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Thread: Nissan B14 2.0D

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    Default Nissan B14 2.0D

    Hey there guys. Need your precious advice. I have been looking for sunny 2000-2002 1.4 EGI petrol version. However, I have noticed that most of the cars available for sale are 2.0L diesel versions. I never had a diesel car so if i go for one, there are few questions in my mind.

    Are diesel cars economical in fuel consumption?
    What is the overall maintenance cost as compared to petrol ones?
    Are diesel cars a good buy for long-term home use if in good condition?
    What to check in a diesel car when inspecting for a possible buying?

    Any other feedback that you guys wanna give in this respect. Also, please let me know about the repute of Nissan Diesel cars. Last but not least, if any one is willing to sale or come across any sunny of above model available for sale, please do let me know on my cell number.

    Your feedback for above will be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Cheers

    @mods: I am sorry if I have posted in wrong section. Please redirect my thread to appropriate place and let me know. Thanks.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Skill View Post
    Nissan B14 2.0D - 393115

    @t your birthday.
    you did not check the thread i made for you on members ride forum.
    Well,this is some thing I did not expected. Thanks for making my day special. btw, I can't find the thread you mentioned in members rides forum.

    @ Xulfiqar Bhai. I have no idea how to check the breather system. Pls tell me. regards

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    that diesel lab have no idea what they are talking about, btw is the blowby increasing with rpm and you are positive that the breather system is not partially blocked, and why do you need a diesel nozzle service? are they spraying crooked or imbalanced?

    blowby is also affected greatly by injection timing which also includes that the nozzles should spray exactly at their recommended pressures in the correct shape - keeping this point in mind and that you have diagnosed that your nozzles are duff you might help in reducing blow by refreshing them. - So best advice is to stay away from such labs who are saying that you need to spend about Rs 50,000/- first at his commission waali mechanic shop then he would service the nozzles.

    Sequence wise reply to your questions:

    Blowby not increasing with accelerator
    Not sure about the breather system
    Nozzles to blame as engine sometimes roars and sometimes feels underpowered

    Regards,

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani80pk View Post
    Well,this is some thing I did not expected. Thanks for making my day special. btw, I can't find the thread you mentioned in members rides forum.

    @ Xulfiqar Bhai. I have no idea how to check the breather system. Pls tell me. regards
    regards, brother
    i follow this thread some times but then miss the pace somewhere
    Xulifi bhai's knowledge and help is fabulous and on the top
    https://www.facebook.com/skillgrafik

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani80pk View Post
    Sequence wise reply to your questions:

    Blowby not increasing with accelerator
    Not sure about the breather system
    Nozzles to blame as engine sometimes roars and sometimes feels underpowered

    Regards,
    Xulfiqar Bhai, waiting for your reply. Also tell me how do i know that breather system has blockage. What are symptoms. Regards,

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    if the blowby is reducing with rpm increase and your engine is starting easily then its mechanically in good running order, the breather system has a screen built into the valve cover which if partially blocked will increase blow pressure.

    For noise try adding some 2 stroke oil to the fuel tank, about a glass full to a full tank, maybe you have a bad batch of fuel.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    if the blowby is reducing with rpm increase and your engine is starting easily then its mechanically in good running order, the breather system has a screen built into the valve cover which if partially blocked will increase blow pressure.

    For noise try adding some 2 stroke oil to the fuel tank, about a glass full to a full tank, maybe you have a bad batch of fuel.
    Blowby doesn't decrease with increasing accelerator. Rather, it remains constant whatever the accelerator pressure may be. Starting is half self in morning after preglow time. When hot, some times it starts on half key and some times takes 2-3 seconds of cranking. I usually do not give heater when engine is hot.

    For breather system, please tell me, which valve cover are you referring. Is this a DYI job or I again have to beat my head to mechanic. If its an easy DYI, please guide me through as I am free these and would like to do it by my self.

    Nozzles are producing ticking sound even when driving, which I suppose they shouldn't be. Thats why my mind go for their servicing. Please guide me in this respect too.

    Regards.

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    Xulfiqar Bhai, I am waiting for your reply. I am free these days so I thought of doing the job by my self so please a bit of detail is needed from you. One more thing. I noticed the blowby again. It is there at idle. When revved, it disappears altogether. Thanks & Regards,

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    Default CD20 Injection Timing Adjustment Procedure

    Adding this for the benefit of all Nissan CD20 users

    @Xulfiqar

    The book says.. 0.79-0.85mm plunger lift at Pump Timing Mark which is 9deg ATDC.. Is this spec correct for this engine? Your expert opinion please.


