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Thread: Nissan B14 2.0D

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    Default Nissan B14 2.0D

    Hey there guys. Need your precious advice. I have been looking for sunny 2000-2002 1.4 EGI petrol version. However, I have noticed that most of the cars available for sale are 2.0L diesel versions. I never had a diesel car so if i go for one, there are few questions in my mind.

    Are diesel cars economical in fuel consumption?
    What is the overall maintenance cost as compared to petrol ones?
    Are diesel cars a good buy for long-term home use if in good condition?
    What to check in a diesel car when inspecting for a possible buying?

    Any other feedback that you guys wanna give in this respect. Also, please let me know about the repute of Nissan Diesel cars. Last but not least, if any one is willing to sale or come across any sunny of above model available for sale, please do let me know on my cell number.

    Your feedback for above will be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Cheers

    @mods: I am sorry if I have posted in wrong section. Please redirect my thread to appropriate place and let me know. Thanks.


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    my cousin has 2001 nissan sunny 2.OD
    last year his car faced an accident and since then the engine is leaking oil and several other issues as well, got them fixed many times but all in vain
    now he is thinking of engine swap with a petrol engine
    which engine will best suit this car?
    8th Gen Mitsubishi Lancer 1.3 GLX 2006; 3rd Gen Toyota Prius 1.8 S-Touring 2010; 11th Gen Toyota Corolla 1.3 GLi AT 2014.

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    See if your cousin can manage to get hold of any of these Nissan engines with transmission, ECU Sensors & wiring
    Code Vehicle Year Displacement Bore Stroke C.R. Max. Power Max. Torque Features
    CG13DE K11 March / Micra
    Z10 Nissan Cube
    1992–2003
    1998–2000
    1.3 L (1275 cc) 71.0mm 80.5mm 9.5:1 79 PS (58 kW) @6000rpm 10.8 kg?m (106 N?m; 78 lb?ft) @4000rpm DOHC, Multi Point Injection
    CGA3DE K11 March / Micra
    Z10 Nissan Cube
    2000–2002 1.4 L (1348 cc) 72.0mm 82.8mm 9.5:1 85 PS (63 kW) @6000rpm 12.2 kg?m (120 N?m; 88 lb?ft) @4000rpm DOHC, Coil pack, Multi Point Injection
    CGA3DE Z10 Nissan Cube
    X-alpha spec
    2001–2002 1.4 L (1348 cc) 72.0mm 82.8mm 10:1 101 PS (74 kW) @6400rpm 12.5 kg?m (123 N?m; 90 lb?ft) @4400rpm DOHC, Coil pack, Multi Point Injection
    - www.crackwheels.com - A skilled Dictator is much more beneficial to Country......than a Democracy of Ignorant people

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    Quote Originally Posted by aliusman420 View Post
    my cousin has 2001 nissan sunny 2.OD
    last year his car faced an accident and since then the engine is leaking oil and several other issues as well, got them fixed many times but all in vain
    now he is thinking of engine swap with a petrol engine
    which engine will best suit this car?
    tell your cousin to get it repaired properly instead of applying fixes.

    Apply fix = Rs 50/- RTV silicone on a joint
    proper repair = Genuine gasket/seal/ring/compound on the same joint.

    The difference between both is like wearing a Rolex watch or a Rs 20/- china watch - both tell time but one works longer.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

  5. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by syedadeelhassan View Post
    I have visited a famous diesel lab in Rawalpindi to discuss the low diesel average in my Sunny 2.0D. The guy at the lab figured out that clutch plates/pressure plates are weak so they were not producing right pressure. He observed that my car generates more sound on 4th & 5th gear and it doesn't speed up (as it should have been). Although the pickup was Ok on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears but he has advised me to firstly get the clutch plates/pressure plates check & fix. According to him, the average will be a lot better once this is resolved. He said that if any further fine-tuning is required (in pump/injectors etc) then he can look into it after clutch pressure issue is resolved.

    Other than the above method, what is the way to ENSURE that the clutch plates are faulty? Also, will I have to replace clutch plates/pressure plates & clutch bearing OR can the existing clutch material be repaired? Also let me know your thoughts that how much effect is made on the bad fuel consumption due to weak clutch system?

    Just for information - my car has been driven around 130,000 Km till today. When I purchased this car around 1.5 years ago, its meter reading was 112,000 Km. At that time, I replaced the timing belts but I didn't carry out any work re clutch system. I assume that the clutch system is factory fitted. Can any body tell me what is the average life of clutch system in Sunny 2.0D?
    Looking forward to see expert opinion from Xulfiqar & others guys. Thank you.

