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    Default Nissan B14 2.0D

    Hey there guys. Need your precious advice. I have been looking for sunny 2000-2002 1.4 EGI petrol version. However, I have noticed that most of the cars available for sale are 2.0L diesel versions. I never had a diesel car so if i go for one, there are few questions in my mind.

    Are diesel cars economical in fuel consumption?
    What is the overall maintenance cost as compared to petrol ones?
    Are diesel cars a good buy for long-term home use if in good condition?
    What to check in a diesel car when inspecting for a possible buying?

    Any other feedback that you guys wanna give in this respect. Also, please let me know about the repute of Nissan Diesel cars. Last but not least, if any one is willing to sale or come across any sunny of above model available for sale, please do let me know on my cell number.

    Your feedback for above will be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Cheers

    @mods: I am sorry if I have posted in wrong section. Please redirect my thread to appropriate place and let me know. Thanks.


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    diesels are split into two basic types
    direct and indirect injection

    direct injection have the combustion chamber bowl in the piston itself where fuel is fed for ignition (usually very noisy if mechanical but quite easy to start - and less pumping losses as the fire does not have to pump itself out of a precup in the head)

    indirect injection like your CD20 uses a pre-combustion chamber where the compressed air is forced into a tornado like ball and then sprayed with fuel making it instantly combust - which then comes out the throat of the cup and chases the piston down. (good and cheap design)

    the CDI you are asking is about commonrail direct injection - the common rail direct injection is just like a petrol EFI engine BUT instead of the injectors spraying into the inlet manifold - the injectors are directly on top of the piston head. The injectors themselves are piezo electric units that inject at about 5 strokes of fuel for optimum fuel effeciency and quiet operation. The biggest difference is the injection pressure, the usual IDI engine fuel injection pressure is about 120-150 bar, the common rail DI pressure is about 1500-1700 bar (developed by a hydraulic pump on the engine itself) and the injectors are fired by the ECU
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Zulfi Bhai, Thanks for the information. Just to update you, I had cleaned the pump but still having black smoke at about half throttle. Avg is improved but not much. Its giving 14-15km/l. In morning it starts on first key instantly with one heater but does missing for a few seconds with white smoke when missing. I have to push the accelerator slightly for about 10-15 sec then it becomes normal and smoke disappears. After that terrible heating incident, I could not find time to change the oil, which is although full till now with no signs of decreasing at dip-stick. Is this missing and white smoke are sign of wearing oil. I remember you told in a post that white smoke in diesel is sign of extremely cold weather but we do not have any such conditions in Karachi (this you know). Gasket is intact (as my mechanic says) and i believe in him because car is not heating up despite 50km/ day drive from tower to Aysha Manzil in jam pack traffic. Any idea why is engine missing with white smoke. While driving there is absolutely no missing and no smoke as well unless I rev it hard. thanks

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    till xulfiqar is back, heres a possibility:

    Could be that one of your glow plugs is faulty, due to which one cylinder does not fire up with the others, which eventually does but seconds after starting.
    The white smoke is unburnt diesel, which disappears as soon as combustion commences.
    Therefore, ensure that:
    - all your glowplugs are in working order
    -

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    - xulfiqar - Merc 1974 240D engine rebuild, can u help i pull her out from somewhere and bring to you.

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    first to point to is the glow plugs, second to point to is the injection timing - other than that there is no problem because you say it starts up fast in the morning (meaning it has got reasonably good compression)
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by capsat View Post
    - xulfiqar - Merc 1974 240D engine rebuild, can u help i pull her out from somewhere and bring to you.
    nice - engine, slower than geological time but surely will last geological time. For me literally working on it wait for me to come back to Pakistan.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Zulfiqar Bhai, need an advice. I was thinking about doing something with engine but thought it better to ask first. If I reduce the diesel flow to engine through max fuel screw and increase the idle rpm a bit to prevent engine from extra vibration, would this help in increasing the mileage. Thanks

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    I beleive your screw was messed around with - if you want to reduce fuelling that way - remember the tiniest of movement will affect largely - thats why this screw is set-up on a test bench and sealed. By tiny I mean this screw is set in measurements of 1/32 of an inch - or about in 10 degree increments/decrements. btw the screw works backwards - in = more fuel, out = less fuel.

    The idle adjustment screw that you speak of is actually a residual fuel screw, it should be set in such a way that it does not affect the engine overrun characteristics - meaning the engine should feel to "compress within itself to reduce speed" when the throttle is released at any rpm above 1500
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Hmmmm. Thanks. I will try to work around this way and let you know how it behaves after adjustment. One thing to ask, what should be the indication that max fuel screw is at default setting? What should be engine condition that tells that setting is at optimum? By engine over run characteristic, I understand what you are trying to convey and can check it while driving. AND my question was by doing so, would there be any improvement in mileage? (One thing that i understand is that by doing so, car's pick will reduce considerably. Am I right?)

    By the way, when are you coming back home???? Will bring this car straight away to you when you're back. Thanks

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    Zulfi Bhai, I have reduced the diesel flow and adjusted the idle rpm. The engine overrun is under control as when i left the accelerator, the speed started to reduce. The car's pick has almost gone (typical CNG engine characteristic). The smoke has disappeared (although a very little smoke is there at full throttle). Morning missing is still there. Glow plugs are working fine for all cylinders. AND my mechanic says that do not mess with injection timing.