    Nissan B14 20D -398733
    75% of earth is covered by water... the rest by Jeep
    www.brokenknucklegarage.com

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    ahhh i'm tired of reading this thread now...

    dani put a GA in it (just kidding )
    success is the ability to go from one failure to the next without any loss of enthusiasm

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    This thread is only for those who say Diesel Khappay We cant resist tweaking our diesel engines
    75% of earth is covered by water... the rest by Jeep
    www.brokenknucklegarage.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by akifjanjua View Post
    Adding this for the benefit of all Nissan CD20 users

    @Xulfiqar

    The book says.. 0.79-0.85mm plunger lift at Pump Timing Mark which is 9deg ATDC.. Is this spec correct for this engine? Your expert opinion please.


    Nissan B14 2.0D - 398733
    this is 100% correct procedure,

    btw dani - if the blow decreases with increasing engine speed, then your engine is PERFECT, adjusting timing according to this picture and also freeing up the cold start advance would benefit you in many ways.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by star2 View Post
    ahhh i'm tired of reading this thread now...

    dani put a GA in it (just kidding )
    . I have no plan on going back to petrol uptill now neither I am fed up of this nissan and when i do, I will put in a CD20ET.

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    Quote Originally Posted by akifjanjua View Post
    This thread is only for those who say Diesel Khappay We cant resist tweaking our diesel engines
    Yup its fun . But only till it remains within limits. Some times it gets costly when tweaking without sufficient knowledge.

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    Nissan B14 2.0D - 399268 Nissan B14 2 0D Nissan B14 20D -399269

    What is this thing marked in black square. I suppose its something related to TTC. Xulfiqar Bhai and others your comments are needed. Thanks

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    This is EGR(Exhaust gas recirculatin).Your engine work much cleaner and more powerful without this.Its for enviroment reasons and maybe better fuel economy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    this is 100% correct procedure,

    btw dani - if the blow decreases with increasing engine speed, then your engine is PERFECT, adjusting timing according to this picture and also freeing up the cold start advance would benefit you in many ways.

    Ahhh........A cold sigh I must take. Tried a lot to free up the CSD but to no avail. For timing, I could not find dial gauge and no one who knows to time by it. This wish could only come true whenever you visit pakistan.

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    next time I come by I'll time it for you with the gauge.

    anyway, block the EGR port with a piece of metal to act as a gasket. Its a PITA and soots up the intake manifold and ports too. the little TPS on the pump and the other bits and bobs were for this too.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Xulfiqar bhai - With reference to my earlier question dated 28/09/2011, I still haven't managed to overcome the heat-up problem of my Sunny 2.0D (CD20). As per your response, I ensured that there were not any air pockets in the engine cooling system. Apparently, the engine of my car doesn't have any problem i.e. it doesn't reduce the engine oil, it does not produce any bubbles in the radiator. Also, it doesn't reduce water within radiator. The radiator is also new so there is no question of rust in it. I have also changed radiator cap couple of times but it didn't help. Couple of mechanics say that if apparently everything is clear then the last thing to check is Head Gasket - they suggest to replace it. However, I have a doubt that if there are no bubbles in the radiator then how could it be the head gasket problematic. What do you say - Can gasket be an issue if there are no apparent signs?

    I have noticed that in the reservoir bottle, the water was quite rusty which lead me to believe that the engine is rusted from inside (yes, you indicated this in your response dated 28/09). How can I ensure that this is case? And if it is true then what is the solution to overcome the rusty engine? Will I have to replace the engine anyhow?

    Looking forward for your advice. Thank you

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    make a rig from a radiator cap, a pressure gauge and some sort of pump, bicycle pump will work, you need to cut the radiator cap valve off and dill it to accept a pipe nipple, then you need a T piece to attach a pressure gauge to it, Pressurize to 16 psi and check for pressure drop, if you see the pressure drop you have a leak, find it. If you dont see any leak then it might be inside the engine (i.e. head gasket) - you need to check the compression for this, And keep in mind that the head bolts are not reusable on this engine if you want to follow factory torque spec. The factory tightens the head to the block like a gorilla.also just as a free test, where does the temperature needle stay when normally driving? and when you shutoff the engine, check the overflow bottle, the coolant should start to get pulled back into the engine. It should not be boiling over or bubbling away (boilover or bubbles mean that the system is internally leaking.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Thanks for your feedback - I will give a try by making a rig from a radiator cap, and see if there are any leaks.

    As I asked earlier, how can I ensure that engine is/isn't rusted from inside? If engine is found rusted then how can I repair it? Please elaborate.

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