is to weld another bolt over the broken one and twist to loose.
    O thanks a million buddy. I replaced all bolts with new ones. That is no issue at the moment. Thanks for wish again. cheers.

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    Nissan B14 20D -393115

    @t your birthday.
    you did not check the thread i made for you on members ride forum.
    https://www.facebook.com/skillgrafik

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