  6. #305
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    Quote Originally Posted by capsat View Post
    See if your cousin can manage to get hold of any of these Nissan engines with transmission, ECU Sensors & wiring
    Code Vehicle Year Displacement Bore Stroke C.R. Max. Power Max. Torque Features
    CG13DE K11 March / Micra
    Z10 Nissan Cube
    1992–2003
    1998–2000
    1.3 L (1275 cc) 71.0mm 80.5mm 9.5:1 79 PS (58 kW) @6000rpm 10.8 kg?m (106 N?m; 78 lb?ft) @4000rpm DOHC, Multi Point Injection
    CGA3DE K11 March / Micra
    Z10 Nissan Cube
    2000–2002 1.4 L (1348 cc) 72.0mm 82.8mm 9.5:1 85 PS (63 kW) @6000rpm 12.2 kg?m (120 N?m; 88 lb?ft) @4000rpm DOHC, Coil pack, Multi Point Injection
    CGA3DE Z10 Nissan Cube
    X-alpha spec
    2001–2002 1.4 L (1348 cc) 72.0mm 82.8mm 10:1 101 PS (74 kW) @6400rpm 12.5 kg?m (123 N?m; 90 lb?ft) @4400rpm DOHC, Coil pack, Multi Point Injection
    the 1.4 one sounds impressive in terms of power
    are there any 1800 or 2000cc petrol engines of Nissan?


    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    tell your cousin to get it repaired properly instead of applying fixes.

    Apply fix = Rs 50/- RTV silicone on a joint
    proper repair = Genuine gasket/seal/ring/compound on the same joint.

    The difference between both is like wearing a Rolex watch or a Rs 20/- china watch - both tell time but one works longer.
    he is having trouble sourcing genuine parts for his car plus he wants to convert it to petrol as well with a decently powerful engine
    is it advisable to swap?
    8th Gen Mitsubishi Lancer 1.3 GLX 2006; 3rd Gen Toyota Prius 1.8 S-Touring 2010; 11th Gen Toyota Corolla 1.3 GLi AT 2014.

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    Quote Originally Posted by capsat View Post
    See if your cousin can manage to get hold of any of these Nissan engines with transmission, ECU Sensors & wiring
    Code Vehicle Year Displacement Bore Stroke C.R. Max. Power Max. Torque Features
    CG13DE K11 March / Micra
    Z10 Nissan Cube
    1992?2003
    1998?2000
    1.3 L (1275 cc) 71.0mm 80.5mm 9.5:1 79 PS (58 kW) @6000rpm 10.8 kg?m (106 N?m; 78 lb?ft) @4000rpm DOHC, Multi Point Injection
    CGA3DE K11 March / Micra
    Z10 Nissan Cube
    2000?2002 1.4 L (1348 cc) 72.0mm 82.8mm 9.5:1 85 PS (63 kW) @6000rpm 12.2 kg?m (120 N?m; 88 lb?ft) @4000rpm DOHC, Coil pack, Multi Point Injection
    CGA3DE Z10 Nissan Cube
    X-alpha spec
    2001?2002 1.4 L (1348 cc) 72.0mm 82.8mm 10:1 101 PS (74 kW) @6400rpm 12.5 kg?m (123 N?m; 90 lb?ft) @4400rpm DOHC, Coil pack, Multi Point Injection
    the 1.4 one sounds impressive in terms of power
    are there any 1800 or 2000cc petrol engines of Nissan?


    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    tell your cousin to get it repaired properly instead of applying fixes.

    Apply fix = Rs 50/- RTV silicone on a joint
    proper repair = Genuine gasket/seal/ring/compound on the same joint.

    The difference between both is like wearing a Rolex watch or a Rs 20/- china watch - both tell time but one works longer.
    he is having trouble sourcing genuine parts for his car plus he wants to convert it to petrol as well with a decently powerful engine
    is it advisable to swap?
    8th Gen Mitsubishi Lancer 1.3 GLX 2006; 3rd Gen Toyota Prius 1.8 S-Touring 2010; 11th Gen Toyota Corolla 1.3 GLi AT 2014.

  8. #307
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    Acknowledgement


    I want to say thank you to @dani80pk, @drift2222 for their excellent support given to me, especially Danish bhai, who arranged for my stay in Karachi and helped me a lot with his mechanic, Imran, to sort some electrical things out from the car and thoroughly checking it. I also want to say thank you to the seller, Tariq Bhai, who welcomed me very well and supported me throughout the process and helping me out in registration as well. The car I got is Nissan Sunny B14 2004 Reg, 2.0 D. It is in immaculate condition. I will post the pictures soon in this thread with permission of @dani80pk. Thank you once again all for your support. I would be very happy to return the favor if I be given a chance.