    Now tell me:

    whether I have reduced the diesel flow more than desirable level?
    If yes, then like I asked you in previous post, how would I know that diesel flow is at desirable level?
    Is there any marking for adjustment of Diesel pump on engine? (My mechanic saying that morning missing might be due to mis-managed timing of pump but is hesitant to put hands on it)
    Is this a good time to change diesel injectors?

    Thanks

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    Zulfiqar Bhai, finally I managed to get things back to normal except a few exceptions. I got the new genuine radiator and put fans back to auto again. Seeing half needle within 5min of driving. Starting is fast as usual. A very little smoke that too if revved hard. Average goes upto 16-17km/l.
    Now the exceptions.

    1. Morning missing is still there with white smoke
    2. Pump is still making noise especially when cold. When driving the noise diminishes but at idle it starts making noise again.

    Now the question is, should I leave the car as it is or something can be done for above two points.

    Thanks

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    Someone please comment on my last two post.

    to all who requested pics, I am so sorry I just cant find enough time to do the job (Taking pics and uploading) but I will try to do it asap.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani80pk View Post
    Zulfiqar Bhai, finally I managed to get things back to normal except a few exceptions. I got the new genuine radiator and put fans back to auto again. Seeing half needle within 5min of driving. Starting is fast as usual. A very little smoke that too if revved hard. Average goes upto 16-17km/l.
    Now the exceptions.

    1. Morning missing is still there with white smoke
    2. Pump is still making noise especially when cold. When driving the noise diminishes but at idle it starts making noise again.

    Now the question is, should I leave the car as it is or something can be done for above two points.

    Thanks

    Missing is too much on cold start? Blue smoke along with missing? Karachi weather is not that severe and if your car is missing in that weather i think timing is way out of mark.
    Keep a cool head and wear seatbelts!

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    Quote Originally Posted by spectra View Post
    Missing is too much on cold start? Blue smoke along with missing? Karachi weather is not that severe and if your car is missing in that weather i think timing is way out of mark.
    Saqib Bhai,I sent you pm to get your cell phone number. Please forward it to me as I wanna talk to you.

    Engine is missing (too much) only in the morning with blue smoke. After that no more missing at any part of day though very very mild jerks are there in idling. When revved all normal. It does not shows any signs of missing when started any time after morning start.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani80pk View Post
    Saqib Bhai,I sent you pm to get your cell phone number. Please forward it to me as I wanna talk to you.

    Engine is missing (too much) only in the morning with blue smoke. After that no more missing at any part of day though very very mild jerks are there in idling. When revved all normal. It does not shows any signs of missing when started any time after morning start.

    Andazay se 1 mm pump utha dou khud hee, koi rocket science nahin hai
    Keep a cool head and wear seatbelts!

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    Quote Originally Posted by spectra View Post
    Andazay se 1 mm pump utha dou khud hee, koi rocket science nahin hai
    cell phone number??? Please pm me. thanks

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    Car's morning missing is gone from last two days. Nothing done but suddenly it has gone. Dead cold engine starts on half self but when hot it takes a second or two before starting (without pressing accelerator). If car is revved hard on upward slope, it emits dense clouds of smoke. on straight roads however, smoke is not that much (I am talking about hard revving). Last night I poured in "Whiz" Diesel fuel treatment 11oz bottle in approx 45L of Diesel. An important thing that I noticed is that engine is giving slight, I mean very slight blow from oil dip stick place. Comments of diesel experts are needed for above observations. Thanks

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    Slight blow in dip stick means lost compression, as i suspected during our phone talk. cold start without missing might be due to increasing ambient temperature. Still i think your diesel pump setting is retired and in absence of accurate measurement, you can do some hit and trial to advance it a bit and see results.
    Keep a cool head and wear seatbelts!

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    Quote Originally Posted by spectra View Post
    Slight blow in dip stick means lost compression, as i suspected during our phone talk. cold start without missing might be due to increasing ambient temperature. Still i think your diesel pump setting is retired and in absence of accurate measurement, you can do some hit and trial to advance it a bit and see results.
    Saqib Bhai, I think so far the pump has been moved countless times but could not be adjusted to the correct position. I believe that without having accurate parameters (the default position of pump, load screw and residual fuel screw) the problem will remain. As you have worked around CD20 engines, do you know the exact factory positions of above three elements. What I remember is that when I took delivery of this car, there was no smoke, no blow-by, avg of 17-18km/l, no missing and a very smooth ride. When I look back to trace the problems, I found that it all started with mis-alignment of pump, then re-adjustment of load screw and residual fuel screw. If these three elements are put back to their original position, all will be well. Now I know the problem but unfortunately don't know how to cure it nor do i find any one who can actually put these three things to the accurate positions. Helpless I am, I must say.

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    the correct spec of the pump timing is 0.8mm advance at TDC - which can only be achieved with a dial gauge. The blow that you see is because the timing is retarded hence the piston rings are not sealing fully to the cylinders - because of slow pressure buildup from combustion. The engine will also consume engine oil very quickly if run like this. This blow is what our mechanics say is a "DEAD ENGINE" and overhaul the damn thing - to still have the same amount of blow again
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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