    Regards,

    Mustfeez.
    success is the ability to go from one failure to the next without any loss of enthusiasm

  9. #308
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    You are most welcome and sure you can post pics so that others may also see the car. It is in good nick and my sincere advice to you is that keep it away from our so called "most competent ustaads". It is to the best of my knowledge and observation, intact on factory settings. A very good car. For any thing that seems out of specs, do consult zulfiqar bhai. Especially about vibration. Good luck. cheers

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    @dani80pk

    Thank you Danish bhai for your advices, and ya for the "Darbaar Haleem"
    success is the ability to go from one failure to the next without any loss of enthusiasm

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    Hi every one,

    I am having an issue and thought it better to consult with my friends at pakwheels before going any further. Car's engine (the same nissan sunny) is giving considerable back (blowby) but it doesn't consume engine oil. I have driven 3000km after last change and oil is at the level where it was. Starting in cold mornings is 1st self at one 7 sec heater. No reduction in water infact it is at the same level from last many months. timing of cranck-cam is ok, but i have advanced the pump-cam timing a bit as the engine in cold starts started missing heavily right after starting and it is still doing so and that is my question. Should I go for engine overhaul in these circumstances or there is any thing else to do.

    Thanks & regards,

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    blowby is whitish in colour? If yes then it is unburnt diesel coming out, rings seals not proper due to incorrect timing.
    Keep a cool head and wear seatbelts!

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    also check valve clearance.
    Keep a cool head and wear seatbelts!

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    check the valve clearances and dont worry if your engine is easy to start, not consuming oil and is generally powerful to drive.

    Keep up the 5000 kms oil changes and proper maintenance and you will need an overhaul of the engine when you have grandchildren.
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    Quote Originally Posted by spectra View Post
    blowby is whitish in colour? If yes then it is unburnt diesel coming out, rings seals not proper due to incorrect timing.
    if diesel spray is coming out the crankcase it would first hydrolock the engine to destruction.
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    Thanks for reply xulfiqar bhai and saqib bahi,

    When missing the colour of smoke frm silencer is blue and thick blue smoke comes out and some times engine shuts off when missing except when I press accelerator right after starting. The colour of blowby is white, which I can see from oil dipstick place when i pull out the dip stick. starting as i say in cold mornings is perfect. One thing I forgot to mention that oil droplets comes out in significant quantity when I remove oil cap (on tappet cover).

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    i should have mentioned partially burnt. my bad.
    Keep a cool head and wear seatbelts!

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    hesitatin after starting and blue smoke is a sign of retarded timing. injector pressures, pum pressure and timing needs to be checked and corrected as required. Xulfiqar can confirm.
    Keep a cool head and wear seatbelts!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    if diesel spray is coming out the crankcase it would first hydrolock the engine to destruction.
    one question zulfiqar bhai other than this subject"
    effect of wider and bigger sized tyres on fuel average of b 14 cd 20,
    if one car using tyres of 205 width with 15 rim, how will it affect its fuel average? and how much per liter?

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    Hi there , Hulficar!
    I have a Nissan Sunny cd20 diesel .Everything was perfect till my injection pump began to bleed. I got it out and I went to an mechanist and repaired it. Now I have to put it back and I have to set it's timing . I have the gauge and the adapter but I didn't understand perfectly how to do this job. I read this thread , I find it very interesting .
    Please tell me on witch sign ( the cranckshaft pulley has 2 signs ; 1 is TDC and second is pump timing mark) do I have to set after I turned the crank backwards till the gauge stoped? Thanks a lot!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    yes nark alignment is piston 1 TDC (compression) If you installed the crank cam timing belt correctly you only need to check the crank timing mark - however its easier to use the pump belt as it moves at a speed of 1:1 from the cam to pump gear, (be double sure that the pump belt is correctly installed - 23rd tooth if I recall). Once you are sure, install the adapter and gauge with about 2mm preload - turn engine backwards till gauge stops moving - align gauge to zero - now move engine forward to TDC and check gauge reading.

    All this should be done by first unloading the thermal advance spring - or your timing would always be incorrect.
    Hello xulfiqar bhai ,

    Please tell me if I have to allign it to TDC or to injection mark. You wrote " move engine forward to TdC" .
    Regards.

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